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Fouga magister 1/4.5 moulded from scratch

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dirk tinck10/10/2020 00:19:47
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

Almost forgot : the support blocks for the rudder mass balancers:

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will add them tomorrow !clockmoon

dirk tinck13/10/2020 23:10:17
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

With everything cleaned up inside , it's time to close the moulds for the rudder.

To be sure the glue doesn't stick to the moulds , i waxed both the parts (on the outside )and the moulds with mould release wax.

I made up 100gr epoxy resin and added cotton flakes untill it wasn't running anymore and glued all the touching area's

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then closed the moulds. Fingers crossed !!

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I used candy bags with the tip cut off to spread the glue.

After bolting the moulds together , it's waiting for the epoxy to cure and open up the two halves.

If everything goes as planned ,we have a rudder tomorrow !!wink 2

McG 696914/10/2020 17:14:45
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3456 forum posts
1320 photos

... wishing you all the best with your rudder 'extraction', Dirk.

With all that neat work, I'm convinced it's going to be superb... yes

Cheers & keep careful, young man

Chris

dirk tinck14/10/2020 23:43:30
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

Hi all !!

Good news !! The first rudder is a fact ! A milestone for me as it's the first closed and vacuum formed part i've ever made.

The parts came out without any mechanical intervention ,just a little twist on the moulds and they popped out. I may have used a little to much glue wich crawled between the two moulds but that's why i waxed them . They do need a good clean-up now !Most of the exess glue came out with the parts and formed a thin film at the seam.It's amazing how far it got in there !

I'm very pleased with the result ,especially the stiffness of the parts !It's like a full wooden plank ! That brings me to the weight : 220gr for the rudder and 102gr for the moving part. I'm sure i can get 20 or 30 gr off !

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After a bit of cleaning and inspecting the seam , they look really good ! the test with the horn already glued in was very rewarding too, that's a lot of time saved ! Last thing i did was open-up the root-rib for the joiner.No problem here either as it slid right in the tube meaning there was no glue in there ,thesame for the anti-rotation pin,i cleaned the opening right after i closed the moulds , all good.

Next days i will fit the servo and hinges , stay tuned and stay safe all !!

Phil Cooke15/10/2020 09:28:49
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2666 forum posts
1858 photos

Brilliant stuff Dirk, congrats!! A major milestone for sure! party

Does the glue squeezed between the two mould halves clean up easily with the wax applied??

dirk tinck15/10/2020 10:11:18
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

Hi Phil ! Yes ,it's not a big problem. Most of it was blown away with compressed air and the rest came of with a wooden spatula. Next time i'll try to be more carefull with the glueembarrassed!

dirk tinck15/10/2020 23:12:43
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

Tonight i further cleaned up the rudder parts and started with the required openings : for the anti-rotation pin , servo , joiner , the attachment system to the fuse and the trailing edge to accept the moving part of the rudder.

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Here you can see the servo opening in the second rib (inside)

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The slot next to the joiner opening is needed for the fixation to the fuse. A metal or aluminum plate will slide in both the fuse and the rudder.Later more on this. For clarity i took a wooden stick with the opening for a M5 bolt marked.Remember the roundel on the little spar ?

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Carfully opened the trailing edge with a dremel and sandpaper supported with a wooden stickand a round file for the thin part at the tip.

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Time for a fit to the fuse !!

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Couldn't have dreamed it any better !It fits perfect left and right !

x

dirk tinck15/10/2020 23:29:26
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

With the rudder fitted to the fuse ,i can go on with the tail cone. I need to fill the space between rudder and tail cone ,and add this part to the cone. When all this fits the cone will serve as plug for the new cone.

On the PSS fouga ,these parts were balsa and glued on the cone. This proved not strong enough and showed cracks after a while.

The last pic for today shows the inside of the fuse seen from behind . I marked the position of the rudder fixation on the former (aprox.)to get the idea of the system.

The mark on the rudder shows the position for the fixation bolt

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alan p16/10/2020 10:01:20
314 forum posts
25 photos

to paraphrase a old tv series " Its nice when a plan comes together" model making at it's bestthumbs up

dirk tinck19/10/2020 23:08:39
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

Just to make things clearing: This is the area that needs to be filled and added to the tail cone. 20201019_235923.jpg

dirk tinck24/10/2020 00:30:55
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

Hi all !

The last few day's i have been working out a easy way to adapt the tail cone to the rudders. Fact is , there is no easy way ...The biggest problem is to replace the cone in exact thesame position ,every time i take it off.

therefore i came up with a sliding system . I looked for two tubes who fit over each other and glued one in a former at the end of the fuse and the other in a former in the tailcone. The best option was a square tube so the cone wouldn't rotate.

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Once in the right position , i glued them in with epoxy.

Next thing was to fill the openings between cone and rudders with balsa wedges .To make this combo rigid , i glued in some carbon rods.

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All the balsa parts are undersised because they still have to be glassed , filled and painted , so they will ''grow''a bit.

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xNext day's i'll clean everything up and prepare the new cone for moulding.It will be a challenge as the mould will exist in three parts because of the complexe shape. Thanks for watching and try to stay safe !!

dirk tinck24/10/2020 00:35:40
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

Sorry , the balsa parts are UNDERSIZED !!embarrassed

Stephen Jones24/10/2020 15:27:21
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2901 forum posts
1657 photos

Fantastic .

I have enjoyed watching this build.

Fascinating how you come up with solutions.

Steve

dirk tinck24/10/2020 22:49:54
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

Thanks for the interest Stephen!

That's why i love a scratch build :No plans, no rules just Get the job done!

dirk tinck25/10/2020 22:16:10
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

Just a little update for today,

i glassed the balsa parts on the tail cone. Not for strenght or to have a more ''ding''proof surface but i don't like to put on the filler on bare balsa.20201025_214602.jpg

dirk tinck27/10/2020 22:55:34
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

With the epoxy dry , i covered the balsa parts with a layer of automotive filler . I did this with the rudders and tail cone in place so i could see how much filler was requiered. After a few sessions of filling and sanding i'm happy with the result and the cone is ready for primer and paint. After that , the moulding can start....againsad.

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Left is the plug and right is the new rudder : identical as it should be.

x

dirk tinck29/10/2020 22:30:11
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

Hi all !

Because this is a complicated form to mould ,the splitter boards require a little more attention than normal. For this reason i'm going to make them before painting the plug so i don't damage the paint while fitting.

I'm going to do the top mould first so i made these splitters first.The other side will be devided in two for easy de-moulding

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Tomorrow i will place the marbels for exact replacement of the moulds. The splitters will be held in place with foam blocks on the backside (after painting)

alan p29/10/2020 23:07:11
314 forum posts
25 photos

Definitely a Masterclass in aero modellingyes

dirk tinck01/11/2020 22:37:44
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

Hi all !

The tail cone plug is now sanded and primered and i suddenly realized ,this is the moment to bring on the panel lines !! Almost forgot embarrassed.

As this is a round shape , i'm having problems to use the usual tool for this task (dremel and the custom made head ) idea I drew the lines with a permanent marker and used a metal sawblade to engrave a groove over the markings.Then i made them deeper with the edge of a halfround file and smoothend the bottom with sand paper folded over a little piece of metal sheet. It worked better than expected !!smile.

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I think i'm now ready to paint this plug. The paint will ''fill''the lines a bit but i count on that as they are rather deep for this scale. When painting the actual serving parts , the lines will be filled again for a bit.

As we are in lockdown AGAINsad ,i don't now what it's going to do with my spare time and the progress on this project ??question

Time will tell i guess ...Thanks for watching and stay safe !!fist

dirk tinck03/11/2020 23:04:17
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711 forum posts
1053 photos

Good day all ,

I painted the cone plug with automotive paint yesterday and i must have been a little too generously because i flooded the panel lines embarrassed. Just a minor setback as i had to sand it all over again and clean out the lines...

This mistake made the lines much smoother so not all was a waste.

I'm going to thin the paint and be more carefull spraying it , or use a spray can wich gives a much thinner layer of paint. Another lesson learned !

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