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Chris's Vicomte 1916

... aka the Baron 1914 or the Svenson Vicomte 1915

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McG 696912/02/2018 12:43:26
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2528 forum posts
977 photos

Hi David,

I'm not yet in 'final approach' regarding the wheels, but commercial WW1-type wheels are mostly heavy and quite (sometimes very) expensive.

I'm thinking of making my own following Christian Chauzit's own recipe. On his Super Baron from 1996, he uses a 6mm balsa core roundel laminated with 0,8 or 1mm thick ply roundel to each side. The center is an ABS tube (or snake outer) following the diameter of the u/c wire. The tyre is a black Neoprene chord butt glued with rubber glue. I already have some 12mm Neoprene, so I guess my wheels will be approx. 90 > 95mm diameter.

Did you build your '3 channel' wing for The Cup already?

Hakuna matata

Chris

BE - BRU / CTR Wheels Control

 

Edited By McG 6969 on 12/02/2018 12:44:22

Martian12/02/2018 12:57:49
2214 forum posts
1085 photos

Lovely neat work Chris

Edited By Martian on 12/02/2018 12:58:08

McG 696912/02/2018 17:32:02
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2528 forum posts
977 photos

Thank you for your kind words, Martian.

I try to do the best I can, but than I also realize I'm quite slow to progress with my build. blush

Hakuna matata

Chris

BE - BRU / CTR Turtle Control

David Davis13/02/2018 07:49:37
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3373 forum posts
592 photos
Posted by McG 6969 on 12/02/2018 12:43:26:

Hi David,

...Did you build your '3 channel' wing for The Cup already?

Hakuna matata

Chris

BE - BRU / CTR Wheels Control

Edited By McG 6969 on 12/02/2018 12:44:22

I haven't even started Chris but will do something about it later today.

McG 696913/02/2018 17:38:43
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2528 forum posts
977 photos

Ooh, well David... I just hope you didn't 'overwork' yourself today as I was just teasing you a tiny bit. blush

Plenty of time left still, however 'Tempus fugit', ain't it.

As a serious question now, what kind of wheels are you using on your Baron? Were yours included in the Baron Models kit?

Cheers

Chris

David Davis13/02/2018 17:48:18
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3373 forum posts
592 photos

Posted by McG 6969 on 13/02/2018 17:38:43:

....Were yours included in the Baron Models kit?

Cheers

Chris

No they weren't Chris. The wheels I'm using were originally used on a Sopwith One and A Half Strutter control line model and I've had them kicking about for years. A B.Sichi design if you remember him.

I am also thinking of building a reserve model in case I crash my Russian Baron just before the event! However, a guy has one for sale, finished in red transluscent film, fitted with three servos and an OS 32, not too far away from here. He wants €100 for it. A new kit would be €85 plus carriage.

It's snowing here so I haven't had the chance to maiden the model, in fact I haven't flown for two months!

McG 696913/02/2018 18:08:04
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2528 forum posts
977 photos

Sorry David, but I guess I'm too 'apprentice' to modelling so, I can't recall of a Mr Sichi. blush

Well, with servos & an engine included, that doesn't seem too bad if the frame is in good condition. I even think it's quite cheap. yes

Cheers

Chris

David Davis13/02/2018 18:14:27
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3373 forum posts
592 photos

This is the model.

**LINK**

He also designed an early radio model called "Guidato," which had a tricycle undercarriage. It's a model I've always admired. Maybe I'll build one if I live long enough.

**LINK**

McG 696913/02/2018 18:34:01
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2528 forum posts
977 photos

Well then, David... save some cash on the 'reserve' Baron by buying the 'red' one & after that spend some available cash right away to build a 'Guidato'. Simples... yes

Cheers

Chris

McG 696914/02/2018 21:17:52
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2528 forum posts
977 photos

Hi everybody,

Before starting the fuselage build, I wanted to have a better view of how to get the ‘Vicky’ ready for EP power.

Obviously, the motor and prop will need to have some ali spacers or threaded studs. With the 3536 motor, I just need 35 mm to clear the cowl.

108_vic_motor_position_900.jpg

The Vicomte/Baron was originally designed for IC power, but after reading a lot of build reviews, there are two main solutions to introduce the Lipo for an EP conversion: 1/ > a hatch at the bottom between the firewall and the u/c beam or 2/ > removing the wing to get access to the battery.

IMHO, I’m not truly convinced by the ‘bottom’ hatch as the dimensions are quite small and having to remove the wing at each Lipo change is not motivating me neither.

Now besides the hatch decision, the center section of the wing is glued to a big balsa block which forms the top of the front fuse and gets doweled into F1.

109_vic_wing_cowl.jpg

The red parts of the pic above are showing it better than I could explain in words. Anyhow not very found with that long bit of balsa in front of the wing.

I’m thinking now of making the hatch on top between F1 (A on the pic) and F2 (B) - possibly moving F2 a bit backwards - and to modify F2 to receive the wing dowel. That wouldn’t be too hard to build as the wing offers a full horizontal center section.

Any thoughts out there, gents?

Hakuna matata

Chris

BE - BRU / CTR Hatch Control

Robert Parker15/02/2018 09:43:10
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889 forum posts
1141 photos

Hi Chris,

What about introducing a second wing bolt to the front of the wing and gluing some ply across the fuselage to take the captive nut,(I did this on my Taube) and make the front section of the "Red" balsa as a hatch utilising the dowel and held by a magnet at the rear.

Your solution of modifying "F2" to take the wing dowel would also work.

Although it is a little difficult to "see" from just the side elevation alone

Regards

Robert

McG 696915/02/2018 13:03:42
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2528 forum posts
977 photos

Thanks Robert,

That could be a great idea. Why can't I think myself of those? frown

I'll have to check the placement in the wing for that possible third bolt. As I want to keep the hatch opening as large as possible it should be close to the front of the ply dihedral brace

The fuselage ply mounting with a blind nut wouldn't be a problem, I guess.

Regarding the hatch, my intention is to use two small carbon rods at the front through the firewall and two magnets at the back. I did this with my Ballerina and it works perfectly. The central hole at the top of the firewall will be used for some magnets securing the cowl.

711_hatch_magnets_900.jpg

805_hatchfront_weathered_900.jpg

As you wrote, it's sometimes "difficult to see". But for me, even when I have the full plans in front of me... blush

Hakuna matata

Chris

BE - BRU / CTR Third Bolt Control

 

Edited By McG 6969 on 15/02/2018 13:09:39

Robert Parker15/02/2018 17:42:16
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889 forum posts
1141 photos

Hi Chris,

Sometimes it just needs a fresh pair of eyes with a problem or just leave it for a while and go back to it.

Regards

Robert

Robert Parker15/02/2018 17:42:18
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889 forum posts
1141 photos

Hi Chris,

Sometimes it just needs a fresh pair of eyes with a problem or just leave it for a while and go back to it.

Regards

Robert

McG 696916/02/2018 18:53:55
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2528 forum posts
977 photos

Well Robert, in that case I'll need at least half a dozen of "fresh pair of eyes"...

Thinkering, pondering, decisions for 'go' & decisions for 'no'...

I think the fact that I'm on my own with this build, doesn't give me enough confidence. But things are going to change as the fuse drawings are on the building board now.

More to come soon

Hakuna matata

Chris

BE - BRU / CTR Confidence Control

Paul C.16/02/2018 19:12:16
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583 forum posts
139 photos

Hi Chris, catching up on the posts while basking in sunny Spain 😎🍻. My vote would be for a bottom hatch even if you have to cut out a section of F2 should still have loads of room for servos and the ESC. You may need to move the lipo around to get the c of g in the right place. After all of that mental work I think it is time to take the wife out for a stroll down town and maybe a small beer 🍻.

Paul.

McG 696916/02/2018 20:00:50
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2528 forum posts
977 photos

Thanks for visiting from "sunny Spain", Paul. yes

At the moment I'm thinking of keeping the 'bottom front' for the ESC as I want to suppress that large balsa block to retain the wing.

Regarding "moving the Lipo around", unfortunately all the EP Vicomtes seem to be tail heavy & in need of around 100-130g of 'ballast' at the front end. So, Lipo 'max forward' seems to be the only message here. sad

Anyhow, "disfrute su (small) cervezas"...

Hakuna matata

Chris

BE - BRU / CTR Cervezas Control

Martian16/02/2018 21:34:19
2214 forum posts
1085 photos

Hi Chris is it possible to make a side hatch

McG 696916/02/2018 21:48:12
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2528 forum posts
977 photos

Hello Martian,

Well, possibly. But I would think a "side hatch" would be disrupting the front strength of one of the fuse sides... ???

To be honest, I don't really know the possible right answer.

Anyhow, thanks for commenting, young man.

Hakuna matata

Chris

BE - BRU / CTR Dunno Control

Paul C.16/02/2018 22:12:12
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583 forum posts
139 photos

As you need more weight forward how about building a box on f1 to mount the motor instead of using stand offs, you could then cut a hole in f1 to accept the battery. It's electric so no worries about strength and may save some lead In the front and give you a little more wriggle room for the battery. We have been out for the evening so this might not be such a good idea in the cold light of day 😂.

Paul.

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