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S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI

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Danny Fenton12/02/2019 19:06:47
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9106 forum posts
3945 photos

Right centre section done, well as far as I can go without some wing panels.

Its on to the port wing:

I am showing the steps for those that haven't figured it out for themselves yet and as a guide to any subsequent builders. The aileron area is supposed to be tricky, so stand by for some errors Andy and Tony have done these bits so hopefully they will keep an eye on me.

I layed down the spars on top of 1/8 shims, positioned the ribs, then layed the upper spars. Then staring at the root I positioned the ribs using my lego "true" up against the spar and the rib, and flat on the board. This gets everything accurate. Then maintain downward pressure on the upper spar to hold the rib still while you shift the lego, and CA the joint. Then move on to the next. Once they are done then swing on to the rear spars and do the same.

The rear edge of the ribs are supported with 1/4 sq packer, this is wrapped in sellotape to stop it sticking to the trailing edge when its fitted. Once that's done then the false trailing edge 9/16 x 1/8 piece can be fitted. it runs from the last inboard rib, out to S1.

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I thought it would also be useful to show you how I apply tiny amounts of thin CA to my joints. CA can make a brittle joint so you mustn't soak the whole area. I will leave the decision on glue to you, each to their own. I use CA and that's my choice

Anyway these 5ml pippetes are about £3 for 100, the Zap flexi tips are about £4 for 10. I suck up a full squeese of CA into the pipette bulb (having fitted the flexi tip) and lay it tip raised in a curry tray. A tap on the bulb will knock the glue back into the bulb and stop clogs.

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Okay time for stir fry, maybe more later......

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton12/02/2019 21:46:42
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9106 forum posts
3945 photos

Did a little more, again appologies for the guys that have already done this, but there were a lot of modellers that are taking part and either keeping their powder dry or just keeping quiet.

Thought I would sort the wing tips, a quick chat with Andy confirmed that 1/4 under the entire tip will see it centred niceley.

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On the lower wing I slid the three tip ribs over the spar extensions, and boy does that create a rod for your own back. More of that when I fit them, don't despair there is an easy way.

So shape the spar extensions, you will have to angle the step under the forward spar extension to match the curve of the ply tip. Otherwise it is fairly straightforward. I was missing the 1/8th S1 from my parts, so had to make one.

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All seems to be going okay at the moment, I must keep in mind the hinges, some areas may need opening up to allow them to attach to the wing.

I am thinking of using a length of piano wire to hinge the ailerons. And RDS to operate the ailerons.

Using RDS means I can have a moving disc on the wing underside with a pushrod.

Cheers

Danny

Colin Leighfield12/02/2019 22:21:53
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5952 forum posts
2492 photos

Where did you get the pipettes from Danny? I have just got in from the shed, working on the upper wing centre section first, as usual a bit slow while I get my head around it! Nothing worth a photo yet though.

Danny Fenton12/02/2019 23:00:05
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9106 forum posts
3945 photos

Hi Colin, interestingly I was asked the same question in one of the modelling FaceBook groups I am in.

Just search on 5ml pipettes on Ebay, they vary in price from about £3 to £5 for a hundred.

The ends are Zap Flexi Ends, not as cheap but work really well.

Glad you are getting shed time, though I don't like the cold!

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton13/02/2019 16:37:55
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9106 forum posts
3945 photos

Spar webbing next:

I set my stripping tool, set to the depth of the webs, then used it to just nick the balsa sheet. Alligned the set square with the nick and saw across the sheet gently.

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Voila, do this another half dozen times and you have enough to do the wing.

Trim to size and slot into place. It has taken longer to document than to do

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Now the wing has some rigidity I will lift the panel and fit the tip ribs.

Cheers

Danny

Colin Leighfield13/02/2019 17:58:58
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5952 forum posts
2492 photos

Thanks for the advice Danny, I have ordered them on eBay. Worth a try because I waste a lot of cyano.

Danny Fenton13/02/2019 18:16:25
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9106 forum posts
3945 photos

No Probs Colin, I wish I could find a cheaper source of the flexi tips as one only usually last 2 or three days of serious building.

Okay onto the tip ribs. These need the 1/4 balsa spar extensions to be correct. They seem fine as lasered, but make sure none of your tapered upper spar interferes.

The easy way to do these tip ribs is to fit them after all the outer tip is fitted as I have done above.

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Open up the slot at the bottom of the rib adjacent to the spar cutouts. You will see the rear spar slots needs moving forward a 1/16. Also cut the bottom of the nose of the rib. The back of the rib will need trimming to length. This will allow the rib to sit down on the two spar extensions.

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It is probably worth saying here that you have to check all this by eye, and is best done with the wing off the board so you can give the old Mk 1 eyeballs a fair chance. The upper wing has definitely gone better than the lower that's for sure. A quick message to Andy and he confirms that to be his thoughts too.

The other two ribs really only need trimming for length to make fit. I added nose and tail notches to sit over the ply tip shaper.

Next I looked at the optional riblets. The upper wing nose ribs are 1/16th shorter than the lower wing, so the universal riblets will need trimming a bit. I did this by adjusting 1 and using it as a pattern to adjust them all, just by holding as a block and sanding to the lines.

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They all fitted, and appologies if some are crooked, they are on the full size!

Cheers

Danny

Ernie14/02/2019 15:21:42
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2511 forum posts
20 photos

Hi Danny, good to see you back in action. A few points,

1 What is the bar across the front of the instrument panel, with the wood handles

2 I've worked out a cockpit layout, but if the top of the pilots seat matches the top of the cockpit opening, then the sitting part is quite a way above the lower wing Is this right

3 I've covered the tail parts, and added rib tapes from strips of solartex. They seem a bit too prominent. Any thoughts?

Finally, I'm getting some stencils cut for K3736 (the yellow one) If anyone needs the artwork, I can post it

ernie

Tony Bennett14/02/2019 16:55:29
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5075 forum posts
129 photos

that would be the gun support bar, the wooden handles are part of the guns.

Tony B

Danny Fenton14/02/2019 18:35:47
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9106 forum posts
3945 photos

Thanks Tony

A couple of pics from yesterday that I forgot to post.

Firstly i dug a tunnel through the ribs for my servo lead, used a permagrit rat tail as a mole.

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Next I added an offcut of fals wing trailing edge to act as a support for the capping strips, surrounding the ailerons.

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Well I didn't get as much done today as I wanted, but most of the starboard wing is now done, at least to the same stage as the port. Wing joining next, then some sheeting and capping. I will save the ailerons until last

070.jpg

Cheers

Danny

Colin Leighfield14/02/2019 21:50:28
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5952 forum posts
2492 photos

All very helpful chaps!

Danny Fenton14/02/2019 23:25:58
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9106 forum posts
3945 photos

Hi Ernie:

3 I've covered the tail parts, and added rib tapes from strips of solartex. They seem a bit too prominent. Any thoughts?

I have indeed, Solartex (in my oppinion) looks way to prominent applied and then painted. I apply a couple of coats of Celulose dope, a quick sand with a fine grade paper to 1. Seal the edges of the the torn Solartex, and 2. Soften the ridge between the tape and the surface below.

If you don't do this when you put paint over the top it can seep under the tape and a clear line be seen. this is not terribly scale.

A coat or two of dope will see you right, you can also add a coat of primer if it is still too much.

Remember Dave Platt "less is more"

Just an observation, but why aren't people documenting their progress?

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton15/02/2019 21:51:41
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9106 forum posts
3945 photos

Very busy day today and not really any time for modelling.

But the good thing is the MoJo is still okay.

Joined a wing to a centre section, seems fairly straight anyway.

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The centre section trailing edge is packed with 1/4" strip, the spars are packed with 1/8" scraps

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a piece of balsa was cut to 22.25mm (sorry for the mixed units) (don't forget to pack it up an additional 1/8" to allow for the centre section packing

073.jpg

Not sure if you can spot the spar support up against the rib? this was placed to get that tip height, and makes sure the spars are lifting parrallel.

074.jpg

The ply doublers are clamped

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I used two heavy lumps of corned beef to hold the centre section down, for the whole process.

Oh and the alloy angle section runs along the front of the centre section false leading edge to ensure the panel false leading edge is true.

More soon

Cheers

Danny

Martin Fane16/02/2019 00:01:22
294 forum posts
305 photos

Hi Danny

Great to see your build back on track.

What's your method for upper wing joiners ?

I didn't see how the carbon tube goes.....

Cheers

Martin

Danny Fenton16/02/2019 10:23:14
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9106 forum posts
3945 photos

 

 

Hi Martin, and thx it is good to be back on the build. How is yours coming along?

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I piece of roughed G10 (fibreglass sheet) is added to get the thickness to match the spars.

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Hopefully the pics show what I have done? The dihedral is shallow so the carbon tube will fit inside the boundaries of the spars. The lower wing was more awkward.

I have also not worried about alignment and just built the wing as standard, (with buried carbon) I will saw the wing sections at the end. (not sure how yet!)

Cheers

 

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 16/02/2019 10:26:26

Martin Fane16/02/2019 16:52:42
294 forum posts
305 photos

Danny

Thanks, a picture us worth a thousand words smiley

Danny Fenton16/02/2019 18:21:17
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9106 forum posts
3945 photos

Managed to join the other panel, I had been dreading the next bit so picked up an old razor saw and cut the wings apart again, did remarkably well, just by eye. The carbon/ply sections probably killed the blade but it's only a cheapo (not a Kona!!!)

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Added the riblets and the floating ribs to the root area. Need to add the tip doublers and do a bit of sanding in preparation for the leading edge sheeting next.

My plans for a piano wire rod through all the hinges is scuppered having thought it through. The RDS needs to pass through the hinge line and the piano wire will be in the way. Have to think again.....

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton17/02/2019 18:23:00
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9106 forum posts
3945 photos

Okay unfortunately the carbon tube that is meant to slide in the square section is tight, too tight to use. Not sure what has happened but Graham at Bucks Composites has suggested I spin the rod in the lathe and wrap emery paper around it to turn it to fit. I am sure this will work, but I will leave it until I need the rods. I tried sanding the carbon and ended up with splinters, so at least I know the stuff really is carbon!

Cracked on with the wing panels, adding the upper and lower leading edge sheeting.

I then turned my attention to the aileron hinging. I really want to use RDS for aileron control so I need to keep the hinge line clear, that rules out a continuos piano wire pin to line up and retain all the hinges. Having suggested alloy tube extensions to Andy, not thinking I would do the same then re-considered. I made a few measurements and mad a jig to align the alloy tubes and glued them through holes in the false trailing edge, they also attach to the ribs. I added a packing piece for even more piece of mind.

101.jpgNext up was some 1/4 triangle section. I planed/sanded the edge os some very soft 1/4 stock, then using my stripping tool cut the 1/4 chamfered edge off. Worked a treat.

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Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton17/02/2019 18:52:47
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9106 forum posts
3945 photos

Added the cross grain aileron shroud

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And the view from the underside......

107.jpg

Cheers

Danny

Colin Leighfield17/02/2019 18:56:02
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5952 forum posts
2492 photos

When I have tried to shape or reduce the diameter of carbon fibre tube I find that it breaks up however I try, the resin is too brittle. There might be a way to do it but I haven’t found it yet.

Edited By Colin Leighfield on 17/02/2019 18:56:29

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