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Who wants to share a new Flair Baronette build?

Iím going o build my Flair Baronette, probably electric and we havenít seen a completed thread for a few years with this kit; letís change that!

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Graham Ashby (Editor)01/08/2018 21:40:26
108 forum posts
124 photos
2 articles

Hi Simon,

I was just passing so I thought I'd pop in to say that it's lovely to see a Baronette build going on. I have a 30 year old example which I've been flying for about 15 years now and I still love it to bits. It gets a a bit of TLC every now and again and just keeps going. Flies beautifully on its O.S. 40FP. With a dustbin silencer you can barely hear it over the noise of the electric models.

I'll keep an eye on your build.


Paul Marsh02/08/2018 09:55:47
4015 forum posts
1212 photos

I built one a few years ago. Has a OS 40FS in it.

Tomtom3902/08/2018 10:28:01
691 forum posts
1 photos

I have two spare kits. Happy to sell one if any one wants to build one . May also be able to lay my hands on a used OS 48/52 four stroke to go with it.  Please PM.

Edited By Tomtom39 on 02/08/2018 10:29:56

Simon Knight03/08/2018 07:41:29
216 forum posts
408 photos

It's nice to hear about your DR1 and how well they have served you over the years, I just hope mine does the same.

progress has been made and lessons hopefully learned. Before gluing the lower wing I this time made sure i had all of the parts cut and identified, to the best of my knowledge and laid out on the plan as a double check. I think I have now got a better understanding of using the side and plan views together and t his time, the centre wing section pieces are a little more obvious. The TE piece glues upright to the back balsa and the wooden block is provided but needs shaping. I won't sheet the top section until ready to start the fuselage fitting.



Not quite yet sure how the fillet fits to the wing and plywood that is cut into the LE edge but I'm sure it will become clearer when up against the fuse.

There will now be a short intermission in build progress while we go away for the week, but at least the 3 wings are now 90% there. Thank for the help so far, I'm sure I'll be calling again soon. But is there anyone else building this model now?


Former Member08/08/2018 18:22:28

[This posting has been removed]

Richard Rogers 210/08/2018 01:12:59
3 forum posts

Hi Guys noticed the comment on ground looping. I posted my experiences of this a while back. I built a Baronette, I think in the late 90s fitted with well used OS 48 fs. Great in the air but ground loops were horrendous. The first flight was like an "I've been framed" it literally did u turn and finished in ditch. I did consider fitted a single axis gyro on the rudder. The solution that worked for me was the wire in a tube method. Instead of allowing the wheels to rotate on the fixed piano wire axle, use a piece of brass tube that is a good but free rotating fit over the piano wire axle, solder the tube to the undercart, insert the axle and solidly FIX the wheels to the axle. This obviously stops them rotating independently. I used brass collets as normal then drilled through them into the wheel and inserted an epoxied pin. The wheels are now locked to the piano wire axle and the whole thing rotates inside the firmly soldered brass tube. I found the torque steer was about the same then as a "normal" model as long as you were gentle with the throttle. You must line it up accurately on landing as with little or no steering it tends to wander once on the ground, but this is a minor irritation. Hope his helps.

Edited By Richard Rogers 2 on 10/08/2018 01:25:39

Robert Parker10/08/2018 09:32:52
975 forum posts
1321 photos

Hi Simon,

Just came across this thread and though I'd share my experiences of the Baronette.

I built mine 14 years ago and the build was just like any other Flair scout kit except for the additional wing, covered in red solartex and powered by a two stroke of somekind.

However, the maiden flight was I'm afraid her last flight, due to not ideal ground conditions (longish grass) I pulled her off the ground too early and she porposed a while I struggled with her, maybe I had the CoG incorrect the end result was that she nosed in from around 20ft. On looking at the wreckage I was presented with 6 wings and a fuselage in pieces all of which went into a bin bag.

Hope your build goes well and have many happy flights I will be watching this build blog.



Edited By Robert Parker on 10/08/2018 09:35:43

Simon Knight14/08/2018 20:33:40
216 forum posts
408 photos

Good evening all, family holiday complete and back on to the build.

Have decided to do the tail feathers first and they seem pretty straight forward, indeed the instructions just say follow the plans so I have. Did them over the last 2 evenings and they don't take long, just need to be patient while the glue hardens nicely and do some basic finishing. I will do the LE shaping at a later date as want to move on to the fuse and see how the wings fit and get an idea of AUW to work on what power gear i need. I'm hoping the weight won't be far off my DVII or thereabouts.

I did wonder why the surfaces are built with such thick balsa, 6mm, when looking at my previous kits which are of very similar wingspan and they are a good couple of mm thinner which I assume would save weight too.

Anyway, sticking to the plans they are done for now. Hopefully move on to the fuse tomorrow.



Edited By Simon Knight on 14/08/2018 20:34:01

Bustergrunt15/08/2018 10:03:13
161 forum posts
33 photos

I’ve just acquired a mostly built one and am in the process of conversion to electric too

Simon Knight15/08/2018 10:06:22
216 forum posts
408 photos

Excellent, will be interested to see how you do and what set up you use. I am hoping I can continue to use my 3s3300 lipos that I use in the DVII I have.

Bustergrunt15/08/2018 10:13:44
161 forum posts
33 photos

I’m using 4s plus a scale prop ... 70 amp esc and a Hobby King ‘46’ motor turning at @460kv

Charles Galloway15/08/2018 11:44:49
101 forum posts
29 photos

Unfortunately I wrote mine off a couple of months ago, my fault, too slow turning back into wind and stalled it in. It flew really well on 3S and a cheap emax motor. The ground handling wasn't as bad as many people are saying. I tended to get it airborne quickly but then climb out slowly to look more scale like. I intend to build another from the plans.

Bustergrunt15/08/2018 12:13:31
161 forum posts
33 photos
Posted by Bustergrunt on 15/08/2018 10:13:44:

I’m using 4s plus a scale prop ... 70 amp esc and a Hobby King ‘46’ motor turning at @460kv

Whoops, make that 420Kv....just tested it on an 18/6.....CRIKEY, it’s a bit drafty

Simon Knight18/08/2018 18:26:00
216 forum posts
408 photos

Well progress is slow this week as we have had visitors etc, but the fuse is taking shape now. I have also ordered components for the power and controls. I'll be using a 3547 800kv with 45A ESC turning a 14x7 prop all powered by a 3300mah lipo. That combo is a recommended setup for the larger and heavier SE5a so am hopeful. Also checked and the battery will fit upright in the front compartment of the fuse so will help with CofG and means I just need to build in an access hatch; hopefully!

img_2410 (edited).jpg

Simon Knight21/08/2018 19:47:27
216 forum posts
408 photos


A little more progress this week and I have only had to cut my finger from the balsa once this time; soon I’ll have no fingerprints left!


I have given up trying to follow the instructions in any particular order now and am building as much off plan than following the guidance. For me, there isn’t enough detail in them as it assumes higher skill and competency. Getting there though and I have learned to read a little more in advance too rather than line by line.


I have done more to the lower and middle wing and they now fit into the fuse which also has had more added. This actually seems to be a little more straightforward at the moment. The wing plan and bolt points etc make a lot more sense now they are matched up to the fuse and I have been able to position things better.


Only error on my part was adding the middle wing planking I have stuck it to the top surface of F10, not butted it against, so when adding the stringers to the tail, there is a step up to where the cockpit will be. My plan is to attach a little sheet balsa over the stringers so that the step blends more subtly.


I now need to do a lot more sanding on the stringers, and tail feather leading edges and also add the rest of the fuse pre cut parts to form a more rounded structure. May do that this evening and avoid waking my little boy with the sanding noise or have a glass of wine and do it tomorrow.

Edited By Simon Knight on 21/08/2018 19:49:54

Simon Knight22/08/2018 20:40:16
216 forum posts
408 photos

Ok some sanding done, tail feathers now have rounded LE and the fuse extra ribs have been smoothed too. I have now expoxied the firewall to the fuse. I won't be using that battery setup, just a useful weight.

29Whilst this is setting I've marked out the scallops in the lower and middle wing ready for cutting tomorrow. I have noticed whilst doing this and looking at photos of DR1 that the middle wing in this model is actually incorrect as it doesn't have a cut away alongside the cockpit and actually on this model, the cockpit will have to be placed forward of the normal position, so it will be under the upper wing alot more that the real thing. I note that some of you have actually made the cut outs in this middle wing, but for this size, I think I'll leave it be.

28I have also noted today that this model has single cabanes left and right on the fuse, but the actual aircraft has twins! I may look to see if I can fix something up, but if not will let it be after all, this is not a scale model wink

Bob Cotsford22/08/2018 22:06:29
8554 forum posts
477 photos

I slit the supplied cabane strips and used them to make up an inverted V approximating the DR1. I didn't bother with the middle wing cutouts and nobody ever mentioned it wink. I originally flew mine with an OS 35FP, later converted to a 2815(iirc) motor and 50A esc running off a 4S LiFe pack. One day I'll resurrect it, maybe with a hatch between wing and cowl to make using LiPo more practical.

Simon Knight26/08/2018 18:15:02
216 forum posts
408 photos

Ok so a little more progress to report. I have now sheeted the fuse and it went ok after a bit of sanding.


To make the battery hatch I started with a solid sheet of balsa but it was taking too long and probably weight I don't really need, so I went for a more traditional style which just needs the magnets or some form of holding it in place to be added. Then I need to make something inside the bay to hold the battery in place.


Next was to fit the wings to see how they sit to get an idea for fixing the anchor point on the lower wing. She now is looking the part and it has encouraged me to keep going; not that I was going to stop.


As Bob has said above, I too have split the centre cabanes to give the model little more scale touch, but I won't be cutting into the middle wing.


And then finally today, I got the Dremel out for ease and cut in the scallops (?) which sealed nicely with a bit of CA where the TE separated and cut the first draft cockpit; may need to extend it or alter the shape once the pilot arrives from training.


Next is to look at installing the electrics. Covering is ordered, white, which will be painted in satin black. I'm putting off cutting the aluminium cowl at the moment.

Edited By Simon Knight on 26/08/2018 18:16:33

Simon Knight30/08/2018 23:17:34
216 forum posts
408 photos

Ok, so not quite installed the electrics just yet, but the wing servo mounts are done and I decided to cover the tail feathers to make it feel like more progress and also do something that I think is one of the best parts of building a model.

My covering is ordered from that store HK and was waiting for it to arrive so decided to use some left overs as a trial for covering and painting. Used the gloss white but it appears my iron is tainted from the olive green of my solartex on the Pup. Good job I plan to paint.


This was an excellent opportunity to try out the Halfords grey primer and see how it copes. Pleased to say that whilst there is no picture of the grey, having applied the satin black (Halfords again;I don't work for them nor am i sponsored, yet!!) on top, I am very happy with the way it takes and the overall finished effect. I think the whole aircraft covered like this will look very nice. smiley


Simon Knight02/09/2018 21:24:03
216 forum posts
408 photos

A bit more covering over the weekend and some trial and error frustrations when it came to adding the markings too.

Covered the lower wing and planned on painting it then adding Solarfilm markings afterwards. However, they would not settle nicely over the ribs and kept wrinkling which looked really bad. In the end. I decided to cut away the first covering and reapply white. Using Solarfilm stencils I then sprayed the black, removed the Solarfilm and was left with a much neater white cross n which to apply the black crosses. All seems to look much nicer and I will just need to take the shine off with some satin/matt varnish later.


I am also using up old bits of covering as we go, especially as they are just going to get painted anyway.



Definitely getting there and will do the rest of the electrics this week all being well.


Oh as an aside, the scallops in the TE may look nice, but what a pain they are to cover!!

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