|Phil Horne||08/02/2019 15:20:07|
9 forum posts
i have the Moonglow plan but it only shows one wing panel. How can I get a reversed image of the plan to build the starboard wing. Is there a way of treating the paper so I can see through from the other side, therefore getting a mirror image?
|346 forum posts|
If you rub the back of the plan with light oil (3in1) or paraffin it will be transluscent for quite a long period but if you can build quickly then cellulose thinners will be OK for a couple of days. If you don't like those ideas then tape it to a window and trace the key details onto the back. Thirdly take it to a print shop and get them to print a reverse image.
4193 forum posts
A few drops of oil spread on the plan will make it semi transparent. Linseed oil or cooking oil are favourite.
|Gordon Whitehead 1||08/02/2019 15:33:14|
312 forum posts
It used to be said that rubbing the plan with paraffin will make it transluscent so that you can build on the back. Otherwise, it's not really too hard to trace the plan onto greaseproof paper and build on that, taking care to build the opposite wing of course. I've used the latter method a few times, but not the paraffin one.
|Robert Welford||08/02/2019 15:46:45|
|160 forum posts|
Use carbon paper under plan and trace through - gives mirror image on reverse side!
|Engine Doctor||08/02/2019 16:08:32|
2271 forum posts
I recently showed some carbon paper to a club member and they were amazed as they had never seen anything like it .
|5962 forum posts|
Actually all you really need for wing building is just the lines for the spars and LE & TE and lines for the ribs. No real detail is required so just trace those lines or draw on plain paper or the building board.
|Phil Horne||08/02/2019 17:30:52|
9 forum posts
Thank you all for the advice, I’ll try the oil trick once I’ve built the first half 😊
880 forum posts
|Robert Parker||08/02/2019 17:53:28|
889 forum posts
I use baby oil lasts for quite a while and not so smelly, my workshop is in the house.
with the baby oil the paper becomes transparent and it is good for your hands too
|Andy Sephton 1||08/02/2019 18:07:02|
149 forum posts
If you use oil, don't forget to protect your building board and the model with some cling film or similar. I've used cooking oil in the past, when there was nothing else to hand, but on my latest model I'm using WD-40 - it's easy to spray on!
see pic number 5 in post number 6 in the following thread: https://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=140631
|Peter Miller||08/02/2019 18:14:00|
10076 forum posts
Parafin is best as the plan goes back to normal.
The other way is to take it to aprint shop and ask for a mirror image. No mess, no smell.
|Martin Harris||08/02/2019 18:51:33|
8740 forum posts
Yes, I was quite amazed when I used the paraffin method as recommended in the instructions on my Airsail Chipmunk plan - I couldn't see any sign that it had been used when the plan dried out after I removed it from my building board.
|Piers Bowlan||08/02/2019 19:27:03|
1826 forum posts
I can't believe what people are suggesting; paraffin, carbon paper, tracing paper, baby oil! Surely, as we live in the digital age, it easier to google 'commercial printers' (at least one in every town) and have a mirror image copy done of the wing. It will cost £2.50 tops. While you are at it attach a copy of the rear fuselage to the front and get them to do a copy of the complete fuselage. That way you will keep the originals pristine so that you can refer to it as the need arrises. It is what I have done with Peter's 'Little Miss Honky Tonk' plan, at any rate.
|Martin Harris||08/02/2019 19:47:14|
8740 forum posts
You need to check that there is no distortion if you do this - I was caught out by a copy I had done by a commercial print shop which was significantly different to the original.
|Geoff Sleath||08/02/2019 20:23:47|
3300 forum posts
Quite. It might be better to get copies for both wings then they're more likely to be the same but check.
When we used to get prints done at work from microfilm on one of those smelly printers the message on all of then carried the message 'Do Not Scale'. It didn't matter to me because all my drawings were circuit diagrams but for mechanical drawings it meant read the dimensions marked rather than measure them with a scale because the paper isn't dimensionally stable in temperature or humidity.
Of course we aeromodellers have drawing with few marked dimensions and so use the drawings as jigs.
I don't always bother using the drawing for wings. I just draw a line and mark off the rib positions then use the actual drawing for reference for both wings but use my line for building on.
|Nigel R||08/02/2019 20:37:55|
2985 forum posts
Squirt of WD40 costs pennies!
Anyway, surely on this forum we likes ye olde ways?
|Jonathan M||08/02/2019 21:01:52|
669 forum posts
The mess-free method...
During daylight, tape to a large window and trace in pencil onto the back.
Use a 0.5mm propelling-pencil to mark accurately the outlines and at the junctions of each component, then you can use a normal pencil to roughly sketch in the rest so it all makes quick visual sense.
|stu knowles||08/02/2019 21:04:00|
|564 forum posts|
Having once built from a plan which had both wings drawn - but which were slightly different sizes, I would advise always building the second wing from the reverse of the drawing used for the first wing.
|Ray Wood 4||08/02/2019 21:10:13|
66 forum posts
Dennis Bryant recommended taping the drawing to a window on a bright day and tracing the wing onto the back of the drawing, a sort of diy light box 😀
Edited By Ray Wood 4 on 08/02/2019 21:10:51
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!