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S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI

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Danny Fenton05/06/2020 20:29:21
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Had a drop of silver left, and it doesn't keep more than a few hours.

So even though i will have to re-spray this red (or yellow) had to add some colour to see how Chris 3d spinner would look.

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Cheers

Danny

Chris Bott - Moderator05/06/2020 21:11:58
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Wow look at that! Hasn't that come up nice?

Danny Fenton05/06/2020 21:45:48
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Yes its hard to believe those ridges can all be blended so well.

Really love it Chris, and thanks again

Martyn K06/06/2020 08:31:02
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That does look superb Danny.

Absolutely lovely.

Gary Clark 106/06/2020 19:37:07
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That's has come out great Danny. I 3D printed a cowl for a Ballerina I built a few weeks ago as an experiment to see if using a 3D printed cowl was even feasible. Only took 2 coats of primer and that's the result after a coat of acrylic paint.

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I've just designed one for my 1/4 scale moth minor so hopefully that works as well as yours

Gary

Danny Fenton06/06/2020 19:55:02
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That looks great Gary well done. 3D printing is definitely a powrrful weapon for the scale modellers arsenal.

For competition it raises lots of questions. If you designed the part then fine in my books. But under the builder of the model rule the competitor would have to declare that the modeller did not make the part, if you used somebody elses STL file.

Send a pic of the moth cowl when you have it printed?

Cheers

Danny

Dwain Dibley.06/06/2020 20:24:52
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Technology can be a double edged sword, Chums...

D.D.

Gary Clark 107/06/2020 21:38:39
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Sorry, I worded that poorly. It's actually the spinner I am printing for the moth, cowl is pretty big so would need to be a few parts glued together.

I totally agree regarding competition. Not sure how using a 3d printed part to make a mould from then make your own FG one would fall with the rules though? Technically you have made the part? Not sure really. Chances are you'd be making your own STL files anyway as the part is custom and not available anywhere else but it's certainly something that will become more frequent in the future I'm guessing.

Gary

Edited By Gary Clark 1 on 07/06/2020 21:39:04

Danny Fenton07/06/2020 22:46:14
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9627 forum posts
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Hi Gary, there are lots of opinions. Not all I agree with.

I am sure its something that will crop up in the near future, and the powers that be have to make a ruling.

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton08/06/2020 11:56:47
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9627 forum posts
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Managed a fairly productive weekend.

All the silver is now sprayed, the wings are hardening off in the garage at the moment.

Wish I had some colour, and could keep cracking.

I guess I will just have to do some detailing on the fuselage.

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I guess you are all aware of this little trick?

686.jpg

Cheers

Danny

Martyn K08/06/2020 14:49:07
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5084 forum posts
3678 photos

Hi Danny

They look great

How did you manage to spray behind the ailerons?

Martyn

Martyn K08/06/2020 14:50:56
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PS

What's the little trick?

M

Danny Fenton08/06/2020 16:44:51
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9627 forum posts
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Hi Martyn, I moved the ailerons fully one way, sprayed what was visible, then fully the other way and did likewise. Including the aileron ends and exposed wing ribs.

The trick is the "V" of tape over the can of paint. The "V" makes the paint pout into another container easily, and doesn't go all over the side of the can. Very little is on the tape afterwards, but is easily "glooped" back into the can. Especially important with this silver KK its like syrup!

Works on any pot that has a lip and you have to pour, especially useful when the pot is freshly opened.

Cheers

Danny

Richard Mallam.08/06/2020 18:54:50
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58 forum posts
7 photos

Hi Danny, I am still very much following your build, learning much and enjoying. Silence does not mean a lack of appreciation!

A little off topic, but nevertheless a question for you and others. I am impressed spinner you have had printed (and others have printed a cowl) and I am wondering what sort of printers are being used here and what type might be most suitable for the RC plane modeller. I am thinking of buying one and so any suggested links would be really helpful.

Richard

Edited By Richard Mallam. on 08/06/2020 18:55:40

Danny Fenton08/06/2020 19:45:14
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9627 forum posts
4449 photos

Hi Richard glad you are getting something from the build. I am afraid I am not really able to answer your questions re 3D printing, and will bow to the others, Chris, Gary and Tony? do you want to share what you are using?

Cheers

Danny

Chris Bott - Moderator08/06/2020 20:33:48
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This is very off topic so I think if further discussion is required we'd better make a new thread or move to an existing one on this subject.

The spinner was printed on a Creality Ender 3 Pro. But only having had the one printer, I can't claim to have much knowledge on chosing one. This printer proved to be a good one to start with, particularly at that price point.

Most of this will sound negative, don't let that put you off, it's just a list of some of the frustrations.

I did find it tedious to have to level the print bed for almost every print, but it just needs doing. I've added a number of upgrades, most of which are cheap enough to buy. The best one though has been "auto bed levelling" but that required both adding of hardware and an update of software. Doing the software required connecting to the main PCB, using the Arduino IDE and making config changes in the actual firmware, so it's not for the feint hearted.

I think more importantly, you need to be able to design your own objects so it's equally important to find a way to do that. I'm still trying to learn the Fusion 360 software package and am doing OK. It's still hard to pick up again if I have a break from it though.

More recently I've been having trouble with print settings and there can be hundreds of settings, depending on the slicing software you use. I believe it's down to inconsistency in the PLA materials I'm buying, but it could be wear in the machine or something I'm not understanding yet. It's frustrating to have bad prints come off just because you've started a new reel.

Martian08/06/2020 20:46:47
2529 forum posts
1163 photos

I use both an Anet8 and Prusai3 mk3 . once set up the Anet 8 produces good results but not fine it required careful setting up of the bed it can be a fiddle but is tolerant of most PLA filament. The Prusa is an excellent machine with very good support print in finer detail and has a bigger print bed once set up I stick to the same filament Sunlu I have found is consistent in thickness .both machines are self build although the Prusa can be bought already built there is a huge price difference between the Anet 8 and the Prusa .the Prusa is my go-to printer .

Eric Robson08/06/2020 21:23:40
265 forum posts
49 photos

Back on topic, those wings are looking good . What will be the final markings, Fury or Nimrod?

Cheers Eric.

Danny Fenton08/06/2020 21:28:47
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9627 forum posts
4449 photos

I thought I would take a break from paint and the spinner which is being a pain to get to run true.....

I am quite sad in that I fall asleep analysing bits of the build to come, usually asleep before I can solve them, but just sometimes I awake with a good idea.

The problem is how to re-create the leather cockpit combing on the Duxford Fury. It is blue grey leather and it is laced to the aircraft. Such an elegant way to build an aeroplane.

Anyway, everybody sees leather and thinks I need to replicate that, where do i find thin leather. And that is indeed one rout. However if you step back and look at the shape you want to create other materials might come to mind.

This is one of those prime example.....

Okay just to remind you here is the subject:

688.jpg

I was visualising this for ages, but the missing link was what material to use? Andy Sephton and I were bouncing ideas around about how to do the rudder and elevator exit cables, when he said how about Vector Board?

I laughed, then stopped laughing..... He was right, the thin syuff is quite a bit like leather in feel, and the thin stuff is .25mm thick!!

So here in pictures unfolds how I did it:

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And there we have it.

I have never seen this done before, a big thank you to Andy for planting that seed of an idea in this old noggin.

I will use this same techniques for all the leather cable exits, but brown leather, rather than the grey.

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton08/06/2020 21:37:32
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Posted by Eric Robson on 08/06/2020 21:23:40:

Back on topic, those wings are looking good . What will be the final markings, Fury or Nimrod?

Cheers Eric.

Hi Eric, thanks I was trying for a better gloss, I mainly build warbirds in matt colors so have really been enjoying honing my skills with gloss, much harder to use and get right, especially silver. Anyway in a way that these are just off-full gloss is probably closer to the full size.

I think the key here is to know your airbrush, I am using an IWATA HP2 that was a present from my long suffering better half a few years ago. Although I think it is too small for larger work, it is not. I have fed it with a full size compressor for the wings. The small workshop compressor put aside in this instance.

Anyway I really wanted to do the bright yellow of the Nimrod, but I just cannot paint a Fury 1 as a Nimrod, it goes against my grain. So it is going to be K5674 Guy Black's Duxford based Fury.

Cheers

Danny

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