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First petrol plane dl 50 field equipment

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flyeruk05/03/2019 19:04:23
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472 forum posts
58 photos

Im about to get my first petrol plane.I know what equipment i need for glow engines but was wondering what field eqipment people take when flying larger petrol planes?

The plane is a Wot4 xtreme.

 

Edited By flyeruk on 05/03/2019 19:04:42

flyeruk05/03/2019 20:37:31
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472 forum posts
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Just thought i would add,i do have a very experienced friend who will be assisting me until im familiar with this plane.

Percy Verance05/03/2019 20:38:21
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8109 forum posts
155 photos

I'd recommend a peg for your nose on the drive home after a flying session. When I dabbled into petrol, I found the stink simply overpowering in the confines of a car interior. In fact it made me feel sick after 10 minutes or so.

I'd look into Aspen fuel if the smell gets too much. Keep others well way from you in the pit area, particularly if they're smoking. A small car type fire extinquisher might be good. A good thick leather gauntlet for flicking the prop.

Geoff Sleath05/03/2019 20:40:08
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3272 forum posts
251 photos

Off hand I'd say a means of carrying fuel and filling the model's tank and a means of restraining the model when starting. You may need an electric starter but the one you use for glow will probably suffice. Some clubs (ours for example) insist on a fire extinguisher.

For fuel I use a standard 5 litre plastic petrol can and a hand cranked pump (with suitable fuel tube). I just have 2 tubes coming out the top of the model's tank that loop and exit at the bottom. I use one of them to connect to the fuel pump and the other as a breather. I connect the 2 pipes together to seal the tank for transport or storage.  Unlike Percy, I don't find much of a smell from the fuel with the tank sealed as I describe and my wife doesn't complain so the smell can't be that bad because she has a very sensitive nose.

So, depending to some extent on the model - not all that much. Obviously tools and transmitter are the same as you would have for a glow model - or electric for that matter.

Geoff

 

Edited By Geoff Sleath on 05/03/2019 20:43:26

Bruce Collinson05/03/2019 20:48:21
378 forum posts

A beefy starter. Gallon can of fuel, petrol compatible pump, Tygon plumbing. Spare towels or microfibre cloths for spills. Tachometer. Big beefy restraint. Elastoplasts. Spare sparkyplug and spanner. Lots of cable ties. Dedicated assistant.

A proper model stand helps a lot with big planes especially at this time of year.

Make really sure the ignition switch is wired and labelled correctly so there’s no doubt when it’s safe and when it’s live, for priming.

Noise meter. Petrols are loud.

Whatever tools you need to set the jets whilst retaining all 10 digits (see dedicated assistant, above). Which reminds me, I’m about to put new batteries in my little infrared thermometer, bought for fishing but really comforting when running in anything.

Based on a steep learning curve, hope it helps. When they’re set they start easily and are frugal, until then they’re bitchy.

Oh yes, borrow the wife’s car. Drain out meticulously, wrap the business end in a Radley handbag outer bag to reduce the fume smell.

BTC

stu knowles05/03/2019 20:59:04
560 forum posts
44 photos

No, don't understand your smell comment. I plug the tank vent, never experienced any petrol loss via the carb. Definitely no smell in the car. If there is it because I forgot the tank vent plug

cymaz05/03/2019 21:18:12
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8530 forum posts
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Learn how to start your engine. Some motors like to be dripping wet, some only need to get the slightest whiff on fuel and they’re off.

I’m not a big fan of cranking a 2 stroke engine engine with an electric starter. Correctly choked and a good spark it should start by a few firm flicks.

Also check your ignition timing...helps greatly with smooth running and starting.

A good capacity battery for the ignition is a must.

flyeruk05/03/2019 22:01:38
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472 forum posts
58 photos

Many thanks for the replies,a few things there to keep in mind.As to restraints,apart from a helper,what would you suggest?

cymaz05/03/2019 22:10:38
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8530 forum posts
1150 photos

I have two lengths of bar. Slipped over the bar is some garden hose. I cable tied some foam pipe lagging over the hose. Simple as that.

Rich too06/03/2019 06:10:49
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2902 forum posts
1046 photos
Posted by flyeruk on 05/03/2019 22:01:38:

Many thanks for the replies,a few things there to keep in mind.As to restraints,apart from a helper,what would you suggest?

Similarly I use two lengths of rebar hammered into the ground, and restrain the tail with a length of tie straps.

I agree, I use a decent leather glove for starting, no need for carrying heavy starting equipment - thats one of the joys of petrol.

i totally agree with Geoff, and I never have problems with the smell.

I find petrol power very practical. Good luck.

flyeruk06/03/2019 07:58:30
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472 forum posts
58 photos

Thanks very much for the responses.Im picking it up next week,will let you know how it goes.

Engine Doctor06/03/2019 09:09:52
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2254 forum posts
24 photos

As already said a good restraint for model is essential . Never had a problem with the smell in the car . I can only think that those that make this comment either haven't actually transported a petrol model in their car or they don't empty the fuel and have a leak in their system . A fire extinguisher is a good idea even with glow engines.. a sturdy leather glove for starting is a must unless you have a good electric starter. Fresh fuel .Good luck and enjoy.

MaL06/03/2019 10:35:12
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140 forum posts
13 photos

I never empty the models tank, just bung the breather while transporting to prevent syphoning. Be careful not to empty the carb of fuel for any length of time as that will lead to the flap valve sticking, necessitating a strip down to free it off. I carried, and always used, a starting stick (wooden pole with a rubber sock). Choke on, ignition on throttle at max, flick until it kicks - it wont run, just kick a couple of times - open the choke, close the throttle to 1 click open and flick till it starts (usually 3 or 4 flicks), but always concentrate on what you are doing!!! always worked for me over several different engines

Model retention was a webbing strap wrapped around the tail and two large ground pegs and then get behind the prop ASAP.

Enjoy the petrol experience.

Bruce Collinson06/03/2019 13:37:08
378 forum posts

Restraint ... a 50 is likely to swamp the standard Y-shape spike, in size as well as thrust, but perhaps use yellow/white webbing, rope or whatever to avoid what happened here last week when a certain ex-Chairman nearly pulled the whole tail off my pal's new pride and joy by tripping over dark coloured restraint straps.

My pal was so livid, he kicked his guide dog.

BTC

Engine Doctor09/03/2019 11:14:56
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2254 forum posts
24 photos
Posted by Bruce Collinson on 06/03/2019 13:37:08:

Restraint ... a 50 is likely to swamp the standard Y-shape spike, in size as well as thrust, but perhaps use yellow/white webbing, rope or whatever to avoid what happened here last week when a certain ex-Chairman nearly pulled the whole tail off my pal's new pride and joy by tripping over dark coloured restraint straps.

My pal was so livid, he kicked his guide dog.

BTC

I use two stout wooden dowels Knocked into the ground sloping to the back of the model . I shape the bottom to a point and harden with cyano . On the top end I fit a piece old alloy tube to stop it splitting when being banged into the ground.. Then fit some pipe insulation to protect your model . Don't use/trust these on their own but do get a helper to support the model as well . As already said the "Y" restraints are easily overwhelmed by a large engine .

You wont have to kick their guide dog as the culprit will be impaled on the restraint smiley.

cymaz09/03/2019 11:20:06
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8530 forum posts
1150 photos

Good thick welding glove is excellent hand protection if flick starting....

.not like this,

Wingman09/03/2019 12:19:59
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1086 forum posts
404 photos

I use a Dog Anchor as a restraint with a loop of 10mm bungee cord (because of its soft cover) fitted through the swivel and looped over the aircraft tail. No need for a hammer and impossible to drag out of the ground.

ps no idea why the illustrated ones are all different prices - the cheapest ones do the job.

Edited By Wingman on 09/03/2019 12:22:14

Bruce Collinson09/03/2019 12:54:12
378 forum posts

Yes, forgot the dog anchor. Last one I bought was really cheap but chrome plated as opposed to galvanised is it has less friction and penetrates deeper.

BTC

David P Williams09/03/2019 12:58:37
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834 forum posts
282 photos

I've just joined a second club, where the flying is off tarmac and the pits area is tarmac too. My main club is all on grass so I use the Y spike usually, with a larger, more robust version with bigger spike for larger models.

What do you suggest I use to restrain models on the hard surface? I've seen other members there just start their models on a flat table holding with one hand - scary.

Wingman09/03/2019 13:06:35
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1086 forum posts
404 photos

Hmmm! how about a large concrete block with a ring bolt sunk into it - wouldn't be portable thoughsmiley.

Suppose the easiest way would be to pour water into a 25kg bag of cement until it solidified.

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