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Rearwin Speedster 6000

2019 Indoor R/C Nationals Candidate

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Martyn K14/03/2018 16:22:26
5072 forum posts
3678 photos

So the 2018 Indoor Nationals didn't happen - sadly called off due to the 'Beast from the East'. It did actually save my personal embarrassment as my little Fokker EIII didn't perform quite as well as expected. I did learn something from the experience and that was don't leave it so late for next year. I also learnt that it may be better to choose an easier prototype.

Flying indoors was not as stressful as I thought it would be, there is more space than expected and the setting is actually quite relaxed. Great fun. However, for next year, I want a model ready for the start of the indoor season so have been looking for a candidate.

I have always liked the charm of period 1930's aircraft and I have been looking at this aircraft as a build candidate for a couple of years now. Its NC15865, the 2nd prototype Rearwin Speedster 6000 (not the later M variant) which is still operational in the USA. Fortunately, there are several decent photos of it on the internet - hopefully enough to build my scale dossier.


Working from a 6000M 3-view, there are some differences - mainly a different fin and cabin window layout and a slightly different cowl to accommodate a different powerplant. Fortunately, I have been able to extrapolate the correct dimensions and shape from the photos that are available. It should be accurate enough.

I am building this at 1/10 scale giving a wingspan of 975mm or thereabouts. Target mass will be 150g - but I'll be happy if its less than 175g.

Its going to be a slow build, I need to finish some models before I start another one like this but hopefully it will be completed by October.


The plan looks like this at the moment - mainly a tracing from the 3v but with some structure being added. It will have 2 x 3mm square balsa/carbon composite spars to help keep the wing strong, straight and stiff, the rest will be mainly traditional stick and tissue construction.


Getting those wheel spats and undercarriage fairing built light will be a challenge


This image shows the earlier fin and cockpit variance - transposed to my plan.


More to come.




Edited By Martyn K on 14/03/2018 16:36:13

Martyn K21/08/2018 16:11:25
5072 forum posts
3678 photos

Well, here I am on holiday and so far the build has traversed 3 countries, France, I cut out wing ribs, Germany I started on the Fus, Didn't do anything in Austria but in Italy, work on the fus progresses.

So, rattling through my holiday snaps...


Lower fuselage sides built on top of each other. This was quite curvy and it was tricky trying to keep the upper longeron straight


To complicate things, the fus sides are not upright, they form a trapezium so it was assembled upside down on my little building board


Like this...


I made a couple of jigs to keep the fus sides at the right angle. Wood is very light and I was just a bit nervous that a gentle knock would do a great deal of damage.


A 1/32 ply nose former and motor mount - extensively hollowed out.


All the side and lower longerons were fitted before the fus was removed from the building board. That helped keep the upper longeron nice and straight. The right hand side has the door frame fitted at well


The challenging bit this afternoon has been trying to manipulate these cheeks/cowl sides into place, A very tricky compound curve..


Another shot. Still a bit of tweaking to do before I fit the lower part of the cowl.

And this is what my mobile workshop looks like

holiday workshop.jpg

Caught unawares..

More to come


Martyn K05/09/2018 09:36:50
5072 forum posts
3678 photos

Had a few WiFi problems while on holiday so unfortunately, the updates didn't happen from my PC.

Progress was a little slower then expected, mainly because I was enrolled into doing holiday type activities so can't really complain..


Before I could do the upper stringers of the fuselage, I needed to get the fin built. A thick card template and 4 laminations of 1/32 balsa with one lamination of 0.006" carbon for strength and anti warp properties. All very straightforward. It also didn't take long for the heat to dry out the well wetted balsa laminations

The ribs are mainly 1/32 balsa with 3/32 for the upper rudder joint ribs and uprights


A test fit and all looks good. Rib spacing is as per full size. The fin slots into a little hole in te top of the fus and also a little cutaway at the rear.


Withe the fin built and temporarily pinned into place the upper stringers can be added. There is a thin piece of very light infill between the upper outer stringers and the sides of the fin to attach the tissue. The idea is that all parts can be covered and painted before they are finally glued together. Hopefully


The tailplane was made in two halved, 5 lams of 1/32 plus 1 carbon which is visible in this shot


When dry, both halves are glued together with a 1/16 balsa brace and ribs added. Hinge line spars are 3/32 balsa. All very lightweight wood.

And that is where it was packed up and shipped back to the UK where it now joins the Foka, Chippie and Dalotel (and shortly the Fury)..

But I do need to get this finished sooner rather than later. Just need to make some space.

More to come


Martyn K11/10/2018 16:26:12
5072 forum posts
3678 photos

A bit of progress in the last couple of weeks

Wing has (mainly) been built. All very straightforward


The only real highlight is that I have used 0.006" unidirectional carbon cyano'd to the top and bottom of the spars.


Wingtips laminated around a cardboard template with cling film to protect the wood. No carbon in these tops they are strong enough without additional reinforcement


The aileron inlays were added after the wing was assembled, cutting slots into the ribs with a razor blade and gently teasing out the slot. Quite time consuming but it does mean that the slots fit the wood exactly. The ailerons have been separated except for the TE...


The other wing.. The LE sheeting is 1/32" balsa, sanded thinner..


I puzzled over how to join the wings. On the 6000C (this version and the C stands for Cirrus), this version does not have the clear plastic roof which means I can hide some structure.

The wings have rather think end ribs - this was intentional as I envisaged I would use these structurally rather than just tissue supports. I settled on two spruce link spars. A bit heavy but only 2.5mm square. The wings will also be supported by the wing struts so should be strong enough

There will be servo in each wing half to drive the ailerons. I am going to use Danny's method of sprung hinges made from floppy disk media and a pull chord to hold them down.

The wing was parked while I got on with the fuselage.

The UC fairing and spats have been bothering me since I drew the plan up. Apart from being draggy, I was puzzled how I could build these light enough for an indoor model but strong enough to withstand my landings


The LE of the fairing is from very light 3/16 balsa then seriously sanded down. The UC legs are bent through from 20swg piano wire and fastened to a 3mm lite ply plate - with most of the ply removed.. The root fairings are from 1.5mm balsa and sanded back


Another shot. I actually made an error bending the wire - the down leg near the wheel was about 8mm too long. I thought it looked odd. Fortunately I managed to straighten re-bend it without any damage.


The spats and wheels were from 3/8" balsa - the spats have 1/16" sides. I have cheated a little here, the spats are about 1/3 thinner than they should be. However at 4.6 gms, I am quite pleased


And fitted. The TE of the UC fairings are from 1/32" balsa sheet. You can also see the lower hatch. All access to battery, radio gear and servos will be here.


Finally, standing on its own wheels. The motor has been mounted )and then wrapped in cling film and tape to keep dust out and the front of the cowl added. Still some sanding to do but you can see how little wood there is left in the cowl sides. You can also see the flat edge of the spats, I have tried to maintain the shape on the outside but I am sure the judges will spot that. If AUW looks OK, I may well widen the inside as well before I cover it. Should be easy to do.

I still have the wing mounting to finish and the cockpit interior to do, but its coming along nicely. I need to get this mainly out of the way before I can start the fury.. Which I am itching to do...

More to come


fly boy311/10/2018 17:16:24
3670 forum posts
22 photos

Exellent wood work Martiyn, especially the laminated tips whichI am about fit to my current build. Slightly off topic, your building board seems to be plaster board ? How do you get on with this ? Cheers

Stephen Jones11/10/2018 17:45:34
2805 forum posts
1614 photos

looking Very Nice indeed thumbs up


Martyn K11/10/2018 18:36:32
5072 forum posts
3678 photos
Thanks both

I love plasterboard for building on. Its cheap and easy to replace when it gets damaged. Which it will. I just tack it to a pine board that has lateral braces underneath to prevent it bowing.

I have 3 building boards. Daddy is 2m long x 500mm wide, mummy is about 1.4m x 300mm and baby is about 750mm x 300mm.

All are plasterboard on pine

Edited By Martyn K on 11/10/2018 18:37:08

fly boy311/10/2018 22:28:15
3670 forum posts
22 photos

Thank Martin, I have read a lot about plaster board being as a suitable board and used by a lot of In my shed I use a redundant kitchen top about 2inches thick. Would this be suitable to take the plaster board as it is ? Cheers

Martyn K12/10/2018 14:40:35
5072 forum posts
3678 photos
If the woktop is flat then it will be ok. Make sure you go up to the wall as stuff will fall down the back. Just tack the corners so you can remove it if you dont like it. Mine last about 2 to 3 years.

You can see from tne photo that i put an offcut of carboard to protect it when its being used as a work area. Its not a workbench though so you may need to think through your working procedures

fly boy312/10/2018 17:06:31
3670 forum posts
22 photos

Thanks for that Martin good advice. May I ask your method of cutting out large holes in balsa(nose section of cowl). Thanks.

Martyn K15/11/2018 17:17:29
5072 forum posts
3678 photos

I have had a break from this while I have been working on the Fury. I have learnt that mixing building on big and small models in the workshop usually ends in (my) tears.

So with the Fury wings out of the way I have continued with this over the past few days

So back on the wing..


The ailerons have been separated. I thought the cap strips on the Fury were fiddly, add the infill between the upper and lower spars on the wing and aileron was very fiddly. They took a couple of evenings. The problem was that spars were not as quite as parallel as I would have thought. Hand cut ribs eh?


Aileron servos in place. Not enough space for padding so they are simply glued down with contact adhesive. The strut mounting blocks are also visible here. They will have little wire loops and simply sprung into place. The wing is ample strong enough - it doesn't need any external bracing


Aileron horns cut from 1/32 ply and slotted into a piece if 3mm soft balsa. Now using Cyano extensively for stuff like this.

I was going to use the media from a floppy disk as sprung hinge material but as a spring it seemed just a little too flimsy but I did use it as a hinge material. I think its thin Mylar


There is a video on Facebook the shows the ailerons working here. Sorry, my phone died before I got the chance to upload it to YouTube. The aileron linkage in thin stainless steel wire. No adjustments..

Next job was to cover the ailerons and finish assembling the wing. Using Esaki Jap Tissue

Just after water shrinking, its had two thin coats of dope.


While all this was ongoing, I finished off the struts and door frame in the cabin area


and installed a 1/16 balsa radio tray.


Micron Rx and 1.4g Servos. The battery will be located to get the best CG and simply velcro'd down

The tailplane and fin have also been covered and subsequently doped and hinged


Again horns are made from 1/32 ply. They were fitted yesterday and linkages (closed loop) done last night.


Not totally happy with the way that shrank so have recovered parts of the fin


Hinges are Floppy disk Media as well. The linkage is some nice black mono-filament.

Coming along now but not likely to be finished before the end on November. Weight is creeping up as well which is a bit worrying but I should be within my target of 175gms.

More to come


Martyn K15/11/2018 21:03:07
5072 forum posts
3678 photos
Quote. Thanks for that Martin good advice. May I ask your method of cutting out large holes in balsa(nose section of cowl).

Apologies fb3. I just spotted this.

If it's a simple hole I use a wood bit but cut through from both sides so the wood doesn't get torn. Basically mark out the blank. The cowl front in this case. Drill the round holes and edges of the slots. Then using a scalpel open out the slots. I then cut the outline over size, fit and then sand it back. On my cowl I had to fit the motor first which dictated the most critical position. Before I fitted it I also hollowed out the back to try and save a little weight. I use a drum sander on the dremel for that.

Edited By Martyn K on 15/11/2018 21:06:30

Timo Starkloff15/11/2018 21:15:53
391 forum posts
883 photos

Just found your thread, Martyn. What a nice little plane! Good luck for building and flying, I’m looking forward to see it finished.


Martyn K15/11/2018 21:48:10
5072 forum posts
3678 photos
Thanks Timo.
Martyn K01/11/2019 23:29:55
5072 forum posts
3678 photos

mmm. Almost 12 months since I last posted an update. There has been some progress.

The model was covered and markings airbrushed at the beginning of the year and then put aside while my health issues were resolved.

It was resurrected a couple of weeks ago with a view to getting it finished before the end of November as I want it flown trimmed and practised with before the scale indoor Nationals in April





that was where I was up to. Unfortunately, I managed to tear the tissue on the wing and that has required a repair and a very challenging bit of airbrushing to resurrect the markings and hide the patch

CAD work on the interior has dominated activities on this model for the last couple of weeks

The interior panels are inkjet printed onto A4 paper and simply glued into place.

Controls are fabricated from Litho plate and glued onto the paper.

The console was cut using my new laser toy and then painted. Instruments simply printed on A4 paper and glued behind the holes- A very thin sheet of acetate is the instrument glass.

The original had a leather covered dash in grey which I have tried to replicate with paint. Not totally convincing though but probably OK for 1/10 scale.



upside down - sorry


The walls are a bit too green. should be more beige/grey. Switches still to be fitted, then seats and a pilot

More to come - hopefully sooner than the last gap in postings.


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