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F86 "Gamma" Build

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Martin Gay29/07/2019 14:38:56
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The second wing has been completed to the same stage, so onto the fuselage construction.

Checking the fit of F15 at the rear end. This is one of the "Gotchas" on this model. It is very difficult to retro fit F15 after the rear formers are glued up!All looking good.

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Martin Gay29/07/2019 14:42:07
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At the front end all the other formers are checked for fit and fettled with a sanding block, if required.

F14 is fitted through three of the formers - again another "Gotcha" if it is forgotten.

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Martin Gay29/07/2019 14:46:13
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img_2934.jpgThe plan calls for balsa keels 1/8" x 1/4" for the rear half of the fuselage. These can be a bit tricky to bend properly so two pieces of 1/8" square can be used as they will follow the curve easier.

I chose to cut some slotted keel pieces from 1/8" sheet instead. It takes a bit longer but locks all the formers in tight!

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Edited By Martin Gay on 29/07/2019 14:49:10

Martin Gay29/07/2019 14:48:41
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3/16" balsa stringers added to tie all the formers together. These are not structural items, so a softer grade of balsa could be used.

Then the fun (planking) starts.

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Edited By Martin Gay on 29/07/2019 14:49:42

Martin Gay30/07/2019 11:55:46
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Here is a messy photo from the prototype build that shows the fuselage stringers and the original F1.

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Martin Gay30/07/2019 11:58:05
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Another messy bench photo of the prototype fuselage being planked. I used 36 inch long strips to do this one and had to have multiple joins in the planks. Each joint was placed over a bulkhead former for strength, however there is nothing to stop you from using 48 inch long balsa planks.

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Martin Gay30/07/2019 11:59:08
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396 forum posts
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Compare this image of the prototype 36 inch planking with that of the next post.

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Martin Gay30/07/2019 12:01:34
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396 forum posts
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This is the latest, "Gamma" build using 48 inch long planks. The finish is much better this time around, probably because I am not rushing it and I have had a bit of practice recently!

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Martin Gay30/07/2019 12:02:05
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396 forum posts
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Bob Jennings 130/07/2019 12:09:06
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Nice planking. You have substantially more pins than I do! Great work.

Phil Beard18/08/2019 20:21:35
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Martin,

Have been looking at the plans today so that I can order things up and was wondering what Servo's you've used in the prototype?

I've always used Futaba Radio Gear and would like to know which Servo would be most suited as I've always used S148's or S3001's which have always worked out ok but I can see that I will need smaller Servo's for the Sabre build. Any advice would be greatly received.

All the Best

Phil Beard

Phil Beard18/08/2019 20:33:49
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Martin,

Have been looking at the plans today so that I can order things up and was wondering what Servo's you've used in the prototype?

I've always used Futaba Radio Gear and would like to know which Servo would be most suited as I've always used S148's or S3001's which have always worked out ok but I can see that I will need smaller Servo's for the Sabre build. Any advice would be greatly received.

All the Best

Phil Beard

Martin Gay18/08/2019 21:25:52
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396 forum posts
255 photos

Hi Phil,

I used cheap Turnigy 9018MG servos in the prototype model. Any micro size servos will fit in the wing.

Futaba 3150 servos (or similar) will work. They cost more though!

Phil Beard21/08/2019 15:24:22
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53 forum posts
77 photos

Martin,

Hopefully this will be my last question.

What size of Piano Wire and tube did you use for the Tail using the SLEC SL834-R Obtuse Angle Tail Horn.

Just going to check with what I've got in stock or purchase along with my wood order and the tail horn.

Thanks for your help as I'm hoping to have everything ready and waiting on the 1st Nov to start the build.

All the Best

Phil Beard

Martin Gay21/08/2019 22:22:29
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396 forum posts
255 photos

Hi Phil,

You can drill out the tail horn to suit the wire you have. However it must still fit inside the tailplames.

For info the prototype used 1/8" (8g or 3.2mm) for the front joiner and 3/32" (10g or 2.4mm) for the rear joiner. The rear needs to be thinner as it is closer to the tail trailing edge.

Edited By Martin Gay on 21/08/2019 22:23:23

John H. Rood19/09/2019 17:31:14
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271 forum posts
391 photos

Martin, may I ask what types of glue have you been using thus far? I'm especially curious as to what works well with the planking process, as in, "sandability". Cheers on a great build.

Martin Gay21/09/2019 17:05:15
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396 forum posts
255 photos

Hi John,

I use Titebond Original. It grabs in about 20 minutes and is easy to sand.

Martin.

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John H. Rood21/09/2019 18:40:10
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271 forum posts
391 photos

Martin, thanks! yes

Peter Garsden23/09/2019 08:53:08
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1728 forum posts
1297 photos

On the subject of planking, I have used aliphatic to attach the sides of the planking, and cyano to hold it down underneath as that works well. Look at my Canberra blog or Andy Blackburn's which is better **LINK**

John H. Rood24/09/2019 17:39:30
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271 forum posts
391 photos

Peter, thank you.

It's been so long since I've done any real woodwork that I have forgotten lessons learned in the past. It's a long ways back from the House of Sin. So busy talking, instead of actually building.

So I have now dusted off my glue stash and found that I need to replenish the Super 'Phatic et al; and today I learned of a new product from Titebond: QUICK & THICK -- new to you all? Heavy? I shall give it a try here and there as I now finish up my A-4 Skyhawk 2016 Glacial-Speed build. Product promo video: https://youtu.be/XLjE9Bbk-bw

p.s.  Peter, your build blogs are GREAT!  Tons of helpful stuff, and lots of dry savage wit.

Edited By John H. Rood on 24/09/2019 17:43:21

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