By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by CML

Lanier-Giles 202

Laser cut kit

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Erfolg17/05/2018 11:02:51
avatar
10895 forum posts
1038 photos

Whilst painting My Coverite Gee Bee D4 kit, which is taking me a long time and pretty much unsucessful. The difficulty me being rubbish with both Coverite and open structure frame work. I decided to do something else, as an addition, I have been most undecided. one minute doig one thing, then another, eventually deciding to build a kit I had.

I have put off building this kit in the past due to it having foam cored wings. It was a surprise that on examination to find no such items in the box.

The kit is some +10 years old, a very early laser cut kit, which shows up in that the cutting is great. What has not been grasped, was the self aligning interlocking nature of later kits and the ARTF models. This results in you needing to keep things aligned by CL and other guides. Al;though the instructions suggest that this is not necessary.

There are both a set of instruction sheets with photos and a very good plan.

Si it is eins, zvei, drie and loss!

wp_20180516_11_37_46_pro.jpg

wp_20180516_11_37_33_pro.jpg

wp_20180516_11_37_33_pro.jpg

Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator17/05/2018 11:56:47
avatar
Moderator
15335 forum posts
1409 photos

The Giles 202 is a very pretty little aerobat Erf - should make a nice model. I'm not familar with the kit, what size is it?

BEB

Erfolg18/05/2018 20:29:01
avatar
10895 forum posts
1038 photos

 

BEB it is 48" span.

Yesterday I had some problems with the pictures.

wp_20180516_11_37_46_pro.jpg

wp_20180516_11_53_29_pro.jpg

wp_20180516_21_02_23_pro.jpg

wp_20180517_09_51_13_pro.jpg

The finger jointing is not so precise that you can just insert the pieces and glue them, and the result being true.

I have been using a number of methods to achieve alignment from straight edges, paper to obtain 90 degrees.

The same is true of the formers and side pieces, which is the stage which I have now reached.

Progress will now slow dramatically as being pre-electric flight, on any significant scale, it is designed for IC. That is no easy access to load and unload Lipos etc. I am starting to design a hatch which I have seen on a number of Extra type big IC and electric models.

 

Edited By Erfolg on 18/05/2018 20:31:02

Erfolg23/05/2018 11:20:54
avatar
10895 forum posts
1038 photos

So far the model has gone together remarkably fast. Everything is spot on, no adjustments have had to be made.

I have just copied the canopy access as used on many similar models.

wp_20180522_21_01_00_pro.jpg

wp_20180522_21_01_09_pro.jpg

wp_20180522_21_01_31_pro.jpg

wp_20180522_21_01_53_pro.jpg

I now need to order a motor and a few other things.

In the meantime i will start on the wings.

Erfolg24/05/2018 18:15:44
avatar
10895 forum posts
1038 photos

Just started on the wing.

The spars are balsa, in the past I would have replaced them for spruce items, now, it is a pain, having to travel, or to order them via the internet. So they say as they are.

wp_20180524_18_07_37_pro.jpg

Adrian Smith 124/05/2018 19:14:52
avatar
1905 forum posts
617 photos

Very interesting build Erfolg. Watching with interest. I used to have a larger ARTF Giles 202 by Flair/CMPRO and loved it to bits - literally! Anyway nice to see a really detailed build. thumbs up

Erfolg30/05/2018 21:41:58
avatar
10895 forum posts
1038 photos

Just a few pictures as to where I am now up to.

wp_20180526_23_27_42_pro (2).jpg

wp_20180530_20_55_41_pro.jpg

wp_20180530_20_56_59_pro.jpg

wp_20180530_20_57_14_pro.jpg

I am pretty impressed, in many aspects of the kit.

The first is that all the parts fit and appear to be correct.

The second the tabbing system for the wings keeps the wing pretty much spot on. In the past with kits, I have needed to do quite a bit of work to get things aligned, level and so on.

Wilth this kit, it does appear to be all that kits of the past and some recent ones have promised, but never delivered. It really just goes together so far.

I now have a problem, where I hope and hopefully not in vain, that some one comes up with a solution to my longer term problem. This problem is that I intend using a film covering. The full size aircraft was a all composite, so it seems. From recent experience, the thin film i use will not produce a smooth finish over the stringers. I need to cover this area with something to provide a support, that when covered with film, will look as it possibly could be a composite. I not that ARTF models often get over the issue using a very thick film or a plastic sheave over which the film is applied. At worst i will use 1/32" balsa sheet to achieve a similar effect,. Any ideas?

Rich too02/06/2018 06:21:41
avatar
2667 forum posts
1012 photos

Nice progress yes

Personally, I’m not bothered about scale but the balsa sheet should work fine. What are you using for power ? Please, not electric ! wink

cymaz02/06/2018 06:28:02
avatar
7633 forum posts
981 photos
Posted by Rich too on 02/06/2018 06:21:41:

Nice progress yes

Personally, I’m not bothered about scale but the balsa sheet should work fine. What are you using for power ? Please, not electric ! wink

Plans show a glow motor of some sort...you may be in luck. What do you say Erfolg??

Erfolg06/06/2018 17:30:02
avatar
10895 forum posts
1038 photos

Oh most defiantly electric!

cymaz06/06/2018 18:37:34
avatar
7633 forum posts
981 photos
Posted by Erfolg on 06/06/2018 17:30:02:

Oh most defiantly electric!

sad

Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator08/06/2018 11:08:59
avatar
Moderator
15335 forum posts
1409 photos
Spot on decision Erf, who wants a slimy aeroplane?
BEB
Nigel R08/06/2018 12:39:32
avatar
1286 forum posts
284 photos

That went together fast!

Looks very nice Erfolg.

What sort of power setup are you going for?

Re: balsa spars, I have never used anything different, with never a problem. On this size model with a full sheeted wing you could probably do away with the spar completely.

Erfolg08/06/2018 18:05:54
avatar
10895 forum posts
1038 photos

Nigel

You are correct, so far it has gone together fast. Particularly when you consider that I have been in Barcelona for 7 days,

The similar concept Balsacraft FW 190 took much longer.

The one issue with the Lanier kit is that not everything self jigs to a 90 degree angle. Everything else has been spot on. In general there is one part, if one part does the job. Some kits have to many, many old kits seem to skimp on parts. An example is the Sterling kit I built, not enough turtle deck formers or stringers, giving that starved horse look.

I have a few non modeling jobs (that means building) to do, so progress may slow quite a bit. Also the Gee Bee is taking some effort to get near to a colour finish.

Rich too10/06/2018 07:14:16
avatar
2667 forum posts
1012 photos
Posted by Erfolg on 06/06/2018 17:30:02:

Oh most defiantly electric!

crying

Erfolg20/06/2018 22:18:19
avatar
10895 forum posts
1038 photos

Thwarted by high wind here in the NW, so no flying today. I have done a little more on the Giles.

wp_20180620_22_00_49_pro.jpg

wp_20180620_22_01_38_pro.jpg

Now this is where it gets boring for me. I have all the big bits done. It is the details, the small items. The final fitting out of stuff.

Erfolg04/07/2018 10:44:30
avatar
10895 forum posts
1038 photos

All of the major components are now produced. That is the wings, tail group and the body. with the motor in situ.

Now it is all about fitting out all of the time consuming bits and pieces, prior to covering, another major step.

It is at this juncture that I start thinking very seriously about where the Lipo will go, servo location and the routes for the control snakes.

wp_20180703_21_42_28_pro.jpg

with the CG marked, I then considered where the Lipo needed to be. Much to my amazement, the model was nose heavy, when the Lipo was placed where I had been planning to locate it. That is in the boxed area where the fuel tank would normally go. Placing the Lipo to obtain a reasonable ballance I found that the Lipo would need to be at the rear of the cabin area.

wp_20180704_09_46_54_pro.jpg

Taking the top of it is apparent how shallow the area is here, Also that my old standard servos Futaba S100 & 128 are to tall. This indicates that much shallower servos will be needed. I have considered putting them in the space just forward of where they are presently placed, although the Lipo would need to go further back. Plus there is an issue with respect to the ease of making adjustments and maintenance

 

Edited By Erfolg on 04/07/2018 10:45:47

Bob Cotsford04/07/2018 11:33:47
avatar
7268 forum posts
415 photos

It sounds like a good reason to put the servos under the tailplane Erf. Ideally a pair of mini or mg micro ones.

Erfolg04/07/2018 17:08:21
avatar
10895 forum posts
1038 photos

I think you are correct Bob.

More often than not these days I prefer rear mounted servos. Primarily as the a short push rod can be used.

Perhaps my other preference these days is to use the old model Futaba servos, they may not have the muscle of many modern servos. When I am flying, it is not the servos, that betray a poor flight, it is not even the Tx.

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find RCM&E! 

Email News - Join our newsletter

Love Model Aircraft? Sign up to our emails for the latest news and special offers!

Support Our Partners
Airtek Hobbies
Gliders Distribution
Slec
CML
Expo Tools 14 July
electricwingman 2017
Overlander
Wings & Wheels 2018
Advertise With Us
Sarik
Latest "For Sale" Ads
What is the main brand of transmitter you use? (2018)
Q: What is the main brand of transmitter you use?

 FrSky
 Futaba
 Graupner
 HiTec
 Jeti
 JR
 Multiplex
 Spektrum
 Other

Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us