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2019 Mass Build

General mass build discussion thread.

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RCM&E FLY-IN 2019

RCM&E FLY-IN 2019

Pop 13th 15th Sept in your diary!

Low pass Pete27/03/2019 06:30:04
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206 forum posts
118 photos

General points on the wing build.

The plan is not specific on some points. Looking at the instructions and photos it seems that the original build did not have webs between the upper and lower spars.

I personally intend to fit webs. I think this will add strength for a very small amount of extra weight. The plan does not say what thickness sheeting should be. I will use 1/16 as all my other builds.

Cheers

Peter

Low pass Pete27/03/2019 06:34:56
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206 forum posts
118 photos

General tip on build of tailplane

The plan only shows one half of the tailplane. I would suggest that the centre section is cut in one piece so to be as one piece and not 2. Also would suggest to make lower cross part as one piece as well

This will make the tailplane stronger.

Always plan to avoid a joint where possible as joins are a potential weakness.

Cheers

Peter

Edited By Low pass Pete on 27/03/2019 06:43:40

Chris Walby27/03/2019 06:57:49
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926 forum posts
222 photos

Hi,

Too late for me regarding the tail plane, I will just glue mine on to its seat. I agree regarding making the horizontal in one piece as it would be stronger and no heavier.

I am not intending to be hurling mine around so I don't think it will be that stressed (I have a Cougar 2000 and it has nothing like this amount of wood in its back end!).

Mine is electric so there is an opportunity to come out light (well on target) as opposed to a lump of lead to get C of G. Given the choice I prefer models with low wing loading for pottering about.

20190326_205044.jpg

I was advised to use 1/8 on the wings as it only adds a little weight over C of G and will help to get a nice rounded shape when sanded (for us newbies at sheeting).

tony oneill 127/03/2019 10:22:16
68 forum posts
49 photos

hi, i built both parts of the tailplane and added a packer between to widen them as i thought it was a bit short. then i built the elevator to suit the new dimension. it was about 10mm wider. on mine it just looked too close. it looks really strong and i too am just going to glue it to the seat. the drawing says build up around the fin with block so i am going to follow the suggestion of fitting a packer wrapped in tape between the blocks for easy removal after gluing. then i will shape the block and glue in the fin. i also noticed a mention of a small packing piece to build the end of the fuselage toward the bottom of the rudder to decrease the gap there.

regards

tony.

Chris Walby27/03/2019 21:59:30
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926 forum posts
222 photos

Question for the knowledgeable

For better or worse I built up the horizontal stabiliser in two parts and glued them together, now its possible to make the centre section and TE strip in single pieces (would have been helpful to have mentioned this in the build instructions or on the drawing, but hey oh).

Before I go to the aggravation of gluing it on to the fuselage I would like to know what the considered view is

Is there sufficient strength with it joined and glued to the fuselage/packing piece and encased with soft balsa?

A couple of photos showing the horizontal stabiliser and the top section of the fuselage

20190327_181300.jpg 20190327_181305.jpg

Martin Harris27/03/2019 22:38:50
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8539 forum posts
214 photos

I've just seen this thread - I posted about my concern about this area in your build thread, Chris. The trailing edge member is probably the most important and crosses the smallest part of the fuselage.

Could you inset a 4 inch 1/4" square (6mm if you prefer) spruce joiner epoxied across the joint in the trailing edge piece?

Edited By Martin Harris on 27/03/2019 22:40:56

Low pass Pete28/03/2019 07:21:49
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206 forum posts
118 photos

Chris

My advice would be do not chance it. The tailplane is about the most crucial part of the plane.

Martins advice is sound and what I would do if in the same situation. I probably would have a couple of 1/4 spruce joiners one at the rear and the second positioned to get max length.

If you did not use epoxy to join the tailplane initially I personally would be tempted to rebuild.

Hope this is helpful

Peter

Chris Walby28/03/2019 07:42:17
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926 forum posts
222 photos

Cheers,

Back to the building board, rather disappointing there were no words on the drawing or it showing the full tail plane especially as the is another model tail depicted on the same sheet.

Low pass Pete28/03/2019 07:49:48
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206 forum posts
118 photos

Good choice Chris. Plans are sometimes not as clear as they could be. The free plans sometimes are not very specific and some are better than others. Always think how to build strength and avoid joints. In time you get a feel for something not right. All part of the experience. Good luck and press on mate.

Peter

tony oneill 131/03/2019 18:49:47
68 forum posts
49 photos

Hi all, found these in morrisons today, stainless steel straws about 5mm in diameter. I thought these would be great for exhaust pipe mock ups or something. Four for £2.50.20190331_184105.jpg

Peter Mullan04/04/2019 19:12:44
7 forum posts
1 photos

Question: I am trying to build the wings. Fortunately I noticed, like everyone else, that there was something wrong with the centreline so that has saved one disaster.

However, my question relates to washout. From the buildlog, I took it that you set the wings up for washout (with the 6mm spacer) only when you begin sheeting. I have build the wing half (in the middle of this at the moment) flat on the board. When I start to add sheeting then I think I am to pack up the trailing edge of the wing half first.

Am I correct?

Also, do I sheet the wing as a whole or in halves?

Peter Mullan04/04/2019 22:59:14
7 forum posts
1 photos

Additional question: Can someone please post a photo of the wingtips looking from the wingtip along the wing. I'm not sure how or where on the rib the wingtip is attached so I need to see both from above and below.

Thanks

Chris Walby05/04/2019 06:20:39
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926 forum posts
222 photos

Peter, I am no expert but now have a couple of experiences with this build

Firstly yes build flat or with the washout block (don't think it makes a massive difference.

Secondly yes use the washout packing block when to sheet the wing.

Now here is my problem! I couldn't see how you can sheet the wings individually and then join them + the instructions say sheet the underside first! Tried that and its rather complicated.

So I have joined the wings together and will sheet the top with packing blocks under the wing tips + additional washout blocks and do it all in one go. Once dry I'll turn it over and sheet the underside hopefully without the dihedral or washout changing too much

Wing tips, I left the LE protruding and glued supplied wing tip (Don't try to use the existing stringers as the only introduce twist...trust me!). Then cut triangular blocks (or square and sand down!). There are some better photos than mine in the other posts so take a look until I get to the workshop and take a couple photos later.

20190326_205854.jpg

Low pass Pete05/04/2019 08:23:09
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206 forum posts
118 photos

General tip on wingtips

If you look at the plan where it shows the general view of rib construction side view. This shows a dotted line running from the trailing edge to the centre of the leading edge. This is the glue line for the tips. The pictures in the instructions also support this. Just add triangular supports from edge of tip to the spars (front and rear).

Hope this is helpful

Peter

Nigel R05/04/2019 08:27:20
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2849 forum posts
469 photos

"the instructions say sheet the underside first!"

It's a flat bottom section, and the second piece of sheet will lock the wing together; with a flat bottom you can keep the wing warp-free very easily by holding it against the board whilst pressing the sheeting on, or pin or weight it all down (whatever's your poison). The converse is not true.

Peter Mullan05/04/2019 08:27:26
7 forum posts
1 photos

Peter / Chris - thanks for your help. I think it is clear now.

Cheers!

Peter

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