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Seagull Hurricane

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neil martin 123/09/2018 11:54:34
14 forum posts
9 photos
Looking good Tim. I'd be interested in seeing a pic of your Mick Reeves instrument panel if you get a chance. Mine is almost ready to maiden. If we get a few nice calm days in September I reckon it'll be done! I did some mods to mine, like reducing the height of the canopy and flairing wing roots to meet the cowling. I'll add some pictures to show mine as it currently stands. Still need a better warbird spinner to replace the rubbish seagull one. Engine is a Roto 35vi which is now run in and ready for flight....just wish I could change the colour of the head!!! Any ideas anyone, I'm thinking the safest option is to have it reanodised in silver? Ron, I had the seagull radial rocket and it was lovely to fly but a bit of a sod to land on longish grass as it kept nosing over. I replaced my landing gear as once the standard wire bends it's hard to stop it bending back on a hard landing...unless of course you fly off tarmac. Great little plane though and the flaps slow it down lovely. Now....how to add photos to this thread, any advice as can't see an attachment link!?

Edited By neil martin 1 on 23/09/2018 11:54:50

Jon - Laser Engines23/09/2018 11:54:51
4031 forum posts
154 photos

this thread is a bad influence. its got me looking longingly at my half finished DB hurricane in the corner of my room and pondering engine choices again

Ron Gray23/09/2018 13:06:26
1050 forum posts
273 photos

@Neil - slightly off the topic of this thread but in answer to your question, I think they must have changed the landing gear design at some point but I agree that if it does bend then that will be a weak point for future. Having said that, if the landing is so hard to bend the gear then I suspect that there will be a lot more damage than just bent gear! I fly off tarmac or grass but the RR really looks good coming down onto the grass (it also acts as a brake!). I’ve only flown it 7 times but haven’t had a nose over (yet!).

neil martin 123/09/2018 14:21:54
14 forum posts
9 photos

Solved it....

20180401_225822.jpg20180401_224842.jpg20180401_224740.jpg20180401_224721.jpg20180401_224703.jpg

Edited By neil martin 1 on 23/09/2018 14:22:32

Tim Flyer23/09/2018 14:39:13
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800 forum posts
126 photos

49c069b4-e16d-4da9-9110-e5cce9199bea.jpegLooks great Neil . I can see what you mean by the flairing of Wing roots. Did you add the oil cooler? It seems quite big and plastic and might easily break . I’m wondering whether to miss it out as it will certainly be vulnerable. I have spent today getting the cowl sorted . I cut out the exhaust exits to aid ventilation and did needle valve etc. I’m not sure how much reinforcement I will do with glassed epoxy in the cowl as the vulnerable bit can’t be reinforced as it needs to fit closely on the wing . Next I might fit the wheel covers . I will probably use large zip ties rather than the steel hose clamps in the kit. Here is my cowl cutout out to help those contemplating the same kit .

Tim Flyer23/09/2018 14:44:03
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800 forum posts
126 photos

By the Way Neil. On Mick Reeves Hurricane instrument panel I “ cheated “ and just used the centre bit to cover the Seagull “Vauhall style “ digital instrument cluster , so didn’t add a complete set . I will add a cockpit picture

Tim Flyer23/09/2018 14:55:52
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800 forum posts
126 photos

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Tim Flyer23/09/2018 14:56:22
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800 forum posts
126 photos

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neil martin 124/09/2018 12:49:01
14 forum posts
9 photos

Like the cockpit, the dials look so much better than I expected.

I have epoxied the oil cooler in place, it is pretty sturdy on there and can only see if being damaged if the gear doesn't come down and a belly land is required. Fingers crossed that doesn't happen!

I also used large zip ties to secure the gear doors, although they seem to twist and I expect they will turn when the wind gets to them in flight. Need to lock their position somehow, but not thought of that solution yet.

Jon - Laser Engines24/09/2018 13:14:44
4031 forum posts
154 photos

They really look the part once assembled dont they. Very nice!

Tim, you have you fit the radiator under the wing. Its just not a hurricane without it. The small carby intake is probably less critical but the big old rad has to go on

Tim Flyer24/09/2018 14:19:13
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800 forum posts
126 photos

Cheers chaps . The oil cooler will go on now and I will epoxy it after light sanding the covering. Regarding gear doors . I also used zip ties rather than the old metal jubilee “hose clips” supplied . However I agree that they are too twisty. I will make small but about 1cm wide aluminium bolt on straps out of some thin plate I have . I did that on my P47 and it worked ( photo to be added later) . These are easy to make and reduce twisting and look way better . I will leave the zip ties in while I fix them to hold all in place .

Tim Flyer24/09/2018 22:58:50
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800 forum posts
126 photos

c2dca6e2-26ea-4239-8485-18590b74e8ca.jpegHere are my wheel brackets made tonight and fitted . Made from .03” Aluminium sheet. And secured with modelfixings.co.uk M2 bolts. I roughen the oleo legs before tightening the straps and use thread lock on them . The gear doors are now totally stiff and won’t turn in wind/ grass. I left the zip ties on while fixing and drilling the gear doors . That made it easy. I will grind off excess bolt length later. 90b2fed0-a417-4dbf-8dd2-2b2c805f904d.jpeg

neil martin 125/09/2018 13:13:34
14 forum posts
9 photos

Wheel brackets look good, will make some for mine. Do the wheels miss the brackets once the Oleo's are fully compressed?

On rcgroups "seagull hurricane" page, a guy says that when the Oleos compress, the wheels can hit the gear which causes a nose over. He stated that he had to angle his gear forward to also help, I have already added a 1/8th piece of packing, hope that will be enough.

Jon - Laser Engines25/09/2018 13:56:00
4031 forum posts
154 photos

one thing you could try is to crank the axles a little as well. This gives the wheel better clearance to the leg and its scale (see photo).

I was going to recommend an 8th under the rear u/c mount as hurricanes have very vertical legs if scale. One thing that can help is slowly make the model more and more tail heavy, with a corresponding reduction in elevator rate, until you get the best balance of flight and ground performance. Many of my models are 'tail heavy' but fly very well and are not at all prone to spins unless abused. Clearly dont go mad with this, but a great many models have very conservative c/g positions on the plans and excessive rates recommended so i move both.

Tim Flyer25/09/2018 14:28:30
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800 forum posts
126 photos

Hi Neil funny you mentioned that . I was just thinking today that I would dremmel a bit out to ensure clearance at full travel , and is important otherwise the wheels might force the gear doors out of position when taxiing on our bumpy strip. . My Permagrit Dremmel drill piece will make that easy and I won’t have to undo anything. You might have also noticed I also left the top zip tie on that was partly as it’s not very visible plus will be a slight shock absorber if they get caught in long grass. Cheers Jon I have already angled the wheels forward by 1/8” with a ply fillet under the rear of each retract unit.

Edited By Tim Flyer on 25/09/2018 14:31:57

Edited By Tim Flyer on 25/09/2018 14:32:12

Tim Flyer26/09/2018 10:35:16
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800 forum posts
126 photos

One other thing I wondered is whether to bother with the landing lights . I will install the bulbs and wires and covers but I don’t think they are worth connecting. I will be adding a good extra coat of clearcoat fuel proofing too in the landing gear bay as it could easily act as an oil trap given that the wheel bays on the Hurricane are set close together and straight behind the engine. I cut an extra 10mm or so from the gear doors’ axle slot last night to allow for full wheel travel. I also started colour coding the servo wires to make assembling at the field easy. I am using coloured insulating tape flags secured with small zip ties on the wires.

Edited By Tim Flyer on 26/09/2018 10:36:36

Jon - Laser Engines26/09/2018 12:04:40
4031 forum posts
154 photos

You can always hook up the lights at a later date Tim. As long as the wires are accessible its easy enough.

Tim Flyer26/09/2018 12:57:54
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800 forum posts
126 photos

Cheers Jon agreed. I put then in on the P47 and even when on were not very noticeable. After finishing wiring and locating the receiver and clearcoating, I have to balance it . That will govern position of my three batteries ( two for RX and one retract) . . I’m going to try a balancing cradle this time.

Ron Gray26/09/2018 13:33:46
1050 forum posts
273 photos

@Tim - servo connections - that's where S-Bus comes in handy, on the RR, 4 wing servos, 1 Rx connection!

Sbus.jpg

Jon - Laser Engines26/09/2018 14:04:29
4031 forum posts
154 photos
Posted by Tim Flyer on 26/09/2018 12:57:54:

I put then in on the P47 and even when on were not very noticeable.

You just need to stop flying in the day :D

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