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11C 213 Squadron Hurricane El Alamein 1942

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Peter Garsden13/06/2018 19:47:25
1341 forum posts
930 photos

Final job apart from the aerial is the fillet piece to the front of the wing.

Using the system explained by Andy Blackburn on the JP, I taped some rough sandpaper to the bottom of the wing, cut my piece of 1/4" to width and sanded away until it was the right shape. I have now glued it to the wing with the wing fitted.


Peter Garsden17/06/2018 22:23:51
1341 forum posts
930 photos

The pilot and exhausts arrived, and I had a bit of a surprise because:-

  1. I had prepared a deeper cockpit for the pilot than Phil had ordered, but no matter, I had to make a higher platform. It is a difficult fit which I had to attempt twice but eventually accomplished sort of in view of the twisted angle of 1/4 square supports.
  2. The exhausts were deeper than I thought. At first I thought they would fit on the surface but then looked at the plan and realised they glue into slots, so I had to cut some out, I used my balsa chisel and knife. It was easier than I feared.


The pilot comes with grey undercoat but I went for a white undercoat, which I will use for the whole model in view of my intended desert colour scheme. Sand will cover better over white.


Peter Garsden20/06/2018 18:01:01
1341 forum posts
930 photos

I have now covered the oil cooler with a base layers of 150 gram per square metre fibreglass cloth followed by some finer 80 gram cloth. I blotted off the excess, so we are now ready with a complete covering of 25gram cloth. Was hoping to finish mine by Lleyn, but now don't think I will as I won't be very popular if I do.


I am a bit concerned that I have not lined up my wing tip to take account of the washout - oh well I will just have to fly mine very fast in the turns!

Peter Garsden21/06/2018 06:57:50
1341 forum posts
930 photos

I started with some sanding sealer on the wood, which I have not used before but worked well. It dries very quickly and is organic based. I found I had to clean my brush with cellulose thinners, though maybe I could have used white spirit, or acetone.

I then followed on with 25 gram cloth, laid on with Deluxe Materials Eze Kote which is a water based type of varnish. Having tried epoxy on my X1 Flying Wing, I prefer the water based product, although you have to lay on several layers to fill the weave of the cloth.


I have used the clothes peg system suggested by Colin Waite which works well. If you don't do this the cloth can bubble at the edges

Andy Meade21/06/2018 09:43:53
2359 forum posts
614 photos

Are you not having the radiator knock off like the prototype then? surprise

Peter Garsden21/06/2018 22:31:11
1341 forum posts
930 photos

No Andy I have decided to use fibreglass to reinforce it. I have a P51D Mustang which I have treated in a similar way and the oil cooler has never come off despite heavy landings, so I figure this will survive - we will see.

I just think that if I am having a front air scoop as well which will take some of the force of a landing, then I might get away with it. Like I say we will see.

Oh and I have twisted my ailerons under steam and then by pinning down and covering in water based varnished. They have twisted giving the washout I need and line up nicely. Easier than I thought.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 21/06/2018 22:33:03

Peter Garsden23/06/2018 16:46:50
1341 forum posts
930 photos

I have now painted my pilot ready for installing. I have been studying "how to" videos, and as a result I think he has turned out quite well considering even though he has the manic stare of a Russian Secret Forces KBG Putin heavy rather than a nice friendly Tally Ho British Fighter Ace - never mind - no one is going to interview him.


Now glued the pilot into the cockpit. The actual colour for cockpit green is a bit mintier, but roughly right. I hope he won't get headaches or bilious from colour clashes.


I used some of the Tamiya Weatherwash which comes in 3 colours - grey, silver, and rust to add highlighting to the mask and to tone down the helmet. Works really well. I also used it to outline the goggles in silver and the buckles of the belt. Highly recommended. I bought it to add wear to my Tornado engine outlets.

I used it here to add wear to the engine exhausts, as you can just see.


Phil Cooke23/06/2018 21:47:06
2116 forum posts
1477 photos

Nice job with the paint brushes there Pete!! He looks the business! thumbs up

Ron Gray23/06/2018 22:14:32
924 forum posts
231 photos

I like his bikini top!

onetenor23/06/2018 23:18:58
1718 forum posts
Posted by Peter Garsden on 20/06/2018 18:01:01:

I have now covered the oil cooler with a base layers of 150 gram per square metre fibreglass cloth followed by some finer 80 gram cloth. I blotted off the excess, so we are now ready with a complete covering of 25gram cloth. Was hoping to finish mine by Lleyn, but now don't think I will as I won't be very popular if I do.

What is "Lleyn" please and why wouldn't you be popular if finished by then.?yesdevil


I am a bit concerned that I have not lined up my wing tip to take account of the washout - oh well I will just have to fly mine very fast in the turns!

Peter Garsden25/06/2018 09:25:18
1341 forum posts
930 photos

Ron - Yes, the bikini top indeed - Real Model Pilots do a cross dressing version if you ask specifically. Costs a bit more but adds some cultural diversity to the Hurricane. Well worth it in this modern age of tolerance. Don't I know it.This chap is a pit of gender confusion under the surface.

onetenor - Lleyn is the PSS event we are holding this weekend at the sites on the Lleyn Peninsula aka Abersoch. Will we see you there? Not popular? Just a throw away remark methinks, appearing keen to finish a model for the Fly-in set for September so far ahead of time - bit show offey?

Peter Garsden03/07/2018 20:04:38
1341 forum posts
930 photos

In the post this morning from Tim at Model Markings came my decals. I attempted to make my own with my vinyl cutter but the 4 colour roundels were beyond me I am afraid.

I have had to make some black lettering which I managed with the said cutter thankfully. Just one colour so fine.


Peter Garsden10/07/2018 22:57:51
1341 forum posts
930 photos

I have finally finished the masking off for the underneath of the wings and fuselage which I am doing in Luftwaffe Light Blue. Suprisingly, in rattle cans Tamiya don't make Duck Egg Blue or RAF blue, so this is the closest thing. It is the same paint I covered the underneath of the A4 with. Unfortunately, as I suspected, 1 can is not enough so I have ordered another. If it needs any more I have a pot which I can use for aibrushing to finish off.



This was preceded, of course by white undercoat which covers a lot easier than grey which I used for the A4 - it needed many more coats of course, but I have 3 cans of that.

Phil Cooke11/07/2018 11:19:10
2116 forum posts
1477 photos

Wow! First airframe to the paintshop once again Pete - did you glass all over? - good going!!

She's looking good! thumbs up

Peter Garsden15/07/2018 06:21:15
1341 forum posts
930 photos

I might be first to finish and paint, but that is because I don't add extra bits like lights, and flasks of coffee for the pilot, and a miniature edition of the Daily Mail from 1942. So lacking I am afraid.

Anyway I love your cockpit floor angled idea Phil. I had no room for any instrument panel at all. That is the disadvantage of forging ahead.

I have made good progress with masking and airbrushing. In answer to your question, I don't like conventional resin. I did try it on the X1 I made. It is more difficult to apply, and I think, adds more weight. It is stronger though. I used water based Eze Cote and applied about 3 to 4 coats. It is easier to apply over the usual 25 gram cloth. I don't think it fills the weave of the cloth as well. What do people think? Epoxy v Easycote? FIGHT.....?


This is the camouflage which I did with the airbrush free hand - actually the worms should be a bit thinner but no matter - Tamiya Nato Green, and Tamiya Masking Tape - you can't use anything else for masking.


Brown on also free hand airbrush. Went on well.


Cockpit masking came off really well - Tamiya tape again - 10mm wide in strips - took ages to apply.

Tip for builders. The plan recommends 1/16 ply for the aerial which is fine, but mine broke off - difficult to avoid when inverting the fuselage for covering and paint. You can see the remaining stub above. I am going to replace mine with some bendy plastic sheet I have left over from my Hawk kit. Can't remember what it is called but it will resist any knocks and is far better

Edited By Peter Garsden on 15/07/2018 06:25:44

Mark Kettle 115/07/2018 09:07:26
2120 forum posts
1290 photos
In the middle picture Pete, can I ask what is the colour on those chairs?

No joking aside it's looking very good Pete, and exciting in that colour scheme, cracking job!
Peter Garsden16/07/2018 07:38:46
1341 forum posts
930 photos

20180716_062107.jpgGood question Mark and very relevant - white and red. As you can imagine the workshop or hobbies room as it is entitled is a dumping ground things like spare chairs!

So - nearly finished now - transfers on - only the guns which I am going to turn in a drill then paint and the tail wheel left, then the snakes and aileron connections, balance and maiden somewhere nearby?

Oh and also the nose cone which I am going to fill with lead or as much as is needed using the usual sand mould.




Edited By Peter Garsden on 16/07/2018 07:39:38

Edited By Peter Garsden on 16/07/2018 07:41:28

Harry Twist16/07/2018 23:35:01
253 forum posts
169 photos

Looking superb that Peter - I do like the colour scheme - very striking. Ref epoxy or Ezecote - I'm doing the opposite to you - I did Ezecote on the A4, now going to try epoxy (hopefully) on the Hurricane. Good luck with the maiden when you get finished!

dirk tinck17/07/2018 00:14:14
35 forum posts
59 photos

Looks good Pete ! What colour number of tamiya did you use for the underside ?And how many cans ?(100ml)

Edited By dirk tinck on 17/07/2018 00:14:38

Peter Garsden17/07/2018 21:39:18
1341 forum posts
930 photos

Good luck with the resin Harry. Very important to scrape as much off as you can to avoid it adding weight. That is the problem with it. It will end up, however, with a harder surface, and thus tougher.

The other option of course which Tony Nijhuis uses is silver solarfilm roughed up with Primol. That is what Matt used on his prototype. It works well because it is light, and the silver shows through scratches to the surface of the paint. Worth considering

Tamiya underside paint is Luftwaffe Light Blue no AS-5 Dirk. It took 2 100ml cans.

Have glued on the tail wheel and am going to turn the guns using the drill as a lathe with needle files to create the right shape.

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