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S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI

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Danny Fenton18/05/2020 19:43:01
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9496 forum posts
4312 photos

Thanks chaps, omit the oleos, and this would have been considerably easier.

But where is the fun in that

Cheers

Danny

Jose L. G.19/05/2020 10:05:12
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209 forum posts
178 photos

Beautiful work Danny.

Mine will be a "comical" reproduction of that.angel

José Luis

Danny Fenton19/05/2020 10:11:41
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9496 forum posts
4312 photos

Thanks again for your kind words

In case you are curious as to the inner workings I have done this rough drawing.

oleo and cover.jpg

I can add dimensions if anybody needs them. But I guess each will have to modify their own.

If you made this in glassed balsa, and then covered in foil it would be fine, and probably much quicker!!!

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton19/05/2020 11:21:04
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9496 forum posts
4312 photos

oleo and cover.jpg

Danny Fenton19/05/2020 18:29:13
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9496 forum posts
4312 photos

well it seems I wasn't very clear with all that LOL

So for those of you that were not paying attention at the back, that's you laddie!!!

We shall take it more slowly

548.jpg

First of all you need three (in fact 4 there's a thin one for the cap too) ribs/formers whatever LOL

Sand the centre hole then slide them on the upper leg, then final sand the outer shape whilst using a sanding block at 90 degrees to ensure they are true.

549.jpg

Wipe the Litho plate with acetone to remove whatever it is they put on litho plate lol, it screws up the adhesion of the CA and makes it hard to form. Sticks to the forming tool.

550.jpg

Tack the ribs/formers to the upper oleo just to keep them true. Add the trailing edge piece, this is required to give you something to attach the litho at the ends.

545.jpg

I don't know why the forum is rotating my pics, I am afraid there is nothing I can do. It just hates portrait mode pics for me.

But you get the idea, lip lube is great for lubing the litho during forming and stops the steel tools from picking up alloy fragments. Vaseline also works.

553.jpg

Probably would be easier to fill the dished alloy with filler, but either way something to add strength while you sand the edges flush, before fitting to the upper oleo cover body.

554.jpg

Thus

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton19/05/2020 18:43:19
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9496 forum posts
4312 photos

Cont'd

 

Okay if you are still paying attention.....

The 3mm hole in the top of the oleo has to be exact. How do we do this?

555.jpg

The easy way is to sharpen some 3mm piano wire, clamp it into the upper oleo rod, slide it into the upper cover until it is seated fully. Then turn the unit upside down and rest the top of the cover on a firm but not hard, surface, I used my cutting mat, then gently tapped the oleo, the sharpened piano wire left an indent in the cover. That's where you drill. I started small and opened up with a needle file. You cay feed the oleo with the piano wire in the top up through the cover as you file it larger to check the fit. Remember to orientate the oleo in its final position with the grub screw at the front. This will push the piano wire to the rear of the hole in the oleo, which is where the hole needs to be. If you turn the oleo through 180 you will see the hole no longer lines up..... I bet I lost half of you with "are you still paying attention"....****sigh**** shining the bright light of scale knowledge into your eyes is a hard task sometimes, but I am told a noble cause, so I will continue......

557.jpg

The lower transition piece is fairly easy once you have made the former.

Wrap the litho around the former and tape it tightly on. Making sure the ends just meet. The more accurate here the neater the final finish. Then sand the litho flush with the former. Remove and add the chamfered upper rib/former form the beginning. You do remember the three ribs????

561.jpg

Again appols for the rotating of the pictures I have reported it but it seems I am the only one with an issue.

If you look closely the litho is held together at the rear with sellotape. A thin strip of litho is shaped to fit inside, and overlap the join. This is neater than the one yesterday, so don't be surprised to see this picture in the next column either

563.jpg

The lower oleo is simply covered in a piece of litho and joined at the rear in a teardro shape. I glue a 1mm alloy rod to the inside of one face, then glue the other face to the rod. When sanded the litho and the alloy road can be merged and there is no visible join. Its a very neat trick.

566.jpg

A smear of silicon aquarium sealant holds the teardrop shaped skin to the lower oleo.

565.jpg

And there you have the set of parts, ready for assembly

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 19/05/2020 19:02:51

Danny Fenton19/05/2020 18:44:24
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9496 forum posts
4312 photos

Oh and of course for those that were paying attention:

567.jpg

Cheers

Danny

P.S. glad that's behind me..............need wine

Martyn K19/05/2020 19:13:23
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5080 forum posts
3678 photos

I have been paying attention.

All you have top do now is mass produce them for the rest of the forumites laugh

Absolutely beautiful.

Martyn

Danny Fenton19/05/2020 19:40:41
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9496 forum posts
4312 photos

Lol thx Martyn, joking aside they have been fun. The second one not as well fitting, but fit over the lower oleo is better. Maybe after a few more I might get one right crook

But really i dont want to do another oleo for at least a week wink 2

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 19/05/2020 19:41:12

Martian19/05/2020 21:09:23
2485 forum posts
1163 photos

Very nice Danny and I followed every word by the way I can wait a week

Martin Fane20/05/2020 09:14:37
341 forum posts
361 photos

Hi Danny

Great tutorial, those oleo covers look the business.

Ive had the same issues with photos rotating, strange that some do and some don't crying

Now where's my like of lithoplaate, I think there will be some wastage sad

Cheers

Martin

Danny Fenton20/05/2020 09:26:45
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9496 forum posts
4312 photos

Thanks Chaps.

I have done a bit of work with Chris Bott looking at the reason for the issue. It seems most phone cameras take pictures in landscape, then add an EXIF field to say rotate 90 degrees. Most modern software can read the exif data and rotates the image. However it looks like our forum cannot read them, so any portrait pics will come out wrong

My fix is to snip the image on the pc and save it that way. Seems to work but adds a bit of work to something that is already a bit cumbersome.

Doping the centre section maybe at lunch time.

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton20/05/2020 23:04:05
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9496 forum posts
4312 photos

Okay the centre section is done and ready for paint.

I moved onto the tail end of the fuselage, checked that the tailplane seat is level with the fuselage and it is within .1 of a degree. So should be okay. I added the horns and the closed loop wires, not finalised the wire anchors yet, heat-shrink might work, but may look for some fine alloy tube perhaps. The pull pull line is used guitar string.

571.jpg

The tailplane isn't glued on yet, but the incidence was checked and is minus 4.1 degrees, ie nose-down. The wings are at +3 degrees (to datum)

A quick chat with ace builder Richard Dalgleish confirmed that his cruises with a level elevator (plan incidence).

572.jpg

Oh.... I glued the hinges as well. I wrapped masking tape around the hinges to pad them out enough so that they gripped the 1/16 slots in both the tail-plane and elevator.

Hopefully fix the Tailplane onto the fus tomorrow. Martin thinks it would be better to paint them first, but something is drawing me to fitting them first, then paint. No doubt he will be right, and I will have overlooked a good reason.....

Cheers

Danny

Eric Robson21/05/2020 08:25:55
179 forum posts
33 photos

Hi Danny, the oleo's are fantastic! at first glance I thought you had you had painted your fury in less time than it took to make the oleos. Regarding the tail plane incidence it seems it will fly nose down with a level t/p very much like a Whitley bomber. My uncle worked on Whitley's during the war and said when they were flying it looked like they had a broken back.

Cheers Eric.

Danny Fenton22/05/2020 15:43:51
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9496 forum posts
4312 photos

I have been having an interesting debate with Andy Sephton about this. Dennis appears to have drawn the plan with more than 4 degrees positive incidence, ie nose down. This is about the maximum nose down trim. It would be convention that the tail-plane should be at zero to the thrust line, and the wings plus to this.
We were expecting Richard's model, with the plan specified incidence, to have some up elevator trim for straight and level, but the elevator is inline with the tail-plane. Andy has a suspicion that the plan was drawn based on the three view with the tail-plane incidence set for high speed flight!

So Andy has set his tail-plane to zero incidence, I have left mine as per the plan. We will see.........

Cheers

Danny

Eric Robson22/05/2020 17:48:14
179 forum posts
33 photos

.Looking on the Vintage Aviation silver wings site the take off and landing photos of the fury appear to show the tail plane level also the picture of the Fury and Nimrods flying the tails look level it does look like a gap under them in the picture.

Danny Fenton22/05/2020 18:30:54
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9496 forum posts
4312 photos

Hi Eric, but that doesn't explain how Richard's is flying with no trim??

Anyway we will see.

573.jpg

574.jpg

Did a little more litho work, these look better in the flesh, the camera does flatten the image.

Anyway the larger panel is not attached yet and cannot be until the model is painted and all controls connected to the rear. Probably attach it with a thin bead of silicon, in case I need to get at the tail-wheel and or elevator bits.

I know Martin F is going to curse me for adding laces Sorry Martin couldn't resist....

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton22/05/2020 23:56:08
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9496 forum posts
4312 photos

The lacing in the litho plate got me thinking if there is a way to simulate the lacing on the foiled sections.

So I made a bifurcated needle, took some balsa and gave it a layer of foil. Now the balsa has not got a layer of glass so is not firm, but I think the idea has merit. Whether I have the courage to make holes in my Fury is another matter.

Several panels on the Fury are retained by laces.

575.jpg

576.jpg

Martin really is going to have kittens!

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 22/05/2020 23:56:28

Eric Robson23/05/2020 08:39:20
179 forum posts
33 photos

Looking good Danny, there must have been many Fury's built to the plan as it has been out since the 1970's so I am sticking with it. It would need a long thin lead screw to make the tail plane adjustable. My rivets were done with a riveting tool I bought when building brass locomotives. On the strips next to stitching I riveted one side then turned it over and done the other side to look like holes for the stitching, then I will use a bow pen and enamel paint for the stitches .

Cheers Eric.

Danny Fenton23/05/2020 16:20:48
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9496 forum posts
4312 photos

Managed a little time in the workshop and teased some litho cable exits using a 1/4 ply block hollowed out to suit.

The first was with thin litho (.015mm) the second the thicker. (.3mm) The latter produces a better finish but is harder work.

577.jpg

578.jpg

I am skirting around gluing the tail-plane on...... need to get on with it!

Cheers

Danny

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