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Sabre made in Belgium

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Andy Meade15/03/2020 08:36:35
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2772 forum posts
717 photos

That looks great Dirk! The layer lines can be sanded away on the seat with some coarse grit paper, if required. The pilot looks a great fir for the seat though yes

Chris Barlow15/03/2020 20:33:48
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1904 forum posts
1308 photos

Excellent idea Dirk. I'm sure there'll be plenty of SAR volunteers to pick up the pilot! yes

I did try to release a secret agent parachutist from my Vulcan bomb bay but even though he jumped from quite a distance from the slope face, due to the slope lift he cleared us at quite a good height and made his way off to invade the pier on the other side of the Orme! surprise

dirk tinck15/03/2020 23:22:40
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627 forum posts
860 photos

Thanks Chris ! It's not operational yet but i'm getting there ! I just have to find a way to compensate the loss of weight when canope and seat are ejected.I have an idea but that means ,again,a little weight increase...

Like you said : decisions...

McG 696916/03/2020 17:13:37
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3242 forum posts
1229 photos

... well Dirk,

You're playing with springs, ply and bits of white nylon while I'm suffering here with the Dog...

Well done, young man. yes

There must be a technician hidden somewhere inside you. wink

Cheers

Chris

dirk tinck22/03/2020 23:33:14
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627 forum posts
860 photos

More work on the bang seat :

I made a little reinforcement in aluminium to take away the stress between the ground plate and the sliding plate

20200318_213919.jpg

In it's place it looks like this :Just needs a little rivet to hold on to the sliding plate reinforcement triangle20200318_213900.jpg

The canope base ends just behind the seat ,so there's some room for some furniture

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The hole at the rear is the housing for the spring who blows away the canope once the hook has released it,i hope...At the far end you can see a carbon dowel glued in to keep the canope in the right position.

Under this base is the room for the shute.You can see here (at the far end)the hole that houses the carbon dowel.Left of it is the canope release hook operated by the servo.

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The little round piece on the battery box holds the seat-spring in the right place,under the right angle(oblique)At the bottom you can see the servo -operated pin that holds the seat(now withdrawn)

The last work in the cockpit area is to put in some side panels,left side with a throttle.

x20200322_225850.jpg

Blank on the right side.These will get a decal with some nobs and things...

Please ignore the last pic in this post,could not delete it...

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20200318_213919.jpg

dirk tinck22/03/2020 23:38:11
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627 forum posts
860 photos

Next thing is to glass the fuse after a good sand!

Until then ,keep it safe guy's,so we can all go flying soon !!

Stephen Jones23/03/2020 00:17:31
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2837 forum posts
1616 photos

Be careful of all that dust ............ AhhhChue.

Or you may have to self quarantine.

Steve wink

McG 696923/03/2020 06:56:34
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3242 forum posts
1229 photos

...brilliant piece of technique, Dirk.

When do you plan to have an 'ejection' maiden? smiley

Cheers

Chris

dirk tinck23/03/2020 23:45:39
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627 forum posts
860 photos

Hi Chris,at the first eject test , the seat reached a hight of 1 meter !!(without the parashute )

Today i started to sand the fuse and noticed i forgot the tail lights, so i drilled some holes right trough the balsa tail end block to guide the wires.The leds will be glued in after painting

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Phil Cooke24/03/2020 19:50:08
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2588 forum posts
1824 photos

Great work as always Dirk - your model has so much detail and intricacy throughout - both internally and externally! Really impressive!

dirk tinck24/03/2020 23:54:53
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627 forum posts
860 photos

Thanks Phil , now that we have some time to spend (I wish i hadn't ) i'm glad i can workout some details ! I really love this part of the build.

I know it looks rather complicated but i'll try to post some explanation of the hole system.Today i worked my way around the weight -loss problem with a simple solution:more tomorrow

Stay tuned !

McG 696925/03/2020 12:17:43
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3242 forum posts
1229 photos

I'm looking forward to your Ejection Seat Manual, Dirk. wink

Meanwhile, allow me a question, please > regarding your GF frame, I suppose I can cut the main part of the 'holes' with a diamond disc on a Dremel.

But what should I use best for finishing the 'edges' ? A sanding drum? A cylindrical grinding stone?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Cheers

Chris

dirk tinck25/03/2020 12:44:17
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627 forum posts
860 photos

I use a small drum for the corners and a self made -very small -sanding block for the straight pieces .Good luck !20200309_223158.jpg

McG 696925/03/2020 13:32:48
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3242 forum posts
1229 photos

... thanks, young man... yes

dirk tinck25/03/2020 23:06:17
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627 forum posts
860 photos

Hi all !

After two day's of fuselage sanding,i'm getting there ! For me ,the most dificult part to sand was the fuse former in the back with the balsa exhaust around it so i made a little tool for my dremel.It's just a grinding cilinder with some P60 sandpaper zapped to it at the top .It does an amazing job at the right speed !!

This also counts for the inside of the nose,the former is very hard to sand without touching the soft balsa !

20200325_222922.jpg

20200325_222825.jpg

The rest of the fuse was sanded with P220 sandpaper on a semi-flexi plastic card.This way you sand away the ''corners'' between the planking strips.It's basically the same as the sanding tools made by Chris but the plasic card follows the curves of the fuse.

In the first photo you can see a snake glued in ,that's part of the system for the weight compesation in the event of an ejection. As promissed,more on this later.wink

Phil Cooke26/03/2020 07:45:42
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2588 forum posts
1824 photos

'weight compensation in the event of an ejection' sounds very intriguing! I look forward to the full rundown!

Yes there is some tricky shaping at both the intake and exhaust area on this one. Secretly, you all owe me a pint as the first kit proposal didn't come with the 3 ply balsa nose parts - I thought they were complex, characteristic shapes, difficult to form at home by hand - and it was I who bent Martins' arm to have those 3 balsa parts precut as part of the kit. Even with them laser cut they take some careful shaping!

Your 'I Beam' section at the back above the exhaust looks good, is that all carved from balsa or do you have a thin ply top skin? I cant quite work it out?

dirk tinck26/03/2020 10:10:35
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627 forum posts
860 photos

It's all balsa Phil but to protect the corners, i added a small piece of ply at the end

dirk tinck26/03/2020 12:04:31
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627 forum posts
860 photos

20200326_123457.jpg

20200326_123512.jpg

hope this helps ??

dirk tinck26/03/2020 23:54:42
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627 forum posts
860 photos

Got the tail end and front end sanded with the new dremel tool witch works very well !

20200326_224609.jpg

Last thing to do before glassing the fuse is to give the area around the speed brakes some extra sanding to compensate the brakes not being glassed.If i don't do this the brakes would lie too deep in the fuse.

I gave the area around the brakes a layer of sanding guide to be sure i don't miss a part. When this guide is sanded away it should be ok,i guess...

x20200326_232159.jpg

While i was working on the brakes i got the idea it shouldn't be too hard to make some dummy hydraulic pistons. All i need is some little ball links to hook them up and were good to go !

First i'll glass this baby wink

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dirk tinck28/03/2020 00:25:31
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627 forum posts
860 photos

PSSA sabre Mass Build 2020 EJECT MANUAL

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Sold without warranty !!embarrassed

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