|Richard Clark 2||02/08/2020 12:59:07|
|426 forum posts||
I'm sure they would.
I don't want to be pedantic or critical about this. But is a SCALE model of anything 'old' a vintage model or not when if it is a fairly accurate model it should be impossible to tell by looking at it who designed the model and when?
I've put 'Mercury Aeronca' on the wing of mine though I made it from a modern replica laser cut kit whereas the original had the parts just printed on the balsa so you had to cut them out yourself.
Does my doing that muddy the waters or clarify them?
11799 forum posts
In the case of this Aeronca Sedan, it would not pass as a Vintage or even a Mercury Aeronca Sedan.
The most obvious is that the wing is a single piece. The second it is fully sheeted. A a third is that the spar arrangement is very different. Another difference is wing section, which is pretty much Clark "Y" (or as near as i could make it, which is very different to the Mercury kit claimed Clark "Y". Then of course there is no dihedral. probably a finally is that there will be wing mounted aileron servos.
If we turn to the body, there are some differences in the formers. The Undercarriage is mounted completely differently. There are additional sheeted areas to transfer the landing forces from the UC. All of the cabin top area is different in materials and method of construction. The Firewall is a different design. There is the addition of the Lipo box. My method of cowl construction is different in structure and materials.
Even the tailplane is different, as is the fin and rudder, in most respects other than outline.
The wing to tailplane setting are is different, as is the motor thrust line.
I do not think even a blind judge, squinting would miss that it may look like a Aeronca Sedan, but not a Mercury Kit or plan built version of any other old kit.
I have slightly modified a few PM designs, yet in substance they were and still are PM designs. This is not just a slightly modified Mercury or any one else's kit.
The reason why, is some saw my intention to modify the kit (that I have) as sacrilege. The second is that PM pointed out the Mercury kit was not intended to fly as a modern RC model, which is what I want.
My only concern is what to do with the kit, as I do not collect kits. Yet I do not want the kit to go in a skip when I have gone. I certainly do not like the idea that some one may buy it as some sort of investment. In a way it is a worry for another day (hopefully).
Edited By Erfolg on 02/08/2020 17:18:16
11799 forum posts
Getting back to a post I have missed, somehow. How would I fit CF rods as asked by Peter. I simply poke them through the material then CA them either side. I must have used the Foam Friendly as I first did this on "Foamy Daves Ballerrina".
This is Paulena same method on PP material.
However I think that CF rod is OK. A better way of attacking the rod to the model is needed, something like the solder tags, that Peter mentions. Although they are not something I presently have.
11799 forum posts
While I continue to ponder the issue of the various braces, I have been tentatively being undertaking a little laying up.
Although in the past I have done quite a bit of laying up, I have been reminded that it is practice that makes things easier, knowing what to do, how, the difficulties and the time involved. In short I have struggled. Even the resins have changed, for the better. One really upsetting aspect is that all the tools and special tools i had or made, were thrown away. Why, because i would never again would do any laminating.
The nose and hatch after covering, still more work to do, in rubbing down and then anything else that is needed.
My UC mould.
Product from the mould.
Temporary fitting to see what needs doing next.
Perched on the ground.
Again a lot of finishing work required.
I do not think I have done anything quite like it before. My initial intention is to block back using wet and dry paper. Done wet with soap. The intention is to round all the edges, smooth out flat surfaces, with sufficient key, to take a paint finish.
That is unless you know better and can advice of better ways of achieving a good product.
Edited By Erfolg on 25/08/2020 16:02:57
11799 forum posts
You may gather that using Epoxy is something new to me, being far more familiar with polyester resin and methods. To try and rectify the situation i have taken advice from some one who does use epoxy a lot, with great results. Alas, my short comings have been exposed.
Go get a descent finish on the bits and pieces, I put a thin coat of resin on top of the laminated cloths. I was aware that such a thin coat benefits from a touch more of the hardener and is best applied whilst the surface has a tad of tackiness, just like a Gel Coat, at least that is the case with polyester. I left the bits for a week, to go off. The top did not. In the end, I waited for my wife to go out to golf, then used the oven as an autoclave, setting the oven for 80C for 2 hrs. It did work, although the surface is not as good as I would like.
It seems I will have to use high build primer and rub back, repeatably until an adequate surface is achieved, not what i wanted, but needs must.
I have now started the process of assembly. I have had a nasty shock, in that the model is massively nose heavy, with all the big bits together, with servos temporarily in place. The extent of this problem has 2*2200 4s lipos in the rear cabin area. Not what had been planned at all. I will need an additional servo tray, which will need integrating with the body structure to spread the forces.
The Lipos can be seen in the above picture, This is a real problem.
I will immediately set about a structural re-enforcement to the tail area, I will probably ditch the use of CF rod and move to piano wire, as i now know that weight at the back is not a significant issue, A good integration of the rater flimsy tail unit being far more important.
I will now go for a cry, muttering about, plans and mice and men.
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