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Acro Wot build advice

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Percy Verance14/04/2018 19:59:35
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7108 forum posts
142 photos

Hi again Neil

Hang fire before you fix the undercarriage plate in position. Get a spare bit of dowel, then use a pencil sharpener to get a reasonably good point on the end, then once you've got the wing held in it's correct position - it could be a 2 person task- you mark the wing leading edge through the former with the two holes in. Carefully drill the holes in the wing, starting with a smaller drill bit then increasing to the correct diameter for the wing dowels.

Nigel R16/04/2018 09:17:33
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1982 forum posts
368 photos

The Dubro slotters are spot on for nylon pinned hinges. They make just the right width/height slot with minimal messing about.

But.

The points of the prongs will need dressing with a dremel to make sure the point is central. They are stamped out of plate steel I think, or at least mine looks like it was, and the point is in the wrong place. With that tidied up they work brilliantly.

The naff plastic jig bits they give you, on the other hand, are fit only for the bin.

Bit of a tangent, but if you use polyprop hinges (or the flocked cyano hinges), a careful prod with a regular #2 knife blade is enough.

Nigel R16/04/2018 09:20:17
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1982 forum posts
368 photos

Oh, and what Percy said. Join the wings and get the wing saddle / dowels / bolts sorted out before you do the U/C mount - leave the fuselage open and make life easy for yourself.

Neil Collett17/04/2018 12:29:08
25 forum posts
55 photos

Thanks Percy/Nigel for the advice, have left the front open until I can glue the wings together, just waiting for it to be a little warmer.

I've come into another problem, I'v managed to get a small twist in the airframe, it's about 1mm off, it was worse but managed to straighten a little when glueing the top balsa panel - pic:

img_20180417_121208.jpg

I will try and pull out a little more when glueing the bottom panel on, but don't think it will move much now, as very stiff. Should I worry about it?

Cheers

RC Plane Flyer17/04/2018 13:01:03
528 forum posts
20 photos

Niel .it is disolutioning to get to this stage and frame out of square but you can cope with this and build the fin and elevator vertical and horizontal when you are ready

Neil Collett17/04/2018 19:48:04
25 forum posts
55 photos

Ok so got the top layer of glass completed - 1 question about filling the weave, do I need to add more resin, as in will this add more strength or can I use a lightweight filler to smooth out?

img_20180417_164959.jpg

Starting on the tailplane next:

img_20180417_165044.jpg

Percy Verance17/04/2018 20:04:14
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7108 forum posts
142 photos

As Nigel points out (no pun intended) the Dubro Hinge slotter is not a precision instrument. It is though - as mentioned earlier - most suited for the installation of pin type hinges. I sometimes use a nail file to clean up the slots before I finally commit to glue. I use Pacer (Zap) Hinge glue. Excellent stuff, and cleans up with a wet piece of kitchen roll. No awful stains on film covering either......

pacer-hinge-glue.jpg

 

 

Edited By Percy Verance on 17/04/2018 20:08:32

ken anderson.18/04/2018 09:08:51
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8229 forum posts
762 photos

hello Neil, I take you are putting an ic engine in the Wot...the ones I have built ,I have fuel proofed the entire fuel tank bay with either wing resin of left over epoxy...before fitting the top deck. Also the undercarriage mount,i add a bit of left over wing tape inside to reinforce the wood mount...it saves you in the long run/life of the model....... your wing tape weave...put some light filler in ,smooth it off.and then cover it with some masking tape(if you are covering with film) this will be sound base for the film to stick to-as it doesn't like sticking to resin....

 

ken Anderson...ne...1....Wot dept.

Edited By ken anderson. on 18/04/2018 09:11:13

Neil Collett21/04/2018 18:56:33
25 forum posts
55 photos

Thanks percy for the Hinge Glue recommendation, definitely getting some of that, hated using epoxy before.

And Ken took your advice and used some lightweight filler and then covered with masking tape, made it simple and very happy with it.

img_20180421_162622.jpg

I'm actually converting to electric, I'm waiting on a LiPo to arrive to measure and create a hatch in the bottom ply cover, really don't want to be taking off the wing every time.

Front holes drilled and about to glue in the wing retaining ply member, not sure whether to leave glueing in the dowels into the wing before or after covering!

img-20180421-wa0004.jpgthanks again all, your advice is really appreciated.

Nigel R21/04/2018 21:49:20
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1982 forum posts
368 photos
Dowels after covering.

I'd hold on until you have the lipo tray sorted out before you put the front top deck on, too.
Percy Verance22/04/2018 07:17:32
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7108 forum posts
142 photos

Regarding the actual covering itself Neil, it's easier to tackle the more fiddly areas covering those with smaller,easier to handle bits of covering. You then overlap the bigger pieces of covering onto them. It makes for a much tidier job. Put a new blade in your knife before you begin covering too, as you'll be trimming lots of little bits off here and there.....

The areas around where the tailplane is, and at the base of the fin are notoriously fiddly....... If the tail parts can be covered prior to actually being fixed in position for good, it makes the job much easier.

 

Edited By Percy Verance on 22/04/2018 07:20:41

Neil Collett23/04/2018 14:05:22
25 forum posts
55 photos

Thanks Nigel will hold off until the tray is done.

Percy I am going to cover before attaching the tailplane. I have gone down the route of Sullivan snakes, and will try to if possible to finish installing after covering, will have to cut some square holes in the bottom to give access. I have enough to make a closed loop with Sullivan snakes, is it worth doing this?

Tail plane slot cut and test fit:

img_20180423_123405.jpg

Nigel R23/04/2018 17:22:22
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1982 forum posts
368 photos

"The areas around where the tailplane is, and at the base of the fin are notoriously fiddly......."

Liberate a (clean) butter knife while you're covering. It reaches bits the iron cannot. Somewhat obviously, you need to lay it on the iron for 30 seconds to heat it up first...

"I have gone down the route of Sullivan snakes, and will try to if possible to finish installing after covering, will have to cut some square holes in the bottom to give access."

Make life easy for yourself - get the snake outers in place before you close up the fuselage underside. Unless it's too late, in which case you'll be opening it up anyway.

Snakes will need supporting, I'd say on this size model, by the servo, where they exit the fuselage and two intermediate places as well. It's a bit difficult to add those supports if the fuselage is finished up.

" I have enough to make a closed loop with Sullivan snakes, is it worth doing this?"

In a word, no. In more words, not even slightly. Just use the snakes in the usual push/pull way.

Neil Collett23/04/2018 17:34:51
25 forum posts
55 photos

No haven't glued the bottom panel yet, was thinking I might be able to create the supports and guide through once the covering was on, but will get in place and glue into position next.

Cheers

Neil Collett23/04/2018 17:35:57
25 forum posts
55 photos

No haven't glued the bottom panel yet, was thinking I might be able to create the supports and guide through once the covering was on, but will get in place and glue into position next.

Cheers

Percy Verance23/04/2018 18:56:11
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7108 forum posts
142 photos

I've even reached for my scapel and warmed that up on the iron to get small fiddly bits stuck down.....

There's little point making a closed loop out of Sullivan snakes Neil. Just support them at a few points - usally two or three - down the fuselage. Allow sufficient clearance at the servo end for the movement arc. And be mindful of the fact that Sullivan snakes are not thermally stable, so a re-trim will be needed in temperature variations......

Sullivan do some carbon (black coloured) snakes, and these are stable throughout all temperatures. I'm not sure about any effects on 2.4ghz though. I discovered this temp variation issue with Sullivan snakes back in the early 90's. It took me a little while to work out why my (then) model needed constant re-trimming. I wrote to Sullivan in the USA ( no e mail then!) and they confirmed my findings.

Edited By Percy Verance on 23/04/2018 19:01:18

Nigel R24/04/2018 09:06:49
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1982 forum posts
368 photos

As an aside to the above, snake inners make a really good guide for closed loop cables.

Just my opinion, but, I've never been too fussed about the slight trim change, certainly not on 'the average sport model' anyway. You might find it needs one click of trim either way on particularly hot or cold days.

The best (again, my opinion) setup is a forked pushrod for elevator and closed loop on rudder. It is more effort to set up compared to sing a pair of snakes.

Neil Collett25/04/2018 17:22:26
25 forum posts
55 photos

OK, so I have run into a small problem. I ended up glueing a dowel along the entire length of the elevator, I also glued in the metal u piece, the dowel was an after thought when reading the update bulletins and realised I may need to add strength here .

I have already cut the hinge slots in the dowel. Pic:

img_20180425_110544.jpg

But now the metal pin now overhangs at the far end, which gets in the way of the rudder.

img_20180425_170900.jpg

I'm guessing there are 3 options to go for, First cut a notch out of the rudder, my favourable so far. Second shorten the front of the tail fin and move forward 3mm, or third cut the metal rod out, as i would of thought the dowel would be strong enough. Any thoughts?

Edited By Neil Collett on 25/04/2018 17:24:33

ken anderson.25/04/2018 17:35:17
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8229 forum posts
762 photos

leave as is and notch the rudder...........anything for an easy life..I've seen more modified wots over the years so..a notch will make no difference to anyone...

ken Anderson...ne..1...easy life dept.

Neil Collett25/04/2018 17:44:33
25 forum posts
55 photos

Thanks Ken, An easy life it is then.

Edited By Neil Collett on 25/04/2018 17:47:11

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