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S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI

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Jose L. G.17/10/2018 18:31:51
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180 forum posts
133 photos
Hi Danny.
I don t see the ply doubler un the nose


I think It must be there
Danny Fenton17/10/2018 18:44:48
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9198 forum posts
4043 photos
Hi, very observant. No i didnt feel it was needed on the leccy version.
Because so much of the front comes off it nedds to be rigid, but I felt it was adequate without.
Cheers
Danny
Martin Fane18/10/2018 15:38:12
301 forum posts
311 photos

Hi Danny

Great progress on your fury, following with interest.

I was just pondering the electric options.

With the size of the battery bay as planned are the motor mount bolts / nuts and the triangular stock going to leave enough room for the selected battery packs

Cheers

Martin

Danny Fenton18/10/2018 15:47:49
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9198 forum posts
4043 photos

Hi Martin, and thanks. Yes there is enough room. The motor mount screws are an issue and well spotted. I will see if I can stick a pad inside, just thicker than the screw heads to protect the cells. The triangle strip doesn't intrude enough to matter. Though make sure your selected packs will fit!

fury45.jpg

fury46.jpg

I will probably cut the motor shaft stub off so that doesn't intrude either. Don't know why manufacturers still provide shafts so that the motor can be front monunted with a collet, not sure anybody does that these days.....

I have received my hex bolts and have mounted the bellcrank in its final position and glued the ply brace between the doublers. I can now plan the elevator servo position.

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 18/10/2018 16:32:16

Martin Fane18/10/2018 16:11:38
301 forum posts
311 photos

Danny

Thanks.

I was checking the dimensions quoted on the hobbyking site for the the zippy compact 5s 2700.

140mm x 27mm x 44mm suggests a pretty tight fit.

Perhaps these are what you have and they actually come slightly smaller?

Thanks again

Martin

Danny Fenton18/10/2018 16:34:50
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9198 forum posts
4043 photos

fury44.jpg

Missing pic from previous post

I just measured those cells and they are more like 140 x 25 x 45 but thats pretty close!

The bay will need packing as they will move around. There is room for a third cell should I need more duration.

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 18/10/2018 16:37:56

Danny Fenton18/10/2018 18:09:46
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9198 forum posts
4043 photos

I wanted to make sure that the tailplane seat angle was as per plan. The other builders have obviously figured this out but for those yet to do this part, I made temporary "gauge" traced from the plan to make sure it is accurate.

fury47.jpg

fury48.jpg

Anyway may get some more done tonight, need to catch up with everybody else!

Cheers

Danny

Tony Bennett18/10/2018 18:49:50
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5079 forum posts
129 photos

naaa, do it slowly and right, rather than fast and wrong.

Tony B

Danny Fenton18/10/2018 21:11:33
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9198 forum posts
4043 photos

A little more achieved this evening:

fury49.jpg

fury50.jpg

Cheers

Danny

Tony Bennett18/10/2018 21:59:10
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5079 forum posts
129 photos

looking good Danny.

nice and clean and neat, as per usual.

Tony B

Danny Fenton18/10/2018 23:26:38
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9198 forum posts
4043 photos

Thanks Tony, one has to make an effort

As has already been mentioned it is best to use a piece of scrap to set up the position of the diagonal side formers.

fury51.jpg

A permagrit slotting tool makes light work of setting the stringer slot angle.

fury52.jpg

As I think both Andy and Tony have stated, there is something strange going on with the side sections. FS2 is so far out it may be from a different model!

It is actually worse than Andy and Tony may realise. I have a glass cowl and when you present that to the front, they are ALL to wide!!!

I think F4 is too narrow and that is why the upper bulkheads seem too wide. certainly too late for me to put right on mine, and as most of you seem to be ahead of me, too late for yours too.

All we can do is shape them in situ. Deja Vu Chippy builders?

On that note I am off to bed, it will look better in the morning, it always does.........

fury53.jpg

Danny Fenton19/10/2018 12:04:01
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9198 forum posts
4043 photos

I have a cowl that a friend has loaned me to help line things up.

Some minor tweeking of F1 will be needed to bring it all into allignment.

As I want to make several of the panels from Litho plate I am probably not going to use a glass cowl.

fury54.jpg

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton19/10/2018 17:51:30
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9198 forum posts
4043 photos

Adding the cross grain sections is fairly straightforward. You don't really need to bother tracing the shape from the plan, just cut sections wider than you need. Having done one side adding the side formers first then the cross grain, I think it will be easier to add the cross grain first so have done this on the starboard side. This gives us a clear upper edge to mount the side formers against.

fury60.jpg

I found the 1/4" Permagrit slotting bar sits nicely across the fus to give us a flush and perfectly angled section. Don't worry about the shape just yet that is defined by the side formers. I will show you how they are shaped later.

fury59.jpg

Lets see if the bulkheads on the starboard side go any easier.....

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 19/10/2018 17:52:49

Danny Fenton19/10/2018 18:35:44
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9198 forum posts
4043 photos

Used the adjacent stringers to allign FS5.

fury61.jpg

Once the formers are in position I used the permagrit slotting tool to sand slots in the cross grain sheeting to indicate the depth of the former

fury62.jpg

fury63.jpg

Then allowing a little sanding leeway saw through the balsa, linking the slots.

fury64.jpg

fury65.jpg

I am a little surprised there isn't another former under F6 on the starboard side, seems a long gap for the sheeting. I might add one.

fury66.jpg

On the iso drawings at the top of the plan the wide top stringer is shown as only going back as far as F7 then another narrower stringer goes from F7 rearwards.

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton22/10/2018 11:32:35
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9198 forum posts
4043 photos

It was pointed out to me that I had omitted the upper and lower diagonals so have added them, I have seen a couple of interpretations of their fitment, so I thought I would show mine.

fury67.jpg

The triangular tang is nothced slightly with a Permagrit slotting tool. I didn't want to run the brace over the tang, and i also didn't want to cut into it too harshly, those tangs take much of the tailskid loads!

Same method was used for the upper diagonal brace.

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 22/10/2018 11:35:15

McG 696922/10/2018 11:42:38
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2620 forum posts
991 photos

Hi Danny,

Are you still only using your Rocket CA so far? Or do you use some Aliphatic or PVA for some parts as well?

I never used CA before; would the Green Zap-o-Gap be fine as well?

Great idea to simply notch the triangular bits, btw. yes

Cheers

Chris

2W22/10/2018 14:44:23
79 forum posts
18 photos

fury67.jpg

Danny, the bottom 3/16" thick tail piece you have used leaves a gap behind F11 of 1/16". The plan shows this piece as 1/4" thick, but tapering up to towards the rudder. If this piece is made using 1/4" thick balsa sheet and the tangs below the slots are shaved 1/16" to match the end of the struts, this tail piece will match the bottom of F11. I suppose the alternative is to fit some 1/16" sheet and then sand it to match the plan.

William

Danny Fenton22/10/2018 15:28:02
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9198 forum posts
4043 photos

Hi William I am not sure i understand

I sanded my top and bottom fanged pieces to 3/16 because the slots in F11 were 3/16. and the side view showed them as 3/16. I guessed the text was wrong.....

Danny Fenton23/10/2018 00:06:16
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9198 forum posts
4043 photos

Very little time this evening to get much done, Dad Taxi was on call.....

I added the 1/8th cross grain sections at the top of the fuselage from F4 to F8, this is not very clear on the plan, but I think I have it right.

fury71.jpg

fury70.jpg

You will see the odd piece of 1/8th square, these are added where the joint hasn't been as good as i would like and just makes sure. the wood is soft so doesn't add much weight.

The cross grain sections are trimmed to shape, by first marking a line formed by curving some balsa along the outside edge of the formers. The ends held in place with hair grips, these are really useful when wanting a light clamp. (Thanks Mr Sephton for that little gem).

fury68.jpg

fury69.jpg

I appreciate this is teaching some to suck eggs, but please bear with me there are others that are new to all this.

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton25/10/2018 22:01:17
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9198 forum posts
4043 photos

Want to thank Tony for the cockpit frames, they look fab

fury84.jpg

Cheers

Danny

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