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Fusion 360 for modellers

A beginners guide to Fusion 360 for 3D printing

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Graham R28/03/2017 22:17:59
325 forum posts
24 photos

Hi Bob,

Have enjoyed working through your 1st 2 designs. I've been wondering how does the printer cope with the small overhang when printing the groove on the bottom of the saddle clamp?

A couple of designs worth looking at -

Servo wing frames

A receiver holder with external mounting lugs and arial guides.

BobW29/03/2017 11:15:25
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42 forum posts
23 photos

Hi Graham. I've not had a problem with the printer and overhangs like that. So long as it's been a curve that's part of a full circle it's been ok up to maybe 10mm dia. I've tried it at around 30mm dia but the top underside has been a bit raggy, not unusable but not as it should be. I think you'd have to build some sort of central support in it that could be cut away after printing but then you would have the problem of cleaning it up so you're probably no better off. The same would apply with putting holes in vertical parts. In some of the things I've done I've put a recess to hold a nut for a bolt to go in and the same there so long as the nut corner is at the top rather than a flat.

Servo wing frames - what size servos? I suppose it doesn't matter as the sizes can be adjusted for whatever you've got and I suppose the same with a receiver holder. I'll give those some thoughts.

Graham R29/03/2017 11:43:49
325 forum posts
24 photos

Hi Bob, it's good to know what things to look out for when in the design process. At present I don't have a printer to experiment with. Thought it better to get to grips with a CAD program first.

It doesn't, matter what servo it is. It's the development and tools that we are trying to learn to use.

Graham

Ace29/03/2017 13:12:18
291 forum posts
17 photos

Like Graham I don't own a printer yet and am trying to get my head around the modeling bit first - challenging for an average age modeler wink

What about a dummy cylinder? I guess you would have to print halves to build the fins vertically and then somehow curved sections between for the barrel, a square base and honeycomb center to reduce filament/weight? Getting way ahead of myself now.

Appreciate the effort BW yes

BobW29/03/2017 14:15:18
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42 forum posts
23 photos

Hi, I've done dummy cylinders in two ways. I decided to do some for my Flair Baronette triplane, I reckoned I could get 3 dangling below the part cowl so made them as you thought by drawing out the full cylinder and splitting it vertically, printing two halves and gluing them together, also added the valve gear on the top along with the weirdly curved inlet manifold (a pig to draw). I got 3 all made then spent half a day kicking myself as I couldn't fit them cos the engine silencer was in the way!!! Ah well. Also done it the other way by printing individual fin disks and stacking them on top of the other engine parts and each other, a much better result. See my pic of the Mills 0.75 electric in the Show us your 3d prints thread. But yes a dummy cylinders might also be another good project.

onetenor29/03/2017 15:00:27
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1901 forum posts

If you log onto Aeromodeller forum you can see what the guys are doing on there including a working /moving engine

Ian Jones10/04/2017 20:03:05
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3219 forum posts
1397 photos

This is all good stuff, now I've got my 3d printer setup in it's new location I'll be catching with it all.

Ian Jones20/05/2017 13:54:26
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3219 forum posts
1397 photos
Posted by BobW on 12/03/2017 17:24:13:

Well I've got step 2 finished. That took a bit more time than I thought and for some reason I can't edit my original post to add it there!!!! If you're reading this Ian, any thoughts?

Bob,

Sorry I missed this one, you probably know by now that posts are only editable for a short period, 15 mins I think.

 

I'm finally getting around to closely following your tutorials but I can only get guide3 to open, the others return:

"Sorry, the file you have requested does not exist.

Make sure that you have the correct URL and that the file existed."

 

Edited By Ian Jones on 20/05/2017 13:54:48

BobW20/05/2017 15:19:33
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42 forum posts
23 photos

hi Ian

What I was wanting was to have the first post with all the guides on it and add to it as and when I completed them but it doesn't seem to work like that. When I realised I'd made a couple of simple mistakes and corrected them and resaved the file the link then goes dead. So you need to look for my last post about the guides, currently on the end of page 1, and all the guides are there. What I should have done is have a link to a folder on Google Drive and I could have done what I was wanting. Hope this helps

Bob

Ian Jones07/08/2017 17:42:40
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3219 forum posts
1397 photos
Posted by BobW on 20/05/2017 15:19:33:

hi Ian

What I was wanting was to have the first post with all the guides on it and add to it as and when I completed them but it doesn't seem to work like that. When I realised I'd made a couple of simple mistakes and corrected them and resaved the file the link then goes dead. So you need to look for my last post about the guides, currently on the end of page 1, and all the guides are there. What I should have done is have a link to a folder on Google Drive and I could have done what I was wanting. Hope this helps

Bob

Hi Bob, Sorry I missed this post and thank you, I'll have a look at page 1.

Graham R27/10/2017 21:06:32
325 forum posts
24 photos

This thread has gone quiet for a while. just wondering how you all are getting on with fusion and 3d printing?

Nev22/01/2018 20:17:38
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592 forum posts
221 photos

Hi. Wonder if anybody can help.

I’m trying to design a spinner whilst learning Fusion 360 at the same time (thanks for the early lessons BobW very useful). It’s a basic straight sided cone shape which I created by lofting between 2 circles to form the cone then lofted a smaller cone on the inside to hollow it out. I had to fill in the base again but that’s done and this is where I’m at.

bdfb6658-2f56-46b4-8fba-366979fd2587.jpeg

I want the top part of the cone to be a thin walled shell which will fit over the base but to get it seamless I need to create a step in the base, hopefully the sketch will explain.

dscf1733.jpg

For the life of me I cannot find a way to create the step. I tried lofting a small section again but it doesn’t work. I’m not even sure what you call the operation to be able to look it up. All I can think to do is to slice up my cone into various ring sections, get them the correct diameter and then try and assemble them together again. But that seems like an awful lot of work for what is supposed to be 3D CAD software.

There must be an easier way.

Thanks. Nev

Andy Meade22/01/2018 20:42:20
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2748 forum posts
709 photos
If it was Solidworks, I'd create a revolved cut within the top cone to accept step. Not sure if you have that function though?

As with most solid modelling, there is more than one way to skin a cat. The other option that pops to mind would be to mate the two together, and with the feature in one part, perform a boolean cut to create the mating feature.
Trevor Rushton22/01/2018 22:17:59
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458 forum posts
181 photos

Nev

I have been using Fusion for nearly a year now and am beginning to get the hang of it. I suggest that to get a better spinner shape its better to use the modify/revolve tool.

Start a fresh sketch and select the relevant plane.

Draw a vertical line the radius of the spinner and from the same point a horizontal line representing the desired length. Now draw the outer shape of the spinner using a spline curve to join the two end points. You will have to play with it to get the shape you want,

When satisfied with the profile use the modify /revolve tool to create a new body (important) use "full" and you will get a solid spinner shape.

Now select the bottom of the spinner and use the create tool to set up an offset plane say 15mm from the base i.e. to get the two parts of the spinner. With that offset plane visible now use the modify /split body tool; click on the spinner, then use the offset plane as the cutting tool, the plane will go red as it slices your spinner into two parts.

Now use assemble/new component to create a component for first one part of the spinner and then do it again to create the second one. If you right click and select move you can now pull the two components apart. You still have two solids so to hollow the out go to modify/shell, select the component and wall thickness say 2mm or whatever you want. Make sure that you select the circular face of the component and away you go.

Do the same again for the bottom part of the spinner and hollow that out. To create a joint I would then start a new sketch on the top face of the bottom part of the spinner and create a new circle of diameter 4mm smaller than the top part. Extrude this by say .75mm (you might need to experiment here to get a decent fit) between the two parts. Obviously the extruded bit will not have exactly the same profile as the top bit of the spinner but if you create a screw fixing (like a commercial unit) it should click into place.

I hope that is helpful - if you need some screen shots let me know.

Trevor

Nev22/01/2018 22:20:22
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592 forum posts
221 photos

Thanks, that gave me something to think about and look up. In the end I found I could do it by drawing the shoulder and then extruding with a taper.

a21f8c94-f5f6-4d9b-ac19-ae9cd3347fc4.jpeg

In hindsight it might have been easier to do the whole thing with the revolve tool, I might do the final version like that for practice.

Thanks again. Nev.

Nev22/01/2018 22:27:44
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592 forum posts
221 photos

Trevor.

Thanks for the detailed explanation, I will defiantly give that a try.

Nev.

BobW23/01/2018 09:45:40
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42 forum posts
23 photos

Just back on here. Definitely the revolve tool is the way to go. The tank on my Mill 1.3 was designed the same way.p5010003.jpg

Trevor Rushton24/01/2018 21:02:21
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458 forum posts
181 photos

The spinner question got me experimenting as to how to get the bottom part of the spinner to fit inside the top part; I suggested a small ridge with the idea that you could screw the parts together like the commercial spinners with two screws. However, Nev was trying to create more of a lip.

The answer is to extrude a cylinder on top of the bottom part of the spinner (it will project beyond the face of the top part of the spinner - and then adopt the procedure that I suggested for using an offset plane to slice the body into two parts, but instead of using the plane to select the cut line a second time, select the top part of the spinner as a body and use that to cut the lip. If you make the residual part a component you can then dispose of it quite easily.

If anyone is interested I will create some screen shots - I am not suggesting its the right way to do it, but it worked for me.

Bob I like the fuel tank - did you use abs for that?

Trevor Rushton24/01/2018 21:55:28
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458 forum posts
181 photos

Agh! sorry everyone the method explained above does not work quite as expected in that it seems to be the outer face of the body that cuts and not the inner face. It looked okay until I pulled the two parts apart.

Nev24/01/2018 22:04:19
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592 forum posts
221 photos

Hi Trevor.

I redrew the base using the revolve tool, basically sketching the exact profile I wanted, including the wall thickness and step, then revolve by 360 deg. job done. Then I added the prop cut outs.

For the top part of the cone I am going to let the printer do the work by spirallising a single layer shell, so all I need to draw is a solid cone (I will see if it’s strong enough when it’s done) but that’s why I wanted the thin step.

1e91aa1e-0073-4af6-afe8-35b52115bfdf.jpeg

My only idea to secure both halves is a small nylon screw through the joint, which I may try and refine if it looks like it’s going to work. Hopefully get something printed at the weekend.

It may not be the best design for a spinner but had the idea so wanted to give it a try.

Nev.

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