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Rearwin Speedster 6000

2019 Indoor R/C Nationals Candidate

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Martyn K14/03/2018 16:22:26
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4657 forum posts
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So the 2018 Indoor Nationals didn't happen - sadly called off due to the 'Beast from the East'. It did actually save my personal embarrassment as my little Fokker EIII didn't perform quite as well as expected. I did learn something from the experience and that was don't leave it so late for next year. I also learnt that it may be better to choose an easier prototype.

Flying indoors was not as stressful as I thought it would be, there is more space than expected and the setting is actually quite relaxed. Great fun. However, for next year, I want a model ready for the start of the indoor season so have been looking for a candidate.

I have always liked the charm of period 1930's aircraft and I have been looking at this aircraft as a build candidate for a couple of years now. Its NC15865, the 2nd prototype Rearwin Speedster 6000 (not the later M variant) which is still operational in the USA. Fortunately, there are several decent photos of it on the internet - hopefully enough to build my scale dossier.

 

Working from a 6000M 3-view, there are some differences - mainly a different fin and cabin window layout and a slightly different cowl to accommodate a different powerplant. Fortunately, I have been able to extrapolate the correct dimensions and shape from the photos that are available. It should be accurate enough.

I am building this at 1/10 scale giving a wingspan of 975mm or thereabouts. Target mass will be 150g - but I'll be happy if its less than 175g.

Its going to be a slow build, I need to finish some models before I start another one like this but hopefully it will be completed by October.

rearwin-6000-plan-v1.jpg

The plan looks like this at the moment - mainly a tracing from the 3v but with some structure being added. It will have 2 x 3mm square balsa/carbon composite spars to help keep the wing strong, straight and stiff, the rest will be mainly traditional stick and tissue construction.

1280px-rearwin_speedster_(nc15865).jpg

Getting those wheel spats and undercarriage fairing built light will be a challenge

1315095-large.jpg

This image shows the earlier fin and cockpit variance - transposed to my plan.

 

More to come.

 

Martyn

 

Edited By Martyn K on 14/03/2018 16:36:13

Martyn K21/08/2018 16:11:25
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4657 forum posts
3304 photos

Well, here I am on holiday and so far the build has traversed 3 countries, France, I cut out wing ribs, Germany I started on the Fus, Didn't do anything in Austria but in Italy, work on the fus progresses.

So, rattling through my holiday snaps...

fus1.jpg

Lower fuselage sides built on top of each other. This was quite curvy and it was tricky trying to keep the upper longeron straight

fus2.jpg

To complicate things, the fus sides are not upright, they form a trapezium so it was assembled upside down on my little building board

fus3.jpg

Like this...

fus4.jpg

I made a couple of jigs to keep the fus sides at the right angle. Wood is very light and I was just a bit nervous that a gentle knock would do a great deal of damage.

fus7.jpg

A 1/32 ply nose former and motor mount - extensively hollowed out.

fus8.jpg

All the side and lower longerons were fitted before the fus was removed from the building board. That helped keep the upper longeron nice and straight. The right hand side has the door frame fitted at well

fus6.jpg

The challenging bit this afternoon has been trying to manipulate these cheeks/cowl sides into place, A very tricky compound curve..

fus5.jpg

Another shot. Still a bit of tweaking to do before I fit the lower part of the cowl.

And this is what my mobile workshop looks like

holiday workshop.jpg

Caught unawares..

More to come

Martyn

Martyn K05/09/2018 09:36:50
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4657 forum posts
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Had a few WiFi problems while on holiday so unfortunately, the updates didn't happen from my PC.

Progress was a little slower then expected, mainly because I was enrolled into doing holiday type activities so can't really complain..

fin1.jpg

Before I could do the upper stringers of the fuselage, I needed to get the fin built. A thick card template and 4 laminations of 1/32 balsa with one lamination of 0.006" carbon for strength and anti warp properties. All very straightforward. It also didn't take long for the heat to dry out the well wetted balsa laminations

The ribs are mainly 1/32 balsa with 3/32 for the upper rudder joint ribs and uprights

fin2.jpg

A test fit and all looks good. Rib spacing is as per full size. The fin slots into a little hole in te top of the fus and also a little cutaway at the rear.

fus10.jpg

Withe the fin built and temporarily pinned into place the upper stringers can be added. There is a thin piece of very light infill between the upper outer stringers and the sides of the fin to attach the tissue. The idea is that all parts can be covered and painted before they are finally glued together. Hopefully

tail1.jpg

The tailplane was made in two halved, 5 lams of 1/32 plus 1 carbon which is visible in this shot

tail2.jpg

When dry, both halves are glued together with a 1/16 balsa brace and ribs added. Hinge line spars are 3/32 balsa. All very lightweight wood.

And that is where it was packed up and shipped back to the UK where it now joins the Foka, Chippie and Dalotel (and shortly the Fury)..

But I do need to get this finished sooner rather than later. Just need to make some space.

More to come

Martyn

Martyn K11/10/2018 16:26:12
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4657 forum posts
3304 photos

A bit of progress in the last couple of weeks

Wing has (mainly) been built. All very straightforward

wing1.jpg

The only real highlight is that I have used 0.006" unidirectional carbon cyano'd to the top and bottom of the spars.

wing2.jpg

Wingtips laminated around a cardboard template with cling film to protect the wood. No carbon in these tops they are strong enough without additional reinforcement

wing3.jpg

The aileron inlays were added after the wing was assembled, cutting slots into the ribs with a razor blade and gently teasing out the slot. Quite time consuming but it does mean that the slots fit the wood exactly. The ailerons have been separated except for the TE...

wing4.jpg

The other wing.. The LE sheeting is 1/32" balsa, sanded thinner..

wing5.jpg

I puzzled over how to join the wings. On the 6000C (this version and the C stands for Cirrus), this version does not have the clear plastic roof which means I can hide some structure.

The wings have rather think end ribs - this was intentional as I envisaged I would use these structurally rather than just tissue supports. I settled on two spruce link spars. A bit heavy but only 2.5mm square. The wings will also be supported by the wing struts so should be strong enough

There will be servo in each wing half to drive the ailerons. I am going to use Danny's method of sprung hinges made from floppy disk media and a pull chord to hold them down.

The wing was parked while I got on with the fuselage.

The UC fairing and spats have been bothering me since I drew the plan up. Apart from being draggy, I was puzzled how I could build these light enough for an indoor model but strong enough to withstand my landings

uc1.jpg

The LE of the fairing is from very light 3/16 balsa then seriously sanded down. The UC legs are bent through from 20swg piano wire and fastened to a 3mm lite ply plate - with most of the ply removed.. The root fairings are from 1.5mm balsa and sanded back

uc2.jpg

Another shot. I actually made an error bending the wire - the down leg near the wheel was about 8mm too long. I thought it looked odd. Fortunately I managed to straighten re-bend it without any damage.

uc3.jpg

The spats and wheels were from 3/8" balsa - the spats have 1/16" sides. I have cheated a little here, the spats are about 1/3 thinner than they should be. However at 4.6 gms, I am quite pleased

uc4.jpg

And fitted. The TE of the UC fairings are from 1/32" balsa sheet. You can also see the lower hatch. All access to battery, radio gear and servos will be here.

uc5.jpg

Finally, standing on its own wheels. The motor has been mounted )and then wrapped in cling film and tape to keep dust out and the front of the cowl added. Still some sanding to do but you can see how little wood there is left in the cowl sides. You can also see the flat edge of the spats, I have tried to maintain the shape on the outside but I am sure the judges will spot that. If AUW looks OK, I may well widen the inside as well before I cover it. Should be easy to do.

I still have the wing mounting to finish and the cockpit interior to do, but its coming along nicely. I need to get this mainly out of the way before I can start the fury.. Which I am itching to do...

More to come

Martyn

fly boy311/10/2018 17:16:24
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3290 forum posts
11 photos

Exellent wood work Martiyn, especially the laminated tips whichI am about fit to my current build. Slightly off topic, your building board seems to be plaster board ? How do you get on with this ? Cheers

Stephen Jones11/10/2018 17:45:34
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2511 forum posts
1448 photos

looking Very Nice indeed thumbs up

Steve

Martyn K11/10/2018 18:36:32
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4657 forum posts
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Thanks both

I love plasterboard for building on. Its cheap and easy to replace when it gets damaged. Which it will. I just tack it to a pine board that has lateral braces underneath to prevent it bowing.

I have 3 building boards. Daddy is 2m long x 500mm wide, mummy is about 1.4m x 300mm and baby is about 750mm x 300mm.

All are plasterboard on pine

Edited By Martyn K on 11/10/2018 18:37:08

fly boy311/10/2018 22:28:15
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3290 forum posts
11 photos

Thank Martin, I have read a lot about plaster board being as a suitable board and used by a lot of trad.builders. In my shed I use a redundant kitchen top about 2inches thick. Would this be suitable to take the plaster board as it is ? Cheers

Martyn K12/10/2018 14:40:35
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4657 forum posts
3304 photos
If the woktop is flat then it will be ok. Make sure you go up to the wall as stuff will fall down the back. Just tack the corners so you can remove it if you dont like it. Mine last about 2 to 3 years.

You can see from tne photo that i put an offcut of carboard to protect it when its being used as a work area. Its not a workbench though so you may need to think through your working procedures

Martyn
fly boy312/10/2018 17:06:31
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3290 forum posts
11 photos

Thanks for that Martin good advice. May I ask your method of cutting out large holes in balsa(nose section of cowl). Thanks.

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