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Masher31/10/2018 19:14:37
1106 forum posts
79 photos

Prompted by the latest magazine article & plan, I have started to build the Mike Birch Moonglow VI. The mag build shows quite significant dihedral yet the original plan and articles (available on outerzone) doesn't mention it. Can anyone advise if there was any dihedral on original models?

Thanks, Martin

Martin Dance 131/10/2018 19:29:51
205 forum posts
33 photos

A fellow club member had one for many years, probably built from the original plan. I recall the model had som dihedral, possibly 2-3 degrees.

Kevin Mander 131/10/2018 21:14:00
15 forum posts
4 photos

img_0599.jpgHi Masher, Just built one, got the plan and laser cut parts from Belair in the UK, (i am in Australia) dihedral is 2 inch under each tip as shown on the Belair plan, great service and quality laser cut parts by the way, here is mine, electric power, flies great. cheers, Kev.img_0598.jpg

Masher31/10/2018 21:36:00
1106 forum posts
79 photos

Thanks Martin & Kev for the replies. Nice looking model! I considered the Belair kit but decided to cut my own as there aren't that many bits requiring CNC.

Eddie Clanzy-Hodge14/11/2018 17:29:53
11 forum posts

I built mine from the outerzone plans early this year. It has 2" dihedral under ONE wingtip with the other panel flat on the board. The rudder response is neutral with this dihedral and that is what is needed for a competition pattern ship. Other things to do are 1) Get the COG at the rearwards point shown on the plan with either an empty fuel tank or with batteries etc. if electric. An electric conversion is tricky since the nose is relatively short for the lighter electric motors..2) If running off grass increase length of nose leg (1/2" to 1" or so) so that you have some positive wing incidence on the ground. It will then take off on its own as you build up speed. Zero incidence on the ground is OK for tarmac because you can do a smooth take off run. On grass it gets a bit bumpy and it is tricky to do a proper competition style smooth take off. 3) Keep the weight down. An electric conversion is likely to come out heavier than specified on the plan/article. They say to keep it below 6lbs but mine came out at 6lbs 5ozs RTF as an electric conversion. 4) Thrust lines. On the plan it shows zero down and zero right. I changed this to 1 degree down and 2 degrees right. Again, this is how my F3A pattern ships were set up in the past and it has resulted in clean vertical climbs and no changes to attitude under different power settings.
My Moonglow flies very similar to my F3A competition models from the late 1990s when set up this way. That shows what a good design it was in the late 1960s. The only real difference is that, with the rearward COG, it flick rolls so quickly that it is tricky to do just the one controlled flick. The axial rolls are not quite as axial, possibly due to the outboard ailerons.


Eddie Clanzy-Hodge14/11/2018 17:35:43
11 forum posts

Sorry - forgot to add this.

Make sure you put a canopy on it as per the plan. This gives more side area and it helps with rolls and knife edge.


Masher14/11/2018 17:52:50
1106 forum posts
79 photos

Thank you Eddie, some useful information. 2" total sounds much more reasonable

Phil Horne21/11/2018 14:25:07
9 forum posts
9 photos

i've just got my Belair kit for the Moonglow. I remember it being in Radio Modeller mag when I was a lad! I'm going to put electric power in it rather than ic and would be interested to hear how you guys have converted yours to electric. Phil.

Martyn K21/11/2018 15:15:37
5041 forum posts
3677 photos

I have been advised (by Shelly on FB), that 1" dihedral under one wing tip (other side flat) is  about right. She has made 2 moonglows. 2" under each tip is way too much



Edited By Martyn K on 21/11/2018 15:16:23

Gary Vinten 121/11/2018 18:46:41
523 forum posts
326 photos
1 articles

I think I will go with no dihedral what do ya thinksad

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