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Danny Fenton27/11/2019 16:28:21
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9290 forum posts
4117 photos

Now you have me wandering off topic.........

English wheel from a C clamp....

Must focus....

Danny Fenton27/11/2019 16:57:59
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9290 forum posts
4117 photos

Ahhh it wasn't Proxxon, it was Chronos!

£194.......

Foxfan27/11/2019 17:25:20
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848 forum posts
6 photos

That's the kind of thing I have. Just a slightly bigger base. Useless for models except it's excellent for removing digs and dents in older sheets of material! A rather OTT use for such a machine, but a miniature would be good, or are you saying that IS a miniature, being Chronos and all that?

Martin

Foxfan27/11/2019 17:33:01
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848 forum posts
6 photos

I think I would use ball races as the flatter wheel and simply make new upper anvils (wheels) on my lathe and mount them on smaller ball races. I must give it some thought.

Martin

Martian27/11/2019 18:10:30
2260 forum posts
1091 photos

now that looks the job Danny but maybe still to big for the smaller litho work ... yes a silver solder video would be good particularly in relation to model making

Richard Mallam.27/11/2019 18:35:42
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56 forum posts
7 photos

Danny, thanks for the info regarding the blending stick.

Richard

Danny Fenton27/11/2019 20:16:21
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9290 forum posts
4117 photos

You are welcome Richard, I will confess I had not seen one before, but they are perfect for burnishing down the foil

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton27/11/2019 21:31:41
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9290 forum posts
4117 photos

Where were we......

grasped the nettle and took on the other bulge.....

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Close enough I think?

I was chatting to Martin F and he has done something different which I think would have been better. He has taken a mold from the glass bulges and is going to form the litho plate into the bulges. This should mean his will be identical. Mine are not, but befits the tired look I am looking for  (excuse No 27 in scale modellers rule book) embarrassed

Okay Martin F what next??

D

Edited By Danny Fenton on 27/11/2019 21:41:31

Danny Fenton27/11/2019 21:55:26
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9290 forum posts
4117 photos

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will -028/11/2019 17:36:16
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582 forum posts
19 photos

Looks great, pointy hawker biplanes really are good lookers, if hard to model.

I'm blessed by being just up the road from Duxford where there's usually at least two on site!

Danny Fenton30/11/2019 23:29:42
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9290 forum posts
4117 photos

Hi Will, cannot argue. But lots of work

Got the dope brush out again and finished off the 2nd layer of teabag tissue on the upper wing CS. two coats of thinned non shrink, and two of banana oil has it nicely sealed Still wondering about rib tapes....

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Seemed a shame not to take a look at the trim adjuster and tissue the remaining side of the fin while the dope brush was out wink 2

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Hopefully more tomorrow.

Cheers

Danny

Martin Fane01/12/2019 09:49:44
312 forum posts
319 photos

Hi Danny

Looking at your centre section, you seem to have some extra spanwise peices of balsa between some ribs. Whats this for ?

cheers

Martin

Danny Fenton01/12/2019 10:46:38
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9290 forum posts
4117 photos

Hi Martin, those webs or braces strengthen the outer rib from bowing under the tension of the tissue and dope. Spreads the load inboard. I should have made the 4 upper wing root ribs from ply really. The balsa was too thin, and too soft. But if you study the full size it is a bit gappy around the wing joins.

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 01/12/2019 10:47:38

Danny Fenton01/12/2019 18:12:44
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9290 forum posts
4117 photos

Added some heavyweight tissue rib tapes, not sure how successful this is going to be, but the surface needs something to bring it alive.

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Cheers

Danny

Martian01/12/2019 19:54:31
2260 forum posts
1091 photos

looks good Danny painting will show it up well

Danny Fenton02/12/2019 09:40:08
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9290 forum posts
4117 photos

Interesting.... well it is to me anyway crook

If you attach the heavyweight tissue wet (water) it softens the edges considerably and takes less dope.

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The rib tapes are applied dry, the strip along the leading edge was attached wet, the ridge is almost indiscernible when done with water...... Going to have to paint some silver to see which I prefer. And if indeed the wet method gives a visible edge.

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton02/12/2019 18:01:59
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9290 forum posts
4117 photos

Started covering the lower wings on Sunday. Started by adding twin carbon rods to the trailing edges for a little more resilience to knocks as I like the trailing edge fairly sharp. next a coat of sanding sealer, lightly rubbed down when completely dry with some 400 grit paper.

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Then I added the first layer of tissue to both sides, once the water had dried and the tissue taut, I added a coat of non shrink dope to both sides, applied in quick succession. Once dry I checked for warps and all is good.

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Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 02/12/2019 18:03:00

Danny Fenton03/12/2019 08:41:21
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9290 forum posts
4117 photos

2nd layer of tissue went on okay, and a coat of non shrink. The panel is ready for rib tapes, once i know what I am going to use. On with the next panel

430.jpg

Couldn't resist.......

Martyn K03/12/2019 09:12:44
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5005 forum posts
3658 photos

That looks so neat Danny.

Are you going to add the diagonal seam tapes?

Martyn

Danny Fenton03/12/2019 10:50:20
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9290 forum posts
4117 photos

Hi Martyn, yes I will, just need to see how well the the heavyweight tissue shows up when sprayed. If applied wet (water) then doped down, the edges are softer, which I prefer. This may be too subtle and the primer and paint obscure it. In which case I may have to apply it (or medium tissue) dry.

It is good that the model has dropped from being quite so serious, I am able to experiment with all kinds of covering. The tail-plane has silk over tissue, polyester chiffon, and rib tapes of torn Solartex. so all should give some answers

Cheers

Danny

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