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AcroWot XL Build

A possible build thread if I'm very good at home

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cymaz18/03/2018 15:45:13
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8311 forum posts
1148 photos

If I don't put a foot wrong at home I may be allowed to get an Acrowot XL( or the Hangar 9 Vans RV-4. It's twice the price so I doubt it). I have a spare Evo 33gx

I was wondering if flaps could be installed. How easy is it? Has anyone done it? Do they make good aerobatic planes. How are they in windy weather?

I'm after a warts and all subjective opinion....or suggest another airframe nerd

Edited By cymaz on 18/03/2018 15:45:43

David P Williams18/03/2018 15:47:06
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808 forum posts
278 photos

Wots Wot XL - two wings are better than one smiley

Bob Cotsford19/03/2018 14:54:01
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7733 forum posts
431 photos

Mine had an NGH 38GF four stroke, quite a lump of a motor. Flaps - don't bother, it would be a lot of work for little gain. The AWXL floated in even better than my old kit-built AW. Aerobatic? It's an excellent sport aerobat, not 3D in my hands and not really meant for that sort of thing. As for warts, it's a typical Ripmax ARTF. Replace the clevises then glass around the engine bulkhead and the U/C mount. The covering can be variable, I had a couple of spots where the brown stuff delaminated but that was just aesthetic, nothing came loose. Most people seem to move the elevator servo to the tail with a short direct pushrod.

I liked flying the WWXL a tad more but the AWXL is quicker to assemble at the field. If I got either model again I think it would be the AWXL. To be honest I wish that I still had either of them. C'est la vie.

John Gregson 202/12/2018 19:12:56
7 forum posts

Hi Chaps, does anyone know what colour and make of film matches the orange and red colour on the Acrowot XL ARTF?

Many Thanks.....Regards....John

Richard Wills 203/12/2018 01:29:38
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160 forum posts
7 photos

Hobbyking Jayacinth Orange is a pretty good match.

Mine is about 2 years old now, still going strong, I love it. I have a Moki 210 glow on the front, and rear mounted elevator servo. With that heavy piece of Iron on the front still got loads of lead on the tail.

Only weak spot I have found it the ply undercarriage plate. it's not crazy weak, but doesn't like bad landings.

Tim Flyer03/12/2018 10:54:32
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949 forum posts
157 photos

That’s interesting Richard. Thanks for the colour match too. Did you use a single tail servo or two separate ones? I bought an Acrowot XL a while ago and plan to put it together over winter. I was wondering whether to use the pushrod or not.

John Gregson 203/12/2018 11:50:36
7 forum posts

Thanks for the colour match info Richard most useful. I have a laser 155 in mine.

Steve J03/12/2018 12:54:27
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921 forum posts
37 photos

Can anybody with a recent AcroWot XL say if Ripmax have made any changes since it was released? e.g. Have they incorporated holes for tail mounted elevator servo(s) into the design?

Steve

Tim Flyer05/02/2019 16:31:01
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949 forum posts
157 photos

047a204d-f92e-4c80-ba0f-987d59090b82.jpegHere are my latest efforts . I used two servos and snakes for the elevator. I didn’t go for tail mount this time so save adding nose ballast. The snake line is fairly straight into elevator so cables move freely. I would have preferred two tail mount servos and carbon rods but as said I don’t want more weight in the nose,

RC Plane Flyer05/02/2019 18:31:45
570 forum posts
22 photos

Hi Tim .Great effort to make a neat linkage personally from experience they are a little susceptable to not be 100% reliable and the inner snake flexing when up elevator applied. If I may suggest a little modification are you able to replace the inner snake as it leaves the outer to the clevis with a threaded rod to give some rigidity ??

Anthony Scott 205/02/2019 20:41:03
68 forum posts
12 photos

Only weak spot I have found it the ply undercarriage plate. it's not crazy weak, but doesn't like bad landings.

I am glad I am not the only one to experience this!!

Tim Flyer06/02/2019 06:06:57
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949 forum posts
157 photos

Thank you for suggesting that RC Plane Flyer but I’m afraid it’s all stuck together with epoxy so I cannot easily modify it now. As the curve is near the end of the run it might bind if I put a rod there. I agree it would have been better to have run the last 6 inches totally straight. Then I could have done that . Unfortunately the fuselage side is quite tapered at the rear so that would have meant the snake exists further towards the front of the fuselage .

Edited By Tim Flyer on 06/02/2019 06:09:23

RC Plane Flyer06/02/2019 09:34:35
570 forum posts
22 photos

Hi Again Tim having enlarged the photo i can see that the threaded connection to the clevis is well down the inner snake so not much chance of it flexing

Tim Flyer06/02/2019 10:14:57
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949 forum posts
157 photos

Cheers. RC Plane flyer ...It doesn’t flex there as brackets are stiff.. plus steel threaded rod is epoxied and buried about 2cm into the snake inner .. Only thing I’m worried a bit about is strength of plastic snake and whether it might suddenly snap in a year or so? In the past I have used metal /wood and carbon push rods but haven’t used snakes yet on a sports plane. I’m not planning to do super aggressive flying but would like to be happy strength wise. I will be replacing the wing bolts with nylon ones too as I believe the heavy steel ones are overkill. I use nylon wing bolts on most of my planes including the Wots Wot xl.

Nigel R06/02/2019 15:26:14
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2486 forum posts
406 photos

Tim, if they are Sullivan snakes, then the manufacturer rates the blue ones as suitable for elevators on models up to 10lb. That's one snake per whole elevator, however, not to each half. I would imagine that's a conservative rating and personally I can't imagine you'll have trouble with them. They also make a heavy duty (black) one for larger models, if you decide to change them out.

Tim Flyer08/02/2019 14:47:30
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949 forum posts
157 photos

Thank you Nigel i’m Pleased to hear that. I hadn’t realised they also made a heavier one too. This plane shouldn’t be more than around 13lb I at a guess .

Jon - Laser Engines08/02/2019 18:45:06
4449 forum posts
164 photos

i will see if i can motivate myself to get some photos of my AWXL over the weekend. Its coming together quite nicely and i should be able to finish all but the exhaust setup over the weekend

Paul Marsh09/02/2019 14:15:41
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3546 forum posts
983 photos

I just cant do with snakes on a largish model, also having a extra servo adds redundancy. I've done it to the Wot4XL, Acro Wot XL and the Wots Wot XL.
Leaves no slop whatsoever, and neither model required nose weight - all using large engines - in fact the battery is on the cofg.

Also, as said, I've replaced the horns with tri-horn type from Dubro. Stops stress points round the limited 2 hole fixings and adjustable.

wotswotxl

Edited By Paul Marsh on 09/02/2019 14:17:13

Tim Flyer10/02/2019 17:02:01
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949 forum posts
157 photos

That’s good Paul . I have Similar set up on my WWXL . I used a Laser 155 on that which is light and I had to offset that. I used a big 4500mah Life battery mounted on the firewall to do that . My Acrowot is powered with s Laser 180. If you are not adding nose weight your petrol engines must be heavier than my glow ones I’m yet to balance my Acrowot XL but I’m also expecting it to be spot on with no shifting kit .Almost finished now! The laser 180 fills the cowl perfectly 😊.

Edited By Tim Flyer on 10/02/2019 17:04:23

Edited By Tim Flyer on 10/02/2019 17:05:03

Jon - Laser Engines10/02/2019 17:16:09
4449 forum posts
164 photos

During a short gap in the rain today i was able to get my almost finished model together for a weigh in and quick c/g check. Mine is 13lbs 5oz ready to go minus rx battery and an exhaust for the engine. I think it will be 14lbs all up depending on how much weight i need to add to the tail. My engine is pretty beefy after all

acrowotxl.jpg

awxl engine.jpg

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