By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by CML

Fouga magister 1/4.5 moulded from scratch

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
dirk tinck20/07/2020 18:16:59
avatar
655 forum posts
922 photos

Thanks for the e-mail with the exhaust pictures Chris !

As much as i loved the sabre build, the magister was never out of sight ! Everybody has a favorite plane i guess...Mine is the magister !

McG 696920/07/2020 19:41:16
avatar
3365 forum posts
1282 photos

Hi Dirk,

Mostly welcome regarding the exhaust pics.

Let me know what your dimension is and I 'll do my best for it.

Looking at your dedication for the Magister, no doubt it must be your favourite...

Cheers

Chris

dirk tinck28/07/2020 12:22:53
avatar
655 forum posts
922 photos

Painted the tail parts after cleaning up the panel lines as the dremel tool leaves a rough surface and it all showes in the finished parts ! Next move is to prepare the parting board. The two parts have to be burried in the brown plate ,just up to their centerline. Then the moulding can start all over againsmile.

20200726_220537.jpg

dirk tinck28/07/2020 23:52:51
avatar
655 forum posts
922 photos

first task was to glue the parting board on a piece of foam to get some space under it (minimum half the thickness of the rudder )

Then cutted the openings for the parts, plus one mm.

Made some supports for the parts from scrap foam , to glue under the parts so that they ''float'' in the openings with the upper side of the parting board in line with the centerline of the parts.

To make the mould stiffer i placed pieces of parting board arround the parts.

Next thing to do is fill all the gaps with plasticine to avoid the resin leaking through and to become sharp edges.

20200728_235012.jpg

20200728_235029.jpg

Phil Cooke29/07/2020 08:10:21
avatar
2647 forum posts
1851 photos

Hi Dirk great work as always! What material do you use for your parting board and box walls? It looks like ply but it has a glossy laminated surface!?

dirk tinck30/07/2020 00:11:19
avatar
655 forum posts
922 photos

Hi Phil !

Sorry for the late reply but i just got back from the slope i n Calaiswink

About your question :Yes it is plywood for outdoor use and it is laminated on both sides with a waterproof layer.

In the thicker version ,like 18mm is used for concrete castings.It's relativ cheap too ,like 20€ for a 4mm thick plate 1.22M by 2.44M.

A great benefit is that epoxy does NOT stick to it , exept when you sand it rough.

Are you planning to mould something ?

Reuben Saliba30/07/2020 06:59:18
9 forum posts

Hi Dirk, is there a brand name on it? Trying to see if it is available locally. Thanks

Reuben

Edited By Reuben Saliba on 30/07/2020 06:59:55

dirk tinck30/07/2020 10:03:57
avatar
655 forum posts
922 photos

Hi Reuben ,it's called betonplex here, i find it at any DIYstore but can't find a brand on it...

Ben Van Raemdonck30/07/2020 10:28:52
3 forum posts
7 photos

Try searching concrete multiplex or filmfaced multiplex.

dirk tinck30/07/2020 10:39:05
avatar
655 forum posts
922 photos

Also try phenolic plywood

Reuben Saliba30/07/2020 23:19:05
9 forum posts

Thanks for your replies. Much appreciated !

Reuben

dirk tinck31/07/2020 00:18:51
avatar
655 forum posts
922 photos

your welcome Reuben !

To get the two moulds lined up (after moulding)to eachother you need a system . Normally i take care of this when the two moulds are made ,but i'm going to try a methode a lot of modellers use : with marbels. In my case metal balls from a car drive shaft.

I drilled holes on the corners of the parting board so that the metal balls fit in just upto their center. This is going to leave half a sphere in the top mould. These spheres are going to be filled when making the bottom mould leaving half balls on it, who will fit perfect in the spheres from the top mould. additional bolts will keep the moulds together .

Next thing to do is fill the gaps between plug and parting board with plasticine.After that it's polishing , waxing and we're ready to laminate !

x20200731_001050.jpg

20200731_001101.jpg

Thanks for visiting and stay tuned ! Everything will be clear in the next steps !wink

Reuben Saliba31/07/2020 13:54:41
9 forum posts

Dirk I normally use those stick on silicone round tabs. The ones they put under glass. Works well for me. They are usually a throw away after use thing.

Reuben

dirk tinck31/07/2020 16:44:12
avatar
655 forum posts
922 photos

I know they exist Reuben, i just haven't seen them.Only smaller versions they use on furniture doors.

I will try them when i find them ,less work !

dirk tinck14/08/2020 23:19:46
avatar
655 forum posts
922 photos

We now have themperatures round 32 deg. so its impossible to work with epoxy the last couple of day's.

This work is from just before the heatwave :

The rudder together with the partingboard were waxed 6 times and treated with pva.

After drying half an hour ,i painted the combo with the black moulding resin instead of gel coat.(don't like gel coat).

20200804_205536.jpg

,The glass together with clear resin has to be applyed before this dry's out ,to get good bonding.

I used 1 layer of 50grms , 1 layer of 100 grms and 6 layers of 200 grms. Sharp corners like leading edge and sides were first filled with a mix of resin and cotton flakes ,to make it thicker like nutella choco pasteteeth 2.This makes the laminating of glass cloth easyer

20200805_215048.jpg

The edges were already cleaned up in the last photo.

This all dryed very quick in 25+ themperatures so i could remove ''the box'' from the first mould, the next day.

20200805_220253.jpg

After removing the plasticine rests , the foam supporting blocks and the protec tive blue tape , i cleaned up the new mould .

The combo is upside -down now and the black part is the new mould

x20200806_233056.jpg

With everything clean , you can see the half spheres ,formed with the metal balls.

Time to wax and start over for the opposite mould !!

Phil Cooke15/08/2020 08:10:49
avatar
2647 forum posts
1851 photos

Beautiful and highly skilled work Dirk! thumbs up

McG 696915/08/2020 09:32:02
avatar
3365 forum posts
1282 photos

Top quality result as usual, Dirk.

I had the same here in Zaventem with the heatwave.

Way too hot to give proper results and not even fun for practicing our hobby...

Apparently next week is going to be 'cooler'. Let's hope...

Cheers & stay safe

Chris

dirk tinck22/08/2020 23:38:10
avatar
655 forum posts
922 photos

Hi all !

For the first time in 2 weeks , the themperature in my workspace (2nd floor and no windows )is dropped to 25 deg.

It's still hot to work but i want to move-on !

The top-mould together with the rudder plug were waxed and treated with PVA.

Thesame as the topside ,this combo is covered with the black mould resin followed by glass weave and epoxy resin. Again i used 1 layer of 50gr. ,1 layer of 100 gr. ,and 6 layers of 200 gr. In this themperatures this should be dry by tomorrow , and ready to clean-up.

After this i can get the plug out of the moulds ,if all goes well...embarrassed

20200822_213851.jpg

20200822_230047.jpg

Will be making rudders soon now !!wink

dirk tinck28/08/2020 23:07:06
avatar
655 forum posts
922 photos

Hi all !

As i expected last session,the epoxy hardened overnight and i could demould the rudder the day after.

The wax and PVA did a good job so that the rudder popped out on the first twist !

I am also very satisfied with the way the two moulds line-up using ''the marbel methode''smiley!

There's just a minor issue at the top of the left mould.A little piece of moulding resin at the edge cracked during demoulding. This will be filled with a drop of resin and sanded after hardening.

I just have the drill the holes to bolt the two moulds together and we're good to go !

20200823_173946.jpg

It will take some time untill the next post as i have to order some supplies for the vacuming process .

This is the first time i'm going to do this (vacuming) but it's the only way to sandwich a foam layer between two glass layers. Some testing learned me that 1mm ''airex'' foam between two layers of 80gr glass is enough to make exreem strong parts and keeping them VERY light .

Stay tuned ! This is going to be interesting !wink

dirk tinck15/09/2020 22:24:45
avatar
655 forum posts
922 photos

Hi all !

While i'm waiting for the right materials and setting up a proper vacuum system, i made new moulds for the tail cone.The original ones suffered from gelcoat seperation.

I used a test piece (from the original moulds)as plug to make a set of new moulds without gelcoat.

a first new tail cone came out perfect and lighter than the old ones due to less layers of fabric :124 gr versus 72 gr and still strong enough.

x20200915_215923.jpg

20200915_215952.jpg

I really need the rudders now to fit the cone and go on with the fuselageangry!

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Sussex Model Centre
CML
Slec
electricwingman 2017
Sarik
Advertise With Us
Latest "For Sale" Ads
NEW POLL - has the pandemic altered your event safety perceptions?
Q: Has the covid pandemic deterred you from attending shows and events in 2021?

 No, I'll be attending just as many as I usually do
 No, but I'll choose my event with greater care
 Yes, I'll attend fewer events going forward
 Yes, I wont attend any where previously I have

Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find RCM&E!