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Laser Engines - Technical questions

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Jon - Laser Engines13/12/2017 21:48:53
4160 forum posts
155 photos

The other Laser thread is mostly aimed at new products and questions relating to their development but its clear from the posts that there is demand for 'technical support' as well so I thought I would start this thread so its all in one place.

trebor14/12/2017 18:23:24
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1808 forum posts
212 photos

I'll start this off then ! Can you take the end of the silencer to clean the inside out or is it pressed in ? Ps Thanks for the advise earlier and I'll post a picture of the engines after I've finished cleaning I forgot the worst bits the silencers crook

Don Fry14/12/2017 18:31:45
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2900 forum posts
37 photos

Trebor, why do you wish to do this. Not broke, don't fix..

Jon - Laser Engines14/12/2017 18:57:24
4160 forum posts
155 photos

they are pressed and welded. you wont get it out!

trebor14/12/2017 19:02:53
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1808 forum posts
212 photos

Thanks, I only wanted to get the black crud out. I've been soaking it in brake fluid for days now but it's slow going, parts have dissolved but still lots in there.

Ace14/12/2017 19:21:30
239 forum posts
15 photos

Trebor, if you have or access to an ultra -sonic cleaner, you may find that will dislodge the internal crud faster.

Chris Walby14/12/2017 19:55:12
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698 forum posts
130 photos

When mounting laser engines is there any preferred orientation or is alignment with the tank the only critical factor, then ergonomics of connecting the throttle linkage/exhaust position?

What is the maximum noise produced by each engine (excluding prop and airframe), e.g. is under 75db achievable?

Jon - Laser Engines14/12/2017 20:01:11
4160 forum posts
155 photos
Posted by Chris Walby on 14/12/2017 19:55:12:

When mounting laser engines is there any preferred orientation or is alignment with the tank the only critical factor, then ergonomics of connecting the throttle linkage/exhaust position?

What is the maximum noise produced by each engine (excluding prop and airframe), e.g. is under 75db achievable?

Do what you like with it, as long as the tank is in the right place they will not give two hoots which way up they are.

75db is really quiet and not likely to be easy to get down to. We have never tested the engines for noise as we lack the testing facilities to do so and any tests we do would be meaningless as the airframe and propeller used make such a huge difference.

Its a shame the old days of kit built models with foam wings are gone as these structures used to be excellent at absorbing sound. Modern artfs are like drums and its not always easy to keep them quiet.

All that said, I would not expect you to have any trouble with nose as our engines generally have a soft sound which is not as sharp as other 4 strokes that do not use baffled exhausts.

trebor14/12/2017 20:45:50
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1808 forum posts
212 photos
Posted by Ace on 14/12/2017 19:21:30:

Trebor, if you have or access to an ultra -sonic cleaner, you may find that will dislodge the internal crud faster.

I would get one if I stripped engines down more often yes I will have to stick with marigolds and elbow grease.

trebor15/12/2017 19:29:12
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1808 forum posts
212 photos

Would you happen to have a parts diagram for those Super tiger carbs. Been looking on line and the info is a bit lacking. I stripped down 2 carbs today due to being jammed up, 1 was due to a small spring inside the throttle body, this one was smaller than the one in 2nd carb and was jamming against the spraybar. Sorted that with a Maplins spring but have another problem with the top needle seal. Should there be a small spring and o ring seal inside the brass thumbscrew ?

trebor15/12/2017 21:00:04
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1808 forum posts
212 photos

I found these part lists where it shows the high speed needle and the spray bar but no o ring seal dont know **LINK**

bert baker15/12/2017 21:34:36
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1234 forum posts
267 photos

Hi John,

Have you experimented with different swish bands.

Edited By bert baker on 15/12/2017 21:35:22

Jon - Laser Engines15/12/2017 22:03:23
4160 forum posts
155 photos

Trebor, give Dave at motors and rotors a call. He might be able to help you with the ST carbs as he (and his father) were the distributor for many years. He may have more for you than that PDF shows. If all else fails I can supply new carbs for them as they are the later engine with the steel retaining clips but give the ST carbs a go first.

Bert, squish area (i assume thats what you meant?) is something we have experimented with over the years but its a balance. high compression gives good power but can make the engine less user friendly. We have set a bit of a middle ground between out and out performance and being easy to use/less fussy than some other brands when it comes to fuels and props.

 

Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 15/12/2017 22:10:44

Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator15/12/2017 22:11:56
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Moderator
15748 forum posts
1460 photos

Off topic posts removed.

BEB

bert baker15/12/2017 22:33:47
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1234 forum posts
267 photos

img_1772.jpgHi it has J11 0n engine lug as well as my initials

The carb is broken it is a 150 do you still stock this carb

bert baker15/12/2017 22:34:17
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1234 forum posts
267 photos

Oops double posted

Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator15/12/2017 22:35:14
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Moderator
15748 forum posts
1460 photos

No any more!

BEB

Joespeeder16/12/2017 01:13:25
40 forum posts
13 photos

Hi Jon,

I thought I’d post a shot of the “test fit of the 300v into an ESM Mig 3 cowl. Kinda sorta....

From what I can tell the 300v is very close to not needing any cutting for clearance of the jugs.

I took the Mig cowl and very carefully put it as far back on my Storch as I could I till it hit the front of the canopy which is really saying something when you consider how long and narrow the Storch nose is with the 300v hanging on there.

The end of the 300v prop shaft just lined up with the front edge of the Mig cowl so I had to center the engine within the cowl to see the clearance and it looks like there will be no cutting for the jugs. It does tapper but it looks to clear.

It doesn’t look like there is an extra 12mm in there to fit the 360v.... But I’ll measure more when I start ordering parts this summer.

It should be awesome with either engine

Joe

Do you think my Russian Storch would be ok at a scale event? lol

Joespeeder16/12/2017 04:27:22
40 forum posts
13 photos

Hmm.... my photos disappeared. I’ll fix it Monday when I’m on a big computer.

Joe

Rocker16/12/2017 09:22:48
293 forum posts

I have a question that has been baffling me about installing a Laser engine in a scale model.When choosing an engine for a scale model in my view there is only one engine to fit ,of course a Laser.Now I am not the best model builder in the world but I could be one of the worse model builders.I have seen all of your lovely models with Lasers installed and they all seem to be installed inverted so they fit into the cowls without to much sticking out.How do you all manage to do this ? I have a Top Flight Texan and fitted a Laser 80 in it inverted to fit inside the cowl .The problem I have is how do you all get the tank in the right place because the carb is fitted high on the engine when you invert it the carb becomes very low and to get the tank in the right place is impossible (unless you strap it under the fuselage) Also because the carb is lower then the tank fuel leaks out of the carb and trying to get the engine to tick over is a nightmare .So how does everybody fit the Laser engine inverted with out incurring these problems.The reason I ask is I am about to buy a Laser 180 to fit in a Wots Wot XL ( this will not be a problem here because I am going to install it at right angles but latter on I want to put the Laser 180 in a big warbird but then I will come across this problem about installing the engine inverted and trying to get the tank in the right place.It frustrates me because I just love Laser engines .Just need to know how to overcome this problem ,everyone else seems to have solved this problem !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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