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Balsa USA Sopwith Pup 1/6 scale

100 years of the Royal Air Force this year and I want a reminder of its roots

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Jon - Laser Engines12/02/2018 16:30:06
3751 forum posts
147 photos

will you do the u/c as the kit suggests? i was going to do something different for a more scale appearance and, i hope, slightly lighter weight.

Simon Knight12/02/2018 16:32:54
104 forum posts
178 photos

I'll probably keep it as the kit says and use the spreader bar attached with rubber bands to allow it to flex on my not so delicate landings that will no doubt result.

Simon Knight15/02/2018 20:16:49
104 forum posts
178 photos

Ok so I have done the top deck and rear stringers this week. Unfortunately i messed up when doing the sheeting and for some reason some how glued it too short fo the rear of the deck so now have a gap between it and the stringers. I was going to varnish the wood and leave it bare, but now I think it will be painted/covered to hide my mistake. All seemed to go well other than that though. Came across my first not so good sheet of die cut parts (sheet 10) and it needed a lot more careful easing out with assistance from a blade.

495615ee-d6f3-48ff-87e4-00efc321bfcc.jpeg

34ed9bcb-4809-4483-98f3-8c97b2f0b2c0.jpeg

Have decided to use an old Sarto FS 45 Special which I have acquired 2nd hand, but not sure what size prop/make to use. Would like something nearer to scale size so as big as possible but something that also looks nice rather than a nasty grey blade; any suggestions? Would also like to have a dummy rotary engine to put in the cowl if anyone knows of a good option. I used a nice 3D printer one in my DVIII nd it looks good and helps with nose weight.

I am now at the stage of soldering for the cabane and am entering new territory so sense that progress will be slower.

Jon - Laser Engines15/02/2018 20:43:12
3751 forum posts
147 photos

i have 2 saito 45 specials and if you are nice to them they will swing 15x5 turnigy type A wood props. you wont get the best power, but it will look good. It must also be that exact prop or it wont work.

David Ovenden15/02/2018 20:43:46
avatar
312 forum posts
12 photos

I have a Saito 45 in an old Hawker Tomtit biplane. 52" span. I have used a 12.5 x 5 graupner prop which gave nice scale performance. Now using a 12x5 apc. However, both of these are grey!

Simon Knight16/02/2018 15:58:33
104 forum posts
178 photos

Ok, props ordered, the Turnigy ones (2 just in case). Will try a grey one for running the engine prior to mounting and then retune with the wooden one.

Now I can't find stock of the solartex Linen or Antique anywhere, well 1m but that isn't enough. Plenty of Olive Drab but as they aren't making it anymore I have considered trying Rocking Horse poop as it may be easier to find and apply. May have to go for a made up scheme or go all white. Unless there is a Linen colour paint i can use over the white solartex?

raaf pup main.jpg

In fact while I'm on, What is the best way of painting or covering the model to give it that Aluminum look. I was going to just spray the cowling red for ease?

Edited By Simon Knight on 16/02/2018 16:02:45

Jon - Laser Engines16/02/2018 16:36:15
3751 forum posts
147 photos

i guess you will have to use the oracover alternative. shame its a lead more expensive **LINK**

As for the metal effect you can try aluminium tape, or that chrome finish fablon stuff. if you give a coat of matt fuel proofer it will dull it down and make it look like tired aluminium.

Simon Knight16/02/2018 17:25:21
104 forum posts
178 photos

Got some of that tape so will give it a go. Oracover is 3 times the price! Ouch Reckon 2m will be enough for the unde Sides?

David Ovenden16/02/2018 20:34:38
avatar
312 forum posts
12 photos
Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 16/02/2018 16:36:15:

i guess you will have to use the oracover alternative. shame its a lead more expensive **LINK**

As for the metal effect you can try aluminium tape, or that chrome finish fablon stuff. if you give a coat of matt fuel proofer it will dull it down and make it look like tired aluminium.

Cheaper here (under £19 @current exchange rate?) but not sure how much postage would be from France?

https://www.topmodel.fr/en/product-detail-7342-oratex-antic-2m

Edited By David Ovenden on 16/02/2018 20:35:43

Edited By David Ovenden on 16/02/2018 21:06:02

Robert Parker17/02/2018 08:06:52
avatar
773 forum posts
1047 photos

Hi Simon,

I managed to get some linen solartex from steve webb last friday, not sure if they still have any left.

As for the aluminium aluclad from flair if memory serves me correct from sussex model centre.

I have used it in the past it is a bit tricky to put on but the results as great or you could try some chrome iron film

Regards

Robert

McG 696917/02/2018 10:19:35
avatar
2071 forum posts
884 photos

Hello Simon,

If you 're looking for a cheaper and easier alternative to Aluclad, you could try some iron-on film from HK > the 'Bright Silver'. Not a real chrome effect but it looks like weathered aluminium.

2232_aftdeck_weathering02_900.jpg

I used it on my Ballerina together with a wash of 'gun metal' grey acrylic paint diluted with meth for even more weathering.

Cheers

Chris

.

Simon Knight17/02/2018 10:30:10
104 forum posts
178 photos

Thanks for the recommendations Gents. Chris that looks really nice.

I was wondering about spray painting white solar tex with a linen acrylic. Worked on my Yak 9 tissue covering with a coating of polyurethane satin varnish to protect it from the fuel.

Simon Knight28/02/2018 20:16:51
104 forum posts
178 photos

Ok, so it’s been 2 weeks since my last build update and I am officially rubbish at soldering. I won’t show picture of the effort but it holds and hopefully when the wood is applied it will look less ugly. From there I moved on to the firewall and fuse sides to cowling. The firewall is as far back as I can get it with the engine not rubbing but it will stick out further from the cowl than I’d like but it is very similar to the BUSA built kit and should have the exhaust directly underneath so neater overall.

Building the wing struts was frustrating trying to get the wings level because whatever adjustment I made altered the opposite measurement, but it is close enough for me and how I fly so should be fine now. I have yet to solder the centre parts of the struts and will do this when fixing the undercarriage.

I have decided to add the wing rigging wires for aesthetic reasons and have visited my local fishing tackle shop for the parts that will do the trick for me. A lot cheaper than the real,scale parts and obviously not as realistic looking, but in flight will be just fine. Finally managed to work out how to mount them this evening and currently will only be fixed to the wing permanently (once covered) and will be removable from the fuselage. I think they look alright for my first attempt and now need to finish the other 6 rigging lines. Slow progress but we’re getting there.

I’ll add some pertinent pictures later, but they’re all in the album at the moment.

Simon Knight28/02/2018 22:36:17
104 forum posts
178 photos

35

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42

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45

Geoff Sleath01/03/2018 00:05:15
avatar
2604 forum posts
198 photos

I used to use fishing swivels for the rigging of my 1 metre model racing yacht so they're quite strong. However simple shirring elastic, available from drapers or shops selling dress making fabric and fittings (if that's the right term ) is OK to simulate rigging on biplanes that's not structural on the model.

stearman 170416_3.jpg

Geoff

bert baker01/03/2018 20:17:26
avatar
1127 forum posts
232 photos

Personal I would still change the strut mounts especially as covering is getting harder to source

Daithi O Buitigh02/03/2018 03:27:34
avatar
1289 forum posts
44 photos

Simon, if it's any use, I uploaded a collection of Sopwith factory drawings to hippocket some time back. There's detail you wouldn't believe (and would never see anyway) but stuff like instruiment panel, the (removable) pocket watch (apparently this was a very popular item if the pilot forgot to take it out after landing), thew pilot's seat (16 SWG 'armour plate' ) and so on.

set 1

set 2

set 3

You need to register on the forum page and drop a PM to Ratz to get access to the plans section

Simon Knight06/03/2018 11:33:34
104 forum posts
178 photos

Morning all, thanks for the above comments. I have amended the strut mounts by using Plasticard laminated with one of the plywood cut outs from the kit. This will hopefully give the strength required but without adding much weight at all; was also easy to do.

I have finished created the rigging and I think it looks ok so happy with my effort. Will fit it once covered and as the size of the model fits in my car, shouldn't need to dismantle it that often if at all.

50

So with that done I thought it was time to get the electrics in, should be simple. Built up a servo tray as suggested and fitted the servos neatly. Next the engine. I know it fits neatly without too much sticking out the front and that I'll have to drill a hole through the fuselage to access the high speed needle etc but that is no drama. Then I realise that the throttle arm is actually at the bottom of the fuse almost in the centre and this is a significant way from the servo and certainly not a neat straight route.

51So, the simple question is can I just built a servo tray for the throttle servo on the side of the fuselage and have a straight route which seems the simplest thing to me, or is there an alternative way of linking the throttle arm to servo in its normal position. My engine is positioned almost exactly as in the build guide but obviously as it is a different make, the components are positioned differently which I hadn't considered. I think with fule tank and battery in place I will have space.

52

Simon Knight06/03/2018 11:34:54
104 forum posts
178 photos

Morning all, thanks for the above comments. I have amended the strut mounts by using Plasticard laminated with one of the plywood cut outs from the kit. This will hopefully give the strength required but without adding much weight at all; was also easy to do.

I have finished created the rigging and I think it looks ok so happy with my effort. Will fit it once covered and as the size of the model fits in my car, shouldn't need to dismantle it that often if at all.

50

So with that done I thought it was time to get the electrics in, should be simple. Built up a servo tray as suggested and fitted the servos neatly. Next the engine. I know it fits neatly without too much sticking out the front and that I'll have to drill a hole through the fuselage to access the high speed needle etc but that is no drama. Then I realise that the throttle arm is actually at the bottom of the fuse almost in the centre and this is a significant way from the servo and certainly not a neat straight route.

51So, the simple question is can I just built a servo tray for the throttle servo on the side of the fuselage and have a straight route which seems the simplest thing to me, or is there an alternative way of linking the throttle arm to servo in its normal position. My engine is positioned almost exactly as in the build guide but obviously as it is a different make, the components are positioned differently which I hadn't considered. I think with fule tank and battery in place I will have space.

52

Geoff Sleath06/03/2018 11:55:25
avatar
2604 forum posts
198 photos

You can fit the the throttle servo wherever you like - even right next to the engine. When I used glow engines rather than brushless motors I frequently used small servos for throttle control and there's a lot of good and inexpensive small servos available with more than adequate power to move a throttle linkage.

Geoff

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