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Acro Wot build advice

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Tim Flyer04/04/2018 10:16:04
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762 forum posts
112 photos

Regarding epoxy , I find it penetrates wood very well . It just depends which epoxy you use. Regular thick epoxy “glue” as we are all familiar with does not penetrate far . However “covering epoxy “ (Deluxe” make this and its available at RC World ) does penetrate just as deeply as Aliphatic. I use West Systems epoxy for covering which is also thin and designed to be painted . It certainly penetrates balsa and ply very well. The downside with epoxy covering is that it needs painting and plenty of disposable gloves and brushes  but it is super strong and water plus fuel proof . Laminating is very useful in modelling and you can apply extra small strips of cloth in vulnerable areas such as where Wing bolts go through wings. With glass cloth this is neat and easy and it’s much tougher than film.

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 04/04/2018 10:18:17

Geoff Sleath04/04/2018 11:34:47
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2762 forum posts
202 photos

Plus one (or more!) for West epoxy. I first came across it for wooden sailing dinghy building and repairs and bought from a local sailmaker and (sailing) club-mate. When I took up aeromodelling I've continued to use it.

Geoff

Martyn K04/04/2018 11:41:51
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4632 forum posts
3257 photos

You can use Gorilla Foaming PU glue to join the two halves together. However. Take when aligning. You must align so that the wing tip sections are parallel - this doe not always mean that you will get a perfect join at the root.

I think the wing is joined flat inverted. Put identical thickness packing under the TE under each wing tip and weigh the panel down. Then measure the height of the LE from the board at the tip. It should be the same for both wing halves.

Does that make sense?

Martyn

Nigel R04/04/2018 16:11:14
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1549 forum posts
336 photos

What Martyn said regards joining.

Personally, I use PVA and several layers of glass tissue, one wide (about 10" on a 40 size model) and one half that width (so about 5" ). The thinner glass needs less (or none) sanding and/or filler to finish it.

It's all variations on a theme. The strength in the join comes from the cloth being bonded securely to the veneer and from the joins in the veneer (at the centre) being unable to level themselves apart.

 

Edited By Nigel R on 04/04/2018 16:11:34

Neil Collett09/04/2018 16:45:12
25 forum posts
55 photos

Hi All,

So have finished most of the wings, and moving onto the dreaded task of joining in the centre. I am going to make a bracket for each wing tip to sit at the right height, which should make it easier to sand the edges to sit flush against each other. Still have to the hinge the ailerons, but waiting on delivery of some nylon pinned ones to arrive.

On a side note, by beloved Challenger (my first build last year) crashed last weekend!! Just seem to lose radio signal, dive bombed into the ground and snapped in half, very gutting as all the radio gear is new from last year, and never had a problem before. It really is gut wrenching, but I guess its part and parcel of the hobby. Decided I'm going to buy another Challenger kit and will build straight after the Acro Wot smiley

img_20180409_162829.jpg

Cheers all

Edited By Neil Collett on 09/04/2018 16:51:28

Jonathan M09/04/2018 21:58:16
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470 forum posts
258 photos
Sorry to hear about the Challenger Neil. Any suspected reason why signal was lost? Fully charged TX and RX batteries? Battery lead connection? Poor RX antenna location - did you do a range test before first flight of the day?
Neil Collett09/04/2018 22:09:09
25 forum posts
55 photos
Posted by Jonathan M on 09/04/2018 21:58:16:
Sorry to hear about the Challenger Neil. Any suspected reason why signal was lost? Fully charged TX and RX batteries? Battery lead connection? Poor RX antenna location - did you do a range test before first flight of the day?

No range check before, which should have been done, so my bad, although the model was about 250ft away when it seemed to lose radio signal, which being fairly close I don't think it could be that, but you never know. I had put new batteries (4xAA) in the TX, I say new, but had been sitting in the garage for about 6 months, they were reading 5.8 Volts, but I'm wondering there could have been a voltage drop, enough to lose signal for a couple of seconds.

least likely is a wing servo wire got caught round the servo and stopped it.

I'm going to buy a lipo pack for my Spektrum DX6 as I don't trust AA batteries anymore.

Jonathan M09/04/2018 22:19:18
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470 forum posts
258 photos
DX6 black or older DX6i? If the latter, then consider rechargeable Eneloop NiMh AA cells with a dedicated smart-charger from Component Shop.

Range check a minor hassle each time, but worth doing.

Acro Wot looks like its coming together smartly. 👌
Neil Collett10/04/2018 08:51:59
25 forum posts
55 photos
Posted by Jonathan M on 09/04/2018 22:19:18:
DX6 black or older DX6i? If the latter, then consider rechargeable Eneloop NiMh AA cells with a dedicated smart-charger from Component Shop.

Range check a minor hassle each time, but worth doing.

Acro Wot looks like its coming together smartly. 👌

Its the new DX6 - I can get a lipo pack from 4-max. Yes definitely going to be doing range checks from now on - have learnt my lesson.

trebor10/04/2018 09:02:25
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1731 forum posts
213 photos

Is it he early Dx6 version dsmx/dsm2 that only has 1 antenna ?

Denis Watkins10/04/2018 09:13:26
2982 forum posts
141 photos
Posted by Neil Collett on 09/04/2018 22:09:09:
Posted by Jonathan M on 09/04/2018 21:58:16:
Sorry to hear about the Challenger Neil. Any suspected reason why signal was lost? Fully charged TX and RX batteries? Battery lead connection? Poor RX antenna location - did you do a range test before first flight of the day?

No range check before, which should have been done, so my bad, although the model was about 250ft away when it seemed to lose radio signal, which being fairly close I don't think it could be that, but you never know. I had put new batteries (4xAA) in the TX, I say new, but had been sitting in the garage for about 6 months, they were reading 5.8 Volts, but I'm wondering there could have been a voltage drop, enough to lose signal for a couple of seconds.

least likely is a wing servo wire got caught round the servo and stopped it.

I'm going to buy a lipo pack for my Spektrum DX6 as I don't trust AA batteries anrel

Keep it in mind Neil, rechargeable cells are 1.2v per cell total 4.8v

Where dry cells are 1.5v per cell total 6v

Old dry cells may be suspect, but fresh dry cells should last you the whole season

And totally reliable when the usual routine is followed

Tim Flyer10/04/2018 09:14:01
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762 forum posts
112 photos

Probably a bit late here but one short cut I like is using the wing servo mounts made by Radio Active. They are plastic and hold the servos well and  are nicely faired on top . They cost £4.20 for a pair at RC World. They come in two sizes and the larger fits most standard servos nicely . All you need to do with those is cut a box in the foam. What I did on my LA 7 was to line the box with fibreglass ( you could just stiffen it with Poly C ) and put triangular strip in the corners to screw them down.

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 10/04/2018 09:14:28

Neil Collett13/04/2018 19:45:40
25 forum posts
55 photos

Ok so have done some more on the model, no thanks to the cold weather!

So sides just about done and ready to glue together:

img_20180413_164958.jpg

I messed up a little with one of the fuselage spars and glued into the wrong place, (i'm sure the guys who have built one of these before will notice straight away) no massive problem, just had to file some down to allow the cot-pit deck to sit properly and then add another in the correct place.

Now glueing together - its very square so happy about that.

img_20180413_171055.jpg

Also managed to get some hinging done - had to do it indoors, much to the disgust of the wife I'm really happy with them so far.

img_20180413_165044.jpg

just a good old surgical knife and a ton of patience:

img_20180413_165121.jpg

Don't love these hinges, find them too flimsy, I know they will hold fine, just like working with something a little more rigid and the metal ones are too expensive for this project.

img_20180413_165114.jpg

1 Question on joining the wings (hopefully going to do next week when the weather is warmer) do you do one side first, wait for the first coat to dry and then add on the other side slightly overlapping at the leading edge?

Cheers

Nigel R13/04/2018 20:25:09
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1549 forum posts
336 photos
Glue together at root with pva or pu or epoxy or whatever.

When that is done it won't move while you're doing the bandage. One side or both together matters not which way.

Pinned hinges are good. Not sure why you would want metal hinges for any model this size?
Percy Verance14/04/2018 08:20:32
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6833 forum posts
138 photos

Neil

So far so good. One small point though. The photo showing the fuselage sides joined together has one square butted up against the engine bulkhead, which is fine. You really need another at the tail end of the fuselage where the tailplane will be glued on. I couldn't help but notice there was another small square on the bench. Doing this will ensure the sides of the fus are exactly level at the point the tail goes on. It saves a whole lot of fiddling later on if it's not square here......

I actually join my fuselages in my building jig, which also has a tailplane levelling widget built into it. Handy indeed.

Good to see the Permagrit tools there. yes  By the way Neil, there's nothing really wrong with those hinges. The actual bit with the pin in does need recessing slightly to keep the hinge gap to a minimum, but otherwise they're fine. Smear a tiny bit of vaseline on the area where the pin is before you finally glue them in. This will prevent any glue from bunging the hinge pins up. Roughen up the leaf part of the hinges before they go in Neil. 

Try and get hold of a proper hinge slotter Neil. It makes the job almost a pleasure! I think both Great Planes and Dubro both do one.

Dubro one here Neil....   www.dubro.com/products/kwik-hinge-slotter

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By Percy Verance on 14/04/2018 08:40:19

Edited By Percy Verance on 14/04/2018 08:43:03

Neil Collett14/04/2018 10:07:03
25 forum posts
55 photos

Many thanks for the advice Percy, I checked the tail end and lined up perfectly so lucky there I guess. I would like a building jig, going to have to do something heath robinson style on the work bench.

I do have the dupro hinge slotter and really didn't like it when I built my last model (challenger), just found it compressed the wood rather then making a slot, I may be doing something wrong.

trebor14/04/2018 10:53:55
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1731 forum posts
213 photos

I just use a scalpel blade attached flat onto a bit of 3 ply, then use tape to raise blade to centre line for cutting slot. Attach a bit of ply to the wing edge with clamps then slide the flat mounted blade along the line, nice shallow cuts to start with till correct depth. Then I use some stiff sandpaper pushed into the cut to open out the slot for the hinge. I gave up with those slot cutting jigs. yes

Levanter14/04/2018 11:45:52
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763 forum posts
396 photos

Neil

Nail files and nail boards are perfect for opening up pinned hinge slots.

​Levanter

Neil Collett14/04/2018 19:19:34
25 forum posts
55 photos

Hi All,

so I'm about to glue the ply cover that holds the undercarriadge, top front balsa block and front wing attachment ply plate, this would mean once the wing is seated in the correct position, there is no way to mark where the wing dowels will be to drill into the LE of the wing, as no access to the front of the wing mount plate. Am I missing something obvious here?

I'm thinking of completing the wing then seating before any of the above steps, but could this introduce issues with slight warping from glueing in the panels thus creating a wing seating problem further down the road? I hope that makes sense.

Cheers

Neil Collett14/04/2018 19:20:41
25 forum posts
55 photos
Posted by Levanter on 14/04/2018 11:45:52:

Neil

Nail files and nail boards are perfect for opening up pinned hinge slots.

​Levanter

Yes love this idea, have already grabbed the wife's, I'm sure she wont mind

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