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S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI

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Danny Fenton03/06/2019 17:40:45
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9289 forum posts
4116 photos

Moved on to the diagonals, using a slightly thinner piano wire, and some 24 swg tinned copper wire.

190.jpg

Clamping bits of piano wire can be a challenge, I use two plates of hardwood, and a "C" clamp. This allows me to "lash" the other end and solder. Remove the clamp, lash and solder that end too.191.jpg Even where the piano wire came very close to some very soft 1/8 no scorching ocurred. Not sure whether this is down to the powerful iron or Chris's amazing solder. Either way I am glad that bit is done.

192.jpg

193.jpg

Cheers

Danny

Tony Bennett03/06/2019 20:14:52
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5080 forum posts
129 photos

far neater job than i managed to do.

soon be finished then Danny.

Tony B

Danny Fenton03/06/2019 20:35:07
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9289 forum posts
4116 photos

Yep only 90 percent left crook

How did you cover yours then Tony, before fitted to the Centre section? That is the way I am leaning...

Cheers

Danny

Tony Bennett03/06/2019 21:16:35
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5080 forum posts
129 photos

i covered mine before fitting to the centre section, made more sence to me.

Tony B

Danny Fenton03/06/2019 21:31:53
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9289 forum posts
4116 photos

Yes covering just the underside so you do the screws from above is what I am thinking.

Might pad the piano wire first with it still in place... thanks Tony

Cheers

Danny

Tony Bennett03/06/2019 22:45:45
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5080 forum posts
129 photos

yup just cover the underside. i also did the rigging wires while i could move the centre section round easily on the bench.

mine is glued on now so it is fixed for life.

Tony B

Danny Fenton04/06/2019 12:00:19
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9289 forum posts
4116 photos

Thanks Tony

I have had a couple of messages asking about this magic solder. So here is a piccy. I would suggest you club together to buy some as it is not cheap!! Chris and I split the cost between us

195.jpg

I think this is it on the RS website, perhaps Chris Bott if he is watching can confirm?

 

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 04/06/2019 12:21:52

Chris Bott - Moderator04/06/2019 13:23:47
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That's the stuff Danny

It's 62%Tin, 36%Lead and 2%Silver. This gives it a slightly lower melting point of 179C.

The main advantage over standard 60/40 tin/lead is that is doesn't suffer the "paste like" state as it cools (or warms). With 60/40, any movement during the pasty state can cause a very weak joint.

This stuff is either liquid or solid and just "grabs" suddenly as it cools.

It is also said to absorb far less gold from the gold plating of our connectors, the gold can also affect the joint.

It also leaves joints nice and shiny wink

I've been using it for years for everything and had just run out.

Danny Fenton04/06/2019 13:56:10
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9289 forum posts
4116 photos

Thanks Chris, from me the stuff seems to spread the heat rapidly and just flows very quickly. Whether that's the solder lower melting point I don't know. But it is lovely to use.

Cheers

Danny

Chris Bott - Moderator04/06/2019 16:16:28
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If it helps, I just tried a new search term, 179 solder. That came up with suppliers I've not seen before

Such as this one who's description rather raves about it.

Danny Fenton04/06/2019 17:45:40
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9289 forum posts
4116 photos

Thanks Chris

I added some soft 1/8 to the piano wire struts in an effort to make them look less like piano wire and a bit more like bits that should be on a Hawker Fury!

196.jpg

Some rough shaping and they are getting there....

197.jpg

I have a cunning plan for the hiding that piano wire further, but more of that later

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 04/06/2019 17:56:23

Martin Fane04/06/2019 19:20:13
312 forum posts
319 photos

Hi Danny / Chris

Thanks for the tip re solder. I've ordered a 3.5m sample.

Description does sound rather good so report to follow.....

Cheers

Martin

Danny Fenton04/06/2019 22:49:28
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9289 forum posts
4116 photos

Snook to the workshop for some cave time, and fettled the centre section some more.

198.jpg

Removed the upper wing CS to allow better access. I will fit the rigging wires and brackets, as well as route the servo wires (4) port/stbd/pos/neg.

Need to think about the metal work over the top of this section, litho or foil. Foil will mean it has to be glassed, but litho will look different compared to the nose section which is foiled.

Sleep on it I reckon

Edited By Danny Fenton on 04/06/2019 22:51:19

Danny Fenton05/06/2019 13:54:36
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9289 forum posts
4116 photos

Decided to keep it simple. I would just run a lead up each side, one for each of the aileron servos.

These leads are glued to the struts, then whipped at either end to make sure they don't come loose. They will be covered in the wrapped binding later which should hide them a bit.

199.jpg

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton05/06/2019 18:34:31
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9289 forum posts
4116 photos

Jury is still out on this bit........

I have wrapped the cabane struts in strips of torn silk, stuck down with shrinking dope.

200.jpg

201.jpg

Two issues.

1. It didn't want to stick down very well

2. It didn't want to stick down very well

I can always revisit, torn Solartex might have been a better option......

The silk has had 5 coats of straight dope and it still wants more......

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton07/06/2019 13:38:52
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9289 forum posts
4116 photos

Took a look at the centre section rigging wires. compared to photos this is all very stand off so I shan't worry too much.

202.jpg

203.jpg

Cheers

Danny

Andy Sephton 107/06/2019 14:03:30
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154 forum posts
392 photos

The weave on that silk looks very 'open' Danny, it's not surprising it's taking a lot of dope. As you say, maybe Solartex would have been better ... or maybe nylon or bias binding?

Danny Fenton07/06/2019 15:11:02
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9289 forum posts
4116 photos

Hi Andy, I am mildly concerned about the silk. There was an article a few years ago, I think in Aeromodeller that discussed silk covering. Lightweight Habotai silk was recomended, this I duly purchased. Still cost £36 for two yards

I notice Mike Woodhouse, Free Flight Supplies sells Esaki, in both lightweight 12gsm and a heavier 18gsm. would these be better do you think? The silk is not as coarse as it appears in the photo, remember the bit you see was torn, that may have pulled the threads a little?

Where do others purchase silk, or are we a dying breed?

Cheers

Danny

Alan Gorham_07/06/2019 15:37:02
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1070 forum posts
129 photos

I have used the lightweight Esaki from Mike Woodhouse and also a slightly cheaper silk from Harringtons Fabric and Lace of long Eaton.

**LINK**

If you want a sample, follow the link above and type in this product code:

4202/I (that's I for Ivory)

It was recommended by Bill Dennis for FF Scale applications so it should have a finer weave than your stuff.

Danny Fenton07/06/2019 16:02:43
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9289 forum posts
4116 photos

Thanks Alan,the web site doesn't seem very user friendly, cannot get to prices. I thought it was Bill Dennis that suggested the Habotai that I have. But I did order it a few years ago now.

If the silk is only slightly cheaper from Harringtons I may as well order from Mike I guess. he doesn't advertise any white, but I don't suppose the colour will matter as it will be overpainted.

Cheers

Danny

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