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S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI

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Danny Fenton02/10/2018 18:32:07
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8624 forum posts
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Tailplane assembly shots. Fairly self explanatory I hope? Anyway there is a 1/4 balsa centre section on both sides of the tailplane. This is going to add weight unless you are careful with wood selection Mine is fairly light already, I may cut a few holes, I will think about it.....

fury 6.jpg

fury 7.jpg

fury 8.jpg

fury 9.jpg

fury 10.jpg

Danny Fenton02/10/2018 18:34:40
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8624 forum posts
3499 photos

fury 12.jpg

fury 13.jpg

fury 14.jpg

This last shot shows the basic tools I use, the only item missing is the sanding block from Balsa Cabin.

Cheers

Danny

Tony Bennett02/10/2018 19:07:31
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4892 forum posts
117 photos

thank you kind sir, they will help when i start mine tomorrow.

Tony B

Danny Fenton02/10/2018 22:00:25
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8624 forum posts
3499 photos

Okay the sanding is done on the horizontal stabiliser. The key is to focus on getting the doublers around the edge really thin, pay attention to the cut through sections shown on the plan and taper the edges as if it were sheet balsa. Always keep the block skewed around 45 degrees to the ribs or you will catch them and break them off, I know this but still broke one crook once the doublers ats on the perimeter are sized then blend that thickness ont the ribs. Easier done than said but it isn't easy and you need a good eye.

You should end up with something like this:

fury16.jpg

23.4g

Can you see how much doubler remains at the leading edge? and that distance needs to stay constant all the way around the tips. The trailing edge remains square, not radiused (is that a word?)

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 02/10/2018 22:07:17

Martyn K03/10/2018 10:00:42
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4657 forum posts
3304 photos

Hi Danny

Back to the fin rigging wires, this photo doesn't show a front fin rigging wire

hf 44.jpg

No hole either

Martyn

Danny Fenton03/10/2018 21:57:30
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8624 forum posts
3499 photos
Its a replica Martyn
The rear rigging wire is on a thread on the full size. When the pitch trim is applied it lifts the rigging and the tailplane to alter pitch. Wouldnt mind seeing the tailplane mounts on the full size i guess that has a similar screwjack type thread. I can only assume the replica isnt exact, though it sure looks it!
Danny Fenton05/10/2018 17:47:20
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8624 forum posts
3499 photos

A quick trial fit of the battery packs 2 x 2700mAh 5S as planned, but ther is room for a third in between, to give me 8100mAh.

Should be enough

fury20.jpg

Cheers

Danny

Tony Bennett05/10/2018 17:54:09
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4892 forum posts
117 photos

i can get a 5000mah 5s in my gap or 2x 5000mah 4s lipo's.

just depends on the motor i decide to fit.

Tony B

Danny Fenton12/10/2018 13:51:45
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8624 forum posts
3499 photos

I appreciate that some joining in are not as comfortable with building from a plan as others so I have done a bit of a piccy sequence that may help. Those of you steaming ahead can look away

fury21.jpg

Here the perimeter is outlined with tha various thicknesses of wood. I used a much lighter wood stock for this as i am trying to save weight. However the edges of the sheets containing the parts is a great source of wood and saves wastage. I use a SLEC Balsa Stripper to cut my strip wood from a sheet of soft 1/4 inch balsa.

You can also see that i do not build over the plan for these bits. I am using thin CA in a pipette and only hold the part flat down when i am gluing. Very little glue is needed otherwise the joint gets swamped and the entire area becomes brittle. (and adds pointless weight. If you are more comfy with aliphatic or pva then pin the part down to keep it flat while the glue dries.

fury22.jpg

You can see I true one end of the stringers/ribs and then add a few marks to give me the approx size, and angle.

fury24.jpg

Cut with a razor saw, slightly over size then sand down to size, frequently trial fitting.

fury23.jpg

I hold the part down while running a fine bead of CA along the join. pressing down gently as it dries, 5 secs typically.

fury25.jpg

continue attaching all the parts, then flip over and do the other side.

fury26.jpg

Shaping is done with a medium fine Perma Grit block. I chamfer the edges down to the edge of the 1/16th balsa core at 45 degrees, then alter the angle to gradually include the ribs etc. Then i finisish final shaping by eye. Pay careful attention to the aerodynamic balances at the front of the elevators.

fury28.jpg

Don't forget to leave cut outs for the glass horns.

fury29.jpg

The horn is not glued yet, that will happen after the tops have been covered.

As for the joiners i am still musing over that one. I am in favour of a carbon tube with a glass horn J and B welded in place, but the piano wire method will work fine, just heavier.

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton12/10/2018 15:31:23
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8624 forum posts
3499 photos

With any luck and a following wind we should have something like this. You didn't forget the plywood reinforcing for the rigging wires and struts did you?

fury30.jpg

I have also added the riblets. As was pointed out two are missing from the plan, so 4 extras had to be made.

Okay what's next?

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton12/10/2018 18:59:51
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8624 forum posts
3499 photos

Okay it seems I un-beknowing deviated from the plan. mind you I wouldn't follow the plan in this instance as it would mean a ply plate up against the outer covering.

Those steeley eyed amongst you, especially you Mr Sephton, one house point btw May have noticed that the ply plate is clearly shown as being on the underside of the tailplane, recessed into the rib.

Well the rib is not solid as you know and has a slot. therefore when you thin it further to allow for the plate you are creating a weak point right where you are trying to create a strong point.... not smart in my book. I have used the gap between the upper and lower ribs to my advantage and slid the 1/16th ply plate in there. I do have to pack up the mounting point to make sure the bracket sits on the surface, but I think this is much neater. Also on some of our subjects we have more struts and wires than on the plan. so win win I reckon?

okay enough of the tailplane. I joined the two fus halves the same as others have done and turned my attention to the bulkheads.

fury32.jpg

F1 caught my eye, it was eagerly awaiting its turn to become part of my Nimrod. However i was about to break its heart. For though it looked at me mournfully with those three holes and two fus slots I had to deny it a chance to be part of the project..... I broke the news to it gently and I selected some medium 1/4 balsa and made a new F1.

fury31.jpg

F1 doesn't carry any real loads on the electric version, F2 and F4 do the donkey work.

the net result was the old F1 weighed in at a hefty 66g the new one just 11g. I am fitting a half pound sound system so it will be a useful weight saving.

Okay onwards and upwards!

Edited By Danny Fenton on 12/10/2018 19:02:05

Tony Bennett12/10/2018 19:32:30
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4892 forum posts
117 photos

nice work danny.

my F1 is the original heavy ply version. sad

but my outer sheeting will be depron, so i expect to save some weight there.

Tony B

Danny Fenton14/10/2018 18:24:54
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8624 forum posts
3499 photos

Made up the fuselage sides, pretty straightforward as others have shown. I don't tend to build one over the other however, I build one, remove from plan and then build the other. I think this gives the second side a better chance of being perfectly flat, but each to there own, ther is no right or wrong just what you favour.

fury33.jpg

Then I needed to look at the bellcrank position. Obviously not something you lot need to think about wink 2

bellcrank doodles 1.jpg

Not very clear I am afraid, but the forward hole in the bellcrank should be on or around the c of g in my experience. Ideally also on the thrust line, or slightly below. These positions determine the amount of pull on the lines. The leadout angle also plays into this. The bellacrank is mounted on the square section birch used to retain the upper wing, with an additiona 4mm ply cross brace between 1/16th ply doublers lining the fus sides.

The servos will be mounted high up between F1 and F2, with a detacheable ball joint link/rod from the elevator servo to the bellcrank for R/C flight.

Underneath should give room for the speaker for the sound system, though I may leave the final position until later as it will have a dramatic affect on the c of g.

Cheers

Danny

Tony Bennett14/10/2018 19:34:53
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4892 forum posts
117 photos

control line as well then eh Danny.

should be interesting.

Tony B

Danny Fenton15/10/2018 21:46:14
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8624 forum posts
3499 photos

Spent ages trying to figure out where I can squuese a 4" Visaton speaker, in the end I am going to see what space I have later on. I was itching to glue

So the doublers for the bellcrank were cut and fitted, then the two bulkheads. Titebond II is my glue of choice here.

fury35.jpg

Cheers

Danny

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