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Adventures with a Limbo Dancer

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Geoff Sleath20/08/2018 20:19:28
3201 forum posts
247 photos

I have a throttle disable switch on all my electric models (coupled with a voice warning) but I'm still not over keen on needing to get my hands anywhere near a potentially lethal prop. On the Limbo Dancer it's more than just fitting the battery when there's a few elastic bands (6 in my case) to fit so I like the option of connecting a ready to fly model. On my DB DH60 Moth I have an arming connector on one of the motor connections, accessible in the front cockpit because fitting the battery necessitates hand/prop proximity.

The esc is hardly noticeable fitted between the u/c legs. It's untidy anyway (and underneath).


jeffrey cottrell20/08/2018 21:57:00
51 forum posts
3 photos

Hi Geoff

Sound like you have a double layer of protection, always a good idea. I think we have to accept that it is impossible to prevent accidents completely, either through mechanical failure or human error.
Best we can do is minimise the chances.
For me, I have been flying helis for so long, all of which have TH as normal, that it has become second nature to use them, to the extent that it feels odd, even with fixed wing, not to have to switch it off before committing aviation.

My thoughts anyway


Nigel R21/08/2018 10:23:24
2483 forum posts
406 photos

instead of throttle hold - I changed my DX6i's push button throttle cut, for a toggle switch. Works very well. It needs to be enabled for each model memory, but, when switched in, the throttle stick is completely dead. I now find it odd that the set didn't come with a toggle as standard.

Brilliant safety feature for electrics, I think.

jeffrey cottrell21/08/2018 12:09:09
51 forum posts
3 photos

Hi Nigel

Neat solution, I like it.

I did mine using the free mixers and a bit of lateral thinking. Advantage is I can assign the mixer to any of the switches, so I have my aircraft throttle hold in exactly the same position as my heli ones.
If I need it in a hurry, know where to go.

One odd thing.
Most of the transmitters I use seem to have a built in TH but only for heli mode.
While back I bought a Flysky FS-i6, mostly to see if a real budget tx could be any good.
This has TH built in as well, but useable for all model modes, not just helis.
Score one for Flysky.
In fact I am finding this to be a pretty impressive piece of kit all round. Not bad for £29


jeffrey cottrell22/08/2018 19:28:46
51 forum posts
3 photos

Hi Guys

Must be doing something right, this is starting to be fun.
Just come back from a test with a 13 x 4 prop. Vertical is now straight off the ground and almost to the cloudbase before discretion and eyesight got the better of me.
Also switched in full throws on aileron and elevator. Rolls are now very crisp and fast, but stop dead when I centralise the controls.
Loops are virtually in its own length, which is what I was aiming for when I built it, and inverted requires very little or no down.
Pretty close, I think, to the sweet spot.
Just a couple of things to think about.
I could move the c/g back another 10mm. that would put it at 130mm which is probably as far back as I want to go. Not sure the effect will be more than marginal, but could try it and see.
Also need to do something about the landings.
Not that they're an issue, just that once the model is in ground effect it seems to float on for ever. Takes up half the field just to get it down. Might try some flap mixed in.

Anyway, so far very happy with results. Thanks to all for your ideas and suggestions. Much appreciated.


P.S. Almost finished the re-charge. Looks like average current has gone down a little. Not what I expected with the bigger prop.

onetenor22/08/2018 19:47:45
1884 forum posts

What did you expect Jeff

onetenor22/08/2018 20:05:28
1884 forum posts

I wouldn't use a toggle that can be accidentally tripped by a shirt or coat sleeve or even an errant finger. I would use a sliding or better still a rotary switch.

jeffrey cottrell22/08/2018 22:15:13
51 forum posts
3 photos

Hi onetenor

First of all, I would expect the current drawn to have risen a little. Not because of the different prop in normal flight, that's a very subjective thing, but because I did 3 or 4 full bore climbouts from ground to cloudbase, to check the improved vertical performance. They're known to be amp eaters.

Tells me what I need to know. My benchmark is 7 min flights. This time I had 7 mins of hooligan and the recharge put back in 2038 Ma. This is on a 3000 Ma pack, so the safe (80%) level is 2400.

I know I have enough for a good flight, and enough in reserve for a go-around if necessary.

Second, can't agree about using a rotary switch. For an accidental spool up, you would need to accidentally bump the switch, then accidentally bump the throttle stick to get a fire up.

Don't think we will ever remove risks completely, but that's a whole order of magnitude better. Balance this against the fact I am using and existing switch, so don't need to do any surgery, and all my plane and heli transmitters have the same switch in the same position, I would think that good enough.


Martin Harris22/08/2018 23:59:29
8301 forum posts
210 photos

I use a locking toggle switch (lift before operation) to reduce the possibility of accidental arming of the throttle, coupled with a requirement for the switch to be in the safe position before the transmitter will operate.

Of course it's possible to mis-operate the switch after initial operation but it isn't possible to protect against the worst of human stupidity and misadventure - just accept that you're not immune and reduce the chances of falling victim to them!

jeffrey cottrell29/08/2018 21:35:21
51 forum posts
3 photos

Hi Guys

Had the limbo Dancer out for a play this afternoon.

My field is quite small, with surrounding trees, so the landing approach is quite steep. Spent the time practising finals to try to work out the best line to come in on.
One thing I like about electric is that after a low slow pass down the field you can bang the throttle open and get instant thrust. Very reassuring.
Anyway, did a 10 minute flight, rather than my normal 7, but mostly at half throttle rather than 'hooligan' setting.
After the flight a recharge put back in 1859 Ma so well within the comfort zone for a 3000 Ma LiPo but boils down to an average current of only 11a.
My soldering iron takes more that that!
One thing I did find was that the esc was a little warm at the end. Kinda doubt it's because of excess current, but I do know that they don't like running at part throttle for extended periods.
Anyway, may be time to get some ventilation in there.

We'll see


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