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Hawker Fury Mk1 Replica, K1930 (OO-HFU)

60" RC Hawker Fury Mk 1

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Martyn K31/10/2018 10:33:07
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4712 forum posts
3371 photos

I use Linseed Oil to make the plan transparent. It works a treat and has the benefit of making the plan non stick. It also smells nice and workshoppy

Martyn

Richard Mallam.31/10/2018 15:17:42
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31 forum posts
3 photos

Hi Andy, I have just asked Danny this question, but as he is going electric and I am (like you) going IC, where will you be positioning your servos for the rudder and elevators, since you say that you have a fuel tank which fits nicely behind the firewall?

Thanks Richard

Andy Sephton 131/10/2018 19:20:04
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87 forum posts
129 photos

I'm aiming to get four (or three if I can't fit four in) servos immediately behind the firewall. The fuel tank only takes up half the vertical space in the first bay, so there's more than adequate room for the servos. If I can, I'll squeeze the flight battery in alongside the tank. I want to keep the heavy stuff as far forward as I can to reduce the need for nose ballast.

The four servos are because I want to have a servo on each elevator so that I can use differential elevator to enhance the roll rate as it is, reportedly, quite slow. The full-size was similar.

The receiver will fit into the cockpit area with a suitable switch.

Andy Sephton 131/10/2018 19:20:44
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87 forum posts
129 photos

 

 

Edited By Andy Sephton 1 on 31/10/2018 19:21:14

Andy Sephton 101/11/2018 09:20:20
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87 forum posts
129 photos

The two lower wing panels are now off the board; they both need work but they'll do to set up the centre-section.

My building board is too small for the complete wing, so I'm using a couple of balsa blocks to prop up the wing at the correct dihedral angle. The spars and leading edge at the centre-section have been jigged up with scrap 1/8" and the TE with scrap 1/4". I've started to build up the two spars using 1/8" x 1/4" spruce and scrap 1/4" balsa to fill. I've also added the LE dihedral braces, B4. On a first look the 1/16" ply dihedral braces are a mite too long, but I'll pare those down before I fit them, which will be after the current work is dry.

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img_7366.jpeg

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Andy Sephton 101/11/2018 18:34:38
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87 forum posts
129 photos

I was in communication with Danny this afternoon when he asked me to post how I'd jigged the centre-section and outer wing panels. The centre-section spars, LE and TE were blocked up with scrap balsa as in the previous post. I worked out the position of the dihedral support block by cutting a length of balsa to 1 7/8", the height of the lower wing tip at the correct dihedral angle. Taking one wing panel, I blocked the spars off the bench at the root by 1/8". Had the root rib been fitted, it would then be just touching the building board. I blocked the tip up by 1 7/8", then slid the block along the wing until it touched. The position was marked and then used to support the wing panels at the correct angle.

As soon as the spars in the above post were dry, I removed most of the pins, shaved the edge of the ply dihedral braces to fit, and glued them in position. The photos show them clamped in place. The second photo show a dry fit of the rear centre-section ribs.

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Danny Fenton01/11/2018 18:39:12
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8764 forum posts
3624 photos

looking good Andy, and thx for the detail

Cheers

Danny

Andy Sephton 106/11/2018 06:55:01
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87 forum posts
129 photos

I've been working slowly but steadily on the lower wing centre-section since the last post. I was stuck for a method of jigging the parts and after much thought, decided to build the centre part over the plan. It's constructed from 1/8" ply, so pinning was out. In the end, I opted for my trusty engineers squares and some steel bar stock that's been hanging around the workshop for some time. There's a centre-section assembly under there somewhere:

img_7387.jpeg

This is what it looks like right side up, but with the weights and supports removed:

img_7388.jpeg

And this is how it was built, upside down over the plan with a 1/16" support strip under the front end to allow the ply plates at the rear to lie flat on the plan. I'm grateful to Danny for reminding me (before the glue had fully dried) that the open areas go on the outside. They are there as rebates for the UC leg and mounting brackets.

img_7390.jpeg

The next pic shows the above assembly glued in place. I needed to shim the spar with a piece of 1/64" ply as the centre-section assembly was a mite too small chordwise. I'm not sure why this occurred as the parts were laser cut and the spar position should be constant throughout.

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Next job was to add the rear ribs:

img_7397.jpeg

The front ribs were next. The full length ones required 1/64" shaving off to fit (so it must have been the front spar that was too far forward!). The outer ribs needed a further 1/4" shaving off for the dihedral brace - this was not shown on the plan.

img_7416 2.jpeg

 

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The balsa ribs were then cut to length and added at the root of the wing panels

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Leaving me with:

img_7424.jpeg

and finally, the gap between the ply centre-section ribs at the spar positions was filled with some scrap 3/32" balsa to give support to the 1/16" covering that will be fitted later.

img_7426.jpeg

I has planned to put a Laser 70 in the model, but with so much advice saying that it won't be powerful enough, I needed an alternate. A visit to the Gildings Model Engine Auction last Saturday saw me returning with a Laser 150 (and several other goodies...). I'll still fit the 70, but the 150 is there, just in case.

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The engine auction turned out to be a great day out with like-minded mates with bargains for all of us in the form of engines, kits, modelling wherewithal, tools and ready built models. I'd recommend that you join us next year ...... but if I did and you took up the offer, you might end up bidding against me.....

 

Edited By Andy Sephton 1 on 06/11/2018 07:00:28

Danny Fenton06/11/2018 07:10:16
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8764 forum posts
3624 photos
Fabulous post Andy, that makes that part of the wing very clear for those of us yet to tackle this part.
Cheers
Danny
Andy Sephton 107/11/2018 18:46:29
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87 forum posts
129 photos

I've used relatively hard 1/16" balsa for the sheeting and Aliphatic Resin for the adhesive. 3" sheets go round the curves quite nicely, held in place with 1/8" scrap balsa, clamps and pins.

img_7438.jpeg

img_7439.jpeg

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When dry, the pins, clamps and scrap balsa was removed and the front end flattened using a sanding block.

img_7442.jpeg

The 1/4" balsa LE could then be stuck and pinned in place.

img_7443.jpeg

When dry, I shaped the LE using a razor plane and sanding block. The ply fuselage doubler was used as a handy guide to the shape.

img_7457.jpeg

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...and finally, I couldn't resist a quick trial fit in the fuselage, which I was quite pleased with!

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Next job will be the lower wing seating in the fuselage, which will allow me to progress with the latter.

Danny Fenton07/11/2018 20:15:03
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8764 forum posts
3624 photos

Lovely work Andy, great to see everything is lining up.

Cheers

Danny

Richard Mallam.09/11/2018 14:23:25
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31 forum posts
3 photos

Hi Andy, one of your pics shows a Slim Corona CS-239MG analogue servo overlaid on the side profile of the upper wing. Is this the servo that you intend installing? I have bought a couple, but am having second thoughts as some of the reviews are not great...

Richard

Andy Sephton 109/11/2018 18:16:30
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87 forum posts
129 photos

Posted by Richard Mallam. on 09/11/2018 14:23:25:

Hi Andy, one of your pics shows a Slim Corona CS-239MG analogue servo overlaid on the side profile of the upper wing. Is this the servo that you intend installing? I have bought a couple, but am having second thoughts as some of the reviews are not great...

Richard

That was my intention Richard, can you point me at the reviews or give more detail, please?

Richard Mallam.09/11/2018 18:55:19
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31 forum posts
3 photos

Andy, I am probably unnecessarily concerned as most are positive, but this review, albeit not on the exact same model, alarmed me somewhat. If Corona have a standard manufacturing processes which can produce this sort of review, do we have an issue?

http://www.rcmodelreviews.com/ds538mg_review.shtml

Ken Lighten09/11/2018 19:21:48
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231 forum posts
34 photos

To be fair Richard that review is almost 8 years old, lots of things will - or rather should - have changed since then, maybe find a more recent review if one exists?

Ken

Andy Sephton 110/11/2018 05:21:18
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87 forum posts
129 photos

Thanks for the heads-up on the servo and the link Richard, but I'm with Ken on this one. The report is an old one and it's reporting on a different servo.

Notwithstanding, I'll be putting a hatch in the wing so that the servos can be changed if necessary and I'll keep a close eye on them for the first few flights.

Martyn K10/11/2018 08:53:06
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4712 forum posts
3371 photos
Hi Andy
I have been using these servos on my gliders for a while with no problems. The only problems I am aware of are that
The plastic on the plastic cased variants is a bit brittle and you will need to find a way of rubber mounting them (if using an ic engine) as I don't think they come with grommets..

They are fairly quick, centre well and adequately powered to drive a single aileron

Martyn

Edited By Martyn K on 10/11/2018 08:55:18

Martyn K10/11/2018 08:53:10
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4712 forum posts
3371 photos
Duplicate post. Sorry

Edited By Martyn K on 10/11/2018 08:54:08

Andy Sephton 110/11/2018 09:02:02
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87 forum posts
129 photos

When I said the next job would be to make the wing seating in the fuselage, what I really meant was....... I have to make the wing to fuselage fixing first. It's not essential, but I'd like to fix the position of the wing before I make the wing seats.

I/m a free flight scale modeller at heart, so I have no idea of the strength of fixing I require on this model. The lower wing is partially held by the fuselage shape, but the wing bolts also serve as rear anchor points for the undercarriage legs. Based on that, Danny suggested 4mm allen head steel bolts into 4mm blind nuts. Accordingly, some have been ordered from modelfixings and the wing seat is on hold until they arrive.

In the meantime, I've been progressing the parts of the wing I missed out. The first pic shows the differences between ribs 1, 2 and 3 and the wing itself. Rib 1 is good on length, but the slot needs lengthening and another slot needs cutting at the TE. Ribs 2 and 3 are too short at the front and too long at the back. The photo also flags up that they should have been fitted before adding the wing tip, but I'll do that on the top wing. For this one, I've opened the spar holes and LE slot at the bottom and added the removed bits after fitting the ribs. See pic 2. I also discovered that it's darn near impossible to taper the lower spruce spar in situ, so they'll stay full thickness to the tip. Again, I'll rectify that when I build the top wing

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After much cogitation, I've decided to web the spars with a central web of 1/16" balsa, grain vertical. I'm introducing a new tool here, too, in the form of an Aldi digital calliper which I used to measure the gap between the spars. I can't remember how much it cost, but it was very reasonable. And while on the subject of Aldi, I picked up 2 x A3 cutting mats there yesterday for the princely sum of £1.49 each.

The pic below shows the webs cut from 1/16" soft balsa, they'll be individually cut to length to fit each spar gap.

img_7467.jpeg

Tony Bennett10/11/2018 09:11:18
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4953 forum posts
129 photos

i had to do the same with my wing tip ribs as i read the plan wrong.

Tony B

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