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Anet A8

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Ian Jones13/06/2017 19:52:44
3175 forum posts
1378 photos

thumbs up Fantastic job DB, which filaments did you use? I quite fancy trying some of those metalised ones.

It would be great if you uploaded the files for us.

David Bowdler14/06/2017 23:34:34
6 forum posts
2 photos

Thank you all for your positive comments, I will upload the CAD files using the link Geoff provided. The filament is 1.75mm from Solid Ink. The pushrods can be angled if required the rods are 1.6mm dia stainless steel welding wire. The cylinder heads are hidden inside the aluminium cowl so cannot be seen (see photo). I will mod the head at some stage to provide a location point for the pushrod and fix the angle of the pushrod. I am fitting a wooden prop in place of the plastic prop in the photo. I may even move the motor forward slightly too.Dummy Engine Installed.jpg

Simon Chaddock15/06/2017 00:45:19
5140 forum posts
2691 photos


That is a very neat installation.

Given that the Pupeteer is not really true scale to start with I would not really worry about the push rods.

Only if it actually went round with prop would I start to worry about the scale positioning of the push rods! wink 2.

David Bowdler15/06/2017 01:20:49
6 forum posts
2 photos

I have given you some duff information on my previous post it was Rigid Ink not Solid Ink filament. It was also PLA. Sorry for misleading you. DB

Simon Chaddock19/06/2017 11:00:55
5140 forum posts
2691 photos

As part of a micro EDF project I printed this thrust tube and inner cone for a 40 mm EDF.

ABS/PLA thrust tube

The interesting bit is that despite using the same CURA print files, adjusted only for head temperature, the yellow one in ABS weighs 2.7.g whereas the red one in PLA weighs only 2.1, a saving of 23%, not insignificant where planes are concerned. wink 2

It does have to be said that the ABS version is generally a bit 'stiffer' so where shape rather than strength or stiffness are not the primary design concerns the type of plastic does make a difference.

My hope is this exhaust tube will improve the total thrust by gradually changing the exhaust duct from a relatively large diameter 'annulus', resulting from the large diameter out runner bell, to a simple nozzle. In this case the duct area (actually 88% FSA) has been kept constant down the length of the tube. One advantage of printing is of course any of the parameters can be easily changed.

In the above the outer and inner cones are actually printed individually using the "spiralize" option which prints the cone in one continuous pass so eliminating the Z axis 'seam' normally created by the start of each print layer.

At this stage they are just 'test' pieces printed at low quality for speed using a 0.2 mm layer height. For the actual components that will be used in plane fine quality but slow prints will be used.

David Bowdler19/06/2017 12:17:47
6 forum posts
2 photos

I have uploaded the assembly drawing and component STL files on to Thingyverse using the link that Geoff posted on the previous page. Hopefully all is clear. If not drop me a line on this forum and I will do my best to help.

MaL19/06/2017 13:46:32
106 forum posts
12 photos

ummm..not showing yet.. perhaps they need vetting before being released......

David Bowdler19/06/2017 23:33:28
6 forum posts
2 photos

MaL I have created the username Bowdidley on Thingiverse try searching on that. DBsmiley

MaL20/06/2017 17:46:55
106 forum posts
12 photos

Yep.. that works David Thanks.thumbs up

Geoff Gardiner20/06/2017 19:36:30
275 forum posts
485 photos

Nice one David - many thanks.

I'll have a go at printing that.

What size motor are you using with it in your Pup?

David Bowdler21/06/2017 08:50:45
6 forum posts
2 photos

Geoff the motor is an E Max BL 2832/05, I have yet to fly the Puppeteer, which I recently bought second hand. The previous owner told me that the model will loop. The motor looks about right using the British Standard eyeball test.

john kennedy 403/07/2017 09:26:00
19 forum posts

Hello, having a few problems with my Anet A8. Printed off the little Chinese chess figure which came out really nice.

Grandson decided I should make him a Batman Fidget spinner **LINK**

Went downhill from there. It didn't seem to finish properly leaving it without a solid top to it. Think its a leveling problem. The tape ripped off when trying to remove it so put some plain masking tape on which just peeled off when it heated up again. Ordered a bed from Maplin as suggested by Geoff.

Also thinking about one of these **LINK** Are they any good ?

Can someone please explain what's involved with changing Firmwear ?

Is it a simple job for an old git to sort out ?

Got a feeling I'll become a pest with all these questions

Thanks, John

Pete Collins28/07/2017 10:07:47
73 forum posts
2 photos

Just built an Anet A6 which looks pretty similar to the A8. Done a couple of prints from Thingiverse that worked out fine. Would like to design my own stuff but I'm struggling with Turbocad. I've had it for a while but only ever used it in 2D! 3D is proving to be a steep learning curve. Current problem is that Tubocad shows 3D objects as a fairly crude wireframe - no problem in itself, but when I export the file in STL format, what I print is the wireframe, not the 'real' shape. Am I missing a trick, or do I need to buy the more professional version of Turbocad rather than the 'De Lux' version.

Colin Bernard28/07/2017 12:31:28
424 forum posts
69 photos

Have you tried the STL samples from TurboCAD? Do they do the same? (These can be found in the TurboCAD Samples folder. On my PC this is TurboCAD 2016 Deluxe\Drawings\Samples\stl.)

Must admit I was a big TurboCAD advocate but was beaten when moving to 3D printing especially when I found lofting was only available in the Pro version. Almost certainly you will soon find yourself wanting this, especially when wanting to do things like cowls.

I strongly recommend Fusion 360. Reasonably quick to learn for 3D printing, and its potential is mindblowing! (And free for hobbyists.)

Geoff Gardiner28/07/2017 13:32:19
275 forum posts
485 photos

Fusion 360 is my weapon of choice also.

Lots of (how to) clips on youtube.

Geoff Gardiner28/07/2017 13:35:53
275 forum posts
485 photos

Hi John.

Only just noticed your post.

How did you get on with the sensor/upgrade?

I use a different type of sensor (see earlier post) which is working very well.

Simon Chaddock28/07/2017 14:12:42
5140 forum posts
2691 photos

john kennedy 4

You don't specify which "slicer" (printing) software you are using but you have to remember that the STL file is just a standard set of data that the "slicer" package has to convert into the actual commands to control the print head.

The basic STL file from something like Thingiverse has to be 'universal' so it will not control all the 'print options'. You have to set them up for your specific package. Unfortunately It can take a bit of reading the 'help' and experimentation before you fully understand what the effect of each option is and how they might interact with each other.

If it did not print the top at all then in, say, Cura there is a specific "top layer thickness" setting which in conjunction with the individual layer height determines how many will be laid down. You need to check what it is set to.

If it tried to print the top but it all went wrong then maybe the issue is with the type and density of the "infill" that is required to physically support the filament of the top layer as it is printed..

It is amazing how quickly the waste bin fills up with scrap as you experiment. wink 2

john kennedy 429/07/2017 08:12:37
19 forum posts

Thanks Geoff and Simon. Not quite sure what I was doing wrong,maybe I didn't give the leveling process enough attention. Anyway all seems ok now. Got the Spinner made and Grandson gone off to Australia happy now.

The new bed arrived and soon got it fitted. Paid attention to leveling and done quite a few little upgrades for my machine which turned out good.

So not bothered with the Auto leveler.

I will study Cura in more detail re the top thickness. I'm sure I'll get more out of it with practice.

Thanks again. John

Pete Collins29/07/2017 11:36:11
73 forum posts
2 photos

Thanks Colin

I looked at the STL samples and they also seem to be faceted although the size of the facets has been reduced. That would do in a pinch but I don't seem to have that option on my Turbocad, probably only available on the pro version. I will definitely look at Fusion 360 before splashing out 100 quid on the TC upgrade.

Herri29/07/2017 16:21:13
491 forum posts
695 photos

I am pleased to see 3D printing has made it to this forum. I also have a A8 clone.

I am new to 3D drawing and have found Onshape. Its really easy to use, free and you can export a STL file which is then opened in Cura ( or other slicer).

Only downside (for some) is that it is online only.


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