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Mark's TN Hawk Build

Mark's Tony Nijhuis 50" Hawk Build Log

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McG 696903/04/2018 09:58:44
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2125 forum posts
901 photos

Very neat indeed, Mark.

Still following your 'easy & quick' wink job with great attention. cool

Cheers

Chris

Mark Elen03/04/2018 13:13:10
328 forum posts
577 photos

Thanks Gents👍

Geoff, those retracts are the ones from Tony Nijhuis Designs. I don't know if I dreamt it, but I seem to think I read somewhere that they are HK units with some modifications. One thing they are is heavy. 135 g (just over 5oz)each, I'm getting a bit concerned at how heavy the wing feels with all of the bits attached.

I was hoping to bring this in at less than 4.5kg (9.9 lbs) to give a 1:1 power to weight ratio with the fan, but it is not looking likely. I can't recall what weight Tony managed with the prototype.

Cheers

Mark

Mark Elen03/04/2018 21:16:58
328 forum posts
577 photos

I had a look this afternoon and Tony's came out at just over 9lbs, that's given me something to aim at. Tonight's activities, apart from sanding and cutting out sheeting, I started looking at how I'm going to cut the bottom sheeting in the right place for the servos and retracts. Unfortunately, the retracts and the plan don't match very well (I had to open up W2 a fair bit to get the wheel to fit)

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So I traced the retract onto some scrap 1/16 ply and gave it a bit of 'wiggle room'

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The plan is to cut this out with the fretsaw then use this as the jig to cut the sheeting. I don't like cutting with a scalpel on the 'good side' so I may have a rethink and make a jig so that if the scalpel slips, it is into the scrap that is coming out. I can think some more on this tomorrow while I'm working.

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Cheers

Mark

Mark Elen05/04/2018 22:53:00
328 forum posts
577 photos

Hi all,

I didn't get a lot of time tonight, but I made a lot of progress with what little I had. I've been mulling over making a cradle to sheet the underside of the wings to keep it straight and true.

I made an upgrade to my workshop before Christmas of a Proxxon Scroll Saw, but it has not been out of its box until recently. The old scroll saw was a B&Q cheapie, but it was pretty poor. Couldn't keep a straight line, let alone keep it true in the horizontal plane. Wow, just wow. The photos will do the talking. None of these have had any sanding or any other intervention, just straight from the saw.

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The 2 blocks of 1/2" for the tips were pinned together and put through the saw as a 1" thick block. I'm very happy with the accuracy.

Cheers

Mark

Mark Elen08/04/2018 22:19:22
328 forum posts
577 photos

A bit more done today. Finished making the hole jig for the retract cut outs, got one side sheeted and the retract hole cut. It worked a treat. I made the blocks up to be a snug fit between the retract bearers and glued them onto the jig with superphatic. I also used a scrap block pushed onto the needle file to stop me from poking it through the top skin.

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Cheers

Mark

Mark Elen09/04/2018 22:59:10
328 forum posts
577 photos

Managed to get an hour in tonight, but no photos to show. I've got the last skin on the board drying and I also got the airbrush out and put a coat of Mr Hobby Primer and Surfacer on a couple of the mini servo mounts.

I'm going for the Red Arrows Scheme, so the plan is to use Vallejo model air red and see how it matches up to the Hobby King Red covering I got for this.

I also got a bottle of black and a bottle of white so that I can go darker or lighter depending on how close the match is.

We will see how this all pans out, I can see this going spectacularly wrong😂

I'm really not looking forward to the plastic bits of this build.

Cheers

Mark

Martin McIntosh10/04/2018 09:54:01
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2453 forum posts
941 photos

When I got the Ferrari Red paint mixed for mine to match the HK film they said that going any brighter or lighter was not possible because it would just start to turn pink.

The problems I had with it refusing to dry were down to incompatibility with the Halfords white primer. Clear doping over the primer would have solved this.

Hope yours turns out better.

Nigel R10/04/2018 13:08:59
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1296 forum posts
287 photos

Mark, very neat work with the template to form the wheel well, but are my eyes deceiving me or have you cut into the spar for the retract body?

Mark Elen10/04/2018 13:19:25
328 forum posts
577 photos

Hi Gents,

Thanks for your comments. Yes Nigel, the spar is relieved to allow the retract to fit. If you have a look at the build photos on the TND website **LINK** on page 25 you will see similar. I was a bit wary about this too, but that spar is box section all along and i built mine with light ply front and back for the first 3 bays. Without relief, the retracts would not fit as per the plan.

With the sheeting on top and bottom, the wing is pretty solid.

Cheers

Mark

Nigel R10/04/2018 13:33:34
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1296 forum posts
287 photos

Mark thanks for clarifying - that's certainly a tight fit around the retract area. I have seen photos of warbird wings have spar doublers used to move spars out of the way of wheel wells so not a new problem at all!

Did you consider relieving the flange on the retract body?

Mark Elen10/04/2018 13:39:29
328 forum posts
577 photos

Hi Nigel,

No, I didn't, but thinking about it now, I could have set them up on my mill and whipped a chunk off the offending bits.

Unfortunately, I can't stick it back on now😂

Cheers

Mark

Mark Elen10/04/2018 20:58:05
328 forum posts
577 photos

Tonight's little session was to glue the last skin on and throw a coat of paint on the servo mounts. I gave the primer a quick sand with a 1200 block and then gave them a blast. The Model Air range from Vallejo is supposed to be pre-thinned to go straight into the airbrush. I found it a bit spattery, so thinned it a little more. It went on beautifully, they are now sat drying. I've got a little 'fish eye' on one of them, not surprising as I gave it a final clean on my jumper (and I've been using silicone today at work)😁

I'm going to have to take cleanliness a bit more seriously when I'm painting.

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Cheers

Mark

Mark Elen11/04/2018 18:29:24
328 forum posts
577 photos

Some more done today. That red is a little out in that it is too dark. I can play about with that later. The last skin is now dry, so I cut out the retract hole and the servo holes, the servo holes are just rough at this stage. When I glued on the bottom skins, I made sure that there was no glue whatsoever on the bearers, just on the ribs.

The plan was, to mount up the plates and cut around them to allow the plates to sit flush on the bearers. It worked out pretty well. I then ran a bead of superphatic around the cut-out and it wicked in nicely.

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Cheers

Mark

McG 696911/04/2018 18:58:01
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2125 forum posts
901 photos

Super neat work as usual, Mark.

Finally, I'm asking myself if it was a good idea to convince you to be part of the upcoming Fury Classroom. indecision

I already realize now that I will be the only one to 'receive' all of Danny's board erasers right to my head... ppfff. crying

Cheers

Chris

Mark Elen11/04/2018 19:59:16
328 forum posts
577 photos

Hi Chris,

Thanks for dropping by and for your kind comments. Looking at your Vimicote build, you are doing a great job yourself in being neat. Im sure there will be an eraser or two heading my way! 😁

Cheers

Mark

Mark Elen13/04/2018 20:22:52
328 forum posts
577 photos

I managed a half hour tonight. I needed something to go right, as I had a mishap last night. More on that later. I decided to attack the leading edge. Measured the sweep angle at 26 degrees and halved it, then set up probably my favourite piece of workshop equipment, the disc sander. (I seem to spend a lot of time at it each building session)

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I can honestly say, this is the one piece of kit that makes precise work easy. Within a couple of minutes I had all 3 pieces ready to glue on

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The piece above has a 13 degree mitre one way and a 1 degree mitre the other to allow for the dihedral.

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Once it's sanded to shape and covered, nobody will see it......😂

Now to last nights failure. The paint has gone off, but it has dried both too dark and fairly dull. I have pretty much decided to bin the idea of covering with film and instead to have a go at covering with lightweight glass and poly-c. Then the whole lot can be painted and there is nothing to match. So, to bring up the dull red, I thought, 'I know, I'll give it a light T-cut and see if it shines up....

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Well, that didn't work out too well. 😂😂 I guess model acrylic doesn't like T-cut.

I have some Vallejo gloss varnish, I'm going to try giving the other one a blast over with that and see how it looks.

Cheers

Mark

Martin McIntosh13/04/2018 20:55:17
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2453 forum posts
941 photos

Almost glad (joking) that it was not just me who had problems finishing this model. If you want some of the Ferrari red to match the HK covering I have loads leftover. It must, however, be sprayed on top of a base white coat of some sort.

Mark Elen14/04/2018 23:26:50
328 forum posts
577 photos

Hi Martin,

Many thanks for your kind offer. I want to perservere with what I've got, I'm a sucker for punishment😂 But I will keep it in mind if it all gets too much.

Had most of today flying with the Ballerina and the Viper. I'm now getting comfortable with the Ballerina, in that I'm not constantly on edge with it and relaxing whilst I'm flying it. The Viper is another story. I bought it to get some EDF experience, and although I don't find it too difficult, launching on your own is a hit and miss affair - especially today with no wind. I've been underarm launching it and had no trouble....till today. I managed ok whilst I was on my own, but as soon as I had a couple of people watching, it all went wrong. Thankfully, one of the guys (thanks Mark!) helped out hand launching it for me. Thanks again goes to Mark for the Cyano when I got it wrong with a landing and snapped the nose off. Half hour later and it was back in the air. I'm reminding myself tonight that it is what I bought it for, to make the mistakes with it so that hopefully I won't make them with this....😁

Got home and sanded the LE on the hawk to the same profile of the sheeting:

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I used the trick with masking tape to stop me from sanding the sheeting down. Now need to sand it to a radiused profile, not looking forward to that as it will be a bit 'freehand'. All in all, a good day.

Cheers

Mark

Edited By Mark Elen on 14/04/2018 23:27:15

Mark Elen16/04/2018 22:11:52
328 forum posts
577 photos

A little more done tonight. The night before last, I laminated the tips from 1/2 and 1/4 then last night I glued them on. Tonight I've sanded them down to the wing profile, again I used masking tape but this time I also used brown paper to stop me from sanding the wrong place. All in all, I'm pleased with the result.

I used the long bar sander, and found by resting most of the bar along the wing, I used the piece in contact with the tip almost like a small sanding block, the length along the wing stopped me from sanding too deep.

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Flaps and ailerons next. I really ought to get the other servo holes cut out properly too.

Cheers

Mark

Geoff Gardiner16/04/2018 22:52:06
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279 forum posts
499 photos

Coming along nicely Mark - keep up the good work.

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