|341 forum posts|
Need to fuel proof my firewall and tank bay on my new model anybody have any tips on what to use besides the fuel proofers from the model shops (not sure they do what they do and are overpriced )For instance does varnish etc do the same job.I am sure there is some think out there that will fuel proof my model just has good has the commercial ones?
|31 forum posts|
Thinned epoxy finishing resin,totally fuel proof and easy to apply.Thin with a little meths and it brushes easily.
|Don Fry||11/10/2016 12:24:21|
3487 forum posts
Or even better use a 4 inch foam roller. Rollers straight to bin on completion.
|Richard Wood||11/10/2016 13:29:02|
1079 forum posts
A tank bay I once coated in polyurethane varnish 'pickled' a little from 5% glow fuel
As said above - epoxy resin is a very good fuelproofer & the finishing types are
Edited By Richard Wood on 11/10/2016 13:29:41
|Tim Flyer||11/10/2016 14:21:48|
967 forum posts
I would second epoxy. Polyurethane is particularly unsuitable if you use high nitro fuels, even on 5% it will eventually deteriorate.
|Tim Flyer||11/10/2016 14:28:12|
967 forum posts
One thing to remember with epoxy is that it often yellows in sunlight. If you are painting visible fuselage areas too its best to use the expensive clear coat two pack paints. . On my ARTFs I normally just epoxy everything under the cowling and tank bay plus inside and outside the firewall. It's easy to make an extender for your paintbrush if needed from an old bit of bamboo so you can reach into the fuselage.
|Rick Tee||12/10/2016 07:11:16|
297 forum posts
Exterior polyurethane varnish is completely fuel proof, apply 4 coats thinned 50% with white spirit 2hrs between coats and at least 4 days cure time. It does have a brown hue so only use inside the model. If you have had polyurethane pickle then I would suspect something was on the surface before you coated it or you're using water based which is not fuel proof.
|Engine Doctor||12/10/2016 09:25:00|
2207 forum posts
Hi try Clearcoat . I can thoroughly recommend it . It's made by the solar film people and it's very good. Â I have tried all sorts of varnishes ,epoxy and two packs but now only use Clearcoat as it easy to use straight from the tin doesn't discolour and also easy to clean off with cellulose thinners if spilt. Use it on any areas that might get fuel contamination. Use it Â before covering the model especially the engine bay, fuel tank bay and around u/c mounts etc . It's not very expensive goes a long way almost importantly , it works . It will also seal and improve the adhesion of your covering material and really does prevent any fuel creeping under covering. The only down side to it is that it has a strong smell when drying but does dry pretty quickly. Leave to dry overnight before covering . It can be thinned Â by up to 10% without affecting it's performance . I use cellulose to thin it and have not had any problems. I use a thinned coat and allow to soak into any wood then a full strength coat . Hope this helps.
|Engine Doctor||12/10/2016 11:07:34|
2207 forum posts
I forgot to say that Clearcoat also works well against higher nitro fuels. I used it on a kyosho Majestic ARTF that powered by a YS 63 running on 20% nitro . It now ten years old , looks good and still not fuel soaked.
|Tim Flyer||12/10/2016 13:13:12|
967 forum posts
Beg to differ Rick . I have found exterior polyurethane to be merely "fuel resistant" . In fuel soaked areas especially high nitro it can produce sticky goo. I certainly would not use it in engine bays. It also adds no extra strength like epoxy which cures hard and soaks into wood. Personally I use west systems 105 epoxy as I have a lot of experience using it on boats and it is a top quality product. Clearcoat would be good or any other 2 pack epoxy paint.
Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 12/10/2016 13:15:04
|chris larkins||12/10/2016 14:03:52|
180 forum posts
I would second the use of epoxy finishing resin, on several models I have mixed in a VERY small amount of black paint and it then dries just like a coat of paint but still gives a tough fuel proof finish
|Martin McIntosh||13/10/2016 19:58:59|
2795 forum posts
I agree that internally epoxy is by far the best, but what about the rest of the model? It can be used but for a good finish requires spraying on. Since the demise of Tufkote I have been searching for an alternative. A club mate of mine who is also a painter suggested Sadolin PV67 which is used for pub bar tops. I got hold of some. It comes in 1ltr tins, it smells the same, brushes on, gets mixed with hardener and dries very quickly in the same way as Tufkote. As far as I can see they are one and the same thing.
A bit expensive but you get an awful lot of it for your money.
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!