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Novice Build

DB Corben Baby Ace

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Bill Reed27/09/2017 13:42:03
80 forum posts
2 photos

I am new to the hobby and building more so. I wanted to build a model that I can fly after I have passed my test.

I have already posted several questions about building,i bought a second hand Flair Junior 60 kit which I intended to build first BUT there is no real manual and the plans are very dark so reading them was making things hard so I read that DB kits are very good.

So I now have a Second hand DB Corben Baby Ace kit, has new never out of box. The manual gives fairly good info.

Now,I am no great photo taker and don't intend to do a really indepth build and due to my skill set the posts might be few and far between but I am hoping the guys who have seen this will look out for posts because I will need tips for sure. I think I am capable of doing a good quality of work regards fit etc its just the technical side that will cause headaches.

the kit is very good quality being laser cut. the wood is very good quality and packed great, DB kits look great for sure.

Bill Reed27/09/2017 13:50:32
80 forum posts
2 photos

Last night I started the tail and elevators. Did not go well. Building over the plan all the joints looked good. it was when i unpinned the parts and turned over i noticed the rear of joints had gaps. this did not look good and when i tried the bond i could see it showed weakness.

The reason i think is that the edges of the parts were not square. The wood here was 3/8 and i think for some reason the cutting on the thick parts is not square. The ribs being thinner are great and out thinner parts.

Perhaps its my fault and you do not build straight from box,perhaps i needed to sand the edges first BUT this might make the parts too small????? Don't know.

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Bill Reed27/09/2017 13:56:52
80 forum posts
2 photos

So I decided to build them again from scratch. I managed to save the centre part which has 2 slots cut. this was more accurate than I could make.

So I went out to buy some balsa of correct thickness, not to far from good model shop.

Cutting the strips to correct size was hard to do by hand with ruler and knife so I got a strip cutter to.That was not much better so I see a vid on making a better one. I had some timber so knocked one up.worked great.

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Bill Reed27/09/2017 14:00:28
80 forum posts
2 photos

dscn0386.jpgRather than just do butt joints I did best to use notches like the kit parts. I am very pleased with the results. I will shape the tips when dried and off the board. Probably not correct sequence but again still learning,just trying to keep it simple.

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Bill Reed27/09/2017 14:04:42
80 forum posts
2 photos

I am still learning about posting pictures also! Just realised the last picture you post shows up first????

Also i have still to find out how you can add text after a picture,i can not get the cursor/arrow to drop below last picture!

More of the build when i get time

Please tell me if this build/thread is a waste of time,i thought it might help other newbs if people reply with tips or advice.Also please feel free to criticise or correct me.

Piers Bowlan27/09/2017 14:26:28
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2005 forum posts
53 photos

Excellent build thread and nice workmanship Bill. Love your balsa stripping tool, looks very professional. love yes

You could even make a sanding tool to lightly sand the pieces at ninety degrees to avoid gaps. I usually get gaps, turn the pieces over and dribble glue in the other side, but not much strength in that! blush.

Simon Chaddock27/09/2017 14:43:36
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5580 forum posts
2941 photos

Bill

You have exactly the right attitude to building, if you are not happy with the result, work out what is wrong then how to fix it and do it again.- superb!

After you have built many models you will learn what you can and cannot get away with but there is nothing wrong with setting a standard and keeping to it but building planes is a skill that has to be learned. Just don't set an impossibly high standard too son, get frustrated and give up.

Just remember those beautiful models you see in the mags are very unlikely to be the first the builder has ever made!

Are you posting from a tablet or phone. They can have quirks on haw they operate. From a PC you should have no difficulty adding text along with as many pictures as you want.

Keep going.

Mark Elen27/09/2017 19:45:41
401 forum posts
738 photos

Hi Bill,

For a first attempt, that looks great. As Simon says, don't get too hung up on it being too perfect.

If you are posting photos from a mobile/tablet, I find that pressing return a few times to get the spaces into the text box before you start typing, then you can insert the photo and click below it to add more text. It is really annoying if you insert the photo and there is not a blank space below to carry on. (I often post from my iPhone out in the workshop)

Keep up the good workyes

Cheers

Mark

DaveyP27/09/2017 19:48:49
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206 forum posts
47 photos

Everything you have done so far looks good to me thumbs up

Don Fry27/09/2017 20:35:46
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4412 forum posts
52 photos
Posted by Piers Bowlan on 27/09/2017 14:26:28:

Excellent build thread and nice workmanship Bill. Love your balsa stripping tool, looks very professional. love yes

You could even make a sanding tool to lightly sand the pieces at ninety degrees to avoid gaps. I usually get gaps, turn the pieces over and dribble glue in the other side, but not much strength in that! blush.

Arrrr, but it looks ok when covered. The inspector on the flight line can't see under the covering. Fact of life.

And a bodge is the mark of experience. Not a botch mind. There is a difference.

But to the kit. It is not uncommon that wood is not the same thickness as the next piece, even though is was meant to be. A few strokes with a sanding block will sort it out when glued together. A tailplane whether point 2 millimetres bigger or smaller that specification is not an issue.

Nice skills, by the way. And a bit of perniciousness. Will take you far.

Bill Reed28/09/2017 23:03:22
80 forum posts
2 photos

Not much done today,finished to elevators halfs. these were rebuilt like the horizontal.

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I was not going to use the supplied kit parts for the upright fin and rudder due to my first failure but then thought its a bit of a waste. So I got all the kit parts ready by sanding all the mating surfaces that had been laser cut. this made the parts slightly smaller than the plan but all went well. still drying.

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Bill Reed28/09/2017 23:14:01
80 forum posts
2 photos

When all the assemblies are dry a will sand to the correct outline. The ones I made I lest over size thinking it will easier to shape when built.

Hope guys are viewing so I can ask a couple Q`s... when I put the bend elevator joining wire into the halves should it end up flush or recessed? Also when shaping the outline what sort of gap do I need between fin and rudder and horizontal and elevators?

Was going to start on the fuse tonight but have a problem ,the calls calls out for 5mm x 6mm strip for londerons and uprights BUT this is not in the box! I do not have any balsa of that size to use. Its probably a good thing because I would of rushed in and started gluing . I spent a few hours getting all the parts ready and trying to dry fit parts to see if I need to adjust or move things. I have had to sand the laser cut areas again on all the thick balsa.

Will post pictures of the progress ,out the weekend so might be next week,have to find some balsa anyway.

Jonathan M29/09/2017 07:25:22
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670 forum posts
275 photos

Looks good. Nice to see a new-to-the-hobby novice getting stuck straight into building!

Maybe your longeron stock is missing because the kit was second-hand and the box was raided for some other project? Might be worth doing an audit in case other stuff is missing?

How are you going to power it?

Don Fry29/09/2017 07:56:49
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4412 forum posts
52 photos

Bill, the elevator joiner is normally done the the front face flush with the front edge of the elevator halves. But this is not critical. It's function is to lock both halves together. As the elevator is hinged on the wood, where the joiner is attached does not alter the geometry of movement, which is the important thing. Where you look to see if I am right is on the plan. I assume there is room to install as above, i.e., the fuselage does not intrude.

And the wood you are looking for is 3/16 by 1/4 inch. If you are going to stick around a SLEC balsa stripper will save much stress and money allowing you to cut strip as required. Be aware, strip is normally hard grade wood. You need sheets of hard grade for the job is you are going to cut structurally important bits like logerons. All the short infills can be scrap wood.

Glyn4429/09/2017 09:17:38
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721 forum posts
92 photos

Hi Bill,

Looking very good. Learning curve is ever ongoing which I find keeps me interested. Always more ways than one, and the forumites here know all of them as a group. Very helpful guys always willing to help. Elevator joiner typical photo:

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Bill Reed29/09/2017 09:32:46
80 forum posts
2 photos

Thanks for the help. I would not of thought to get hard strip for the longerons. so learnt new there.

Jonathan, I want to go electric. this whole build might fail due to my lack of knowledge. I am going to build as is and then convert pretty much at the last stages. I have seen vids of guys who convert prebuilt to elec and and went well.I would have no idea of what to change any way,i am talking mainly around the engine bay. things like hatches and battery bays a will attempt bit earlier. I do not even have any motor or cells yet!!!!

once again I am probably going about it wrong but you learn by mistakes and its all practice.

I don't think I got a answer but what sort of gap between surfaces to aim for? don't want to make too small and fail to do covering.

Bob Cotsford29/09/2017 10:10:35
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8152 forum posts
449 photos

I think that you want to aim for gaps of no more than 1mm but for this type of model it's not critical other than for aesthetics. I've flown models with hinge gaps you could spit through, far from ideal but not the end of the world. You would normally cover the components before final fitting of the hinges so would usually adjust gaps as you fit the surface.

In actual fact for most sports models tolerances can be pretty loose in engineering terms, this really is eyeball engineering. Accurately built models fly a bit better but it takes a lot of effort to build a disaster. From the looks of your work to date your models will be fine.

I do like your home-made stripper thumbs up

Martin Dance 129/09/2017 10:49:48
205 forum posts
33 photos

I built a Baby Ace in the late 70's, its still in my shed but could do with at least a recover. A nice model to start a building career. Mine is/was powered with a first version of the OS40 four stroke which provided adequate but not excessive power, Great just pootling around at low level. You need to coordinate rudder and aileron to make the turns look tidy though. The only shortcoming is the undercarriage location which made take offs from all but the shortest grass tricky. If you can move the wheel centres/axles forward by a little say about 1/2 inch that should improve this characteristic. Good luck with the build, mine was a band-sawn kit none of this hyper accurate laser cutting back then!smiley

john stones 129/09/2017 11:35:31
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10874 forum posts
1490 photos

Converting the fuzz (if it needs it) to change lipo between flights, is best thought through before you build it Bill, think ahead and make things easier for yourself.

Jonathan M29/09/2017 11:55:21
avatar
670 forum posts
275 photos
Posted by Bill Reed on 29/09/2017 09:32:46:

Jonathan, I want to go electric. this whole build might fail due to my lack of knowledge. I am going to build as is and then convert pretty much at the last stages. I have seen vids of guys who convert prebuilt to elec and and went well.I would have no idea of what to change any way,i am talking mainly around the engine bay. things like hatches and battery bays a will attempt bit earlier. I do not even have any motor or cells yet!!!!

Bill, the 4-Max link **LINK** on the SB Sport & Scale page **LINK** shows a recommended setup, so that work has already been thought out for you. Other people with more experience of electrics than me might have other suggestions, but the 4-Max setup is a good starting point.

Its always a good idea to get all the components for a job in early. Then, when it comes to that part of the build (and anything else which might be contingent on it), just post questions/pics here and you'll get lots of help.

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