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Who Else Wants a 63" Lavochkin La7 kit?

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Tim Flyer20/03/2018 10:00:40
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1214 forum posts
231 photos

Front firewall battens and cowl locator.

Tim Flyer20/03/2018 11:14:30
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1214 forum posts
231 photos

Next job is wing fairing down the sides. After that I’m going to glue the split flaps I made onto the bottom of the wing and add edge fairing to them too. 😊

Bob Cotsford20/03/2018 12:44:39
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8243 forum posts
454 photos

I've started wallpapering mine - ok, brown paper but it's the same process. I've got two brands, Sainsbury v Tesco brown parcel paper. I bought the Sainsbury's first, after all their seeded wholemeal is nicer than Tesco's so why not their parcel paper? It turned out that Sainsbury's is an inch narrower than the wing chord hence the Tesco purchase.

The Tesco stuff has no visible grain to it and not much difference between the gloss and matt sides whereas Sainsbury's has both a grain and a glossy side. I tried the Tesco stuff on the tail surfaces using Wilko pva diluted with water by about 10%. It went on nicely, kept it's strength and followed the curves quite easily. I then tried the Sainsbury paper on the fuselage. It doesn't seem as strong when wet and loses it's gloss when it dries. Overall there's not much to choose between them, they both go on ok and will mould to curves quite well. I tried covering the wing fillets as part of the fuselage side, that really took the stretch to it's limit with the paper starting to break up in a couple of small spots but nothing too bad. I've only done one side and the underside so far, taking the paper for the sides onto the centreline of the top.  The fuselage can be done in three large pieces of paper plus a few small odds and ends.

I've stalled a bit the past couple of weeks losing motivation through the lousy weather, I need to get my finger out and put the last piece of paper on the fuselage then get the wing done. I have come to the conclusion that I really do dislike covering and painting!

Edited By Bob Cotsford on 20/03/2018 12:47:00

Tim Flyer20/03/2018 13:04:57
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1214 forum posts
231 photos

Sounds good Bob thanks too for the papering tips! I think I will try Tesco’s on your advice ! I still have plenty of work left with finishing the fairing, fitting the tail and a bit of work installing the wing flaps,iplus a bit more cutting on the cowl but it feels I’m over the peak now. I agree with you on painting I HATE it . I find it the worst aspect of making planes. Plus there are few easily obtainable fuel proof paints. I’m going to use car aerosols on mine and Klear Kote proofer. Covering I quite like especially fibreglass, as to me it’s nearer construction. In fact I glassed the wheel wells and servo boxes rather than using the kits ABS plastic. 

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 20/03/2018 13:17:31

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 20/03/2018 13:18:05

Ron Gray20/03/2018 13:23:55
1671 forum posts
431 photos

Don’t forget grease poof paper as an alternative, Paul has used it on his BF110 and 109 and rates it quite highly. Regarding paints and fuel proof, have a look at KlassKote, great range of colours plus fuel proof **LINK** Oracolor paints are also supposed to be fuel proof and available in a range of colours  **Link**

 

Edited By Ron Gray on 20/03/2018 13:36:20

Tim Flyer20/03/2018 13:54:41
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1214 forum posts
231 photos

Cheers Ron I did bag a few tins at wings and wheels, but I’m still an impatient painter...

Bob Cotsford20/03/2018 18:24:02
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8243 forum posts
454 photos

I covered the fiddly bits first

Fiddly bits.jpg

Tesco on the tail, Sainsbury on the fuselage

Tesco v Sainsbury.jpg

The first side

one side done.jpg

I've just covered the second side and for some reason it was more of a struggle than the first. The paper didn't want to go on smoothly, it just wanted to fall apart. Now to see what it looks like when it dries out. I've used glass cloth and PolyC on a few previous models with excellent results. I think I may just use it on the wing.

When it comes to paint, it will be rattle can hi-build primer and paint topped off with rattle can 2K satin lacquer. I'd better get some new filters for my mask.face 7

Tim Flyer21/03/2018 13:14:36
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1214 forum posts
231 photos

Very good finish Bob . Your wing fairing looks very nice too! I have yet to do that. It looks quite fiddly to clamp.

Bob Cotsford21/03/2018 15:28:01
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8243 forum posts
454 photos
Posted by Timothy Harris 1 on 21/03/2018 13:14:36:

Very good finish Bob . Your wing fairing looks very nice too! I have yet to do that. It looks quite fiddly to clamp.

? I covered the wing centre section in clingfilm and loosely bolted it in place, the slipped the glue coated ply bases in between the wing and fuselage then tightened up the wing bolts. I'd marked the thickness of the fuselage side on the inner edges of the ply pieces so I knew how far to slide 'em in. I used the triangle section (with lots of sawcuts) for the narrower front section and soft balsa block for the rear. Glue abrasive paper round a piece of broom stave and have at it for the internal radius. Finish off with a finger full of filler smoothed round.

One point of note - I scored the ply at the wing T/E position and bent it up to match the line of the fuselage.  A 3/32" layer of balsa under this bent up section brings it flush with the wing underside.

Second point - I didn't use the L/E extensions that form the wheel well on the full-size so my wing doesn't overlap the cowl, that made life easier re the fillet.

Edited By Bob Cotsford on 21/03/2018 15:42:24

Edited By Bob Cotsford on 21/03/2018 15:44:57

Bob Cotsford22/03/2018 16:29:04
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8243 forum posts
454 photos

Third point - I extended the ply base for the fillet right to the leading edge sothat the balsa is supported for the full wing chord.

I gave in and I'm using the brown paper on the wing. I've done one half and am waiting for it to dry before hitting the second half.

I think I got things too wet on the underside as the veneer started to split and lift after a few minutes, a firm ironing seems to have flattened it off again. I didn't have this problem on the top of the wing face 1. I was very pleased with the way the wet paper moulded to wingtip curves using a medium-hot covering iron with just a couple of cuts needed on the top surface.

Wing tip.jpg

Ron Gray22/03/2018 16:46:22
1671 forum posts
431 photos

That looks really good Bob

Tim Flyer03/04/2018 09:15:37
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1214 forum posts
231 photos

Here is a picture of my wing fairing to the cowl. I added extra fillets. 8dc58a42-ac25-403d-9636-e4202c8bd8fd.jpeg

Tim Flyer03/04/2018 09:18:31
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1214 forum posts
231 photos

Here are my flaps installed 4ac35a05-4c1c-4551-8724-268a2c7982f4.jpeg

Tim Flyer03/04/2018 09:21:57
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1214 forum posts
231 photos

Good work Bob . I was also worried about wetting veneer or balsa. I must admit I have gone back to what I know and am using epoxy glass fibre to cover the plane. I am making sure to keep it light by removing excess with a credit card after brushing on . My rudder to which I added ribs ( for looks ) and lightening holes will be Solartex covered. The wings in the pic are already glass covered . I added the flaps on top. Their flat hinges go into a square balsa beem I previously embedded in the wing. The flaps are not scale shape or size but should be effective.

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 03/04/2018 09:40:23

Bob Cotsford03/04/2018 13:22:37
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8243 forum posts
454 photos

Thanksd Tim. I've started putting some primer on and the bp finish looks to be definitely in the stand-off category, hopefully once dry and coated with satin lacquer the finish will look better. Then again, it was a wartime production line so I don't suppose the originals were particularly well finished.

Tim Flyer03/04/2018 13:50:25
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1214 forum posts
231 photos

Cheers Bob . Your covering does look good to me . Regarding finish I think that’s right. As Jon said a bit earlier on the thread Warbirds look better when well used and I think the “factory finish “ isn’t necessary. Mine is also going to be very stand off ....I’m certainly not a good painter so will probably just have a simple white finish with red cowl. I’m putting a simple tail wheel on with a rod in the bottom of the rudder like on my Wot 4. I don’t think I will bother either  with covers for the wheelbays ( maybe later!). I will be trying my best on the cowl though and also adding a semi realistic spoiler made fro aluminium plate on the cowl air exit to enhance hot air extraction. I look forward to seeing the photos of your plane when finished.

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 03/04/2018 13:51:23

TJ Alexander03/04/2018 14:01:31
105 forum posts

Wow. Looking really good now.

Tim Flyer06/04/2018 19:43:30
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1214 forum posts
231 photos

Rudder,jpegHere’s my rudder after Solartexing . It’s the first time I have used that and was pleasantly impressed. Shame they have closed down . I have used the standard kit  kid solid rudder and just added strips for “looks” and lightening holes. I hope to finish glassing the rest and add the tail this weekend 😊. Happy building and hopefully flying all!

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 06/04/2018 19:45:02

Tim Flyer08/04/2018 08:58:44
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1214 forum posts
231 photos

I have glassed & epoxied the fuselage now . Just as a note in terms of weight. I used about 60g of epoxy which left me enough to do the elevator tail plane and ailerons. The glass weighs 25g per square meter . In itself the covering is light but the weight is easy to put on with painting and detailing.

Piers Bowlan08/04/2018 11:40:20
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2042 forum posts
53 photos

Bob, did you weigh the model before you added the BP finish, I just wonder how much weight it added?

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