By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by CML

Jim build thread

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Ramblin gruntfuttock07/03/2019 19:50:06
avatar
29 forum posts
16 photos

So my build has started. Will be a slow job but already learning loads from the other builds. Chris, you reckon it will be the naughty step if you don't do this in 6 months. If i manage it n 6 months I will be parading like Usain Bolt at the Olympics.

First of many questions. John has put the fittings in for the motor, which I need to buy. From what Chris has stated earlier am I right that I need something around 500KV. Bare in mind I am a total novice learning on a foam trainer. I don't need light speed.....yet.

20190307_164254.jpg

Cheers

Jim

Ramblin gruntfuttock07/03/2019 19:51:42
avatar
29 forum posts
16 photos

Sorry meant Tony not John. 🙄

tony oneill 109/03/2019 11:11:52
54 forum posts
36 photos

Hi jim, i decided to go with a ripmax quantum 40 motor and 60A speed controller with a 4 cell battery at 14.4 volts. This is the equivalent of a .40 or 6cc two stroke engine. This should give the plane trainer like flight (i hope) as i am moving on from high wing trainers. I have two other .40 two stroke planes, both low wing thats why i went electric.

Motor mounts can be make from plywood, or you can buy ready made aluminium ones. There is a mounting plate on the rear of the motor that fits to the mount.

I went with threaded rod as its cheap, will be covered and will be easy to angle the motor if i need to. First time I've tried it though, so if its no good its easy to change. That said its stronger that i thought and with the motor fitted there is no movement so I'm confident it will be ok. I used M4 rod with nylock self locking nuts and plain washers. All from B and Q total cost around 7 quid. The motor and speed controller were about 70 quid together.

Regards

Tony

tony oneill 109/03/2019 11:15:19
54 forum posts
36 photos

Oops, i should mention the firewall F1 former could be moved forward and trimmed at the bottom to provide a direct mount. I decided not to in case i decide to put a two stroke in as a conversion

Ramblin gruntfuttock09/03/2019 18:22:27
avatar
29 forum posts
16 photos

Thanks for the reply Tony. I think I have now sourced the parts. Looked at yours and I think my calcs are ok. I will share more later. I have for now something of a problem and staring at the drawing and you photos has drawn a blank. F2 and F2a I see the 3mm overhang each side from F2a to F2 but cant see how this fits when F2 fits flush to the fuselage side. See photos. I know it's probably obvious but unfortunately not to me frown20190309_175920.jpg20190309_175926.jpg

tony oneill 109/03/2019 18:40:07
54 forum posts
36 photos

Yes i had the same problem. I ended up trimming F2A to fit behind F2 as its doubler to strengthen the wing mount. Then i stuck it in place and then fitted the U/C brace, after i fitted the 6mm undercarriage mount. I trimmed either end so the holes lined up.

Ramblin gruntfuttock09/03/2019 20:04:33
avatar
29 forum posts
16 photos

Thanks Tony. I'll sort tomorrow and start some gluing

Chris Walby09/03/2019 21:56:35
avatar
873 forum posts
211 photos

Jim,

I used one of these as I had a couple of spares

20190309_214415.jpg

PM me with your address and I post it to you (although you could make one yourself or use studding), I can't see myself needing the spare one and you'll do me a favour of de-cluttering. wink

20190309_214535.jpg

Old Geezer10/03/2019 00:13:09
570 forum posts

Now THAT'S what I call a proper motor mount box - unlike the delicate little thing that arrived on the front of my Wot4-e fuselage - that fell apart the first time the prop' clipped the grass on landing, not even hard enough to peck, let alone trip her up and flip her over.

Sorry - off topic rant - but looking at the picture above I'm sure you can see my point.

Low pass Pete10/03/2019 21:35:02
avatar
203 forum posts
118 photos

Ref F2 and 2A. These are laminated to align the wing dowel holes and 2A is 1/8 in wider each side. I have just put a slot onto the fuz doubler to provide a keyway for 2A. This helps to hold the assembly in place.

I have also fitted some additional 1/2 in square behind F1 to give a more positive location. I am using a 62 4 stroke so I feel it wise to beef up some areas accordingly. I have also revised the tank floor as I intend not to have a tank hatch but fit the fuel tank from the rear through F2 Not having a hatch will mean more strength.

Hope that is useful.

Cheers

Peter

Ramblin gruntfuttock11/03/2019 14:45:05
avatar
29 forum posts
16 photos

Thanks Pete. I have gone Tony's route and cut the overhang off, but can see how the flange piece would add stability. I'm thinking I could put a stringer into the corner for a little added strength if needed. I will have a look later.

Thanks for your advice

Jim

Ramblin gruntfuttock16/03/2019 17:53:06
avatar
29 forum posts
16 photos

Todays progress. Mainly thank goodness there is only one F5 because it has stretched my patience a little but hopefully sorted and left to harden overnight. The rest seems ok. 20190316_173953.jpg

Ramblin gruntfuttock16/03/2019 17:54:23
avatar
29 forum posts
16 photos

20190314_171112.jpg

Ramblin gruntfuttock22/03/2019 17:22:13
avatar
29 forum posts
16 photos

Managed some time today to carry on with the fuselage. Think i got the upper rounded stringer right.

20190322_163856.jpg

20190322_163911.jpg

tony oneill 122/03/2019 21:29:44
54 forum posts
36 photos

Neat work jim, looking good.

Ramblin gruntfuttock24/03/2019 09:56:16
avatar
29 forum posts
16 photos

I'm thinking I have come across my first major mistake but may have a solution I hope and your advice would be greatly appreciated . I'll start with the photos

20190324_085108.jpg

Nothing is fitting around the cowling area, I've been studying the drawings and still don't see the problem but studying your photos I think I have set the triangular piece that butts to F1 to high then placed a 6mm stringer along the bottom. Also it all finishes flush at the front. I don't think this is correct as the 2 cowling pieces don't fit inside.

If I'm right on this I think the solution s to cut this triangular piece to fit. Hope this makes sense to you and you can advise.

Thanks Jim

tony oneill 124/03/2019 10:59:49
54 forum posts
36 photos

Hi jim, my solution was to trim the triangular pieces to fit, as in this photo

front end.jpg

Ramblin gruntfuttock24/03/2019 16:10:35
avatar
29 forum posts
16 photos

Thanks Tony. I wasnt sure if it would affect something further on. Didn't think it would but thanks for the confirmation, much appreciated

Jim

Low pass Pete25/03/2019 06:49:55
avatar
203 forum posts
118 photos

Agree on that Tony. Sorry not to have replied earlier but we were away.

Cheers

Peter

Ramblin gruntfuttock26/03/2019 20:27:57
avatar
29 forum posts
16 photos

Hi folks. I am reading the posts you are all making with great interest and would ask a favour, could you post a picture showing the problem/resolutions. Most of what you are saying is going over my head especially as i have not started the wings yet and am still working on the fuselage

. I have found all of your photos of the fuselage an absolute boon as i progress and refer to them and the drawings together all the time.

Thanks in anticipation of your help

Jim

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find RCM&E! 

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Slec
Gliders Distribution
Motion RC
CML
Revoc
Pepe Aircraft
electricwingman 2017
Wings & Wheels 2018
Advertise With Us
Sarik
Latest "For Sale" Ads
Does your club have a safety officer?
Q: Does your club have a safety officer, or is the emphasis on individual members to each be their own safety officer?

 Yes we have a SO
 No, it's down to everyone

Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us