|Tony Kenny||29/09/2018 07:37:12|
282 forum posts
I'm sharing this photo of my pride & joy after the battery was ejected whilst pulling out of an outside loop after performing various other high-G manoeuvres. Turns out velcro is quite reliable, but, the self adhesive backing is really weak! Battery came out leaving me with no control!
Future plan: 1) more secure battery mounting, 2) a small lipo backup for rx & control so I'll at least have control if this happens again.
I'm also considering some sort of latch on the battery connector so the weight of the battery cannot pull it out.
|Chris Walby||29/09/2018 08:18:05|
1241 forum posts
Tony, commiserations for your loss and yes you are spot on when it comes to checking the Velcro baseplate is fully attached especially after lots of flights. While fitting a battery on my Carbon Yak I noticed the end of the tray lift a bit. Further investigation and it came out with little difficulty (originally glued in with silicone sealer).
IMHO I would change battery fixing system/prevent the Velcro detaching and leave it at that.
UBEC and lipo add complexity and weight and one day you might want to disconnect the lipo very quickly without undoing the locking system.
PS My Wots wot tray fell out (yes there are people that have never had this issue, but when its does) and before I landed the lipo disconnected from the EC5 connector, the massive change in C of G would have probably made it un-flyable anyway.
|Peter Miller||29/09/2018 09:03:34|
11094 forum posts
I always stick my non self adhesive Velcro down with epoxy. Had too many self adhesive Velcro come adrift.
I lost my Super 60 when the battery came out in aerobatics. This time the whole mount came loose after a rought field take off. Well, there isn't much structure to stick the mount to.
|Ben B||29/09/2018 09:04:09|
1427 forum posts
|Not sure if this is the problem but self adhesive Velcro is really bad at sticking to foam. A really effective trick is to glue a thin ply / balsa plate onto the foam then attach the Velcro onto that. The velcro will hold onto the wood much better. An alternative is to smear the foam with epoxy- again the Velcro will bond much better.|
|Tony Kenny||29/09/2018 09:10:15|
282 forum posts
Some good advice thank you.
Ben, I agree, it's not great on foam at all. My plan is to do the same as I did on the glider which was to use the double sided velcro that sticks to itself and glue that to the fuz so it's nice and secure. For this model I'll probably do that in 3 places and also consider adding an additional 'gate' by way of a piece of balsa under a couple of clips to just slot in place.
I am a bit surprised that ARTF models don't tend to have any form of battery mount whatsoever and even those that do tend to be inadequate. The canopy of this one also had such weak magnets that it fell off the first time I flew inverted, which prompted me to add velco to that too.
We live and learn, but it will be a while before I get time to fix this.
1930 forum posts
Evostik Impact contact adhesive
Ps test foam first or use Por Uhu
Edited By trebor on 29/09/2018 09:43:15
|Capt Kremen||29/09/2018 10:20:26|
361 forum posts
Commiserations and sympathies Tony.
My MaxThrust 'Ruckus', (recently reviewed here too!), has suffered a not dissimilar fate.
The LiPo secured with two(2) strong velcro straps around the pack passing thru the fuselage so no sticky to come unstuck. Then the magnetic top canopy/hatch, lip engaged on the front so slipstream forces it down and can't get under to blow off - hmmm or so I thought!!!
I'd been successfully flying the aircraft for numerous flights, including the usual sports aerobatics of loops, rolls, stall-turns, inverted etc. all with the battery securing arrangement and position as described above, no issues. After the usual pre-flight safety checks including pulling both velcro straps tight around the Lipo, taxied out to the runway.
After a steady, straight ahead take-off, a very gentle bank to the left, away from the flight line, (of course!), was commenced. Hardly established in the turn, canopy/hatch flew off and the LiPo ejected itself. With no power, the airframe spun in, exit one aircraft as a write-off!
Moral of this tale - Don't totally rely on velcro or magnetic hatches, even in very gentle, non-aerobatic flight.
|Tony Kenny||29/09/2018 10:34:29|
282 forum posts
Yep, we've become too reliant on convenience and these easy answers are just too tempting! I'm annoyed with myself because I was concerned that the battery wasn't properly secure but it had been OK in all flights for the past year so didn't so anything. That was my mistake, I should have gone with my gut and done something, especially knowing that each time I remove the battery I'm pulling on that velcro and the weak adhesive beneath it!
I'll submit this photo to RCME too, maybe somebody else can learn from my mistakes.
To make matter worse, i also ripped the motor mount out of my FW190. The u/c got damaged and other club members suggest just hand launching and belly landing and the prop would knock out of the way. Unfortunately, a couple of these landings knocked the prop but pull the motor mount out. Thankfully, that's an easy fix, but I wonder what damage these landings will eventually do to the motor shaft. I've bent enough on other model already. The moral again, fix the thing properly!
1930 forum posts
Capt, would you say the Ruckas would have been a keeper ? I keep looking at it and my pockets are burning !
|Ron Gray||29/09/2018 11:06:04|
|2176 forum posts|
UHU Por is excellent at providing a really strong adhesion between Velcro and the surface it’s applied to, but it must be applied as per the instructions, in other words, coat both surfaces, let it go touch dry and then stick together. I have found that the longer it is left before sticking together the better, I once forgot about one until the next day, then stuck them together, no problem and one of the strongest joints I’ve made with it!
|706 forum posts|
My rule is over 1000 3s use straps to secure and vecro to stop the lipo moving .!
I have actually had 1000 3s break through the bottom of the fuz due to excess very high G aerobatics as well as frequently loosing rudders when pulling out of "Blenders" !!! (same plane )!
|Trevor Crook||29/09/2018 11:51:43|
|967 forum posts|
Another vote for velcro straps. Never had a problem with them, and it's easier to peel a strap apart than it is to lever out a "velcroed" battery, which of course stresses the adhesive each time.
|Capt Kremen||29/09/2018 12:37:02|
361 forum posts
To reply to Trebor - Mmmm ... it was OK but, IMHO, had lots of imperfections, as said 'down to an (expensive) price, not necessarily up to TOP quality'. If purchasing again, would get basic airframe, no motor, servos or linkages and improve U/C, axles, wheels, LiPo & canopy retention AND add a missing pilot in that canopy!.
|Don Fry||29/09/2018 13:24:57|
4557 forum posts
Sympathy, but unless the ejected flight battery was on the centre of gravity, when it went a battery supply to the receiver won't have saved tou. The trim shift will be severe, and or it will still be uncontrable. Don't trust glue, it always comes off.
1901 forum posts
A blind (pop) rivet or two will hold Velcro to a ply plate (add in a washer for additional support if you feel the rivet might pull through) Glues can fail in a couple of ways.Especially if they get hot. Even sunlight can do it particularly if repeated as in a shed in strong sunlight. Exposure to heat from radiators/convector heaters etc. Contact cement glues/cement can go powdery or if exposed to fuel goes soft and gooey. Any solvent based glue can be subject to this. Por types go glass like and brittle and shatter with a sharp knock or vibration. So if your model is old check all joints carefully.Even Velcro's adhesive can and will dry and go powdery (OR GOOEY) sooner or later
|RC Plane Flyer||29/09/2018 15:09:04|
|733 forum posts|
Hi all. I find that Velcro branded name own self adhesive 2" wide from Amazon sticks like ????? and difficult to remove when needed to
|Shaun Walsh||29/09/2018 16:39:57|
|318 forum posts|
There's a mod for the Ruckus on the Century UK web site
Looks like canopy ejection may be not uncommon, perhaps if you contact Century you might get a discount on a replacement.
Edited By Shaun Walsh on 29/09/2018 16:40:34
Edited By Shaun Walsh on 29/09/2018 16:45:40
|Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator||30/09/2018 08:59:19|
15748 forum posts
|I only use straps now, anchored to something I put in with hard backstop etc., which in turn is securely attached to the main structure. So unless we get catastrophic structural failure, in which case it's all over anyway, that battery ain't going anywhere.|
|Engine Doctor||30/09/2018 09:54:05|
2511 forum posts
+ for Straps passing around or through fuselage .
|Peter Miller||30/09/2018 14:35:04|
11094 forum posts
Just something to consider.
I have an Eagle Tree G meter.
I did a test with an i.c. model, a long full power vertical dive and maximum up elevator pull out.
The recorded G was 24.8g. which meant that the model weighed about 95 lbs at pull out
Oh yes, the model was fine afterwards.
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