Laser Engines - Technical questions

The other Laser thread is mostly aimed at new products and questions relating to their development but its clear from the posts that there is demand for 'technical support' as well so I thought I would start this thread so its all in one place.

I'll start this off then ! Can you take the end of the silencer to clean the inside out or is it pressed in ? Ps Thanks for the advise earlier and I'll post a picture of the engines after I've finished cleaning I forgot the worst bits the silencers

Trebor, why do you wish to do this. Not broke, don't fix..

they are pressed and welded. you wont get it out!

Thanks, I only wanted to get the black crud out. I've been soaking it in brake fluid for days now but it's slow going, parts have dissolved but still lots in there.

Trebor, if you have or access to an ultra -sonic cleaner, you may find that will dislodge the internal crud faster.

When mounting laser engines is there any preferred orientation or is alignment with the tank the only critical factor, then ergonomics of connecting the throttle linkage/exhaust position?

What is the maximum noise produced by each engine (excluding prop and airframe), e.g. is under 75db achievable?

Do what you like with it, as long as the tank is in the right place they will not give two hoots which way up they are.

75db is really quiet and not likely to be easy to get down to. We have never tested the engines for noise as we lack the testing facilities to do so and any tests we do would be meaningless as the airframe and propeller used make such a huge difference.

Its a shame the old days of kit built models with foam wings are gone as these structures used to be excellent at absorbing sound. Modern artfs are like drums and its not always easy to keep them quiet.

All that said, I would not expect you to have any trouble with nose as our engines generally have a soft sound which is not as sharp as other 4 strokes that do not use baffled exhausts.

I would get one if I stripped engines down more often I will have to stick with marigolds and elbow grease.

Would you happen to have a parts diagram for those Super tiger carbs. Been looking on line and the info is a bit lacking. I stripped down 2 carbs today due to being jammed up, 1 was due to a small spring inside the throttle body, this one was smaller than the one in 2nd carb and was jamming against the spraybar. Sorted that with a Maplins spring but have another problem with the top needle seal. Should there be a small spring and o ring seal inside the brass thumbscrew ?

I found these part lists where it shows the high speed needle and the spray bar but no o ring seal **LINK**

Hi John,

Have you experimented with different swish bands.

Edited By bert baker on 15/12/2017 21:35:22

Trebor, give Dave at motors and rotors a call. He might be able to help you with the ST carbs as he (and his father) were the distributor for many years. He may have more for you than that PDF shows. If all else fails I can supply new carbs for them as they are the later engine with the steel retaining clips but give the ST carbs a go first.

Bert, squish area (i assume thats what you meant?) is something we have experimented with over the years but its a balance. high compression gives good power but can make the engine less user friendly. We have set a bit of a middle ground between out and out performance and being easy to use/less fussy than some other brands when it comes to fuels and props.

Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 15/12/2017 22:10:44

Off topic posts removed.

BEB

Hi it has J11 0n engine lug as well as my initials

The carb is broken it is a 150 do you still stock this carb

Oops double posted

No any more!

BEB

Hi Jon,

I thought I’d post a shot of the “test fit of the 300v into an ESM Mig 3 cowl. Kinda sorta....

From what I can tell the 300v is very close to not needing any cutting for clearance of the jugs.

I took the Mig cowl and very carefully put it as far back on my Storch as I could I till it hit the front of the canopy which is really saying something when you consider how long and narrow the Storch nose is with the 300v hanging on there.

The end of the 300v prop shaft just lined up with the front edge of the Mig cowl so I had to center the engine within the cowl to see the clearance and it looks like there will be no cutting for the jugs. It does tapper but it looks to clear.

It doesn’t look like there is an extra 12mm in there to fit the 360v.... But I’ll measure more when I start ordering parts this summer.

It should be awesome with either engine

Joe

Do you think my Russian Storch would be ok at a scale event? lol

Hmm.... my photos disappeared. I’ll fix it Monday when I’m on a big computer.

Joe

And I thought it was because it was winter camo’!😄