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Seagull 80" DH Chipmunk

A bit of light relief

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REVIEW: Seagull DHC-1 Chipmunk

REVIEW: Seagull DHC-1 Chipmunk

Andy Gower finds much to admire in Seagull’s 80” ARTF Chippy

Trevor14/03/2019 22:14:37
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386 forum posts
54 photos

Re: the tight wing joiner, I was recommended this a while back: Link

it works well with brass box/steel blade joiners, but I haven’t tried it with other materials.

HTH

Trevor

Danny Fenton14/03/2019 23:55:04
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9194 forum posts
4039 photos

Thanks Trevor, worth a shot. I have tried a silicone dry lube, but alas that didnt help.

I have reached out to the manufacturer, as Chris and I cannot be the only ones seeing the issue?

Cheers

Danny

Low pass Pete15/03/2019 07:42:22
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216 forum posts
122 photos

Ref wing joiner stiffness. Mine was also very stiff. I have left it installed on the most stiff side as the other one releases ok.

Strikes me that the builders had not matched the components and just packed them and sent the kits on their way. Most unlike Seagull.

I found that rotating it back and forth on each wing panel helped to ease it off by the way.

Cheers

Peter

Edited By Low pass Pete on 15/03/2019 07:47:18

Edited By Low pass Pete on 15/03/2019 07:48:14

Danny Fenton15/03/2019 08:07:24
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9194 forum posts
4039 photos

Thanks Peter, no amount of sanding is getting either of mine loose enough to get apart. Twisting gets it apart, but you have nothing to hold and twist.

I may devise a sort of reverse wing bolt in the fus. As you tighten, it pushes the wing off.

Very annoying. If i sand anymore tube away it will be too weak.

Cheers

Danny

Paul C.15/03/2019 09:56:37
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594 forum posts
150 photos

Don't know if this is any help but years ago I used to fly thermal soarers built with aly tube wing spars and round steel or aly joiners 'depending on wind strength'. These had a nasty habit of sticking as well, sanding was never very successful for some reason but using abrasive paste worked well. Fine valve grinding paste and braso worked best, I can only think that it cleaned up any high spots.

Best of luck, Paul.

Denis Watkins15/03/2019 11:31:45
3911 forum posts
61 photos

Danny, Aluminium surrounds us, but some of these tubes are the least friendly alloy

They appear to be light weight and stiff, but unbelievably, they are soft, relative to Aluminium

They look like a cheap alloy, and do grip, because of the surface

I have changed smaller models to carbon tube

But in your case, roughing up the inner fibreglass tube is just giving more grip

Polish the wing tubes with fine wet and dry, used wet with soap

Just wipe the wet and dry on a bar of soap or a drop of wash up liquid, then wet the lot

Edited By Denis Watkins on 15/03/2019 11:32:06

Ron Gray15/03/2019 13:17:33
1478 forum posts
363 photos

Try shoe polish and buff it up.

Doc Marten15/03/2019 14:14:31
377 forum posts
4 photos

Talcum powder?

ASH.15/03/2019 14:42:34
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307 forum posts

Graphite has been suggested for tight pushrods, it may work for this.

McG 696915/03/2019 15:30:14
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2617 forum posts
989 photos

Denis' polishing trick gets very close as it brings back a 'glass'-type surface.

Next a light spray of PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene). PTFE has the second lowest coefficient of friction of any solid on our planet. The lowest simply being ice.

I use the Würth brand, but there are some others around.

Cheers

Chris

Paul C.15/03/2019 15:59:26
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594 forum posts
150 photos

KY jelly 😲

Danny Fenton15/03/2019 17:08:54
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9194 forum posts
4039 photos

Hi Chaps and thanks for all your input, certainly food for thought.

To be honest it feels like the glass tubes are not happy to be sanded, they are also porous, so anything we use will probably soak into the tubes

As the issue is the last inch, and i would only need to pull one wing, as then you could twist the joiner to remove the other. I am going to make a screw jack to push the wing that half inch to get it loose.

If I can get some stuff such as ptfe I will give that a go. But having spent several hours on this already I am getting tired of the issues. Perkins haven't responded so far, and a post on RCGroups not much either.

I guess if it was easy everybody would build models......

Cheers

Danny

McG 696915/03/2019 17:24:51
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2617 forum posts
989 photos

You should really try some PTFE at least once, Danny.

It's really amazing stuff, even for your RDS wire in its melamine box...

I don't know if the German Würth brand is available in the UK, but it 's giving excellent results.

IIRC, WD-40 also has a PTFE spray available.

Cheers

Chris

Ron Gray16/03/2019 13:34:17
1478 forum posts
363 photos
Posted by Danny Fenton on 10/03/2019 10:10:30:

Spent a very pleasant couple of hours last evening with pizza and beer setting up my new X10 with Chris Bott.

We flashed my X10 to the latest firmware, and then we copied Chris's setup from his X12S to my Companion software, I then copied the model into my Tx, the software realised the Tx's were different and converted the file. I then copied the config to the Tx. The reason you do it this way is to avoid copying Chris's Tx callibration.

Some of the sensors, Volta, Amps, Alt etc needing re-discovering but after 30 minutes I had an identical config to Chris's. Awesome radio.

Chris makes these sensor boards, based around an Arduino processor, he also has designed this really nifty power board which allows dual power feeds for your Rx, if one fails the other will take the load. A clever cahp is Chris!

027.jpg

Chris has an article on the sensor board coming up in a future issue of RCM&E, should be good! Chris is helping to put the "E" back in RCM&E, well done Chris, and thanks!

Cheers

Danny

Is this sensor an update / copy of the OpenXSensor device?

Chris Bott - Moderator16/03/2019 14:48:52
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Moderator
6665 forum posts
1381 photos
1 articles

Hi Ron. It is indeed an implementation of OpenXSensor. There's an article coming up soon in RCM&E. I'm intending to have a proper thread on it here, as soon as it's published.

Chris

Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 16/03/2019 14:49:27

Ron Gray16/03/2019 15:18:40
1478 forum posts
363 photos

Brilliant, I was looking at the OpenXSensor but saw that it has largely been ‘neglected’ by the designer for the past couple of years so eagerly await the article / thread as I want to build one!

Mike Blandford16/03/2019 15:48:38
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532 forum posts
22 photos

There is a lot of information on the openXsensor here: **LINK**.

If you want something "simple" to start with, you could look at **LINK**.

I did this to replace the X8R2Analog device I designed that was available from T9Hobbysport (and Aloft in the US), but has recently been discontinued. Note it uses a 3.3V, 8MHz Arduino Pro Mini.

Mike

Chris Bott - Moderator16/03/2019 18:08:07
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Moderator
6665 forum posts
1381 photos
1 articles

I now have a wing tube with an acceptable fit. Thanks to some suggestions here and some perseverance.

The ally tube has been smoothed with 600 wet n dry used wet, especially at the ends to be absolutely sure there's no burr.

But the most difference has been made by making my sanding tube a tighter fit. This is 120 grit aluminium oxide paper wrapped until it's a tight fit inside the wing. Obviously this applies more "sanding pressure" than previous attempts.

Danny Fenton16/03/2019 18:42:31
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9194 forum posts
4039 photos

Excellent news Chris, i will have another go when I get home

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton21/03/2019 16:20:44
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9194 forum posts
4039 photos

Okay a little bit more done.

I tried a larger sanding bar, well actually just did as Chris has and wound more paper on the piece of copper pipe until the size was closer. This has done the trick and thought the wing tube is now snug it can be slid of without risk to the wings internal structure.

I then moved on to the rudder and fin. On mine when the fuselage block is alligned the fin is offset heavily to the right, ie nose right. This is fine for an IC powered model, or electric with clockwise prop. But not if you wanted to do the model scale with A/C/W prop. ah well its not much of an issue really.

The rudder has an awful gret lump that is supposed to look like a trim tab on the trailing edge. The film was peeled back and the lump removed. The fine was then shaped and recovered in that area.

040.jpg

041.jpg

Rudder was attached using the provided fluffy hinges and trapped the piano wire wire tailwheel linkage.

The rudder and elevator throws were set. Had to use the very inner holes on the servos, and reduced the travel in the TX as well.

Cheers

Danny

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