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Chilli Wind Built - up wing.

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alex nicol11/01/2019 14:58:07
267 forum posts
13 photos

From memory they're Turngy from HK........they weren't that expensive

Adrian Smith 111/01/2019 15:38:43
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

Nice job Alex. yes

Martyn K12/01/2019 11:52:13
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4857 forum posts
3538 photos

That looks great. Its a superb introductory model for Classic Aerobatics. Kept light, it would be fine with an SC46 or similar without a pipe although the SC46 does take a pipe very well.

Martyn

Nigel R12/01/2019 13:08:39
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2934 forum posts
470 photos

It does look good.

I'd say it is one the best thought through designs I've seen. Flight performance is as good as any classic aerobat from the 90s. The airframe structure has also been carefully thought out to minimise build time, complexity and cost. No expensive glass bits needed, no difficult fairings to hide pipes, no canopy section to deal with, etc. Shaping work is kept to a minimum.

All in, it was a brilliant package.

I've still got a piped 60 size one on my bucket list of projects.

Edited By Nigel R on 12/01/2019 13:09:13

kc12/01/2019 19:07:33
5929 forum posts
168 photos

The 57 inch Chilli Wind wing that I have is foam and veneer weighing 1.2 pounds complete after tissue dope, paint and fuel proofer. So don't discount a foam wing on weight grounds.

alex nicol12/01/2019 19:20:34
267 forum posts
13 photos

I hadn't discounted a foam wing, I just didn't have a means of making one and when I looked at the cost it was quicker and cheaper for me to build one.

Since then I've had a bit of a dabble with foam cutting and if this project lives up to its reputation I've got an ASP 1.80 fs looking for a home and I'm toying with doing a scaled up version for it. I'm thinking of scaling it up by about 1.4 which should take me to about 80" span.

kc12/01/2019 19:29:11
5929 forum posts
168 photos

Alex, how did you do the wing joiner in your built up wing?

Actually I prefer built up wings but if it involves fibreglass bandage or even PVA + bandage it is less worthwhile - might as well use foam.

alex nicol12/01/2019 20:01:34
267 forum posts
13 photos

I used 1/4 birch ply full depth brace on the main spar. as the main spar is swept back the brace is 1/4 thick at the root and feathered down to nil at the edges to match the Spar sweep back.

I intend to use fibre glass joiner. What a usually do is warm the resin and hardener in the microwave for about 15secs to make it really thin. When I apply the cloth and epoxy to the joint I cover it with some thick polythene and then squeegee all the excess epoxy out to the edges and remove it. This gives me a really light joint and doesn't sacrifice any strength. Leave it 24 hours and peel the polythene off and you get a finish like glass that needs no sanding.

Stuart Quinn-Harvie 114/01/2019 21:32:00
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108 forum posts
81 photos

Thanks folks - loads of good info. And some superb work, Alex I had a change of mind, and decided to go small and build the Chilli Breeze, so ordered the issue in KC's link. NO PLAN! or any related content - it was all gone. so I might be doing the full wind ( ooer ) after all.

alex nicol14/01/2019 23:49:43
267 forum posts
13 photos

Hi Stuart,

The chilli wind plan and magazine article can be downloaded from Outerzone.co.uk alternately you can order plans for both chilli breeze and chilli wind from Sarikhobbies.com

I went for the Wind as I had an Irvine 53 looking for a home

Good luck with whatever you decide on

Stuart Quinn-Harvie 115/01/2019 00:05:29
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108 forum posts
81 photos

Hey Alex, I have the plan and article for the Wind - I was thinking if I built the breeze I could do a better and more economical job of converting it to electric. ( I am starting up again after a break so have less gear lying around than I used to but DO have some 3 and 4 s packs and a couple of 40a speed controllers) ) I will order the Breeze plan from Sarik if I can't find a copy of the mag with the plan and article in though. fFankly I vacilate so much I suspect my build will only be truly decided when I start to cut some parts out. Once that happens, I will be off though

Thanks for the good wishes, and I will do a build diary when I get started - on one or the other Again, superb work on yours - really looking forward to seeing more of it when done.

will -015/01/2019 09:10:25
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553 forum posts
19 photos

Looking good!

I have the chilli breeze which I built from the 1994 free plan a few years back. Flys very well, but it's a small thing and goes quite fast. I very very nearly lost it last summer as I looked away for a fraction of a second and could not find it in the sky after.

Mine is asp32 powered.

Nigel R15/01/2019 10:44:46
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2934 forum posts
470 photos

I had an Irvine 36 in the Breeze ages ago. Flew the pants off it for a couple of years. Great combo. Was about 3-3/4lb dry. You could build an electric version to around 3-1/2lb, including lipo, quite easily I reckon. 450W would be about right.

My current Chilli Wind is electric. Has somewhere between 750W - 800W. Weighs 4-3/4lbs with lipo. Performance is excellent, endless vertical and great manners at low speed.

Piers Bowlan16/01/2019 01:34:41
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1804 forum posts
44 photos

Nigel, what motor and LiPo are you using in your Chilli Wind?

Nigel R16/01/2019 09:24:00
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2934 forum posts
470 photos

Piers,

The lipo is 4S 5000mAh, but only a 20C variant. The motor is an Overlander 3548 - 900kv, which is no different to the Turnigy stuff I believe. Prop is an APC 11x8, gives a good turn of speed with the taps open, it is a good match to the airframe.

This setup draws about 50A at full throttle on the ground.

Piers Bowlan16/01/2019 10:57:34
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1804 forum posts
44 photos

Thank you Nigel, a very comprehensive answer. I already have a Turnigy 3548-840kv for 4s but I was considering using my Turnigy Propdrive 4250-500v for 6s as I have a few 6s LiPos. Judging by what you say in your post 6s may be over the top for this model - unless it was enlarged a tad. devil.

I am also looking at Peter Millers 'Little Miss Honky Tonk' in this months RCM&E as an electric conversion. In any event I must finish my Holi build before I get carried away with a new project. angel

Well done with maidening your Aerobat by the way, lets hope we get lots of great weather so that you can enjoy it.

Nigel R16/01/2019 21:45:14
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2934 forum posts
470 photos
Thanks Piers I'm going tomorrow will be nice weather for a second go, I've balanced the prop and fitted the hatch and cowl in anticipation!

The Holi is a nice looking model. Get it finished! The late Derek Woodward had quite a knack for turning out pretty sport models. I've looked at his Bubbles a few times as well as Little Special.

The larger motor you have sounds asyou say like it might suit a slight enlargement. I guess it is a 50 or 60 class motor on 6s?
Stuart Quinn-Harvie 117/01/2019 13:05:18
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108 forum posts
81 photos

Right, decision made, Chilli BREEZE plan ordered, and off to Steve Webb's tomorrow to stock up on balsa and some other bits.

I am going to convert it to electric so will be thinking about that while I build the airframe.

Thanks for all the advice and help folks.

Piers Bowlan17/01/2019 13:33:00
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1804 forum posts
44 photos

Stuart, no doubt you have found the Chilli Breeze Electric thread but if not here is the link.

If you are looking for a suitable motor for the Chilli Breeze something like this might be suitable for 4S which I guess would make it fairly ballistic. If you are planning on a 3S setup then a similar motor with a 1000kv appx. would seem appropriate.  I am sure Steve Webb has something similar.

Just my 2p worth.

Edited By Piers Bowlan on 17/01/2019 13:47:35

Nigel R17/01/2019 15:13:43
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2934 forum posts
470 photos

It's worth planning on moving the FW forward an inch or thereabouts, and extending the sides, in order to mount the motor in the right place.

As it's a long nose, a 3548 might be a bit heavy. I had to get the lipo quite a long way back to balance mine, which is the big one, with a 3548... A slightly lighter motor, the 3542 size, might be about right on the small one? I would personally choose a slightly smaller/faster prop for something like this, the 3542/1000kv on 4S with a 9x6 - would put you around 35A - close enough to start with? You could go to 10x4 if that was too quick at full throttle or didn't have the vertical pull. YMMV - this is just what I'd start on.

A front underside hatch works really well for lipo access on this one, as that's a flat bit of wood. The top is more awkward to cut into.

Mine has the ESC tucked above the lipo. The lipo is strapped to a ply plate (about an inch wide, running fore and aft) which is fixed about an inch away from the top deck. ESC can be passed in around the side of the plate in to the space above it. The cooling hole through the FW is next to the ESC.

The cowl on mine is permanent. Motor is fixed in place using a long screwdriver! Works fine in practice. The large spinner covers the motor access hole. That may not be so true on the smaller one.

 

Edited By Nigel R on 17/01/2019 15:15:29

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