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Hawker Fury Mk1 Replica, K1930 (OO-HFU)

60" RC Hawker Fury Mk 1

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Danny Fenton10/11/2018 10:40:53
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9059 forum posts
3926 photos

Terrific report Andy, so everybody take note, the three tip ribs are slid on to the spar extensions before assembly!

If somebody wants to redraw the three tip ribs for the upper wings then we could circulate it to the group.

Cheers

Danny

Tony Bennett10/11/2018 14:42:14
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5071 forum posts
129 photos

only number 3 slides on, number two slots over the tip extension, number one sits on them.

Tony B

Danny Fenton10/11/2018 14:49:18
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9059 forum posts
3926 photos
Thanks Tony, I am still bemused by the fuselage, but all this info should make the wings more straightforward.
Cheers
Danny
Andy Sephton 126/11/2018 18:36:17
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149 forum posts
360 photos

it's time for an update...I've not achieved too much as I've been busy with other things over the past few weeks, but I did manage the odd five minutes here and there.

After webbing both lower wing panels, the next job was to sort the fuselage wing seats. I marked the CL of the wing and the wing fixing plate, then taped the latter to the wing. I've decided to fix the plate horizontal in the fuselage rather than vertical as I believe the fixing solution will be easier. I'll web it either side with 1/8" ply to spread the load into the fuselage when I get the time.

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I then drilled through the wing and mounting plate using a pillar drill with the axis of the drill at right angles to the lower wing surface. I've used 5mm steel bolts for the fixing, with 5mm captive nuts in the plate.

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Next job was to ensure that the wing was positioned correctly with respect to the fuselage and to ensure the plate was at the right angle for the bolts. The plate position was then marked and the whole disassembled....

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.........to allow epoxying of the plate into the fuselage.

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When dry, the wing was protected with clear tape...

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...assembled to the fuselage, and the wing seat glued and pinned in place:

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Having fixed the tank poison, I cut a hole in former one for the tank pipes, and epoxied former one and the bearers to the fuselage. I had several ideas as to where the tank and fuel feeds should go...the results can be seen sketched on the front of the former!:

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Underside view showing tank position.

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I decided to lay out the upper wing this afternoon. First job was to taper the ends of the spars - both left and right panel lower spars are shown below.

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A rib was cut for the aileron servo - the 1/16" slots are for 1/16" ply servo mounting plates.

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...three ribs were then prepared for the servo, servo mounting plates and servo lead:

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Richard Mallam.29/11/2018 14:38:52
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53 forum posts
7 photos

Hi Andy, just wondering in which exact location you are planning to place the servos in the upper wing. As I am sure you have seen, there is a larger gap in the rib spacing between ribs 8 and 9 - counting out from the centre section. This gap would appear to accomodate the Corona servo without the need to make a larger opening to fit the servo profile? Or have I missed something?

Richard

Andy Sephton 130/11/2018 09:20:08
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149 forum posts
360 photos

You make an interesting point Richard. The model will never be a true scale model as there are too many differences between it and the subject aircraft, so there's no reason why you shouldn't move the servo to the position you suggest. For interest, here's a pic of the servo in that position - I've moved it to the TE of the wing for illustration purposes as the ribs are obscured on the plan mid-chord. As you can see, it's a bit tight, but it does fit.

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I'll be moving the aileron actuation one bay inboard to that shown on the plan as that is the scale position for the aileron control. I've taken a couple of picture to show what I'm doing, the dry-assembly is shown upside down. ....and yes, I know, I've put a hole in the centre rib for the cable when it's not required!

I'm considering a further ply strip for the fixing on the bottom of the servo and maybe some doublers for the ribs. I'll make that decision before covering, but after the wing has been built, the ailerons connected and the whole set-up tried out.

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Richard Mallam.30/11/2018 15:26:57
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53 forum posts
7 photos

Many thanks for the clarification Andy. I can now proceed with some confidence!

Richard

Andy Sephton 103/12/2018 16:47:41
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149 forum posts
360 photos

The upper wing continues, the spars have been jigged using scrap 1/8" balsa underneath and scrap 1/4" balsa each side. I fit four ribs at a time and hold them in position with engineers squares.

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More ribs added and steel bar stock used as weights to hold the structure down onto the plan

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I'm putting a single web down the middle of each set of spars making a classic 'I' beam. The lower wing was a bit fiddly as it was done after construction, but the upper wing can be done before the upper spar was added. I cut blanks for the webs from soft 1/16" balsa, note grain direction

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The webs are then cut to fit and the lower corners chamfered slightly to clear the inevitable lump of glue in the corners between the lower spars and ribs.

 

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The rear web progresses

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Rear web complete, upper rear spar added

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Front web complete

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Upper front spar added

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I had to remove the balsa holding the lower spars to the plan in order to fit the webs, so to keep the wing true, I weighed it down with steel bar stock and the engineers squares

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...and finally, the aileron core has been played down, and ribs, TE and LE added. I shifted the aileron back a couple of inches to make it easier to construct. The wing now being dry, I added the wing tip and aileron trailing edge

img_7575.jpeg

 

 

Edited By Andy Sephton 1 on 03/12/2018 16:49:32

Danny Fenton03/12/2018 18:04:18
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9059 forum posts
3926 photos

Looking really good Andy.

I hope you don't mind me interjecting at this point as it is interesting for the group.

Andy has realised that the way the aileron core has been cut is from an outline of the entire aileron. This is not as per the plan, an error in the tracing on my part embarrassed However I would really like to say that it was deliberate because it allows us to make the false leading edge in two sections, an upper and a lower. this should make keeping everything alligned easier. However you do need to trim the aileron cores to the front of the false aileron leading edge.

Martyn split his leading edge as well and kept all of the aileron core I believe.

This section view shows it more clearly. red is the balsa core, and blue the false leading edge in two sections.

aileron section.jpg

I presume Andy you are going to fit a full leading edge section towards the end?

Anyway I hope I haven't misinterpreted what you are thinking???

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 03/12/2018 18:06:03

Edited By Danny Fenton on 03/12/2018 18:06:57

Andy Sephton 103/12/2018 21:07:20
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149 forum posts
360 photos

I'm not entirely sure yet how I'm going to finish the aileron, Danny. At the moment, I'm looking at a full span wire running in ali tube for the hinges, with 1/4" balsa either side of the tube instead of 1/2" balsa for the main LE. There will also be a lower false 1/8" balsa LE, plus lower ribs and cap strips for all the ribs, too.

Andy Sephton 105/12/2018 16:28:02
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149 forum posts
360 photos

I'm still on the upper wing. The first photo shows the end view of the port wing and aileron - the latter will need a 1/2" balsa fairing added on the leading edge to fit the gap in the wing. My first thoughts on hinging were to have a wire running along the hinge-line, but it would need to exit through the 1/4" sub spar at the wing tip. I'm now looking at Robart hinge points set in brass tube. More of that later.

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Meanwhile the starboard upper wing has been laid down with the starboard aileron. I built it over the port wing plan, but constructed the other way round. The spar separation will be the same, and the LE and TE positions are set by the ribs.

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while the starboard wing dried, I added the trailing edge to the lower side of the two ailerons

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The following pic shows the upper wing roots with spar core pieces and dihedral braces fitted. I'm intending to leave the centre-section for now as I want to fit the ailerons and get them working before I join the wings

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Meanwhile, I added the tip edge pieces to the top and bottom of the wing tips

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..and finished the basic assembly of both ailerons, top..

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...and bottom. There's still one rib to be fitted to both.

img_7595.jpeg

Andy Sephton 115/12/2018 11:32:58
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149 forum posts
360 photos

I've been concentrating on connecting the ailerons to the wing so I can finally decide on the configuration. First off was to decide how to hinge them. After cogitating the problem for a few weeks, and after several conversations with Danny, I decided on Robart hinge points. These needed to be extended, so I used ali-tube cyano'd to one end of the hinges:

img_7619.jpeg

5/16" blocks were then fitted to the aileron and wing - the inboard hinge eventually needed two blocks. Hinge mounting blocks and hinges are shown below. 3/16" strip was added to the other side of the aileron to support the aileron horn.

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Tool time - I bought this one from Amazon. It's a jewellers saw, it came with 144 blades and cost less than £20. It went through the glass aileron horn mounting tags like a knife through butter - it's also good for metals such as ali tube...but that's another story!

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...and this is how it ended up. There's still a leading edge to be added to the aileron and capping strips. There's also a lot of shaping and sanding to do, but the set up was only to fix the positions of the control actuators and to see if I could hide the servo arm in the wing... Note that the servo arm is set at an angle to give differential aileron movement. i.e. more up than down. The following three pictures show the underside of the wing. (I couldn't find my servo tester, so the aileron servo has been connected to the throttle channel on an Rx and the transmitter used to check the aileron throw.

img_7684.jpeg

 

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Unfortunately, to give the aileron movement I require (as much as possible), the actuating arm needs to be some distance from the servo, and therefore, protrudes slightly above the wing surface. This is the neutral position:

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The next shows fully up

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and the following fully down - note the different angle of full up and full down.

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The above was all dry fitted, so it'll now come apart to enable finishing of the wing and aileron structure, and the fabrication of a suitable hatch.

.........and finally, last weekend I took delivery of a rather nice 3D printed radiator from Tony B. The item comes in two parts and really looks the business. If you're interested, please PM him....I'm sure he'll come to a suitable arrangement with you! wink

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Edited By Andy Sephton 1 on 15/12/2018 11:37:29

Tony Bennett15/12/2018 13:05:31
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5071 forum posts
129 photos

Nice work with the ailerons Andy.

i covered mine with chrome tape.

plus there is an oil cooler as well.

i like my 3d printer.

Tony B

Andy Sephton 122/12/2018 10:55:00
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149 forum posts
360 photos

Having decided on the aileron servo position, I'v now moved on to the fuselage and servo positions for the rudder, elevators and throttle.

I've added a ply plate in the first bay behind the firewall to separate the tank from the servos. I'm aiming to get the servos, battery and tank as far forward as possible. I'm also intending to have a separate bay for the tank in case of leakage. This will, of course, necessitate a hatch on top of the fuselage as well as on the bottom. The receiver and switch will be in the cockpit, which will necessitate the addition of some servo extension leads.

The below picture shows the game plan for the empennage - the two outboard servos will have snakes to each of the elevators, the middle servo will have a closed loop connection to the rudder. All three servos will be mounted close to the firewall:

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Looking under the ply plate in the same bay, I'm planning to have the tank on the left side of the fuselage and the engine servo on the right (the fuselage is upside down in the shot below). I've not yet fitted the ply plate to separate the tank from the servo. I'll also need to block off the large hole in the former behind the tank.

img_7712.jpeg

Andy Sephton 112/01/2019 19:56:41
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149 forum posts
360 photos

I've been playing around with CAD and have drawn out the markings for the model in two forms. One for printing tissue for a free flight rubber model I've part built, the other set for sending to a cutter/plotter to cut the markings for the 60" model. I took separate screen shots of the drawings, but the forum wouldn't accept them, so I took a picture of the five drawings on my computer screen and that's what's posted here. The drawings will need scaling before I can use them, but I now have the information I need to create what I want.

The picture shows from top left: fin and elevator checks, top wing, lower wing, fuselage and rudder.

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I've not mentioned the rubber powered Fury here. It's a model I started a couple of years ago, being a 150% Veron Fury produced by the Vintage Model Co. I was building it for BMFA Outdoor Kit Scale competition and to illustrate CAD for creating markings for a magazine article. The fin/rudder, tailplane and elevators have been covered already - the below photo shows their current state, covered but not yet shrunk or doped. The wings and fuselage await printing of the tissue using the above files. As the finished model is of the same full-size aircraft as my Bryant Fury, it'll be a good test of the markings.

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Danny Fenton12/01/2019 20:58:16
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9059 forum posts
3926 photos
Looks great Andy, i am going to have to try this printing onto tissue mallarky
Andy Sephton 112/01/2019 21:29:47
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149 forum posts
360 photos

Thanks Danny... and yes, you must. It's a really elegant way of getting a light finish and as a plus it tests the markings for a larger model. The downside is that you end up with a model looking a bit like a stained-glass-window, which blows the realism marks straight out of the window - pun intended! It is allowed in BMFA Scale Indoors in the Kit Scale event, though.

Chris Bott - Moderator13/01/2019 15:14:50
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Moderator
6609 forum posts
1370 photos
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Printed tissue over metalised mylar gives a nice sheen and light doesn't show through from behind.

BTW the Fury is looking great, Andy. thumbs up

Andy Sephton 113/01/2019 17:21:59
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149 forum posts
360 photos

Good point Chris and thanks for posting. I've not yet tried tissue over mylar, but I have considered silver mylar covering as a route to opacity. It's good to see that it works.

Andy Sephton 118/01/2019 07:03:19
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149 forum posts
360 photos

I've been working on the fuselage servo installation and the second wing aileron/servo set-up. There are no pictures of the latter as it's similar to the other wing.

I've gone for a smaller tank and separate bay for the tank and engine servo. There'll be a hatch to cover both bays. I've also blanked the hole in the former at the back of the tank bay to isolate it from the remainder of the model.

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The control snake (bowden cable) from the servo to the carb will go through the firewall at the point marked in pencil by an 'X' with a circle around it. As you can see from the graffiti on the firewall, I've gone through several iterations in the planning stage....

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