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Coming back after 50 years: bit lost

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Denis Watkins16/01/2018 16:38:15
2901 forum posts
141 photos

The screws on the back should be Allan screws, and not Philips

But if it passed a range test, I would use it.

Percy Verance16/01/2018 17:37:22
6732 forum posts
133 photos

911 hillclimber

Please get some fuel tubing offcuts (or some other insulating material) on those bare-ends on the lipo. If they touch, you might need a new house............secret

Oh, and I'd turn the receiver through 90 degrees, but still mounted on that plate. It'll be slightly easier to route the two aerials appropriately if you do that. Remember, they really need mounting at 90 degrees to each other if you can.

Edited By Percy Verance on 16/01/2018 17:41:07

911hillclimber16/01/2018 18:10:08
53 forum posts
23 photos


I've covered the battery connector.

Take the point on the RX orientation.

There is nothing in the Spektrum manual about the RX at all and connections or aerials.

Will get some velcrow straps.

I'll tape the long aerial to a balsa stringer to keep it straight and 90 deg to the short one.

Andy4816/01/2018 18:59:46
1333 forum posts
1 photos
Posted by Percy Verance on 16/01/2018 17:37:22:

911 hillclimber

Please get some fuel tubing offcuts (or some other insulating material) on those bare-ends on the lipo. If they touch, you might need a new house............secret

The bare ends are on the ESC not the lipo. That appears to have an XT60 connector, though it could be XT30. These bare connectors are still an issue, see my post above.

Piers Bowlan16/01/2018 19:26:45
1310 forum posts
36 photos

You will need a packet (5 pairs) of these XT60 connectors hillclimber (from the UK warehouse delivery will take just three or four days) The male plug is soldered onto the red and black wires of the ESC and is polarised to prevent being connected the wrong way round. (a + & - is embossed onto the plug to avoid mis-soldering!). You will also need to solder a male XT60 connector onto your shiny new LiPo charger. smiley Which one did you get?

kc17/01/2018 12:28:48
5511 forum posts
161 photos

The Tx manual is probably only for the Tx as there are so many different Rx available.

Manuals for anything are online nowadays. The AR610 is here and shows about aerial positions etc.

There are also many differnt types of Spektrum DX6 - DX6i, later DX6i, DX6 black, DX6 parkfly etc.... so you need to specify which.

911hillclimber17/01/2018 15:55:50
53 forum posts
23 photos

Getting closer to the detail now:

Will get the plugs asap!

Charger is a simple cheap British one and had 4 pin and 3 pin charging ports, connect to the mains.

Doubt it is shiny!

Read that receiver link, most helpful.

Using my microscopic vision noticed the signal/+/- orientation next to BIND. They couldn't have printed it smaller.

The Futaba servos have signal as white, and the +/- as red/black.

Similarly the cable from the ESC module.

The link also says about the aerials, and a previous poster said rotate the RX 90 degrees on the plate in the plane, he was correct!

To keep the long aerial wire straight and at 90 deg I will glue in a small spar and tape the wire to it.

Velcro ties are on the way. I will mount the battery on the belly of the fuselage once I have added a balso base to give a good 'plate' for the batt to lay on. Some thin open cell rubber sheet on that, then the batt then 2 x Velcro ties to keep it in place. Some balsa needed to stop lateral movement.

Will make the battery change quick.

BIND'ing next once charged and batteried-up, not looking forward to this step, technology and me aren't a good match...

The TX is simply named 'DX6', no other suffix.(it is black though)

Brilliant help from you all, thank you.

jrman17/01/2018 16:11:29
305 forum posts
3 photos

A better solution for holding the aerials in place is to fix a short piece of drinking straw or "snake outer" to the airframe and slide the aerial inside that. Taping is not a good idea as if you have "an arrival" the aerials may be torn out of the Rx.

911hillclimber17/01/2018 16:15:45
53 forum posts
23 photos

That's a better idea!

I doubt I will have any hard or quick 'arrivals'.......surprise

kc17/01/2018 16:32:24
5511 forum posts
161 photos

Most people seem find that the Lipo need to go as far forward as possible in the model to avoid using lead to suit the CG.

As it's a pain to remove the wing every time the Lipo needs changing. it may be worth considering a more convenient & forward position before fixing, depending on where the CG is now. It,s not really safe to plug the Lipo in with the wing off so most people have the Lipo plug accessible from outside. Note nobody charges Lipo in the model just in case of fire.

911hillclimber17/01/2018 19:26:59
53 forum posts
23 photos

I can't see how I can do this.

The lead length of the battery and the ESC are about 125mm total. To get the connectors outside the plane would mean passing the connection through a hole in the bottom of the fuselage so they are out in fresh air.

Pause for thought.

I'm beginning to think the Enya engine should have been put back in!

911hillclimber17/01/2018 22:39:08
53 forum posts
23 photos

Please can anyone post some pictures of ways to have the battery and ESC connectors outside a vintage model please?

Any help appreciated.

Kim Taylor17/01/2018 23:05:21
175 forum posts
53 photos

Rather than running the wiring outside of the fuselage, you could fit some kind of arming plug.

This is simply a plug / socket (say an XT60) which you would use to break the +ve wire between the battery and esc.

I've attached a photo of the setup which I used in my electrified WOT4XL, which will hopefully give you an idea of how it works. This is the inside view and hopefully below that will be the outside view, showing the plug inserted through the side of the fus. You can also get purpose made plugs and sockets to do the same thing




kc17/01/2018 23:20:25
5511 forum posts
161 photos

Somebody showed a picture of a Junior 60 with the Lipo mounted vertically behind the motor which looked a good idea ( perhaps it was PatMac?) then the connectors were accessible. The lead ESC to Rx is usually long enough then.

911hillclimber18/01/2018 08:35:05
53 forum posts
23 photos

Thank you, gives me something to go on.

Going to be tricky!

PatMc18/01/2018 23:21:25
3744 forum posts
479 photos

I've come across this thread then saw my name in a post. I did indeed mount the lipo vertically in my Jnr 60. Here's a link to the refurb blog I posted. Hope it's some help.
BTW I've also used battery access hatches in the underside of the fuselage on several vintage models.

After a quick look through this thread I'm struck by how much wasted space there seems to be in the nose area.

Does the box that the motor's mounted to only contain the ESC ?
I'd suggest taking the top off it & using it to hold both ESC & battery vertically seperated by a liteply partition. Then an upper cowl keyed at the front and held in place with a pair of magnets to cover the whole area & allow easy access to the battery.

Edited By PatMc on 18/01/2018 23:24:28

Piers Bowlan19/01/2018 05:59:17
1310 forum posts
36 photos

Personally I don't find having to remove banded on wings to change a battery too irksome, you may find the wings come off after every 'landing' in any event!

If it will balance, I would just mount the battery vertically behind F2 (behind the windscreen). It is only a 1300Ah battery so it will fit. If it doesn't balance like that I would then replace your (89g) Futaba 148 servos with something lighter devil.

PS. and /or fit a bigger/heavier lipo behind F2 - or make a battery access hatch in the bottom of the fuselage as PatMc suggests. Decisions, decisions!

911hillclimber19/01/2018 09:49:28
53 forum posts
23 photos

Spent some time considering all these actions!

The STOL isn't as big as a Jr60 although it probably looks large.

I'm trying not to butcher it too much in this conversion.

I've looked in detail at your 60 build Pat in trying to see an easy way to fix this connection problem.

With the motor mount as it is, there is very little room to fit the ESC in the outside of the front bulkhead and in doing so this dictates the battery must go between B1 and B2 which is a good cavity on this model, but hard to get into except for a bottom hatch as your 60. My previous 'design' of mount would allow the ESC to fit next to the motor easy, but tight now.

The UC is simply banded to 2 dowels so on one of my rare-to-be hard landing it will move around rather than stress the B1/B" formers, so I think I have to take the knife to the lower panel and minimise the hole and create a hatch as your 60.

It is awkward to work in this area because it is all silk covered and doped and I'm trying to preserve it all!

I have no probs removing the wing to change the battery. My original plane was to have the battery in the belly of the fuselage right in the CofG range where the original futaba battery set was, both batteries are very similar weight..

I felt this mass in that position would not affect the balance much. I will pop the flying surfaces on and see which position is best. I know I don't want to have to add weight to compensate.

Hope to get some time on the plane tomorrow. Got 2 classic cars to fix before the end of March too!

Battery fires must be super rare?

Thank you for your continued interest in my little project.


Edited By 911hillclimber on 19/01/2018 09:50:17

Denis Watkins19/01/2018 10:15:46
2901 forum posts
141 photos

Some tips HC, as you are considering everything very well

The C of G is pretty close, with or without the wing attached

So do your rough weight selections with the wing off, as it is easier than on move batt, on move off on off, OK

Having a " live " aeroplane from the pilots box to the Pitts with Tx in hand, lifting, carrying, putting down, is prime danger time, and the lads are trying to reduce this by advising cutting a hatch.

The live wire break plug gives you instant OFF

Your prep is very concise, so a battery fire unlikely.

Many of us have seen such a fire due to a heavy landing shorting broken insulation, which we negate with battery straps, good insulation and considered flying.

So, the worse happens, bang into the ground, do you take time getting the wing off? Or pull the plug out ?

So far you have considered as much as you possibly can, including unknowns

You are already minimising problems

Good prep leads to season after season of enjoyment with few problems

911hillclimber19/01/2018 15:39:43
53 forum posts
23 photos

Thank you Denis.

Preparation is everything as I've found with the cars I've done for decades, I didn't expect this conversion to be so intricate.

A few posts ago when I aske about the main on/off switch I had this in mind as the 'isolator' to the whole electrical supply, but doubt I can do this. The switch I have would certainly not tolerate the current.

I think I will be cutting a hatch, hinged and fastened with a small R clip as Pat's Jr60 and mount the ESC under the ply engine mount I made right in the air stream, battery leads feeding to the cavity between B1 and B2 to be connected at the last moment.

Before I do this is it ok to have the LiPo stuffed into a tight fitting sponge if I fill B1/B2 cavity or is there a heat issue? Velcro straps just arrived today, so I have a few options now.

Sorry for all the Novice questions!

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