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Phil's F-86 Sabre build thread

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Phil Cooke30/05/2020 21:09:17
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2596 forum posts
1824 photos

Nothing measured as yet John no, still a bit to do with glass and paint etc. I'm targeting 4lbs as per the Gamma Build example built from the same woodpack - but time will tell!?

Edited By Phil Cooke on 30/05/2020 21:16:17

Phil Cooke01/06/2020 12:30:52
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2596 forum posts
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A very theraputic couple of evenings with the paintbrush has the pilot and the seat, both 3D printed, ready for fitment (at a later stage admittedly) - but a nice break from all the sanding and glass work still ongoing!

pilot paint 3.jpg

SR 7101/06/2020 13:32:12
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452 forum posts
140 photos

Hmm that looks nasty where the peg is inserted, nice job

Phil Cooke02/06/2020 11:08:15
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2596 forum posts
1824 photos

The pilot and seat are all painted up, bar a little weathering later on - to be applied with the rest of the cockpit paint later on... that's enough time enjoying myself with the paintbrush for now. I need to push on with the final sanding of the fuselage before glass.

pilot paint 4.jpg

dirk tinck02/06/2020 22:57:43
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631 forum posts
866 photos

Colorfull combo Phil !And a well detailed pilot !

I can't find any colored images of the Italian aerobatics team pilots so i improvised with a black and white photo next to me. I think they had bleu-ish suitsrainbow.

Did you paint the flag on his shoulder ?Very nice !

Phil Cooke03/06/2020 09:21:33
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2596 forum posts
1824 photos

Yes my pilot utilises a little artistic licence too. I think the team (short lived) flew with Orange helmets but I preferred the white and the little painted national flag added some detail - likely to be lost though once the canopy frame is painted I think as it will sit just below that eye level!

McG 696903/06/2020 09:58:59
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3252 forum posts
1236 photos

Great colorful driver indeed, Phil.

... but I'm afraid you still have to paint that little red star with yellow outline on the ex-Yugo flag... devil

Cheers

Chris

Phil Cooke06/06/2020 19:34:36
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2596 forum posts
1824 photos

We'll see about the little red star on the tiny flag Chris... wink

The weather here was foul today with rain and high winds. I had hoped to get outside and finish my fuselage sanding but this was not possible, so I looked for a nice cosy indoor job to complete. I ended up dropping the wing servos in and programming the ailerons all ready for flight - jumping the queue a little maybe but it's all in need of doing.

The torque rods are angled with the wing sweep so the ball joints are essential to take out the arcing movement - it all works well with no slop.

wing servos.jpg

One point of interest - I will need to cyano 'thread lock' the little white horns to the torque rods as any rotation here once set up effectively puts up or down trim onto the aileron, again an effect of the wing sweep. They don't move under operation, but could move during handling or transportation - a drop or two of glue will build more confidence in the set up.

Phil Cooke07/06/2020 20:28:58
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2596 forum posts
1824 photos

I've set up and glued the fin into position today - measuring the fuselage was flat in its cradle then using a little plumb bob pinned to the centreline of the rudder T/E - very easy then to align down the centreline to ensure everything is square. I used 20 minute epoxy on the 2 glue areas front and rear to give me plenty of wiggle time.

fin glue 1.jpg

A lot of the fin is left unsupported with a little gap between the 2 x F15 tailplane bearing formers... I've still got to add the triangular section at the base which will also help retain the fin, but I think I'll add some balsa wedges to further improve the bond.

The L/E ventral fin was pre-sanded in section a little then added as was the fillet blend piece, which I increased somewhat in size from that shown on the plan.

fin glue 2.jpg

I've clearly cut my false rudder a little too deep, it only allows a tiny little T/E fillet which isnt quite big enough for true scale, but its there in character - nerd still needs final shaping in this view.

fin glue 3.jpg

John Donohoe11/06/2020 13:33:49
10 forum posts
1 photos

Hi Phil , is there an instrument panel to download and how do you get it to fit the size

Peter Garsden12/06/2020 12:53:16
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1729 forum posts
1301 photos

I have shown an instrument panel that I used on my blog here if you want to use it.

cockpitfront.jpg

Phil Cooke16/06/2020 21:12:05
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2596 forum posts
1824 photos

Had a bit of time away from the Sabre with other commitments this past week, but back on the bench now! I've finally tackled the tricky fillet blend along the fin and the dorsal spine. But not without the use of a bit of filler. 9mm balsa triangular section runs across the fin base and onto the rear of the spine and then a fillet of filler does the rest. Also blending the fin base to the thinner spine section.

fin fillet 1.jpg

I'm not sure whats been going on but I've been having real trouble with my filler - it's setting with localised harder lumps in the mix, which arent there when I apply it as a paste - the variable density when sanded results in an orande peel like finish as opposed to a smooth iced cake! Not good at all - and all you can do is pick the harder lumps out from the surface and refill locally. I've not seen this before, its a relatively new pot of decent modellers filler??

dirk tinck16/06/2020 22:29:34
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631 forum posts
866 photos

Hi Phil ,the only thing i can think of,as a cause of your filler problems is a reaction of a underlying product like glue ?

Maybe run a test piece ?

I can see now that your trailing edge fillet is vanished under the fin fillet ! I had thesame problem and i dropped a piece of the rudder onto the fin embarrassed...

Did you open up the channel for the elevator joiner ?Not enough travel ?My elevators are touching the fuse at their leading edge when i give full up(movement planwise )

Too late now to change.I hope i have enough ''up''with reduced elevator travel...

Stephen Jones16/06/2020 22:36:43
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2840 forum posts
1617 photos
Posted by Phil Cooke on 06/06/2020 19:34:36:

We'll see about the little red star on the tiny flag Chris... wink

The weather here was foul today with rain and high winds. I had hoped to get outside and finish my fuselage sanding but this was not possible, so I looked for a nice cosy indoor job to complete. I ended up dropping the wing servos in and programming the ailerons all ready for flight - jumping the queue a little maybe but it's all in need of doing.

The torque rods are angled with the wing sweep so the ball joints are essential to take out the arcing movement - it all works well with no slop.

wing servos.jpg

One point of interest - I will need to cyano 'thread lock' the little white horns to the torque rods as any rotation here once set up effectively puts up or down trim onto the aileron, again an effect of the wing sweep. They don't move under operation, but could move during handling or transportation - a drop or two of glue will build more confidence in the set up.

Hi, i have had problems with ball links on those torque rods i would put the ball links on the servo arms and the clevis onto the torque rods no need for glue.

Steve.

Phil Cooke17/06/2020 15:00:33
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2596 forum posts
1824 photos

Hi Dirk,

Yeah in the last photo you can see where the 9mm triangular section over-runs the fin at the rear and swamps out the little T/E fillet. My rudder is cut too deep, too low - but its all fixed and glassed so no alteration will be done on that. However a little sanding of the triangular section gets you back to something quite characteristic of the real thing.

fin rear fillet 1.jpg

Still needs a little more thinning at the extreme rear - it should be the same thickness as the rudder Trailing edge all the way down. More careful sanding where needed - but only there!

fin rear fillet 2.jpg

Stephen - thanks for the comment - are you suggesting you've experienced the torque rod horns rotating due to the small moment about the rod in normal operation?? I can turn mine by hand but they are pretty tight on the threads - certainly wouldnt expect them to move during flight due to aerodynamic load. I did show I could knock them or move them with careless handling - which results in the aileron neutral position altering - but it takes some doing!

Stephen Jones17/06/2020 22:58:58
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2840 forum posts
1617 photos
Posted by Phil Cooke on 17/06/2020 15:00:33:

Stephen - thanks for the comment - are you suggesting you've experienced the torque rod horns rotating due to the small moment about the rod in normal operation?? I can turn mine by hand but they are pretty tight on the threads - certainly wouldnt expect them to move during flight due to aerodynamic load. I did show I could knock them or move them with careless handling - which results in the aileron neutral position altering - but it takes some doing!

Well at the end of the day it is you choice, But for me if their is a simple solution which is just switch the push rods round and fit the ball links onto the servo arms . All it takes is a knock of the control surfaces and for you not to notice waggle the stick yep it`s fine and once the model is in the air you have run out of trim on your Tx and find yourself fighting to keep the model where you want it.

Yes i have knocked my models getting them in and out of the car , So if it can happen to me .

Steve

John Donohoe18/06/2020 19:53:26
10 forum posts
1 photos

Hi Phil, I am using canopy glue for fixing the cockpit canopy , does the glue stick to painted serf aces or has it to be bare wood. Thanks John

Phil Cooke19/06/2020 07:52:33
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2596 forum posts
1824 photos

If its the pukka canopy glue it really does stick to anything, it dries clear into a stiff rubbery like compound. Just be mindful if you're gluing to any other surface finish (film or paint) the resultant canopy bond is only as good as that between the model and your surface finish.

If the canopy is well trimmed and there is plenty of contact around the perimeter edge you will be fine, aim to use a good bead of the glue and wipe off any excess on the outside with a damp cloth. Leaving the bead on the inside is ideal so long as it sits under the canopy framework area.

Flyer19/06/2020 08:35:30
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617 forum posts
108 photos

Just noticed the use of a plumb bob on fixing the fin Phil; simply yet effective way to get the correct angle. I will certainly adapt that idea. We learn something new everyday.

Cheers

Ade

John Donohoe21/06/2020 00:10:13
10 forum posts
1 photos

Hi Chris , I am using hitch servos for the wing. They are mg 85 mg . Are the servo throws on the wing 20 mm up and 8 mm down . I am struggling to get 20 mm with the small servo arms and am using a taranis radio. I have the ball link on the bottom hole on the torque rod and the outside hole on the servo arm . I have put an extension on the servo arm and I can get about 17 mm , but I would sooner have more and reduce in the transmitter end. Any ideas. Your servo arms don't look like they are long . Have you measured how much you are getting. Thanks john

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