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RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI

Advanced mass build

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Richard Mallam.14/01/2019 10:33:01
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50 forum posts
7 photos
Thanks Colin. Should have looked at threads before posting
Colin Leighfield14/01/2019 11:33:42
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5733 forum posts
2381 photos

It looks as if you are further on with it than many of us Richard, really good.

Richard Mallam.14/01/2019 14:07:08
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50 forum posts
7 photos
Well I actually started the fuselage over a year ago, so it's been pretty slow. However it's kept me occupied and off the streets!
Stuart Rusby02/03/2019 21:19:53
20 forum posts
1 photos

Hi Danny.

I have completed the wings so I have started on the fuselage - problem is I am confused about F6. You were good enough to draw up a revised layout for F6 but I see that Andy has fitted the shaped former shown on the plan and Graham LL in his valuable description of his Fury build does not mention any problem with F6.

Hence my dilemma!

Any help appreciated,

Stuart

Danny Fenton02/03/2019 21:53:26
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9004 forum posts
3887 photos

Hi Stuart, that is excellent news well done. Its not an easy build but quite sattisfying.

How did you get on with the ailerons?

F6 is wrong on the plan, there are however at least two versions floating around, one is a bit better than the other with regards F6.

If you look at the plan the top of the fuselage is a straight line, shown here in Cyan. the tops of F1 - F6 should form a straight line. Try the kit cut F6 and you will see. the width is wrong too BTW

142.jpg

F6 on the plan is completely wrong, mine is still not perfect, and you could tweak it a bit to get it perfect if you so desire.

Let me know how you get on

Everybody else doing okay?

Cheers

Danny

Colin Leighfield03/03/2019 07:37:13
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5733 forum posts
2381 photos

I’ve used Danny’s shape for F6. However I need to get back to this detail and have a proper look, but that will be after I finish the wings. Back from Oz in a couple of days.

Jose L. G.03/03/2019 11:02:26
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179 forum posts
133 photos

Hi guys.

Ab initio I used the F6, as drawn on the plan, and sheeted the sides. with the bulged sides. After discussing the wrong shape of the fuse I`d cut the sheeting at the line of the side door. Installed the new F6 as drawn by Danny, and fixed the new sheeting.

José Luis

Stuart Rusby04/03/2019 12:30:32
20 forum posts
1 photos

Hi Danny,

Many thanks for the advice on F6, I will 'fettle away' and I'm sure it will fit.

The aileron construction went OK, if somewhat laborious. As you may see from the photo I fitted a 1.5mm carbon rod to act as the shaft for the hinges, threaded through a v-cut in the back of the 1/2 inch balsa curved shrouds. To ensure correct alignment of the aileron with the wing the rod was threaded before I glued the hinges in place. Any ideas about securing the outboard end of it will be welcome!

As you can see I went to town on the wing servos, having experienced too much 'chatter' from some cheaper makes.

Following Andy's good example I will fit webs to the wing spars, particularly as they are of balsa.

Cheers, Stuart

img_0037.jpg

Danny Fenton05/03/2019 08:30:03
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9004 forum posts
3887 photos

Stuart this picture has been nagging at me. It also encouraged me to take another look at the hinging on mine. I could nor get the robarts to allign so reverted back to the glass hinges. They have worked out allright, but took a fair bit of fettling

The thing that has been gnawing away at me is the hingeline being outside the wing trailing edge, it shouldn't be?

150.jpg

As long as the gaps work, and it hinges freely then there is no issue You are doing really well though, very impressed.

Cheers

Danny

Stuart Rusby05/03/2019 15:28:31
20 forum posts
1 photos

Thanks for your comments Danny. The hinge line actually isn't outside the trailing edge, what you are seeing is the slightly curved carbon rod external to the wingtip. When the wing is finally covered this will be cut off and 'tacked' to S2 where it lies in a V-groove.

The ailerons do hinge freely and the gaps look OK.

Stuart

Richard Mallam.05/03/2019 15:59:58
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50 forum posts
7 photos

Stuart, Danny,

For the record, I used the same approach for securing the ailerons and used some epoxy to tack the carbon rods (about 1.2mm - hope not too thin?) to S2 using a V grove. They seem OK. Am glad that I am not alone!

Richard

Danny Fenton05/03/2019 16:15:06
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9004 forum posts
3887 photos

Okay guys, as usual I have done something different again.

My two rods com in from either end and I have drilled S1 or is it S2? anyway the rod passes through the tip and links two hinges. Another rod passes through holes in the root ribs to link the holes in the inboard two hinges. This allows me to pull the rods out to remove the aileron. 90 degree bends at the end allows me to dig them out of the covered model in an emergency.

Otherwise what you have done is excellent

Cheers

Danny

Tony Bennett05/03/2019 18:23:54
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5055 forum posts
129 photos

i have done my different to every body i think.

i have used pin hinges in resessed slots cut into the aileron leading edge.

looks to be working ok and the gaps are even and reasonably small.

Tony B

Danny Fenton05/03/2019 18:44:11
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9004 forum posts
3887 photos

Looks great Tony, gives everybody lots of options

Cheers

Danny

Stuart Rusby15/03/2019 21:34:26
20 forum posts
1 photos

I have been doing a bit of research regarding wing-rigging accessories. It maybe of interest to some members of the gang...

I found the following:

1. Prime-Miniatures (www.prime-miniatures.co.uk) for:

shackles, turnbuckles, eyebolts, Al swaging ferrules, miniature 7x7 stainless steel wire rope, etc.

2. Model Shop Leeds (www.modelshopleeds.co.uk) for:

Sullivan gold-n-clevises and Dubro 4-40 rigging couplers.

3. Topmodel (French) (www.topmodel.fr) for:

miniature turnbuckles etc.

4. Tecni (www.tecni.uk) for:

double copper swaging ferrules for miniature wire rope

5. Vogelsang Aeroscale (USA) for:

miniature cable thimbles, etc.

I can recommend the Prime-Miniatures steel wire rope; it is a miniature 7x7 construction and surprisingly flexible. I wouldn't think it would need thimbles. The Sullivan clevises are high quality with a safety-lock, but they need the Dubro 4-40 thread couplers (not metric).

Anyway just a thought...

Stuart

Manish Chandrayan16/03/2019 04:57:58
553 forum posts
65 photos

Just a pointer. The thimbles from Vogelsang, even the smallest size they have is too large for quarter scale. If one wants to make some best is by slitting in half suitable size copper or brass tube in half and bending appropriately.

Danny Fenton16/03/2019 07:30:04
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9004 forum posts
3887 photos

Dont forget Mick Reeves fork ends and flat wires. I have those.

Cheers

Danny

Stuart Rusby23/03/2019 21:48:07
20 forum posts
1 photos

Any ideas about getting the 'Mercury' wing fasteners (or similar) shown on the plan?

Thanks,

Stuart

Richard Mallam.15/04/2019 16:36:57
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50 forum posts
7 photos

Shame it's gone so quiet here - I am nearly there. Excuse the blue solartex, it was all I could source. Soon to spray.

Richarddsc_0329.jpg

McG 696915/04/2019 17:02:01
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2459 forum posts
976 photos

Splendid job, Richard.

... and a magnificent result... yes

Cheers

Chris

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