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Elevator joiner wire plastic tube bearing

fitting?

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Gary Murphy 117/06/2019 17:10:26
377 forum posts
14 photos

The Elevator on the kit I am building is in 2 halves.

I have to bend the wire after I insert it into aplastic tube,great ! I then have to inset this to a piece of wood matching the elevator.

Is all of the plastic tube set into this piece of wood OR do I have to inset some/half into the horizontal tail?

Going by the plan ,if the wire is inset flush to elevator front none of the tube will reach the tail, I could be wrong.

Denis Watkins17/06/2019 18:36:33
3682 forum posts
173 photos

You are right Gary

Half the horizontal tube in the moving surface and half in the horizontal stabilizer

This just puts the hinge mechanism, more of less on its centreline, between the two

Allan Bennett17/06/2019 21:17:16
1518 forum posts
38 photos

You're aiming to get the joining wire in line with the centreline of the elevator hinges so, as Denis has said, it should probably be set about half in the horizontal stabiliser and half in the piece of wood that matches the elevator profile.

Usually the tube is not a bearing per se (the hinges are what hold the elevators in place, not the joiner wire) so geometrically, so long as the wire is a loose fit in it, it's not too critical about the exact tube placement.

Edited By Allan Bennett on 17/06/2019 21:19:35

Gary Murphy 117/06/2019 21:57:12
377 forum posts
14 photos

Not a very good method is it, trying to bend the wire in the plastic tube will be fun.

Nigel R17/06/2019 22:00:08
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2858 forum posts
469 photos

Do you actually need the plastic tube or will it work without?

Geoff Sleath17/06/2019 23:58:54
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3254 forum posts
247 photos

That's what I was thinking, Nigel. I can't honestly I've ever bothered with supporting an elevator joiner. I just use 3 hinges/side and leave the joiner unsupported. They're not usually very long.

Geoff

Dwain Dibley.18/06/2019 00:34:59
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1265 forum posts
1254 photos

On my one the elevator join rod passes through an add on piece of balsa about 50 mm wide. This sits in between the two elevator halves, and is joined to the tail plane. The two elevator halves sit either side of the middle piece, the elevator joiner tube is glued in between the tail plane and the centre piece.

This pic shows the tail plane centre bit, where the tube is buried.

The elevator halves are then fitted onto the hinges and the joiner rod.

You can always omit the tube and add the elevators with joiner wire fitted then fit the centre piece, sandwiching the joiner in the pre grooved balsa. However you need to take care to not glue the wire in...........that is why the tube is used in the first place.

jr 60 covered  003.jpg

Dwain Dibley.18/06/2019 00:36:39
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1265 forum posts
1254 photos

Drew this to illustrate (hopefully) what I mean. i also posted this in your other thread by mistake. DOH !! blush

D.D.

img_20190618_002612.jpg

brokenenglish18/06/2019 09:14:07
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427 forum posts
28 photos

My BB Majestic Major is still happily flying after more than 30 years, and the elevators are just joined by the wire. There is no bearing tube.

Gary Murphy 118/06/2019 09:23:22
377 forum posts
14 photos

I see what you are saying, the hinges will hold the elevator on to the tail, so the tube is not really needed for strength. I might go with just the wire. I can see me damaging the tube anyway when I bend the wire. thanks guys

Bob Cotsford18/06/2019 10:27:31
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7837 forum posts
433 photos

I've nearly always buried joiners and aileron torque rods by just giving the section of wire to be buried a smear of Vaseline (other petroleum jellies are available) before gluing on the balsa cap. If anything, too rigid a location for the joiner can interfere with the elevator hinge movement unless it's very carefully aligned.

Gary Murphy 118/06/2019 15:28:43
377 forum posts
14 photos

Sorry if I am making more of this than necessary but not had to do this before and do not want to glue stuff only to find I have made a error.

I have bent the rod with the tube,came out good. The elevators are shown with a 1mm gap at hinge (too much/little?) The plastic tube moves along the wire freely bearly touching the tail. The filler block will push up to the tail leaving no gap. Should I go and glue OR cut the plastic tube away and use the Vaseline tip?

Lastly is 1mm gaps at hinges enough to allow be fore covering,never got this far before?

Nigel R18/06/2019 17:52:38
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2858 forum posts
469 photos

I'd leave alone, if you've done it and it moves freely and looks ok.

1mm gap sounds about right to me.

Silly question... but you're gluing the elevators on after covering, right?

Denis Watkins18/06/2019 17:55:18
3682 forum posts
173 photos

The elevator has to move, and is typically shaped either by a radius or a " V " with very small gap

It is your build, so offer up the work to test for full movement without an appreciable gap

As surfaces work best in air with no gap

The final covering will seal any gap

But set too close, the elevator may not be able to move

Test it

Peter Miller18/06/2019 18:15:10
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9929 forum posts
1160 photos
10 articles

I use brass tube when there is any distance between the two elevators

Mike T18/06/2019 19:32:33
404 forum posts
28 photos
Posted by Gary Murphy 1 on 18/06/2019 15:28:43:

... The elevators are shown with a 1mm gap at hinge (too much/little?) The plastic tube moves along the wire freely bearly touching the tail. The filler block will push up to the tail leaving no gap. Should I go and glue OR cut the plastic tube away and use the Vaseline tip?

Lastly is 1mm gaps at hinges enough to allow be fore covering,never got this far before?

Look at your plan. It shows the joiner wire inset into the elevator LE. The Nylon bearing tube is likewise inset into the 50mm balsa cover piece. Follow this and you should end up with a gap the width of the wall-thickness of the nylon tube, but hey, this is balsa we're working with!

Cut all your grooves/holes/hinge slots to get a nice fit. THEN cover and then fettle it all to fit nicely before gluing.

(BTW, I agree with Peter re supporting a joiner of any significant length)

Gary Murphy 118/06/2019 22:30:57
377 forum posts
14 photos

Sorry guys i forgot to attach 2 pictures so show what i was getting at! too late now but will post anyway.

So order of play is, glue and trap plastic tube with bent wire to tail, sand and shape tail leaving rear edge flat. slot for hinges.

bevel elevator halves,slot for hinges, then cover, Then joint to tail with hinges and the wire making sure the halves are aligned?

Sorry guys that will be the last post on this

dscn0876.jpg

dscn0875.jpg

Mike T19/06/2019 02:23:54
404 forum posts
28 photos

Spot on...

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