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RN Hawker Sea Hurricane IIc

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Phil Cooke05/07/2018 17:30:43
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2152 forum posts
1502 photos

Good to get back onto the wing build after a break for travel to the Lleyn and the associated time needed both before and after any PSSA event! There's not many weeks left until our Mass Build event and I'm conscious there's still an awful lot of finishing jobs to tackle!

The wing T/E's are all now complete, ailerons are cut to size, shaped and hinged - I sanded in the small degree of washout needed as opposed to twisting it in with ammonia - works ok.

aileron hinge 1.jpg

I've used some little knuckle type hinges on the ailerons to allow for an offset hinge line and a fully rounded L/E to the flying surface.

aileron hinge 2.jpg

The wing now needs a really good sanding session, wing tips, L/E, T/E stock still all to be shaped and smoothed. If I get a good run at it I might actually be able to get some glass on the wing at the weekend!?

Trevor05/07/2018 18:29:18
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299 forum posts
40 photos

Very nice job on the aileron hinges Phil. Mine will be simply top hinged with the covering and/or tape, in order to minimise the protrusion of the horns.

Trevor

Phil Cooke11/07/2018 23:13:19
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2152 forum posts
1502 photos

I've fitted the cockpit floor at a 'nose down' angle such that the pilot, positioned almost centrally front to back has the required clearance beneath the cockpit glazing whilst still enabling about 35mm of dashboard to be achieved at the front - giving enough area for a worthwhile set of controls to be added.

cockpit floor.jpg

The wing has had a basic sanding on L/E and T/E allowing it to be fitted to the fuselage for the camera.

Everything is basically ready for final sanding now, prior to glass. I intend to finish and glass the wing before making the wing fillets for best fit. Cannons, Radio Antenna, fitting of exhaust stubs - not too much more 'building' to do... just finishing.

sanding ready.jpg

Phil Cooke21/07/2018 07:28:11
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2152 forum posts
1502 photos

Another weekend of final shaping lies ahead prior to a workshop clean - then glass...

I've made up the little elevator joiner/actuator with a central horn to keep the snake and clevis internal.

elevator joiner.jpg

To allow this to articulate the fus and rudder need to be trimmed back as shown, I'll have to make some little 1/64" ply covers to fit once the linkage is all attached.

elevator joiner 2.jpg

Phil Cooke22/07/2018 11:37:16
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2152 forum posts
1502 photos

Been making a few scale detail items as I try and put off the glassing...

Some 20mm cannons turned from 5mm dowel in the hand-drill, will be fitted with magnets and elastic (as per the Chris Barlow patent pending) and a small carburetor intake to sit under the wing L/E - all 'cartoon' scale of course.

scale details 1.jpg

Alan Gorham_23/07/2018 09:58:40
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563 forum posts
71 photos

It's perfect weather for glassing Phil, you'll get a nice solid cure in 12 hours at these temps - get it done!

Phil Cooke24/07/2018 21:12:19
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2152 forum posts
1502 photos

Yes Alan, you're probably right!

The wing is now fitted with wing bolt load spreader, wing dowel and the little wing/fus blend at the front. Couldn't resist a little dry fit of the radiators with it all shaped up! With the wing fitted against F3 at the front I found I had a 1/8" gap between the wing T/E and F7 - so I added some 1/16" balsa sheet and sanded it to the wing T/E profile.

radiator 3.jpg

I've elected to permanently glue my radiator to the wing (once its been glassed) - which means I needed a wing bolt access hole for the driver. The prototype didn't need this as Matt made the radiator removable - held in place with strong magnets. I'm tempted to cut the load spreader down a bit at the back so it doesn't protrude aft as shown when aligned as per the plan.

radiator 4.jpg

Phil Cooke29/07/2018 08:43:38
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2152 forum posts
1502 photos

Been working on the wing/fus fillets - a little deviation from the plan here, making them full chord as per the full-size. They've proven quite a lot of work for little reward beyond the standard kit of parts as supplied, but at least the scale police will be happier.

1/64" ply base taped to the wing - with 1/8" balsa fillet formers and 1/32" bass wood sheeting on top from the main spar rearwards. Forwards of that I used 10mm triangular section cut into small lengths and sanded to the concave section once glued to the fuselage.

fillets 1.jpg

fillets 2.jpg

fillets 3.jpg

fillets 5.jpg

fillets 4.jpg

Just have to 'block in' the section rear of the T/E now, then sand it all to shape with a smear of light weight filler.

 

Edited By Phil Cooke on 29/07/2018 08:47:09

Trevor29/07/2018 09:05:49
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299 forum posts
40 photos

Very neat Phil. However for once, I must complain about your timing - I started my wing fillets yesterday without the benefit of your input.

img_1748.jpg

Either you are going to have to speed up or I'll have to slow downwink!

Trevor

Phil Cooke31/07/2018 23:27:39
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2152 forum posts
1502 photos

Fillets now complete, including the wrap-around front fillets - which required a lot of careful carving and sanding (and sculpting of filler embarrassed) to get right!

fillets 6.jpg

fillets 7.jpg

Harry Twist01/08/2018 00:41:28
269 forum posts
196 photos
Beautiful work on the wing root fillets Phil, just starting work on mine but spending a little time getting a better wing to fus seat first.
Alan Gorham_01/08/2018 08:56:54
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563 forum posts
71 photos

Proper job Phil!

Trevor01/08/2018 10:04:39
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299 forum posts
40 photos

Very nice! I'm ashamed to say that I opted out of the leading edge fillets. Like you, I find them a lot of work and they are impossible to film cover neatly which, since I have a severe paint aversion, that's a big factor.

The July instalment of my build is now online at:

http://www.bartonhewsons.uk/home/modelflying/soarers/hurricaneproject.html#July

It seems to be mainly about snakes and fillets!

Trevor

Phil Cooke07/08/2018 18:56:14
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2152 forum posts
1502 photos

I really SHOULD be glassing the airframe as time is ticking fast, less than 5 weeks to go!! But instead I find myself drawn to some other details, the last session was spent fitting 6mm dia paired magnets to the cannons and cannon bases.

The base magnet was potted in P38 and sanded back to the required dome shape - this section of dowel will be glued and faired into the wing L/E.

cannon 1.jpg

First attempt I just flush mounted the magnet on the barrel, glued with epoxy - which 'shattered' after only a few magnet 'snaps' as the two parts eagerly crashed back together. I fixed this problem by wrapping the magnet and the base of the cannon with Tamiya masking tape then soaking that in thin cyano. This gives it the robust mount necessary and avoids the magnet releasing from its epoxy foundation.

cannon 2.jpg

Finished cannons awaiting some paint

cannon 3.jpg

Andy Meade08/08/2018 10:10:46
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2415 forum posts
630 photos

Very neat solution Phil, and super fine carving there too.

Phil Cooke08/08/2018 15:33:02
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2152 forum posts
1502 photos

Thanks Andy.

There was a lot of good debate over the weekend regarding ballast on the Hurricanes, they'll all certainly need some additional weight up front and it got us thinking about how best to retain it safely and robustly.

Of course you could just cut ballast to fit into the battery tube ahead of the battery, as we did on the A-4 and JP - but the amount of ballast needed means the battery mass wouldn't be as far forwards as ideal and the resultant AUW wouldn't be optimised.

We discussed ways of mounting the ballast into the spinner, but then, considering its resultant mass, spinner retention becomes the issue. Anyway we came up with the following idea and yesterday I did my best to employ it - I think it's worked out quite well.

I mounted a 10x40mm steel bolt through a solid piece of hardwood 15mm x 15mm is section. A 50 or even 60mm length bolt would be better, extending further forward into the spinner, but I only had 40mm in stock so I counter sank the head and glued it in place using gorilla glue.

nosebolt 1.jpg

F1 was then butchered to accept the wooden block. Where F1 met the battery box and the perpendicular F10 formers I drilled them out to the 15mm depth of the block - this produced a nice cradle support at each end of the wooden block and exposed plenty of surface area for the adhesive to work on.

nosebolt 2.jpg

Here's the block and bolt dry fitted into the fus - supporting 12oz of lead here and nipped up tight with a 10mm nut. The spinner slips over the ballast without any direct contact which I think is a good thing - any knocks or bangs on the spinner during landing therefore isn't putting load directly into this ballast mount.

nosebolt 3.jpg

I'll tailor the ballast needed as my build is completed - if I need more than I can physically fit on my 40mm bolt then it will have to sit ahead of the battery in the battery tube but that should only be minimal IF it is needed at all!? The block has now been securely mounted using gorilla glue and it's rock solid!

Danny Fenton08/08/2018 16:41:27
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8568 forum posts
3461 photos

Lovely tidy modelling as always

Cheers

Danny

Flyer08/08/2018 17:54:59
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465 forum posts
61 photos

Nice and tidy Phil; I've done something similar by putting a captive nut behind that former, with the idea of casting the lead into a conical shape, with a bolt in it, so it will screw into the nut up against the bulkhead. My only concern now is that mine may not be as robust as your method.

Cheers

Ade

Chris Barlow08/08/2018 20:53:59
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1770 forum posts
1207 photos

The captive nut will go a long way to spread the load Ade. I might be doing the same but my first plan is to cut the former and extend the battery tube up into the spinner, getting the battery as far forward as possible.

Flyer08/08/2018 21:15:19
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465 forum posts
61 photos

img_0490.jpgimg_0488.jpgThis is what I've done with mine. My thinking is that as long as its seated flat any 'landing' load will be spread across F1A. The benefit of using a thread and nut is that additional lead can be added / subtracted easily. Fingers crossed..... img_0487.jpg

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