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World Models Pilatus Porter P6

ARTF or Kit

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Stearman6512/01/2019 18:13:19
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Hi Martian

It would mean cutting the tabs off the ribs & adding extra sheet with joints that would probably show. I checked the larger version WM do & that has almost fully sheeted wing, but the kit is OOS, which probably means it won't be available in the future. I did add my email to the notify me when back in stock box, but that was just wishful thinking unless I come up on the Premium Bonds.wink

**LINK**

Edited By Stearman65 on 12/01/2019 18:15:36

Stearman6513/01/2019 16:40:51
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Following a reasonable nights sleep, I removed the plan from the board, reversed & taped it to the lounge window & drew on the leading & trailing edges & the ribs.

After pinning it down & covering with florists film, I pinned down the main spar with the bottom main spar ready glued on. Then glued on the tip & root ribs, & dry fitted the rest of the ribs. Glued on the top main spar & ribs, the aileron opening leading edge & the rear sheet strip. then finally the leading edge. To finish I dry fitted the fiberglass tubes.

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Stearman6514/01/2019 15:39:41
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746 forum posts
887 photos

I won't blether on repeating what I said about the first wing half, I've taken pictures from different angles & the text is on the pictures. That's it for today.

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Stearman6515/01/2019 15:56:30
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Added some more sheets to the wing & did some sanding. Just 1 more sheet to fit & build the aileron then I can plan how to add flaps.

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Martian15/01/2019 16:47:00
2082 forum posts
1023 photos

coming along really well ,like you I don't see why the wing is not fully sheeted

Stearman6516/01/2019 15:59:36
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Postman delivered my order for snap on ball links & pinned hinges. Tried them, both very stiff, may go elsewhere. The hinges are for the flaps, may try the small Kavan, was happy with the large ones I bought for the Stinson. The ball links are a deviation from the plan to attach the wing struts quickly, which I don't think are functional.

Added the remaining piece of sheet to the underside of the wing & the servo cut out. Added the trailing edge strip & built up the aileron, finally fitted the aileron horn mounting block. May leave cutting out the proposed flaps until I've got some hinges I'm happy with.

Maybe tailplane & fin tomorrow.

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Stearman6518/01/2019 06:42:44
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Didn't get much done yesterday with one thing & another. The prop & wheels ordered from Al's finally arrived, it is supposed to be ready balanced, however the edges are like razors, so that will have to be attended to then re-balanced. Tried it on the replacement spinner, & it looks the business. Lastly added the 2 end plates to the left aileron. Haven't ordered the flap hinges yet, so won't be creating them until they do. Finally, ordered the Krick Klemm 25L kit from Leeds model shop, supposed to be arriving today. Maybe more later.

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Stearman6518/01/2019 11:48:14
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Set aside the wings & ailerons, cleared the board & pinned down the tailplane elevator fin & rudder plans & covered with florists film. Didn't really need them, it's so easy to assemble the parts. Took longer to do taht & unpack the parts than to glue them together. Just the tailplane end plates to fit when the glue dries.

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Stearman6518/01/2019 16:03:05
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Removed the tail parts from the board after they had dried. Added the two ply end fairings to the tailplane. That's probably it until Monday.

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Stearman6520/01/2019 15:45:04
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Didn't get much done yesterday, had friends round for dinner so had to help. I did get a bit done though, cleared the tail off the board, unpacked & separated the the ply & balsa parts from the sheets, must get a chisel blade for the knife next time I do this. Finally after re-reading the comic, realised the numbering of the parts was not sequential with the build sequence, wrote all the numbers down in the order they were needed then called it a draw.

This morning, I segregated the parts into sequential piles to make things easier, then made a start assembling the fuselage. Certainly isn't as simple as it looks on the Youtube videos, then again I like a challenge. Used a combination of cyano & aliphatic glue. Found one of the struts pre glued to the fuselage side, short & wouldn't engage with the cut out of the former. Using aliphatic makes things more difficult as you have to pre glue most components, however, I'm happier that way. I'm making dinner tonight so that's it for today. Incidentally, the Ka8B sold on Ebay, but I'm having problems with the buyer, more later.

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Edited By Stearman65 on 20/01/2019 15:47:00

Stearman6521/01/2019 18:07:49
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Hospital appointment cut today's build short today. My intention to use aliphaiic glue where possible was thwarted by the egg crate constrution method, so the best way to proceed was to use super glue where necessary & aliphatic as a back up where possible. I had to use all the spring clamps I have together with the ratchet clamps. I must say the spring clamps I bought from Ebay are totally rubbish, the clip in jaws fly off at the slightest provocation. Anyone know a supplier of decent items?

 

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Edited By Stearman65 on 21/01/2019 18:09:02

BackinBlack21/01/2019 18:30:17
79 forum posts
1 photos

I gave up on cheap clamps, as you have found they fly apart. I now use those from Wilkinson hardware stores, they come in 3 sizes and work well.

Old fashioned "Bulldog" and spring type paper clips are also very useful, almost too many sizes to choose from.

Ian

Edited By BackinBlack on 21/01/2019 18:33:03

Stearman6521/01/2019 20:23:30
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Thanks Ian, I'll take a look.

Regs Ericyes

Stearman6522/01/2019 12:18:10
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Before going to bed last night, I took the clamps off the glued section & tried F1 the motor bulkhead for fit, disaster, I should have continued with the sequence which was F2 & 15. The extra distance I had to bend the sides to trial fit F1 caused the left side to crack. (see pictures). Went to bed troubled.

This morning after a quick assessment, I attempted to glue in F2 which is a thin ply former to hold the battery tray. After coating in aliphatic & using a combination of spring & sliding clamps, I managed to get it somewhere near correct. However on checking the underside, it hadn't locked into place. Panic panic. I dug out the two tool boxes where my little used tools are kept & found 2 x 4 inch G clamps. What would have done the trick better would have been an 8inch G clamp, but couldn't find one. I fitted the G clamps which bent F2, so I added some scrap 1/8th ply on edge & spring clamps to take out the bend while the glue dries. That has put paid to any more work today. BTW it's just started snowing.

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Stearman6523/01/2019 14:22:27
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Took the clamps off this morning, didn't look too bad apart from the damaged balsa side skin.. Tried F1, but the tongues were too tight, so used a needle file to open them up. When I was able to join both sides, I prepared some clamps & scrap wood & mixed a batch of 20 minute epoxy. I decided to do the good side first so I wouldn't stress the cracked side.. Before tackling the other side, I opened the cracks & squeezed in super glue. When the epoxy was set, I released the clamps & transferred them to the bad side, tightened them enough to start the tongues in the holes, mixed another batch of epoxy, lathered it onto the tongues & mating surfaces, then tightened the clamps. Managed to get epoxy drips on the comic*** That's it for today.

 

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Edited By Stearman65 on 23/01/2019 14:23:23

Edited By Stearman65 on 23/01/2019 14:24:54

Stearman6524/01/2019 17:54:27
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Didn't get much done today with one thing & another. What I did do was remove the clamps from the joint in the firewall I'd left overnight. Looks like a good bond, only snag the tongues from the firewall are proud of the fuselage sides & soaked in epoxy which may make it difficult to grind flush. Added the servo tray which was a pig & should have been done earlier in the build than what the comic says. Finally I added the 1/8th ? square balsa strut to the underside & tried the balsa bottom skin. That didn't fit correctly with a gap on the L/H side. On investigation, I found one of the former tongues had not entered its cut out correctly. As the cut out was full of glue, I cut off the tongue & loosened the joint between the fuselage stringer, added some aliphatic & clamped it into shape. The bottom skin now fits, but I'll glue it in place tomorrow after making sure there are no more dry joints as they won't be accessible with the skin on.

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Stearman6525/01/2019 15:44:08
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Woke extremely early this morning, so after lots of other items, by the time I got around to the Pilatus, I was knackered.

The problem with the cracked fuselage side rose up & bit me when I fitted the next few components. The bottom sheet wouldn't fit because I had fitted one of the U/C blocks the wrong way round, one side has a step to take the balsa bottom. I also found another couple of tongues not engaged fully so I had to compensate. Then to cap it all as I was adding aliphatic to one of the minuscule balsa reinforcements it flirted out of my hand, I know not where, so I made another out of scrap ply. I now had to glue in 2 pieces of 3/16? balsa about 1/2" long named F33, what the comic says doesn't match the numbered parts, so I've called it a draw for today, hope I don't wake screaming about F33!

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Stearman6526/01/2019 14:09:22
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Got up early to catch the best of the M&S £12 meal deal, also called in Wilco to collect the clamps I'd ordered & the £ shop for some super glue.

F33 still remained a mystery, so I blew up the PDF on the PC & re-read the comic. Still a mystery. Unfastened all the clamps that had been on over night. As F33 was in doubt I skipped it & went onto the wing tubes & braces, then fitting the bottom sheet. The comic says glue the stringer to the bottom sheet, which means you can't glue the former tops with the sheet in place. Also the comic says the stringer is F18, it's stamped F19. So while I was pondering I glued the curved sheet over the dash board & hatch back former. Then I put the bottom sheet in place, it fitted where it touched as we say in the North. So clamping into position as I went, I used the new super glue to fix it in place. There are a few gaps that will have to be filled. I removed the clamp from the curved sheet & discovered where F33 goesblush. I managed with the aid of a pin to install them & called it a draw for the day.

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Stearman6527/01/2019 17:09:06
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746 forum posts
887 photos

Well it wasn't quite it, went to close the curtains & couldn't resist, gluing the tail block in place. This morning it was time to construct the battery cover. For some reason it's constructed of formers & stringers, might modify that as the original has a metal skin over that bit. Probably sand it down & add a 1mm ply skin. Maybe it's like that to try to lighten the front end as the nose is quite long? Used cyano initially as it isn't a stressed area, but had to resort to aliphatic to ensure the cyano didn't run into the hatch latch. Last bit I did was to fit the hatch latch plate & taped it down to set overnight. I have two rectangles of reinforced balsa left over. I've scoured the comic but can't find any reference, so I'll email World Models to see if they can shed any light.

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Denis Watkins27/01/2019 17:39:08
3460 forum posts
161 photos

May be Doublers

Or Alternates

Are the ply strips bonded to them?

Looks Undercarriage or battery bay

Edited By Denis Watkins on 27/01/2019 17:45:39

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