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Hangar 9 Ultra Stik 10cc

A handy flyer for practice and first experience with a petrol engine.

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Colin Leighfield09/10/2019 17:58:04
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Thank you Cymaz and John, much appreciated. The CDI box is buried up front under the fuel tank and is about 9” away from the rx, can’t get it much further than that. The tuned pipe extension is connected to the silencer with a flexible extension, although the tuned pipe itself is attached to two steel brackets under the fuselage with two jubilee clips. The only concern I had was in finding space for the CDI box and squeezing it into the space below the tank. I had hoped to “float” it inside foam but all I could do was apply a thin layer of foam plastic about 3mm thick top and bottom, itnis a tight fit and I wondered if there could be a vibration issue there. Can’t think of anywhere else to put it though.

Colin Leighfield09/10/2019 18:01:16
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Sorry Cymaz, I forgot to say it’s on 2.4. Where do I obtain ferrite rings?

Bob Cotsford09/10/2019 18:08:44
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First of all Colin, check the HT lead for breaks in the braid or a poor connection to the plug cap and that the plug cap is actually on tight. Could the plug have had a knock? Might be worth just trying a new plug anyway, they have been known to cause interference when they go bad. Can you get another ignition unit to try?

None of the petrol engines that I had caused interference unless something was broken, both times it was a loose plug cap. Are you using a separate battery for the ignition?

john stones 109/10/2019 18:49:35
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10577 forum posts
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Sounds a good distance away, you got any extension leads in there ? worth checking and swapping those.

Colin Leighfield09/10/2019 20:23:13
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5952 forum posts
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Hi Bob. The engine is all new and the braided lead looks perfect, the plug cap also seems to be on ok, it’s a very tight fit. When I was having trouble starting the engine initially I bought and fitted a new plug, so it should be ok but I could always put the original back in for comparison. I don’t have a spare CDI unit, but it came with the engine and is also new. The ignition is powered by a separate 4.8V battery.

Cymaz, thanks again. There are extension leads in there.

Clearly chaps I need to have a systematic look all the way through, that’s the next step.

Bruce Collinson10/10/2019 13:46:58
391 forum posts

You've given a very accurate description of what happened to one of mine; servos going absolutely haywire.

The cap isn't on all the way.

My second, a DLE 20, needed careful application of a plastic speedclamp to get the cap to snap onto the plug. Yes sounds brutal, I don't have especially strong hands, worked for me. You mentioned earlier that the cap was a bu**er to get off. Res ipsa loquitur. I assume what happens is that the spark will happily jump the gap with enough welly left to spark the plug but creates all sorts of interference, sending you looking up all the blind alleys for faulty components and duff radio installation.

One of several reasons why my experiments with petrolly engines were abbreviated; noise, temperamental jets on knocked-off Chinese Walbros being the principal ones. DLE out (sold), Saito 125 in.

Of course the others may be right but in a little used engine, my fix is no-cost. best of luck, report back.

BTC

Denis Watkins10/10/2019 13:53:06
3875 forum posts
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BTC yes, spot on

Colin Leighfield10/10/2019 14:23:00
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5952 forum posts
2492 photos

Hi Bruce. There is a fair chance you are right I think, when I get home later I will have another look. When I had the original starting trouble and changed the plug on the off-chance I couldn’t believe how hard it was to get the plug cap off. Afterwards I also couldn’t believe how hard it was to get it back on and I can well believe that it isn’t all the way down even now. I will resist the temptation to bash it with the sledge-hammer and consider a more subtle technique such as the one you chose.

I will report back.

Bob Cotsford10/10/2019 21:48:38
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7963 forum posts
439 photos

The 1/4" twist lock plug cap on my Evolution was deceptive, sometimes I thought that I'd twisted it far enough to lock but once the engine fired the cap rotated back again. It should have a definite detent in the locked position and getting it twisted past the detent took more force than you'd think on such a little plug.

Edited By Bob Cotsford on 10/10/2019 21:48:57

Colin Leighfield10/10/2019 23:02:02
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5952 forum posts
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Hi again Bob. This one is a straight push fit but so stiff you get no sense of location or positive detent. I’m getting to have a go at it tomorrow.

cymaz10/10/2019 23:06:56
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8648 forum posts
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If you take off the retaining ring from the plug cap it makes putting the cap on easier......but it is important to keep the plug on.

Bob Cotsford11/10/2019 12:08:35
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7963 forum posts
439 photos

My NGH engines had push fit caps and I freely admit to fitting them with a mallet on more than one occasion!

Colin Leighfield13/10/2019 08:20:37
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5952 forum posts
2492 photos

I confess that a I put a piece of wood on top of the plug cap and whacked it with “me ommer”. Do or die. I don’t think I’ll get up the field today, it’s chucking it down, I will be away for two weeks after today so that’s everything stuffed.

cymaz13/10/2019 08:30:16
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8648 forum posts
1175 photos

Dont forget to make sure the steel ring that sits on the cap collar is in place. It stops the cap from falling off....though I suspect that might not happen if you hit it ‘ard enough surprise

Colin Leighfield13/10/2019 08:43:02
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5952 forum posts
2492 photos

It’s definitely in place Cymaz. If it dries up a bit later today I could run the motor up in the garden and see if the problem’s solved. Not sure if the neighbours will speak to me afterwards though. I was revving my Norton up around the cul de sac yesterday. Have to have a fix occasionally.

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