S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI

Tissue on top of silk on the Chipmunk wing has given a super smooth hard surface. I originally hoped to get away with just the Japanese silk but it tore too easily, so did this thinking it was the wrong way round! However the result is actually very good. I’ve already got the nylon to go on the Fury and although it is best part of sixty years since I last used it my recollections are good. Also possible of course to put tissue on top of that! Messing around with this indoor stuff is holding me up again.

Edited By Colin Leighfield on 16/11/2019 16:38:58

Hi Colin, interesting to know, I have not used normal nylon, I am using a nylon chiffon its awful for getting bubbles which need slitting very carefully so as not to damage the tissue underneath, but worth it in the end.

I masked off the tissue areas and glassed the front of my Fury. I have never tried this, so am not sure what will happen under the masking, hopefully it wont soak through and wreck things. Fingers crossed.

I have added peel ply to absorb the excess resin and give a primer ready finish, as I have shown before in videos and in my column in RCM&E.

There is lots of detail, scoops, vents etc, to add to the front, but I will do all that over the top of the resin finish. It took 30g or resin but probably a third of that will come back off with the peel ply. The perfect ratio of resin to cloth is 1:1 so 12g cloth to 12g of resin. I doubt I will hit that, I will have more resin than cloth

Just have to wait now.....

Cheers

Danny

... just two words here > Superb Skills...

Cheers

Chris

If it works Chris, may all go horribly wrong

After 9 hours I was able to remove the peel ply. I usually leave it at least 12 hours but I was worried that the reason may have soaked through the tape, and a bit of flex might help. There was, and I think it did. If you remove the peel too soon you can lift the glass from the balsa, so be careful.....

With hindsight I think Martin was right to do the glass-work first. It would have been easier to leave a gap then fill the gap with filler afterwards. But you live and learn. I think what I have done will work, it will just be a bit more work to tidy the edges up. But if it were easy I wouldn't do it

I think from the above picture you can see the surface finish that using peel ply leaves? A bit like Solartex, a light sand to knock the edges off and its ready for primer. No flow coat needed.

So tomorrow I will attack the front with some 120 grit, then 240 and see where we are.

I have not completely ruled out alloy tape yet, though it is unlikely. May try a bit and see.

Cheers

Danny

Another video, this time glassing using peel ply

Managed to sand the glass down, its very easy using peel ply.

However trying not to sand the tissue is a bit of a mare.....

Anyway added some primer to find the highs and lows, not as bad as I expected.

Still wondering if I should try some alloy tape, just to see.....

Distracted myself by looking at rib tapes. Aircraft of this period would have 2" wides strips of cloth, with the outer 1/4" inch on each edge frayed outwards.

Lots of ideas, but I think I will keep it simple and tear strips of Solartex

Cheers

Danny

Did a little more. One of the issues with the way that I did the glassing is the demarcation between tissue and glass was not clearly defined. I applied two layers of electrical tape and then used Davids Isopon P38 to sharpen the edge.

A bit of wet and dry sanding got a nice crisp edge.

You can also see I have been applying red stopper to try and get the front end in a fit shape for paint (or foil)

Cheers

Danny

Hi Danny

Nice work, as usual.

I see what you are trying to achieve here ie to simulate metal panels overlapping fabric covering.

I was nervous about the masking issues and the potential to damage the tissue areas when masking for the glassing hence I glassed first.

I will now probably use your filler technique to extend my glassed area's over the edge of the tissued area's (that is when I get around to tissueing)

cheers

Martin

I can clearly see why you used those carbon caps on the stringers. They look amazing. Nice and crisp

Hi Martin, yes I think you are in a better position

Just tried a 20" prop

Cheers

Danny

Thanks Martyn, sorry didn't see your comment earlier The crisp transition will be even more noticeable when the paint goes on hopefully.

Chris came over for a coffee and showed me the prototype spinner, more 3D wizardry But I will save showing you that until it is perfected, but it looks ace, thanks Chris.

Cheers

Danny

Okay I couldn't resist trying the foil..... Probably a mistake as it is nigh on impossible to remove sigh...

Anyway, innitially it looked like foil..... but after some wet and dry with 1200 and soap, then 0000 wire wool and a polish with some solvol it looks better?

Smoother and less shiny. Not like The modern preserved airframe, such as at Duxford, but perhaps more like one in active service? What do you reckon?? Am I misleading myself??

Answers to deluded Danny c/o RCM&E

I have to admit I saw the first shot and shuddered. The rework looks great though. Very good indeed

Well done. How tough is the foil though will it withstand normal handling or do you have to be super gentle with it.

Martyn

I like it Danny the in service look is what I opted for even fully restored aircraft with polished Ali are not flawless so I feel it is more realistic, and yes Martyn the foil is reasonably tough but will suffer a tear if nicked

Thanks guys the honesty is appreciated. I was with you Martyn eeeek!.... The under surface is really smooth and quite hard. The tape really sticks to a good surface and seems fairly tough. I really struggled to get an errant piece back off. The shiny cheap ducting foil shows finger prints and would be a mare. the distressed is better in that regard.

I tried some Mick Reeves MetalCoat just to see if it was any better, the surface is slightly less shiny, and in fairness it goes on better, after a quick rub with steel wool, I think it looks better, perhaps a little thicker and more even in thickness. I better order some more as i only have a small bit left.

Cheers

Danny

I (we) knew you were going to try that foil

And we say it looks good, go on with it

Hi Manish, So did I deep down. Not the same as litho plate but much much easier. But you still need a hard finsish underneath, hence the glassing.

Martin Fane has done some quick tests comparing FliteMetal and Mick Reeves Metalcoat. He think the Flitemetal slightly thicker. So I have some of both coming May do something else and come back to the sticky back metal in a few days.

Might look at the cockpit now. As I am throttling right back on the detail, I will keep it simple

Cheers

Danny

On no not loads of metal tape this is as bad as the silk saga will it ever end 😱 lol

Gosh I flaming hope so. Anyway I blame you

Just sprayed primer on the upper wing centre section, lower surface. This was silk over tissue, and about a dozen coats of dope. The primer looks like it has been sprayed over carpet..... sigh. Clearly the additional silk was still not sealed. I will sand it back, being careful not to go through the tissue over the ribs and see how it feels then.

My KlassKote Silver has arrived and I will try a coat. Then I can fit the wing to the centre-section permanently.

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 20/11/2019 14:02:48