By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by CML

Mark’s Peggy Sue 2 Build

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Peter Miller15/10/2019 11:04:53
avatar
10253 forum posts
1225 photos
10 articles

For my wing ribs I just cut one in 1/16" ply with all holes etc. I put a 1/4" strip along it as a grip and two map pins just protruding through the ply.

Then it is a simple case of Zip Zip round the template, brass tube through the hole and you have a perfect wing rib. repeat for the required number of rib.

Mark Elen15/10/2019 11:17:14
401 forum posts
738 photos
Posted by Peter Miller on 15/10/2019 11:00:44:

Yes, the sheet should go over the leading edge and then the leading edge cap covers all of it.

Same with the tip,the sheet tip goes to the outline and just strips of thin sheet round the edge.

PM me with your email address and I will send you PDFs of the original drawing.

The way I mark the bolt holes is this.

1) I fit the Tee nuts into the ply plate when I make the plate.

2) I have short lengths of wing bolt sharpened to a point (A pencil sharpener works well) These are screwed into the Tee nuts so they just protrude a bit.

3) I line the wing up vary carefully and then press down. This makes and indentation in the wing. Drill through and open up carefully..

Hi Peter,

Thanks for your kind offer, PM Sent.

That was the way that I did the holes on the Ballerina wing. I have followed the 'words and music' in the magazine. If I remember correctly (and its a big if) it says not to drill the holes in the plates and to use the wing to mark out their position once the wing is complete?

Cheers

Mark

Peter Miller15/10/2019 12:11:27
avatar
10253 forum posts
1225 photos
10 articles

,Really!?

The reason I say that is that I fix the T nuts in the plate before installing it in the fuselage. I do this because I drill the plate for The T nut. Drive the T nut in until the prongs come through the ply and then hammer them over. My T nuts NEVER come out!!

Then because they are already permanently installed I HAVE to mark them in the wing which is never built until the fuselage is nearly complete.

Plan sent

Mark Elen15/10/2019 12:19:31
401 forum posts
738 photos

Hi Peter,

Many thanks for the plan. I did think it was not your normal way of doing things. Never mind, I'm sure it will work out. I will get the mag out again tonight and have a read through.

Regards

Mark

Mark Elen15/10/2019 14:06:25
401 forum posts
738 photos

Right, for a bit, I thought I was going mad. It does indeed say not to drill the ply wing hold down plates:

ef2fea75-2ecc-4125-9c14-33dd95b33654.jpeg

It looks like you have been ‘edited’ Peter😂

Cheers

Mark

Peter Miller15/10/2019 15:10:36
avatar
10253 forum posts
1225 photos
10 articles

No, You are right. I had forgotten that I did it that way on Peggy Sue 2.

I use the method that I described fior all my low wing models. For some reason I did it that way on Peggy Sue. Possibly for two reasons, A) the 1/4" ply would match the fuselage sides for more gluing area and B) using 4 blind nuts would have added complications..

I get confused easily in my old age!!!sad

Also with so many plans I can forget if I did something different.

I sometimes see a picture of a model and think "That is a pretty little model, I like that!

Then I realise that it is one of mine from years ago. DUH!!!

Mark Elen15/10/2019 16:35:18
401 forum posts
738 photos

Hi Peter,

Many thanks for your comments and for the plan earlier.

Im well on with the ribs now. One of the reasons I like the ‘sandwich’ method, is that the ribs end up very close to exactly the same.

Before stacking them together, I go around the edges of the ply and ‘paint’ them with a permanent marker pen:

37f9d247-6878-45b5-a89e-3964bd917e3e.jpeg

This is then used later as a ‘gauge’ to show where needs sanding some more, and where it is finished.

Then stacked together and sanded to final shape:

c6ff23c0-04eb-47e6-84e7-18070e4eede8.jpeg

0f6dab80-a8df-4c3a-b754-d07e0db43c73.jpeg

1b1ef3cb-7990-4b2c-9a31-159b24c4a9a3.jpeg

Now, after all that work comes the scary bit... cutting the slots.😬

Cheers

Mark

Mark Elen18/10/2019 22:23:45
401 forum posts
738 photos

Not got much done in the last couple of days. Been busy at work. I have managed to get the slots cut for the spars though. Then split them down, got the slots added to the templates for the 5 inner ribs, then back together and slots cut for the front ply plate and the additional wing brace:

2745b99d-083f-4f6d-ab0b-6c7a5e612d9b.jpeg

4227b69c-d69b-4f4a-8bd6-72e968273b58.jpeg

1f46381c-334e-425a-a28e-9a88fac1fc76.jpeg

68edfdb9-8cde-45d5-b786-b5d40fdcc52e.jpeg

Still a bit to do, I need to cut out R5 and R6, and put the holes in for the servo leads, but the ribs are nearly done

Cheers

Mark

Peter Miller19/10/2019 08:22:17
avatar
10253 forum posts
1225 photos
10 articles

I am going to have to cut out the ribs for a tapered wing. No quick way of doing that.

Mark Elen19/10/2019 12:29:20
401 forum posts
738 photos

Hi Peter,

Hope you are well. I haven’t found an easy way of doing that. I do wonder if a sandwich with 1” blocks of foam between each rib would work, then pattern at each end. Not an easy job.
A few photos from this morning:

abc28365-78c9-4e04-8a3d-01a4037f69a3.jpeg

6ed8b5a2-7a77-44f5-9524-aeec976780cd.jpeg

Cheers

Mark

Peter Miller19/10/2019 12:38:27
avatar
10253 forum posts
1225 photos
10 articles

The best way of doing it is to print out each rib and mount it on balsa sheet with 3M Spraymount and then cut it out.

Luckily I can do that with my Compufoil program which also allows me to design the whole wing.

Your ribs look really perfect.

McG 696919/10/2019 14:11:00
avatar
2625 forum posts
996 photos

... superb job as usual, Mark

... and a pleasure to follow your thread. yes

Cheers

Chris

Mark Elen20/10/2019 15:45:44
401 forum posts
738 photos

Thanks Gents for your kind comments.

No real building done today, but I have got my set of cutters finished off. I also made up a ‘ferrule’ that I am planning on using to cut the top wing sheet for the wing bolts. It slides within the 9mm cutter and takes the 5mm cutter through it. The 5mm will then be used as a guide to ‘counterbore’ 9mm down to the ply plate:

9659988c-aa3b-4236-8126-12ce91f2740e.jpeg

a990ac2c-3714-448a-a9f5-549b90756dfb.jpeg

41fcb362-8dac-4c16-890a-3fc5c50f3a49.jpeg

Cheers

Mark

Edited By Mark Elen on 20/10/2019 15:48:02

Peter Miller20/10/2019 18:32:54
avatar
10253 forum posts
1225 photos
10 articles
Posted by McG 6969 on 19/10/2019 14:11:00:

... superb job as usual, Mark

... and a pleasure to follow your thread. yes

Cheers

Chris

Hi Chris

I have just finished drawing up an very stand off scale Stampe Monitor. 52" span for electric power.

McG 696921/10/2019 08:42:33
avatar
2625 forum posts
996 photos

Hi Peter,

So you finally came to it... wink

I'm looking forward to seeing the drawing but I can only hope the build of it will not be 'to soon' as I have planned a PSSA Sabre F-86 for the upcoming winter months. blush

Do you plan to build it as the original SR7 or as the - slightly modified - Farmann Monitor?

Anyhow, looking forward to it. smiley

Cheers

Chris

McG 696921/10/2019 09:02:16
avatar
2625 forum posts
996 photos

... here are pics of both of them...

Cheers

Chris

Peter Miller21/10/2019 09:04:30
avatar
10253 forum posts
1225 photos
10 articles

Hi Chris.

Because I have not included the small curved fairing at the front of the fin it will be the SR7 but as I said, it is "stand way,way off scale"

This week I will have the prints and PDFs done of my drawing and will email them to you. PM me with your email address

Edited By Peter Miller on 21/10/2019 09:05:38

Peter Miller21/10/2019 09:09:08
avatar
10253 forum posts
1225 photos
10 articles

NOw that gets confusing. The curved fairing is now on the model of the Belgian one. andthe tailplane shape is acording to one 3-view while the tailplane shape is as per the french one but the 3 view of that has the curved fairing.

Basically I shall build as drawn and the nit pickers can decide what they want to with it.

McG 696921/10/2019 13:16:34
avatar
2625 forum posts
996 photos

Hi again Peter,

I can imagine your confusion there, but I can only confirm you that the 'Belgian' SR7 - OO-SRZ - is wearing that 'curved fairing' in front of the fin.

sr7_brussels01.jpg

sr7_ebkt.jpg

With his version, Farman decided to leave it off and to modify/enlarge slightly the depth of its fin together with the increased surface of the rudder balance part. No idea why as I can't find any 'answers' to that.

Did you know that only three SR7 were build by Stampe-Renard. The OO-SRZ, for presentation to the Belgian Air Force to replace the SV-4, the 'French' one, built in Antwerp, transported to Farman by truck and finished/modified by them to become their Farman 500 Monitor (F-WFOF) to be presented to the Armée de l"Air for evaluation... and a third one that 'vanished' as no living soul has been able to find or locate it...

To Mark > deep apologies to squat your great build log. blush

PM sent Peter & cheers

Chris

Peter Miller21/10/2019 14:26:13
avatar
10253 forum posts
1225 photos
10 articles

My Fault,I started it

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find RCM&E! 

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Wings & Wheels 2019
electricwingman 2017
Pepe Aircraft
Slec
CML
Gliders Distribution
Cambridge Gliding Club
Advertise With Us
Sarik
Latest "For Sale" Ads
Do you use a throttle kill switch?
Q: This refers to electric-powered models but do you use a throttle kill switch?

 Yes
 No
 Sometimes
 Rarely

Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us