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Who Else Wants a 63" Lavochkin La7 kit?

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Bob Cotsford08/04/2018 16:01:16
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No Piers. Just after putting on the second coat of diluted PVA I did think 'I should have weighed that'. It doesn't feel heavy wink

Piers Bowlan08/04/2018 21:31:59
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1306 forum posts
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I haven't started by build yet as I am still waiting to move house, hopefully soon. I thought I would give the BP covering a try in the fulness of time as I am not too keen on epoxy/glass, even if it is very tough. Presumably you thin the PVA with 30% water?

Tim Flyer08/04/2018 21:51:16
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737 forum posts
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Good luck with the move Piers. Hopefully the photos will help. If I were starting again I would have shortened the front bulkhead to save all the cutting work I had to do for my engine. I understand from the PVA paper guys the thinning is just 10%? I would be wary of going too thin as the veneer my ripple. Another idea might be to "seal the grain first before covering with a light coat so as to prevent over soaking ? The BP finish does look good and is smoother than glass Epoxy and will probably paint more easily i think. After glass epoxying mine you can hardly see that any work has been done I think most excess weight I have added in the past was excess paint weight. Thats why I'm probably not going to use expensive epoxy paint as i think it will be quite thick and heavy aswell as seemingly expensive. I bought a tin of red Solarac solar film fuel proof paint which I will use on the cowl. Im not too sure what i will use on the rest, but have a few tins of white in my shed. Hopefully I can get the paint properly fuel proof. At least the epoxy underneath won't let it through.

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 08/04/2018 21:51:52

Bob Cotsford09/04/2018 11:42:39
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PVA dilution rate will vary with the brand. Reading the other threads it seems some cheap ones can be used straight while thicker glues need up to 25%. I just added water until I got something like thin single cream that would brush out easily but not soak into the paper too quickly. Too thin and the paper becomes weak and tears easily, too thick and you are just adding weight. It's not that critical in reality.

One point that I learned is that it's easier to do awkward bits (eg wing fillets) as separate pieces.  The paper will shrink and stretch a suprising amount but it takes less patience to work with smaller pieces.  Once the glue has dried off overlaps can be made almost invisible by rubbing them down with wet'n'dry.

Edited By Bob Cotsford on 09/04/2018 11:46:25

Piers Bowlan11/04/2018 04:12:15
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1306 forum posts
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Thank you Tim/Bob regarding BP/PVA covering advice, it will clearly be a while yet before I get to that stage (!) but I will be experimenting a bit before I start doing any BP covering in anger.

Tim, yes I was thinking of getting a Laser 80 but it seems that they won't be available for a while so sticking with what I have (ASP90) and avoiding any major surgery to the front of the model makes sense to me. I can always treat myself to a Laser for something else later. smiley

 

Edited By Piers Bowlan on 11/04/2018 04:30:54

RICHARD WILLS11/04/2018 09:54:38
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Maybe have a look at the 110 thread regarding the brown paper , As you probably know , I have been using it for the last twenty five years and found it hard to beat ,

As Bob says , single cream consistency is correct , thicker is ok , just takes longer to brush on . The big mistake is going to thin . Its way easier than people think.

If you want to get really slick and consistent , try using UNI BOND super PVA adhesive and sealer which comes in a white and red 500ml can . This stuff works straight from the can , no dilution .

The other factor is paper . The cheap corner shop has the best stuff . The upmarket shops like WH Smiths sell brown paper that is reconstituted . That means that when you add water it may tear . The old cheap stuff never tears . I have tried chip paper for a cream finish and it was way too fussy ,

On the 110 thread , Paul used grease proof baking paper . I have seen the result and it is very good . No ribs and pretty tear proof .

I always paste the matt side (if there is one ) let it grow for about 60 seconds then smooth it on with my hands trying not to get glue on the top side . Then iron like solarfilm . It will go round compound curves .

Once the paper is dry , I give it a quick coat of thinned dope to seal it . Then prime with Halfords grey primer ,

Hope that helps .

Richard

Ron Gray11/04/2018 10:17:23
916 forum posts
231 photos

Another advantage of grease proof is that it doesn’t need sealing!

Tim Flyer12/04/2018 12:54:07
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737 forum posts
107 photos

Hi all. I hope all is well with you. I put the tail plane on last night which went well and very accurate vs wings etc so no twists! My next job is finishing the cowl then painting. I will leave ailerons , elevator and rudder off while painting I think as it should make it easier especially if I’m going to be doing a quick “ rattle tin job”. I still look forward to seeing what makes of paint the others are going to be using. I have bought oracover fuelproof red and have a few tins of solarac white around. I looked at epoxy paint but seems to be very dear . I was thinking of white smooth Hammerite as that should take fuel proofer ok.

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 12/04/2018 12:56:43

Bob Cotsford12/04/2018 14:49:00
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7320 forum posts
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I have some Halfords paints, Ford Bermuda Blue and grey primer as per Richards suggestions, plus a very dark grey which I can't remember the name of off-hand, and a Toyota Corolla red from the time when I'm ashamed to admit I owned a Corolla estate (very briefly!). The red is parhaps a shade darker than ideal, but it'll do. Ditto the dark grey and primer mid-grey for a two-tone camo, but again it will do for me. I'm looking at 2K satin rattle can lacquer as an option for the top coat.

I need to add a layer of cloth and epoxy resin inside the cowl and on the oil cooler prior to painting the lot but with the current wet weather I'm losing the will to live let alone build models.

edit - it's getting so bad I can't even type coherently!

Edited By Bob Cotsford on 12/04/2018 14:50:45

Tim Flyer12/04/2018 15:38:11
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737 forum posts
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Cheers Bob . The wet is horrible at the mo agreed! All I have been Flying are my Wot models and it’s like cleaning football boots after flying! I might give Halfords a visit too . I think I will probably go for bright white as I don’t want it disappearing in the constantly grey sky! I was also worried about wrinkles with the fuel proofing and will need to do some bench testing! I’m not bothering with the radiator as mine is going to be a bit “sport “ stand off 😉 The flaps I fitted are a bit “Corsair “ like too !

Tim Flyer19/04/2018 21:08:33
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737 forum posts
107 photos

Here is my cowl with front baffle balsa sheet glassed in from behind. I added flutes to direct the airflow onto the engine fins. cc8fe26f-f6f2-4c6d-98ea-84fec77df022.jpeg

Tim Flyer19/04/2018 21:11:13
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737 forum posts
107 photos

Here is a side view of the air extractor spoiler I added. Maybe a bit big but no cooling worries now! e5ad9a58-67ee-453f-98b8-00da05531944.jpeg

Tim Flyer19/04/2018 21:13:34
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737 forum posts
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Here is the exhaust cutout plate I fitted to stop exhaust oil blowing back in ! a2a5ddf4-f765-4479-b788-ddd516d16214.jpeg

Tim Flyer19/04/2018 21:22:56
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737 forum posts
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The fuel tank vent and crankcase air vent were craftily positioned in the exhaust cutout in th cowl to avoid extra trimming 😉. I just have to drill the aileron hinge holes...then it’s off to Halfords for paint . I will finish the cockpit afterwards. I think I’m feeling like doing Bob’s colour scheme. I have gone off white a bit.! It’s a shame La7s didn’t have invasion stripes on the wings. I will certainly do the red and white striped tail fin and red cowl! Happy building and flying all!

Bob Cotsford22/04/2018 11:17:04
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7320 forum posts
419 photos

I'm considering extending my downsizing as I have far too many models for the available space and my flying time so if anyone was to make me a sensible offer for my paint ready model I'd consider it. I think I'll be putting my TF P40s (Gold and Red box) and Dave Platt designed Pica FW190 kits up for sale too as I'm losing my enthusiasm for this sort of build. I've enjoyed building the La7 to this stage and I think I've done a good job of the construction but the magic has gone for me.

I'm not giving up building entirely, but I need a break from 'projects'.

Tim Flyer22/04/2018 21:06:04
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737 forum posts
107 photos

Very sorry to hear that Bob sounds like you need a break. This plane is a fair bit of work with my limited time and like you I dread painting. In fact after a couple of club members said the white plane looked good I think I’m gong to just get the big brush out and paint it white. I guess as such an experienced plane modeller you have built loads over the years. For me this is my first proper own build warbird effort and I certainly will finish it and fly it a lot . I have gone “off piste” with my interpretation of the build and it might upset scale judges but I am building it for me so am not worried. Luckily my Hangar still has enough room so I don’t have that awful problem of getting getting rid of planes I love and have spent hours working on. Your build pics look great and I’m sure a lot of people will be more than glad of saving most of the work and buy your LA7. I want to buy a Seagull 30cc Hurricane ARTF once this is done so I do need to get a move on!

Piers Bowlan23/04/2018 04:54:02
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1306 forum posts
36 photos

Sorry to hear that you are considering parting with your La-7 Bob - so near and yet so far. I have really appreciated your input with tips, advice and detailed photos. I will have to re-read this thread when I come to starting mine, hopefully not before too long.

Bob Cotsford23/04/2018 09:56:43
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7320 forum posts
419 photos

Thanks for your kind comments. Nothing is certain yet, ongoing health issues have meant that I've been vegetating over the last 6 months and now that the weather is improving I'm finding it hard work getting going again. I may just mothball the La7 for a few months to see whether I can get some strength and motivation back. I picked up a second hand ARTF Maule last week which was supposedly receiver ready but in truth needed a lot of corrective work. A change of focus was just what I needed, another 90 size model I'm not so sure about but it would've been rude to say no.frown

Nigel R23/04/2018 10:54:10
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1394 forum posts
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Sorry to hear that Bob - get well soon!

If you're paint-ready, it can't be that far off finished!?

Piers Bowlan23/04/2018 11:36:58
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1306 forum posts
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Yes, very sorry to hear that too. Hope you are firing on all cylinders before long! A break from it will probably enable you to come back to it fresh, at a later date.

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